QUESTION:
I had some insect problems in my garden last
year and want to try to avoid that problem next year, but I don't want
to use any harmful insecticides. Any suggestions? From Burt
in Albany, New York
ANSWER:
One of the best ways to control harmful insects
is to attract beneficial insects into your garden, which in turn, will
also help with plant pollination. By selecting flowers and plants
they are especially fond of, you will be able to lure more beneficial
insects
into your garden. We have found our "Beneficial
Insect Mix", which contains flowers and herbs that attract
lacewings,
lady bugs, syrphid flies, tachinid flies, chalcid wasps, braconid
wasps,
ichneumonid wasps and trichogramma wasps (these wasps do not sting, so
they will not harm humans or pets) to work especially well in
attracting
helpful insects. If plant pollination has been a problem for you,
we suggest trying our "Hummingbird / Butterfly
Mix"
and/or the "Honey Bee Mix", which can be
planted
near your garden. Dill, if left to go to seed, can be used in the
orchards to attract parasites that control codling moths and tent
caterpillars.
You can also purchase lures that attract
lady
bugs and lacewings to your garden. Try this suggestion next year
and you will have fewer problems with harmful insects.
Question: When is the best
time
to add manure to my garden?
From Bob L. in Hillsdale,
Michigan.
Answer:
Manure should be added to the
garden once a year to improve the soil structure and to increase the
water
and food capacity of the soil. In most areas of the
country,
it is best to add the manure in the fall or early winter, so it
can
start to decompose in the soil during the winter months when the garden
is "at rest". In areas of the country where you can garden
all year round, try resting one section of your garden at a time and
adding
manure during this rest period. Manure that has been
composted
for an entire season can be added to the garden in the spring,
just
before working the soil. (Horse manure, being high in
nitrogen,
must
be composted for a season before adding to the garden, otherwise you
might
"burn" the roots of young plants.) Common manures to add to the
garden
are: cow, horse, rabbit and chicken. DO NOT add dog or cat manure
to the garden, as household pets can transfer many disease
organisms
to humans through their manure.
Question: Every
spring,
the first rows of beans that I plant come up sparsely. The second
and third plantings come up fine. Am I planting too early?
From Gene in Redwood Falls,
Minnesota.
.
Answer: Yes, it sounds
as if you are trying to rush the gardening season. Many people,
after
being cooped-up all winter, are anxious to get things started in the
garden.
In doing so, they are often disappointed in the results. For next
year, remember that beans need a warm soil temperature in order to
germinate
properly. They should not be planted until two weeks after the
last
spring frost. If the soil has not warmed sufficiently, the seeds
will rot in the ground before they germinate. Covering the area
earlier
in the season with black plastic will help warm the soil
underneath.
An old rule of thumb is: Do not sow the seeds of beans, cucumbers,
squash
or melons until the apple trees have dropped their blossoms.
Question: How
important
is soil temperature when it comes to planting my seeds in the spring?
From Mandy in Glenville, West
Virginia.
.
Answer: This is probably
the most important factor in planting, and the main reason for
germination
failure in spring planting. While cool weather crops such as
chard,
lettuce, peas etc. can germinate when the soil temperature is only 40
degrees
F, warm weather plants such as beans, squash, melons, cucumbers, etc.
need
a soil temperature near 70 degrees to germinate properly. Even
tomato
and pepper plants (which need to be started inside) benefit from an
artificial
heat source for the soil to achieve proper seed
germination.
Another factor to consider is the various beneficial microorganisms in
the soil. Most do not become active until the soil temperature
has
reached 45 degrees F., and do not reach the height of their
activity
until the soil temperature reaches into the 70's. Remember,
just because you experience a few warm days in the spring does not mean
that it's time to plant all the vegetable varieties in your
garden.
Check the soil temperature first!
Question: Every year
I
plant my seedlings (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and broccoli) in the
garden
about the last week of May. They all do very well, except the
broccoli
starts to flower before it forms a nice head. What am I doing
wrong?
From Ed in Vineland, New
Jersey.
.
Answer: No matter what
area of the country you live in, you must remember that broccoli (along
with cabbage, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and kohlrabi) is a cool
weather
crop, while tomatoes, eggplants and peppers are warm weather
crops.
Broccoli needs to mature when the weather is cool. The young
seedlings
can withstand cooler temperatures than tomatoes, peppers or eggplant,
so
try transplanting your broccoli seedlings 4 to 5 weeks before you
transplant
the tomato seedlings. This way, the broccoli will mature in the
cooler
spring temperatures and not go to seed as quickly. Broccoli can
also
be planted as a fall crop, where it often produces larger heads than
the
ones planted in the spring. The cool fall temperatures are ideal
for growing a bumper crop of broccoli. Try a fall crop and you'll
have plenty of fresh broccoli for immediate use and for freezing.
See our SPRING
PLANTING SCHEDULE and FALL PLANTING
SCHEDULE
for when to plant broccoli in your area.
Question: I have
tried
growing onions in the past, but the bulbs always get soft and
eventually
rot in storage. What am I doing wrong?
From
Darrell in Warren, Arkansas.
.
Answer: In late summer
or early fall, the onion tops will begin to turn yellow. At this
time, push the tops over with the back of a rake. This will
force the bulbs into their final maturing stage. About three
weeks
later, the tops will be brown and ready to harvest. Dig up the
bulbs,
being careful not to damage them. Lay the onions on black and
white
newspaper in a dry, shaded spot for 10 days. They are now ready
for
storage. Onions should be stored in a cool, dry location, with
the
ideal temperature being 35 to 45 degrees F. Make sure there
is good air circulation around the bulbs. You can trim the tops
and
hang your onions in a mesh bag, or try our favorite method - leave the
tops on and braid the onions for hanging!
Question: I want to grow pyrethrum in my garden this year. How does this plant work in repelling insects, and can I make an insecticide for my crops out of it? From Gayle in Warrenton, Missouri.
Answer: Pyrethrum (Chrysanthemum
coccineum) can be planted amongst your vegetable crops to help
repel
harmful insects. The flowers bloom in late June or July,
and
it is these flower heads that is used to make an insecticide
powder.
This insecticide is regarded as the least toxic to people and
animals.
Once the flowers start to dry on the plant, remove and hang upside down
in a dry area. After the flowers have completely dried, they must
be ground into a fine powder. This powder can be used as an
insecticide. It kills soft bodied insects by rapidly paralyzing
them
(it must be applied directly to the insects), but has little residual
effect.
Use only as a last resort, as pyrethrum kills some beneficial insects
as
well.
The information on this page is for reference
and education. Be aware that any plant substance used
externally
may cause an allergic reaction in some people. We will not be
responsible
for any problems that arise from using pyrethrum.
Question: It seems like every year I have a terrible aphid problem in my garden. What kind of spray do you recommend to control them? From Lucy in Richmond, Virginia.
Answer: There are many sprays you can use to control aphids in the garden. Listed below are a few to consider.
Question: The flowers in my flower bed all seem to be stunned. The plants came up, started to grow, and then stopped. Some of the leaves on the zinnias have a purplish color that I never noticed before. I don't see any signs of insect damage. Can you help me? From Maria M. in Enfield, Connecticut.
Answer: Your problem could be in the soil. From what you describe, your plants might be suffering from a phosphorus deficiency. This nutrient is important for good plant growth. Two things are necessary for this nutrient to be released from the soil to your plants. First, phosphorus must already be present in the soil (have your soil tested to determine this). If it is not present, it can easily be added from one of these natural sources: ground phosphate rock, dried blood, bone meal, poultry manure, cottonseed meal or wood ashes. Many of these should be available locally at nurseries or garden centers. Two, organic matter must also be present in your soil. As the organic matter decomposes, it helps release the phosphorus in the soil for plant use. Compost is an easily obtained source of organic matter and should be added to your soil frequently.
Question: Should I cut the suckers on my tomato plants off or leave them on? I can't get the same answer from any of the gardeners in my neighborhood. From Kathy T. in Big Stone Gap, Virginia.
Answer: This is a loaded question that is sure to start arguments between any group of gardeners. Let us try to give you the pros and cons of pruning tomatoes, and then you can decide what is best for you. Generally, if you are going to stake your tomato plants, you should let the first sucker develop and prune off the rest. This will leave you with two main shoots to tie on the stakes. With this method, you can plant your tomatoes closer together, getting more plants in a smaller amount of space (great if you want to try many different varieties). The downside to this method is you will have less foliage on the plants and it may leave your tomatoes susceptible to sun scald. Also, this method requires a lot of work. If you are going to grow your tomatoes in cages, you do not have to prune your tomatoes as heavily or even at all. With this method, you simply keep your tomato plants inside their cage and let the suckers develop. You will get more tomatoes per plant, there will be better foliage cover and there is a lot less work involved. The downside to this method is that the tomatoes have to be planted further apart, they will mature a little later than the staked and pruned tomatoes, and they may be slightly smaller in size. Our suggestion would be to try both methods and then decide which way works better for you.
Question: I planted lettuce
seeds
in my garden the second week of July and have had very poor
germination.
Since I planted quite a few different varieties and used the remainder
of seeds that germinated so well in the spring, I don't know what went
wrong. Any ideas?
From Mary Lou in Eufaula,
Alabama.
Answer: Lettuce seed does not germinate well in hot weather. If you are planning a second or third crop of lettuce and the weather is in the 80's or higher, you should start the plants inside. Start your seeds in a good potting mix and place the container in a cooler area of the house. Once the seeds have germinated, place the containers in a partially shaded area outside. After the plants have grown their second or third set of leaves, harden off your seedlings and transplant them into the garden.
Question: My tomatoes have
black
patches on the leaves, and a few of these patches also have white
"fuzz"
on them. Some of the tomatoes have dark colored spots. The
plants were doing just great, with this happening very quickly.
What's
the problem?
From Frank V. in Gibsonia,
Pennsylvania.
Answer: From what you describe, your tomato plants have late blight, a fungal disease that attacks the plants after they have blossomed. This has been a common problem in many parts of the country this year, resulting from plenty of rain with below average temperatures. It usually does not become a problem unless the weather is just right for its development. Moist soil, along with nighttime temperatures of 40 to 60 degrees F and daytime temperatures in the 70 to 80 degree F temperature range, help promote the development of this disease. Spray the plants with a copper based fungicide, reading the directions carefully, every 7 to 10 days or until the disease is under control. After this season, destroy the infected plants (do not place in your compost pile). Late blight can overwinter in garden debris, so be thorough in your fall clean-up to prevent a reoccurrence next season.
Question: My pumpkins are ready to harvest and I plan on using a few of them to make jack-o-lanterns for Halloween. My question is: How long will the rest of my pumpkins keep and what is the best way to store them? From Billy B. in Bedford, Indiana.
Answer: In the fall
before
the first frost, check your pumpkins to find out which ones are ready
for
harvest. When your thumb nail doesn't easily pierce the skin of
the
pumpkin, it is ready to be harvested. Cut them from the vine,
leaving
about 3 to 6 inches of vine on the pumpkin. Cure the pumpkin by
placing
them in a sunny, dry spot for 7 to 10 days, making sure to cover them
at
night if frost threatens. This curing process will harden
the
skin even more. Store the pumpkins indoors in a cool area
(about
50 degrees F. is best). Check the pumpkins frequently during
storage.
If you notice a soft spot on any of the pumpkins, use
immediately.
If mold should appear on the pumpkins, wipe it off with a cloth and a
little
vegetable oil. If carefully stored, pumpkins can last until
the following spring.
Now back to the garden!
The pumpkins that were not quite ready to harvest can still be used to
make pies or other taste treats! The pumpkins that have matured
past
the green stage, but didn't have a hard enough skin for winter storage,
can be used for this purpose.
Question: I have a real problem with ladybugs this fall. Many are in the house, with hundreds more trying to get in. Help! From Lucy T. in Flemington, New Jersey.
Answer: The ladybug
is
one of the most recognized beneficial insect in the garden. Both
the adult beetles and larvae are very important in having a pest free
garden.
By no means should these helpful insects be destroyed.
When the weather starts to get
cooler, ladybugs start looking for a place to hibernate through
the
winter. Your house, being warmer than the outside, makes an
excellent
place. Ladybugs can crawl through the smallest cracks and holes,
so this is where you should concentrate your efforts in eliminating
them
from your home. Small cracks in the foundation of the house
can easily be filled with caulk, as can small openings around window
frames
and doors. Next check the weather stripping on your windows and
doors.
Replace any that are missing or damaged. Other openings you
should
check are around the outside dryer vent, the cable, phone, and electric
lines entering the house, crawl space vents, etc. By
sealing
these tiny entrances, you'll not only stop the ladybugs from entering
your
house, you'll also cut down on heat loss during the winter months
(saving
money on your heating bill). This alone will pay for the cost of
the project!
Question: On seed packages and in seed catalogs, I always see the number of days mentioned. What exactly does this number represent? From Ellen D. in Gallup, Arizona.
Answer: The number of
days
that appears on the seed envelope is the average number of days to
harvest
for that particular variety. Due to seasonal weather patterns and
other factors, this is not an exact date, but can be used as a
reference
when selecting varieties for your area. For example: if variety
#1
has a "days to harvest" of 45 days and variety #2 has a "days to
harvest"
of 65 days, then it can be assumed that the first variety will mature
about
3 weeks before the second variety. While neither may mature at
the
exact days to harvest time listed, they should mature 3 weeks apart if
planted in the same location. This "days to harvest" can
then
help you plan your garden so you can harvest fresh produce all season
long.
Note: On vegetables that
need to be started indoors and transplanted into the garden, (broccoli,
cabbage, cauliflower, eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, etc.) the "days to
harvest"
is calculated from the transplanting date into the garden to the days
the
variety should mature.
Question: Last year, many of my flowers started off doing very well. About half way through the season, though, they started wilting and the leaves turned yellow, finally turning a sickly brown color. We had plenty of rain this year, so I don't think they needed water. What could have caused this to happen? From Pat J. in Carbondale, Pennsylvania.
Answer: From what you describe, it could be one of three different problems:
SOLARIZING SOIL
The following should be
done
during the hottest days of summer.
Question: Every year I have a problem with my spinach. I love fresh spinach in my salads, but I'm about to give up growing my own. It seems that every time the leaves are almost the right size to pick, they get brown streaks and blotches on them. I've tried growing the spinach in different areas of the garden, but that doesn't seem to help. Is something wrong with my soil? From Ann B. in Middlebury, Vermont.
Answer: The problem you describe has nothing to do with any soil deficiency or disease. The damage has been caused by an insect called a leafminer. These insects emerge from the soil in the spring, fly off and lay their eggs on the leaves of the spinach. The eggs hatch and the larvae tunnel into the leaves, causing the brown marks you described. The best way to prevent leafminer damage is to use a floating row cover on your crop. Plant the spinach in the spring and place the row cover loosely over the area, making sure to secure the ends of the row cover with fabric pegs or soil. Water as you normally would, and when the plants are about an inch tall, remove the row cover to thin them out. Immediately replace the row cover, making sure it is loose enough for the plants to reach full size underneath it. To harvest the spinach, simply lift up part of the cover, pick as much spinach as you need, and replace the cover. By using this method, you prevent the adult leafminers from laying their eggs on the spinach leaves. You will now have a beautiful crop of spinach, with no damage from these pesky little insects!
Question: Last year I had a
wonderful
corn crop growing and everything seemed to be going well. When I
harvested the ears and pulled back the husks, the kernels were eaten at
the top and there were ugly worms inside. What can I do to stop
this
from happening again?
From Lester in West Liberty, Kentucky.
Answer: Sounds as if you had a problem with the Corn Earworm. Luckily, this insect can be easily controlled. Once the corn is about knee high, start spraying it with a combination of light horticultural oil spray and BT (Bacillus Thuringiensis). Both of these items should be available at your local garden center. Spray once every two weeks. Once the silks have wilted and begun to turn brown, apply mineral oil to the area where the silk enters the ear of corn. Use about half a medicine dropper for each ear of corn. DO NOT apply this too early in the season, as it can interfere with the pollination process.
Question: My tomato seedlings always get too tall and look weak. Why don't they look nice and compact like the ones I see at the local nursery? From Fred D. in Meeker, Colorado.
Answer: The two biggest reasons for this problem are over fertilization and insufficient light.
Answer: From what you describe, you may have a Phosphorus deficiency in your soil. Phosphorus deficiencies usually occur in acidic soil, so make sure to have your soil tested to see if this is the problem. The soil pH for peppers should be between 6.0 and 6.5. After you've made sure that your soil pH is correct, feed your peppers with an organic fertilizer that is high in Phosphorus, such as Budswell or The Real Poop. In the fall, add rock phosphate or wood ashes to the soil to help correct this problem for next year's crop.
Question:
I've always wanted to try
growing
a hummingbird garden. What types of flowers and herbs are
they
attracted to? From Ginger C. in Pittsburgh,
Pennsylvania.
Answer:
Most people believe that
hummingbirds
are only attracted to red flowers. While they do have a
preference
to the color red, the Ruby-throated and other varieties of hummingbirds
will feed from flowers that are pink, orange, purple, yellow and even
white.
Tubular shaped flowers are the type most preferred in a hummingbird
garden.
Make sure to choose varieties that have overlapping periods of bloom,
so
there will always be flowers in the garden for the hummingbirds to feed
from. Also try to choose those that are native to your
region.
Good choices might include: Bee Balm, Bellflower, Butterfly Weed,
Carnation,
Catnip, Columbine, Delphinium, Evening Primrose, Four O'Clock,
Foxglove,
Globe Thistle, Hollyhock, Lupine, Lychnis, Morning Glory,
Nasturtium,
Nicotiana, Pinks, Poppy, Sage, Snapdragon, Wild Bergamot,and
Zinnia.
Watering your flowers with a fine spray (especially in the morning and
evening hours) will also help attract hummingbirds. They drink
and
bathe from the small water droplets left on the flower's leaves.
Question:
Being a novice gardener, I
would
like to know "What exactly is an heirloom variety"? From Dan T.
in
Willmar, Minnesota.
Answer:
Sorry to say, but there is no
"exact" definition for this term. In fact, there have been entire
books dedicated to this subject and still there is no agreement between
gardeners as to what constitutes an heirloom and what does not.
First, lets try to cover what
everyone agrees on. Heirlooms are always open-pollinated
varieties.
This means that if the seeds produced from the plant are properly
saved,
they will produce the same variety year after year. This
cannot
be done with hybrids, which are a cross between two separate varieties,
as the seed produced from those plants will either be sterile, or start
to revert back to the parent plants.
The next part of the
definition
starts to get a little fuzzy. Most gardeners agree that heirloom
varieties should be at least 50 years old. But can a
variety
that is 48 or 49 years old be eliminated from this group, but then be
eligible
1 or 2 years later? And what about an improved variety of an old
favorite? We'll let the so called "experts" argue about
this
one!
Lastly, many gardeners think
there should be some history behind the variety, perhaps a story on a
variety's
introduction, some ethnic background or a tie to a certain time in
history.
Part of the joy of growing heirlooms is discovering these stories
behind
the seeds. But in some cases, the early history of some seeds is
not known. Should these varieties be eliminated from the
group?
Many heirloom gardeners will only grow varieties introduced outside the
seed trade. What about the older varieties that were originally
introduced
by professional plant breeders over 100 years ago? Would it be
fair
to eliminate all of these varieties from the group?
In conclusion, we believe
gardening
should be fun. So, how strict you want your definition to be is
purely
a personal matter. Choose the varieties that seem the most
interesting to you! Keep growing your old favorites, but
make
sure to include a few different ones each year. You may find
varieties
you like even more!
Question:
Some of my beans have
developed
black spots on the pods and stems. What is this and should I be
worried
about it spreading to my other crops in the garden?
From Ed W. in Franklin, New
Jersey.
Answer:
It seems like you may have a
problem with Anthracnose, a fungal disease that is mostly
prevalent
in the eastern United States. The cool, wet weather of spring
helps
promote the development of this disease, so next year, try planting
your
bean crop a little later in the season. As this disease
progresses,
the veins on the underside of the leaves will also turn black.
This
disease is easily spread by handling infested plants and then working
among
uninfected ones, especially when the plants are wet. To control
this
disease, the infected plants can be sprayed with a sulfur based
fungicide
early in its development. Make sure to follow all directions on
the
container label. If this does not work, remove and discard (DO
NOT
place in the compost bin) the diseased plants so it does not spread
throughout
the garden. Other plants that are susceptible to this disease
are:
cucumbers, mint, melons, peppers, pumpkins, squash and tomatoes.
Question:
I have a beautiful and
delicious
patch of chives growing in my garden. My question is: Can I
bring it inside to continue harvesting from during the winter?
How
should I do this?
Amy from Erie, PA
Answer:
In late summer, dig the clump
of chives out of the garden and place in a small pot filled with a good
potting mix (do not use one with added fertilizer). Leave the pot
outside, in order for the chives to establish themselves in the
container.
As late fall approaches, continue to leave outside until the tops die
back
and the roots freeze. The plant needs to go through a cold,
dormant
period in order to send up shoots again. After a few weeks, bring
the pot inside and place in a sunny windowsill. The plant should
start growing again in a few weeks, supplying you with fresh chives
during
the winter months!
Question:
I have read various places,
that to control caterpillars in the garden, an insecticide with "BT"
should
be used. What is BT and is it harmful to other
insects?
Bert from Eagle River, Wisconsin.
Answer:
BT (Bacillus thuringiensis)
is a type of bacterium that kills leaf eating caterpillars. It
effects
the caterpillar's digestive system and eventually kills them. It
is not harmful to other insects, humans or pets. The BT must be
consumed
by the caterpillar in order to be effective, so be sure to apply it
when
the caterpillars are present, as it has little residual effect.
All
parts of the plant leaves, especially the undersides, should be
thoroughly
covered. And as always, follow the instructions as directed on
the
product container.
Question:
I have heard you can leave
carrots
in the ground over the winter to harvest during the colder
months.
Is this true, and how do I do this? Kevin, from Champaign,
Illinois.
Answer:
Many root crops can be stored
in this manner. When the weather starts to get colder during late
fall, mulch your carrots, beets, parsnips, turnips, etc. with 8 to 12
inches
of straw or shredded leaves. Depending on what part of the
country
you live in, you can pick these crops through much of the winter season
by lifting the mulch and harvesting as many as needed. Once the
ground
starts to freeze, though, remove all the roots and store inside.
Warning: The thick mulch may attract mice and other small rodents
into the garden area.
Question:
I love the taste of chamomile
tea, and would like to try growing my own chamomile. How do I dry
it for this purpose? From Grace M. in Roseau, Minnesota.
Answer:
When the flower petals begin
to turn upward, carefully remove them. Dry the petals in the
shade
on a sheet of paper. Make sure to protect from the wind! Do
not use screening to dry the petals, as they tend to cling to the
screen.
Once the petals are dried, store in an air tight container.
Question:
My gardening friends use
newspaper
as a mulch in their garden. I try to grow as organically as
possible.
Is the ink in the newspaper safe for my garden soil?
From Patty T. in Kirksville,
Missouri.
Answer:
Almost all the black ink used
in today's newspapers is soy based and will not harm the soil.
However,
avoid using any newspaper that is printed in color or has a slick feel
to it (many newspaper inserts use this type of paper). Color inks
often contain heavy metals and should not be used in the garden.
To stop the newspaper from blowing away or to hide its somewhat
unsightly
appearance, try covering it with a light layer of hay or straw.
At
the end of the season, the newspaper can be tilled into the soil.
Question:
Why doesn't my romaine lettuce
grow nice heads like the ones I see at the supermarket? Mine are
always small and look more like leaf lettuce. Robin
K.
from Morehead, Kentucky.
Answer:
Romaine lettuce, as well as
all heading varieties of lettuce, needs plenty of space and cool
weather
to form nice heads. The biggest mistake most people make is to
plant
the lettuce seeds too thickly. When the plants begin to sprout,
they
cannot bring themselves to thin the crop. "What harm will it do
if
I leave a few extra plants in the ground? I hate to waste so many
of them!" is what some people think. Romaine lettuce should be
thinned
to at least 6 inches between plants. A pair of household
scissors
work great for this job, by simply cutting the extra plants off at
ground
level. These "baby" lettuce leaves can be added to a salad so
they
are not wasted. Also keep in mind that romaine lettuce needs cool
temperatures in order to form heads. In many areas of the
country,
the "cool" spring growing season is too short for this to happen.
If this is a problem for you, try growing the head lettuce varieties
during
the fall when the weather will be cooler as they are forming.
Question:
I tried growing some of the
older varieties of snap beans last year, and they all had strings along
the pod. Does this usually happen in the older variety of beans?
From Milton in Spruce Pine,
North Carolina
Many people like the superior flavor of the older varieties, and that's why they're so popular even today. But the pods will develop strings if left on the plant too long. Simply pick the beans sooner, before the strings develop. This way, you'll get tender, delicious tasting beans and the plants will produce over a longer period of time. Here's a bonus tip: Make sure to sow a second crop of beans about a month after your first crop. This will help extend your harvest time!
Question:
It seems every year I get less
and less crops from my cucumbers, squash and other vining crops.
I think the plants are receiving enough water and the pH of my soil is
6.5. What could be the problem? Joe H. in
Seymour,
Indiana.
Answer:
The vegetables that you
mentioned
all need to have their flowers pollinated to produce fruit. The
bee
population in the United States has been on the decline for the last
decade
or more, and this may be why they are not producing as well as
before.
To increase production of these and any other vegetables that need
pollinated,
try planting flowers and herbs in your garden that will attract
pollinating
insects. Some good flowers
to
try would be Baby Blue-Eyes, Wallflower, Cornflower, Cosmos, Purple
Coneflower,
Sweet William, Butterfly Weed, Candytuft, Rocky Mountain Beeplant, Corn
Poppy, Black-Eye Susan, Aster and Forget-Me-Not. Herbs
would
include: Wild Bergamot, Coriander, Dill, Mint, Bee Balm, Hyssop, Joe
Pye
Weed and Ox-Eye Daisy.
Wildflower mixes such as our Beneficial Insect Mix, Honey Bee Mix
and
Hummingbird/Butterfly Mix will also help attract pollinating insects,
if
planted nearby.
QUESTION:
I'm getting ready to start
another
crop of lettuce, but have had little success in the heat of
summer.
Any suggestions? From Mark T. in
Plainville,
Kansas
ANSWER:
First off, lettuce seeds do
not germinate well in warn weather, so start your seeds inside for
summer
plantings. Once the plants have a few sets of true leaves, harden
them off and transplant into the garden. Choose a location that
is
shaded from the afternoon sun and water the plants on a regular
basis.
Summer grown lettuce should be picked when young and tender, as it
becomes
bitter after the seed stalks begin to form. - Varieties best suited for
summer growing include: Oak Leaf, Key Lime, Prize Head, Salad Bowl,
Wakefield
Crunch, Broad Leaf Escarole, Cimmaron Romaine and Salad King Green
Curled
Endive.
QUESTION:
My vegetable plants have
thousands
of small white insects on the undersides of the leaves. I have
never
had a problem like this before. What are they and how do I get rid of
them?
From Betsy P. in Hudson,
Michigan.
ANSWER:
Looks like you have a problem
with whiteflies. Whiteflies gather on the undersides of leaves in
huge numbers and fly off in swarms when disturbed. The adults are
minute
sucking insects with powdery white wings. The larvae are 1/30",
flattened,
legless, and translucent.
PEST DAMAGE:
The adults and larvae suck sap
from the leaves, causing them to become pale and curled. They also
secrete
a sticky, sugary substance called honeydew. The fruits and foliage
become
sticky, and black mold grows on the honeydew coated areas.
PROPER TREATMENT:
Whiteflies are one of the
hardest
insects to keep under control once they reach significant numbers in
the
garden. Try these three suggestions: Spray infested plants with
insecticidal
soap, attract beneficial insects (lady
bugs, green lacewings or parasitic wasps) into the garden, or use
whitefly
traps to lure them away from infested plants.
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