city kitchen
A Succulent Brisket Almost as Good as Mom’s
By DAVID TANIS
It may not be the same, but a version seasoned with spices, topped with tons of caramelized onions, gets close to a beloved original.
His Dream in Reach, an Immigrant Chef Is Suddenly Unsettled
By FERNANDA SANTOS
Deanna Alejandra Dent for The New York Times
Suny Santana, left, and Aaron Chamberlin at the St. Francis restaurant in Phoenix, where Mr. Chamberlin hired Mr. Santana in 2011. The two plan to open Taco Chelo, a taqueria, in November.
Suny Santana, brought to America as a child, was set to open a restaurant when he learned that the government may end his permission to stay.
A Good Appetite
A Cake That Showcases the Beauty of Figs
By MELISSA CLARK
Chopped up fresh figs and a honeyed cream cheese frosting make this cake perfect for Rosh Hashana and beyond.
What to Cook This Weekend
By SAM SIFTON
There are two weeks left before the fall equinox: Embrace the waning days of summer with grilled pork and peaches or steamed corn with clams and bacon.
Hotel Buffets, a Culprit of Food Waste, Get Downsized
By LINDA HIMELSTEIN
Hyatt has teamed up with Ideo, the global design firm, to remake the buffet, a hotel staple that oozes excess.
An Israeli Chef Looks to the Landscape
By JOAN NATHAN
Erez Komarovsky influenced a generation of Israeli chefs by embracing local ingredients and dishes long belong it was in style.
Hungry City
Burgers and Franks Go Over the Top at Prontito in Queens
By LIGAYA MISHAN
This Colombian restaurant in Elmhurst specializes in glorious excess.
The Pour
From an Undervalued Region in France, New Energy, New Inspiration and Great Wines
By ERIC ASIMOV
A younger generation of winemakers has created reasons to care about Cahors.
How Does the Hamptons Garden Grow? With a Lot of Paid Help
By STACEY STOWE
On the East End of Long Island, the professionally planted and tended vegetable garden requires a different kind of green.
Will the Trump Era Transform the School Lunch?
By KIM SEVERSON
The administration has vowed to roll back some Obama-era moves, but the real action is happening at the local level.
A Taste of Indian Nostalgia Finds an Eager Audience
By PRIYA KRISHNA
A take on Kwality, a beloved brand, in the United States is inspiring childlike elation among those who missed its wide-ranging flavors.
A Life’s Many Acts Culminate in the Kitchen at NA/NA in Paris
By MELISSA CLARK
The chef Nathaly Nicolas-Ianniello, a former ecological journalist, serves dishes like ganache with black sesame miso to adventurous Parisians.
An Accidentally Creamier, Fluffier Potato Salad
By MELISSA CLARK
A mashed potato salad, the result of overmixing, can be a very good thing indeed, worth even making on purpose.
off the menu
Patisserie Chanson’s Dessert Bar Opens in Flatiron District
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
The latest from Ravi DeRossi, dim-sum-style Italian in the West Village, and other restaurant news.
Front Burner
A New Coffee Destination, Shrimp From the Hudson Valley and More Food News
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Nespresso plans a flagship store on Madison Avenue, cheese ephemera and shrimp grown aquaponically in a former mattress factory.
Eat
For Chicken-Fried Steak, Too Much Is Just Enough
By SAM SIFTON
Queso gravy elevates the simple dish.
Critic’s Notebook
A Wish List for New Restaurants
By PETE WELLS
We may not need more restaurants, but we do need restaurants run by and for a larger slice of society.
OpenTable Began a Revolution. Now It’s a Power Under Siege.
By STEPHANIE STROM
Nearly 20 years after it changed the way we make restaurant reservations, the company and the new sector it created are still struggling.
The Restaurant Preview
In Fall’s New Restaurants, Fresh Starts and Simple Pleasures
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Danny Ghitis for The New York Times
A selection of dishes from Lobster Club, a Japanese-style brasserie. Tasuku Murakami heads the kitchen at Lobster Club, the first American restaurant designed by Peter Marino.
Florence Fabricant shares details on the New York openings she’s most excited about.
The 2017 Fall Restaurant Preview
By THE NEW YORK TIMES
Highly anticipated restaurant openings, and an industry in transformation.
To Survive in Tough Times, Restaurants Turn to Data-Mining
By KAREN STABINER
Establishments are looking to a host of new software systems that scoop up fine details from all over on customers, servers and sales.
A Star Chef From Asia Lands in New York
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
David Laris, an Australian with a long résumé and a new interest in healthful eating, will open Eden this fall.
Dumbo Stakes Its Claim as a Dining Destination
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Sugarcane Raw Bar Grill from Miami and Las Vegas, Celestine from a team of experienced restaurateurs, and a brewpub from the group behind Randolph Beer are all opening in the area.
Fausto, in Franny’s Old Space, Will Focus on Wine
By ERIC ASIMOV
The new owners of a beloved Brooklyn spot aim for a more stylish restaurant than is typical in Park Slope, with local, seasonal Italian fare.
Some Lost New York Restaurants Will Get a New Life
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Fall will bring reincarnations of La Goulue, Bond 45 and other mourned places.
From Kaiseki to Ramen, a Fresh Shipment of Asian Imports
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Established restaurants in Japan and China will feed New Yorkers this fall with distinctive cuisine.
New Coffee Flagships Match Style With Substance
By OLIVER STRAND
Two Brooklyn roasters, Sey Coffee, in Bushwick, and Nobletree in Red Hook, are unveiling shops that are designed to impress.
Why Settle for a Brew When There’s a Whole Brewery?
By JOSHUA M. BERNSTEIN
New York is getting a number of new places where you can enjoy a pint and see how it’s made.
With Ajjuma, Sunny Lee Plans to Put Korean Sides Front and Center
By JULIA MOSKIN
Nontraditional takes on banchan, small plates that are staples of the Korean table, will be the focus of her new restaurant, opening this fall.
A New York Perch for Aviary, Chicago’s High-Concept Bar
By ROBERT SIMONSON
The first branch of Grant Achatz’s experimental bar unfolds its quirky charms here next month.
New York Chefs Move Beyond the City
By TEJAL RAO
Lower overheads and greater opportunities for work-life balance are drawing city chefs to New Jersey and Long Island.
In Brooklyn, a Chance to Enjoy Factory-Fresh Ice Cream
By TEJAL RAO
Ample Hills and OddFellows are opening plants where fans can sample the wares and see how the good stuff is made.
Restaurants Follow the Building Boom on Staten Island
By TEJAL RAO
From tiny wine bars to sprawling barbecue restaurants, the North Shore food scene is expanding to meet the needs of new residents.
Chelsea Market Expands With a Food-Focused Floor
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Chelsea Local opens on the lower level of the building, a new food market comes to Brooklyn and quick pastas from a Del Posto chef.
Eggslut’s Alvin Cailan Tries Healthy Indulgence at Paper Planes
By LIGAYA MISHAN
The chef envisions his first restaurant in the city, to open by the end of the year, as part all-day restaurant, part “nouveau deli.”
Putting Fresh Spins on the Steakhouse
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Greek or Turkish, vegetable-loving or pork-proud, this fall’s new houses of beef are a motley lot.
Restaurants and News
An Egg Is More Than Just an Egg at While in Kathmandu
By LIGAYA MISHAN
an Rong Xu for The New York Times
A Nepali restaurant in Queens plunks its breakfast on a pancake, and blurs the border with American cooking.
Restaurant Review
The Grill Is Confident, Theatrical, Sharp and New Yorky
By PETE WELLS
The former Grill Room of the Four Seasons now holds a restaurant with a full-battery charge.
Alice Waters on Sex, Drugs and Sustainable Agriculture
By KIM SEVERSON
In a memoir, the chef who pioneered farm-to-table food at Chez Panisse expounds on her wild early years, her politics and how she wants to be buried.
A Mystery Ball Where the Illuminati Have Cloven Hooves
By ANDY NEWMAN
Thirty partygoers board a bus bound for secret location and an immersive theater piece featuring a banquet, a naked swim and a plea for animal rights.
The Kitchen Is Her Stage. (It Could Actually Be Your Kitchen.)
By LIGAYA MISHAN
For “Oh My Sweet Land,” Amir Nizar Zuabi’s one-woman play, Nadine Malouf will make fragrant kibbe while recounting stories of displacement in the Middle East.
Neighborhood Joint
Eataly Draws Tourists, but Its Produce Lures Regulars
By SHIVANI VORA
The Italian food emporium in the Flatiron has a produce section that rivals those of nearby markets. Many cooks in the know like to shop there.
‘Great British Bake Off’ Is Still a Treat for Many Viewers
By NOEL MURRAY
The cheerful British hit has been rocked by drama since it left BBC last year, but the first episode of the new season felt reassuringly familiar.
A Catskills Art Scene Makes a Splash With Free Curry
By DAVID COLMAN
Unclebrother, opened by Gavin Brown and Rirkrit Tiravanija in the town of Hancock, N.Y., is part restaurant, part art gallery.
Pumpkin Spice Glut Arrives Earlier Than Ever
By TIFFANY HSU
Consumers complain that the summertime arrival of pumpkin spice products — already slowing in growth — smacks of Christmas creep.
Martha’s Vineyard Has a Nourishing Magic for Black Americans
By NICOLE TAYLOR
My first vacation on the island was bartered. That was seven years ago, and I’ve been drawn back every summer since.
Tom Colicchio Changes His Restaurant’s Racially Tinged Name
By KIM SEVERSON
The chef is renaming Fowler & Wells, after learning about the name’s connection with the debunked theories of phrenology.
Essay
Tasting the Sweetness of Summer, Berry by Berry
By A. HOPE JAHREN
Berries clothe seeds and fertilize them when they drop to the ground, and one summer they taught a young woman to savor time.
hungry city
Afghan Delights, Delicate and Rugged, at Sami’s Kabab House in Queens
By LIGAYA MISHAN
The menu is brief and unfussy at this Astoria restaurant, drawing in part from the ancestry of its owner, Sami Zaman, and offering simple, gratifying dishes.
Cooking
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
The pork loin cooks faster when it is butterflied, a simple cutting technique.
This butterflied pork loin, flavored with plenty of garlic, cumin and herbs, cooks quickly and feeds a crowd.
City Kitchen
A Clam Chowder That Tastes Like Summer
By DAVID TANIS
The building blocks for a classic version are salt pork (or bacon), potatoes and milk, but what about adding a bit of polenta and zucchini?
A Good Appetite
Want to Make Creamed Corn Into a Meal? Add Shrimp
By MELISSA CLARK
In this riff on shrimp and grits, fresh creamed corn spiked with feta takes the place of the usual grits.
City Kitchen
The Allure of Argentina’s Bubbling Cheese
By DAVID TANIS
Fragrant with oregano, crisped at the edges, and beginning to ooze: Provoleta, a typical appetizer, is a strong way to start a meal.
Think Beet and Goat Cheese Salad Is a Cliché? A New Recipe Proves It’s a Classic
By JULIA MOSKIN
Our version vibrates with the tension between salt and vinegar, crunch and richness, sweetness and tang.
Eat
When to Cook Your Vegetables Long Past ‘Done’
By SAMIN NOSRAT
Simmering for hours yields deliriously sweet and rich vegetables.
A Good Appetite
The Best Way to Let Summer Fruit Shine
By MELISSA CLARK
The cobbler, a seasonal standby, can be made with pie crust, biscuits or cake — but its greatest versatility lies in the fruit you use.
City Kitchen
Swap the Hot Grill for a Cool Drink and Low Oven
By DAVID TANIS
Thai-style pork ribs, marinated with honey, soy and ginger, just need a turn in the oven before being painted with glaze.
Drinks
Cider Moves Beyond the Apple
By JASON WILSON
Brendan Bannon for The New York Times
Perry, the traditional name for pear cider, at Blackduck Cidery in Ovid, N.Y.
Pear, quince, strawberry: All kinds of flavors are being brought into play by cider makers big and small.
Advertising
Statesman Bourbon Hits the Big Screen and the Shelves
By ZACH SCHONBRUN
In a bit of reverse product placement, the spinoff of the Old Forester brand was created for “Kingsman: The Golden Circle” and is now available to buy.
Alsatian Wines Strike a Balance of Dry and Sweet
By ERIC ASIMOV
For years, the region has battled its reputation for unexpectedly sweet and cloying wines. It’s time to look again.
La Morra Journal
In Italy’s Drought-Hit Vineyards, the Harvest of a Changing Climate
By JASON HOROWITZ
Some producers in Barolo say this year’s heat wave will improve their wines. But others warn of a loss of balance, in the season and in the grapes.
Wine School
Wine School
Godello, a Case Study in the Character of Wine
By ERIC ASIMOV
Fans of this Spanish wine, short on modern history, are still determining what makes it distinctive.
Learn to Cook
Cooking
How to Make Jam
By ALISON ROMAN
In this guide, we’ll walk you through making and canning jams — using berries, stone fruit, tomatoes, apples or pears — letting you savor the season all year round.
Featured Recipes
How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques
A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.
Recent Reviews
The Most Delicious Summer on Record
By THE NEW YORK TIMES
Advice for camp cooking, picnics and potlucks, along with recipes, cocktails, frozen desserts and a taste-test of the best supermarket hot dogs.
Culinary Travel
Trending
Five Places to Learn to Make Gelato in Italy
By SHIVANI VORA
Here’s a scoop: In Rome, Turin and Florence instructors teach students how to make gelato (yes, tastings are included)
Pursuits
In the Yakima Valley, Serious Wines and Sweeping Vistas
By ALICE GABRIEL
Tasting rooms without attitude, wine-friendly menus and fields of wheat and spearmint are among the many charms of this region of Washington State.
Bites
Meril, From Emeril Lagasse, Looks Beyond New Orleans for Inspiration
By JOHN L. DORMAN
“This is not the typical New Orleans experience,” Mr. Lagasse said. “Meril is how I think people want to eat today.”
MOST POPULAR - FOOD
- The Pour: From an Undervalued Region in France, New Energy, New Inspiration and Great Wines
- city kitchen: A Succulent Brisket Almost as Good as Mom’s
- Front Burner: A New Coffee Destination, Shrimp From the Hudson Valley and More Food News
- How Does the Hamptons Garden Grow? With a Lot of Paid Help
- When Jack Daniel’s Failed to Honor a Slave, an Author Rewrote History
- The Pour: From an Undervalued Region in France, New Energy, New Inspiration and Great Wines
- Hotel Buffets, a Culprit of Food Waste, Get Downsized
- city kitchen: A Succulent Brisket Almost as Good as Mom’s
- Will the Trump Era Transform the School Lunch?
- His Dream in Reach, an Immigrant Chef Is Suddenly Unsettled
- How Does the Hamptons Garden Grow? With a Lot of Paid Help
- A Good Appetite: A Cake That Showcases the Beauty of Figs
- Critic’s Notebook: A Wish List for New Restaurants
- Hungry City: Burgers and Franks Go Over the Top at Prontito in Queens
- What to Cook This Weekend
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