Journal Articles

Journal Articles and Book Chapters

NOTE:This listing is in reverse chronological order with the most recent additions listed first.

All links below either go to the DTIC library of publications or to one of several journal referencing sites depending on the journal the article was originally published by. Some DRAFT versions are hosted locally until actual publication by the journal. For the items listed without links, this website does not presently have the authority to publish the actual articles.

List of articles by Fiscal Year
FY 2016	Long-term Morphological Modeling of Barrier Island Tidal Inlets Numerical Modeling of Sedimentation by Storm Waves at Sand Island in Lake Superior, Wisconsin Physical Modelling of Tsunamis Generated by Three-dimensional Deformable Granular Landslides on Planar and Conical Island Slopes Dune Management Challenges on Developed Coasts A Comparative Study between the IGN-2 Equations and the Fully Nonlinear, Weakly Dispersive Boussinesq Equations On Wave-Current Interaction by the Green-Naghdi Equations in Shallow Water A Simplified Physically-based Model for Coastal Dike and Barrier Breaching by Overtopping Flow and Waves A Depth-averaged 2-D Model of Flow and Sediment Transport in Coastal Waters Vessel Underkeel Clearance Reliability Model
FY 2015	Wave and Hydrodynamic Modeling for Engineering Design of Jetties at Tangier Island in Chesapeake Bay, USA Modeling Study of Dana Point Harbor, California: Littoral Sediment Transport around a Semi-permeable Breakwater Numerical Modeling of Sedimentation by Storm Waves at Sand Island in Lake Superior, Wisconsin
FY 2014	Selection of Dredging Projects for Maximizing Waterway System Performance Waterway Performance Monitoring via Automatic Identification System Data Numerical Study of Sandbar Migration under Wave-Undertow Interaction Morphological Evolution of a submerged artificial nearshore berm along a low-wave microtidal coast, Fort Meyers Beach, West-Central Florida, USA Evolution of a Swash Zone Berm Nourishment and influence of Berm Elevation on the Performance of Beach-Nearshore Nourishments along Perdido Key, Florida, USA Flow and Turbulence Over an Oyster Reef Reducing Shoaling in the Texas GIWW and Erosion of Barrier Islands along West Galveston Bay
FY 2013	Analyses of Extreme Wave Heights in the Gulf of Mexico for Offshore Engineering Applications Historical Sediment Transport Pathways and Quantities for Determining an Operational Sediment Budget: Mississippi Sound Barrier Islands Regional Sediment Processes, Sediment Supply, and Their Impact on the Louisiana Coast Numerical study on sandbar migration under the interaction of waves and undertow The Modified Bruun Rule Extended for Landward Transport Modeling of Coastal Inundation, Storm Surge, and Relative Sea-Level Rise at Naval Station Norfolk, Norfolk, Virginia, U.S.A. **Book Chapter: Non-Equilibrium Sediment Transport Modeling - Formulations and Closures Book Chapter: Non-Equilibrium Sediment Transport Modeling - Extensions and Applications Book Chapter: Beach Erosion: Causes and Stabilization
FY 2012	Parametric Adjustments to Rankine Vortex Wind Model for Gulf of Mexico Hurricanes Morphodynamics of an anthropogenically altered dual-inlet system: John's Pass and Blind Pass, west-central Florida, USA Tidal Inlet Morphology Classification and Empirical Determination of Seaward and Down-Drift Extents of Tidal Inlets
FY 2011	The Coastal Modeling System Flow Model (CMS-Flow): Past and Present Recent Capabilities of CMS-Wave: A Coastal Wave Model for Inlets and Navigation Projects An Implicit 2-D Shallow Water flow Model on Unstructured Quadtree Rectangular Mesh A Unified Sediment Transport Model for Inlet Application A Non-Equilibrium Sediment Transport Model for Coastal Inlets and Navigation Channels Lack of Evidence for Onshore Sediment Transport from Deep Water at Decadal Time Scales: Fire Island, New York Modeling Regional-Scale Sediment Transport and Medium-term Morphology Change at a Dual Inlet System Examined with the Coastal Modeling System (CMS): A Case Study at Johns Pass and Blind Pass, West-Central Florida Seasonal Change in Nearshore and Channel Morphology at Packery Channel, A New Inlet Serving Corpus Christi, Texas New Ebb-Tidal Delta at an Old Inlet Shark River Inlet, New Jersey Long-Term Evolution of a Long-Term Evolution Model Analysis of Packery Channel Public Access Boat Ramp Shoreline Failur Channel Shoaling with Deepening of Houma Navigation Channel at Cat Island Pass, Louisiana Coupling of Wave and Current Numerical Model with Unstructured Quadtree Grid for Nearshore Coastal Waters Sediment budget possibilities and improbabilities
FY 2010	Infragravity Wave Motions and Runup over Shallow Fringing Reefs WAVECALC: an Excel-VBA spreadsheet to model the characteristics of fully developed waves and their influence on bottom sediments in different water depths Erosional equivalences of levees: Steady and intermittent wave overtopping The potential of wetlands in reducing storm surgemod Hurricane Katrina and Ocean Engineering Lessons Learned Limits of Wave Runup and Corresponding Beach-Profile Change from Large-Scale Laboratory Data Sand tracer movement measured in a strong rip current A cross-shore model of barrier island migration over a compressible substrate Model of Nearshore Waves and Wave-Induced Currents around a Detached Breakwater Calculation of beach change under interacting cross-shore and longshore processes Frequency of Extreme Storms Based on Beach Erosion at Northern Assateague Island, Maryland
FY 2009	**An Interview with Nicholas C. Kraus (Shore and Beach, Vol 77) Estimation of the wave-related ripple characteristics and induced bed shear stress Geomorphologic Evolution of Barrier Islands along the Northern U.S. Gulf of Mexico and Implications for the Engineering Design in Barrier Restoration Depth-utilization Analysis for Estimating Economic Activity Supported by Dredging Sea Level Rise and Consequences for Navigable Coastal Inlets Laboratory and Numerical Studies of Hydrodynamics Near Jetties Hurricane Ike Along the Upper Texas Coast: An Introduction Equivalent Roughness Height for Plane Bed Oscillatory Flow
FY 2008	Drs. Leo C. van Rijn, Edward B. Thornton, and Nicholas C. Kraus Honored at the Coastal Sediments '07 Conference Episodic Dynamics of a Sand Wave Field. A General Formula for Non-cohesive Suspended Sediment Transport Implementation and evaluation of alternative wave breaking formulas in a coastal spectral wave model Incorporating Rubble Mound Jetties in Elliptic Harbor Wave Models Guidelines Based on Physical and Numerical Modeling Studies for Jetty Spur Design at Coastal Inlets Barrier Beach Breaching from the Lagoon Side, with Reference to Northern California Chapter 31: Engineering of Tidal Inlets and Morphologic Consequences Numerical Modeling of Storm Surges in Chesapeake Bay
FY 2007	Laboratory Investigation of Beach Scarp and Dune Recession Due to Notching and Subsequent Failure A New Formula for the Total Longshore Sediment Transport Rate
FY 2006	Phase Lag Effects in Sheet Flow Transport Equivalent Roughness Height for Plane Bed Under Steady Flow
FY 2005	Evaluation of an Approximate Method for Incorporating Floating Docks in Harbor Wave Prediction Models On the Modeling of Wave-Current Interaction Using the Elliptic Mild-Slope Equation Transport of Gravel and Cobble on a Mixed-sediment Inner Bank Shoreline of a Large Inlet, Grays Harbor, Washington An Unstructured Grid Morphodynamic Model with a Discontinuous Galerkin Method for Bed Evolution Evaluation of Two Numerical Wave Models with Inlet Physical Model Prediction of Swash Motion and Run-Up Including the Effects of Swash Interaction Beach Profile Equilibrium and Patterns of Wave Decay and Energy Dissipation Across the Surf Zone Elucidated in a Large-scale Laboratory Experiment Wave-Adjusted Boundary Condition for Longshore Current in Finite-Volume Circulation Models A General Formula for Non-Cohesive Bed Load Sediment Transport Concepts in Sediment Budgets A Method to Extract Wave Tank Data Using Video Imagery and its Comparison to Conventional Data Collection Techniques
FY 2004	Swash-Zone Sediment Transport and Foreshore Evolution: Field Experiments and Mathematical Modeling Wave Momentum Flux Parameter: A Descriptor for Nearshore Waves Estimation of Wave Runup on Smooth, Impermeable Slopes Using the Wave Momentum Flux Parameter Monitoring Morphology and Currents at the Hatteras Breach Rapid Response 3D Survey Techniques for Seamless Topy/Bathy Modeling: 2003 Hatteras Breach, North Carolina Lateral Structure of Uniform Flow Barrier Island Migration and Morphologic Evolution, Fire Island Inlet, New York(accepted for publication)
FY 2003	"Threes," an Unusual Surfing Spot at Shinnecock Inlet, New York Development of a Regional Neural Network for Coastal Water Level Predictions Transient Tidal Circulation and Momentum Balances at a Shallow Inlet Limiting Slopes and Depths at Ebb-Tidal Shoals Analytical Model of Incipient Breaching of Coastal Barriers Progress in Management of Sediment Bypassing at Coastal Inlets: Natural Bypassing, Weir Jetties, Jetty Spurs, and Engineering Aids in Design Recent Developments in the Geomorphic Investigation of Engineered Tidal Inlets
FY 2002	Lateral Dynamic Analysis and Classification of Barotropic Tidal Inlets T-Head Groin Advancements in One-Line Modeling: (Genesis-T) Inlet Formation and Evolution of the Sediment Bypassing System: New Inlet, Cape Cod, Massachusetts Barrier Breaching Processes and Barrier Spit Breach, Stone Lagoon, California Equilibrium Cross-Section Area at Tidal Inlets
FY 2001	Cross-shore Distribution of Longshore Sediment Transport: Comparison Between Predictive Formulas and Field Measurements Generation of Harmonics by Sea Breeze in Nontidal Water Bodies Numerical Modeling of Waves at Ponce de Leon Inlet, Florida
FY 2000	Wave Pressure Gauge Analysis with a Current Reservoir Model of Ebb-Tidal Shoal Evolution and Sand Bypassing Effect of Offset Jetties on Tidal Inlet Flood Flow Tidal Motion in a Complex Inlet and Bay System, Ponce de Leon Inlet, Florida
1999	A Locally Nonlinear Interpretation of PUV Measurements Hydraulic Study of Multiple Inlet System: East Matagorda Bay, Texas Horizontal Water Trap for Measurement of Aeolian Sand Transport
1998	Historical findings on shoal mining **Comparison of Beach Profiles at a Seawall and Groins, Corpus Christi, Texas (Shore and Beach, Volume 66) Current-Induced Scour Along a Breakwater at Ventura Harbor, CA - Experimental Study
1996	A Perspective on Process Related Research Needs for Sandy Inlets Tidal-Inlet Processes and Morphology Related to the Transport of Sediments Geomorphic Variability and Morphological and Sedimentological Controls on Tidal Inlets Morphological Changes on a Decadal Time Scale in Tidal Inlets: Modeling Approaches Predicting the Stability of Tidal Inlets for Wetland and Estuary Management Interaction of Littoral Barriers and Adjacent Beaches: Effects on Profile Shape and Shoreline Change Navigation and Sand Bypassing at Inlets: Technical Management and Cost Aspects Role of Waves in Inlet Ebb Delta Growth and Some Research Needs Related to Site Selection for Delta Mining
1995	Longshore Sand Waves at Southampton Beach, New York: Observation and Numerical Simulation of Their Movement