100 Favorite Dishes, No. 26: Bacon-Encrusted Bone Marrow at Knife

bacon-bone-marrow.jpg
Bacon-flavored-bread-crumb-encrusted-bone-marrow on a bed of salt
To prepare for this fall's Best of Dallas® 2014 issue, we're counting down (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes. If there's a dish you think we need to try, leave it in the comments, or email me.

This might be the most absurd, gratuitous, over-the-top dish on this list of 100 Favorite Dishes. Bone marrow is one of the most rich and decadent ingredients to be harvested from an animal, and when roasted it yields the most amazing spread for bread.

Most restaurants serve it simply, with a little parsley salad and a knife for spreading. At Knife, though, where John Tesar has embraced ingredients like bacon more than any Dallas chef before him, a simple salad is pointless. In fact, he goes so far as to minimize it.

Beneath that singular celery leaf there is a layer of bread crumbs toasted in bacon fat, with little crumbles of bacon for good measure. The bread crumbs are generously sprinkled over a length of a calf's leg bone that's been split down the center to resemble a canoe.

When the little bone meets the heat of the oven, the marrow softens and even liquifies a touch, impregnating the breadcrumbs above with even more richness. If that wasn't enough, the whole thing gets topped with two lobes of uni from the west coast. Sometimes, according to the bartender who served me, the uni is replaced with a quenelle of caviar but the effect is the same -- a briny bite that cuts what is literally a boat load of fatty flavor.

No. 100: Pastrami Egg Rolls at Blind Butcher
No. 99: Chicken-fried Steak at Tom's Burgers and Grill
No. 98: Pasta with Uni Butter at Nonna
No. 97: Camarón en Agua Chile at La Palapas
No. 96: The Wings at Lakewood Landing
No. 94: Chicken Kebab at Afrah
No. 93: Trompo Tacos at Bachman Lake
No. 92: Fish and Chips at 20 Feet
No. 91: Canelés at Village Baking Co.
No. 90: Banh Mi from La Me
No. 88: The Burgers at Off-Site Kitchen
No. 87: The White Album at Spoon
No. 86: Ramen at Tei An
No. 85: Tacos at Revolver Taco
No. 84: Stuffed Chicken Wings at Sakhuu
No. 83: Korean Fried Chicken at Bonchon
No. 82: Grilled Branzino at Tei Tei Robata
No. 81: The Toddfather at Cattleack Barbecue
No. 80: The Biryanis at Chennai
No. 79: Shish Tawook at Qariah
No. 78: Arepes at Zaguan
No. 77: Goat Momo at Everest Restaurant
No. 76: Steak Tartar at Gemma
No. 75: Escabeche at Joyce and Gigi's
No. 74: Spicy Fish in Oil at Royal Sichuan
No. 73: Pupusas at La Pasadita
No. 72: The Kathi Roll at Simply Dosa
No. 71: The Chicken Wings at Teppo
No. 70: Cheesesteak at Truck Yard
No. 69: Chicken and Waffles at Jonathon's
No. 68: Birria Tacos at Los Torres Taqueria
No. 67: Bulgogi Cheesesteak at Say Kimchi
No. 66: Suadero Tacos at La Banqueta
No. 65: Brian Luscher's Post Oak Red Hot
No. 64: Banana Flower Salad at Mot Hai Ba
No. 63: Cinco Leches Cake At Mesero Miguel
No. 62: Cabrito a la Parilla at El Ranchito
No. 61: Reuben at Kuby's
No. 60: Plain Cheese Pizza Cooked Extra Crispy at Zoli's
No. 59: Enmoladas at Mesa
No. 58: Pig's Head at CBD Provisions
No. 57: Rib "Sandwich" at Baby Back Shak
No. 56: Beef Noodle Soup at Monkey King
No. 55: The Nachos at Spiral Diner
No. 54: Elotes, Everywhere
No. 53: The Popeye At Green Grocer
No. 52: The Cuban at International Bakery
No. 51: Rush Patisserie's Croissant
No. 50: Kitfo From Sheba's Ethiopian Kitchen
No. 49: Beer at Craft and Growler
No. 48: Pastor Tacos at El Rincon
No. 47: Banh Mi From Nammi
No. 46: Beef Fajitas From Mariano's
No. 45: Italian Combo from Carbone's
No. 44: The Brisket at Pecan Lodge
No. 43: Chicken-Fried Steak at Ellen's Southern Kitchen
No. 42: Carnitas Tacos at Taqueria Y Carneseria Guanajuato
No. 41: Lamb Burger at LARK
No. 40: Regina Margherita At Cane Rosso
No. 39: Barbacoa At Barbacoa Estilo Hidalgo
No. 38: The Peace 'Stachio at Hypnotic Donuts
No. 37: Nasi Lemak at Kampong
No. 36: A Rotisserie Chicken Taco at Velvet Taco
No. 35: The Burger At Boulevardier
No. 34: Surfers On Acid At Local Oak
No. 33: Bread Pudding at Sissy's
No. 32: Pelmeni at the Russian Banya
No. 31: Loukoumathes at Greek Fest
No. 30: The Charcuterie Plate at FT33
No. 29: Short Rib Grilled Cheese at East Hampton
No. 28: The Fried Bologna Sandwich at Maple and Motor
No. 27: The Pastrami Sandwich at the Whistling Pig


Location Info

Knife

5680 N Central Expy,, Dallas, TX

Category: Restaurant


Advertisement

My Voice Nation Help
15 comments
username.neil
username.neil

I see a few people saying the dish is good so it must be a matter of consistency because NOBODY would like the dish i was served. 

username.neil
username.neil

OMG i just had that dish last Saturday and it was horrible... The marrow was melted so it was greasy bacon bits with hot fishy uni on top and didn't even come with a piece of bread so i guess im supposed to just eat the greasy bacon bits with a spoon. Something must have went VERY wrong because I have eaten bone marrow in 20 places and this is the most expensive and worst tasting i've ever had, not to mention the smallest serving.

DemigodH
DemigodH

Interesting. I'd say it's the worst bone marrow dish I've ever had. I went to Knife on your burger recommendation and thank god the burger was as good as you said because I hated this bone marrow dish. It's served on a bed of salt but is already incredibly salty from the bacon and uni so I completely ruined one bite by adding extra salt (which is almost always what you do with bone marrow and it was on the freaking plate so I don't think it was my fault to assume to add some). 


There's also a big temperature problem with cold uni and what is typically hot bone marrow. I guess they get around that by just serving the bone marrow room temperature because even the bone was cool to the touch. The uni adds nothing to the dish but to make it fancier and more decadent. In fact, every added element pretty much takes away from the bone marrow. I love bone marrow, it's one of my favorite things (particularly from Blue Ribbon). Uni is also one of my favorite ingredients. This dish, in my opinion, is a failed concept that is probably ordered a ton because it reads incredibly well on the menu. 


All that said, totally worth eating if it gets you to that burger.




username.neil
username.neil

@DemigodH Somebody must have read you review cuz when I got my bone marrow last saturday it was all melted and very hot so there was no marrow just greasy bacon bits with hot fishy uni on top.. it was the nastiest bone marrow EVER and the most expensive.

Sharon_Moreanus
Sharon_Moreanus topcommenter

Bwahahaha....you ordered a dish that's presented on a bed of salt (salty). Topped with bacon (salty) and uni (salty). Then you put more salt (salty) on it without even tasting it first. Classic.

scott.reitz
scott.reitz moderator

@DemigodH I knew this one would be polarizing (comment bellow). I liked this one like you like some art -- the kind that's interesting, but not something you'd want to hang in your home. And yes, to that burger, but if you're eating them side by side you're a masochist. 

Sharon_Moreanus
Sharon_Moreanus topcommenter

How would they read his comment posted 5 hours ago for last Saturday.

DemigodH
DemigodH

@Sharon_Moreanus Thank you for clarifying salt as "salty". Twice. I should have tasted it first and/or considered the fact that every other ingredient is salty. That said, everywhere I've ordered bone marrow it is served with salt and the intention of the diner adding it. Accordingly, I assumed I knew what to do with the ingredients placed on the plate. As another example, I don't taste my pho before adding the additional herbs it is served with.


@username.neil my order also did not come with bread so i had to ask for it. Also had to ask for a spoon. 


@scott.reitz Makes sense and it's the type of dish that's almost impossible not to order. Just one of those that I wish sounder logic entered my thought process before getting swept away by the menu description of bone marrow, uni and bacon.

username.neil
username.neil

@Sharon_Moreanus If it's already so salty then why is it on a bed of salt???????????? Can the people at knife not taste the food? It's very easy to get salt on your food when presented like this.  Dont' put anything on a plate that doesn't have  a purpose. Modern Chef 101


username.neil
username.neil

@scott.reitz @DemigodH If that's really what you thought Scott then why would that make the 100 favorite dishes list? This isn't 100 interesting dishes.  lol. You are a mystery to me.
That being said I had an open faced sous vide beef cheek sandwich that was pretty incredible although sauce too heavy and sweet (and they called it gravy for some insane reasoning).

A sticky, sweet mushroom gravy.. too weird for me


username.neil
username.neil

@Sharon_Moreanus I already posted a comment that did not appear so here it is again;
i was joking, as to say i had the exact opposite situation as him in reference to my hot bone and his cold bone.

Now Trending

From the Vault

 

Loading...