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Planting wild roses and strawberries in gardens near fruit orchards for biological control of pest leafrollers

 

 

Planting Rose/Strawberry Gardens

 

PLACEMENT:
Gardens can fit any orchard!  First you must critically look over your blocks and find where it is handy to get water to a planting area just outside the orchard.  Perhaps there is a drainage spot that is often wet during the growing season, a ditch bank or the sides of ponds are all possibilities.  Keep in mind that multi-floral roses are invasive wherever there is available water.  A location free of spray drift is critical…so maybe 50 ft away from the orchard edge.  Do not put your garden in an orchard row or other spot where the plants will get sprayed!

 

PREPARATION

Clear an area of at least 10 by 40 ft and lay down black weed cloth, or the like, to cover emerging weeds and leave a space on the sides for a mower to pass (solves a lot of future weed issues).  Bring water to the site.  Most use simple black tubing spliced into the irrigation lines. Use good, low clogging sprinklers/drippers/bubblers and keep the soil around plants damp especially through the first year.  If there is not vigorous growth in year or 2, you are probably not giving the planting enough water.

The black tubing can be elevated on wires, using the sprinklers hanging down.  You may find this a handy way to keep track of irrigation.

 

PLANTING

Cut openings in the cover to plant the roses 2-3 feet apart. Roses (Rosa woodsii, known as the Pear Hip or Wood’s Rose and Rosa nutkana, known as the Nootka Rose) can be purchased from nurseries specializing in habitat restoration and stabilization (Check ‘Google’ on the internet.).  They can also be dug from wild patches in approved locations.  It is best to dig these plants early in the spring before bud break. 

 

MAINTAINANCE

Roses are not the friendliest plants; you may want to mow them at some point.  The height of the irrigation system will then be important if you are using a mower. Prune them to the ground in January or February.  In a matter of a couple of years, with plenty of water and fertilizer, the roses will aggressively keep weeds out on their own.  A couple of mowings around the perimeter is all that will be needed.

 

WHAT ABOUT STRAWBERRIES?

Our height studies have shown that more Strawberry Leafroller larvae (Ancylis) over winter on the strawberries than roses. The Ancylis larvae on the rose is fairly decimated by the Colpoclypeus wasp.  This is good, as the wasps will be available for OBLR and Pandemis come spring in your orchard.  On balance, we think it best to plant your strawberries away from the roses---separated by some dry ground.  This prevents the roses from overrunning and shading out the strawberries and to be close enough to supply lots of Strawberry Leaf Roller for the roses each season.  We would suggest planting the commercial variety ‘Quinault’ in a wet circle just out of reach of the rose patch!  You would also be well served by planting the wild, blue-green leaved, species found below the pines in our Northwest woods, Fragaria virginiana var. platypetala.  Both plants are very tough and heat resistant. Enjoy the dividends: juicy strawberries!

 

FINDING ANCYLIS TO INFEST YOUR GARDEN

This leafroller can be seen in the wild roses along many of the north facing ridges of the Upper Yakima Valley, along ditch banks, and sub-irrigated spots.  You can also find it on roadside roses near Ellensburg and on the west-facing hillside below the WSU TFREC Columbia View Farm.  In early to mid-June search for the leafroller:  the leaves of infested roses will be folded in half,  taco-like, and when you open the fold you will see the yellow larva with a tan head.  When a spot is found, cut a bag of 6 inch terminals from the bushes.  When home, tuck the infested terminals into your plants.  As the cut terminals die,  the leafrollers will move onto your plants.