T’s men’s fashion editors share their favorites from the latest round of shows.
Craig Green
Though there were hints of the designer’s groundbreaking debut solo show last season — in the quilted fabrics and eastern influences, in the absence of shoes and the Wim Mertens soundtrack — Craig Green‘s fall collection revealed a mature, confident turn that added heft and a certain amount of sexiness to his ethereal designs. Skintight T-shirts with hand-stitched ruching that created off-centered necklines were tucked into his signature oversized karate pants; sweaters with circular cutouts revealed bare torsos; cropped, broadly cut military-style jackets toughened everything up. Where last season was breathtakingly cinematic, Green’s latest collection was full of clothing men could wear in real life. — JR
Tom Ford
When Tom Ford launched his men’s wear brand in 2006, it was ruled by old-Hollywood glamour, complete with decorative smoking robes and dapper suits with wide lapels that would make Fred Astaire proud. This season, Mr. Ford decided to modernize that look with a leaner, sexier silhouette. Suits took on a ’60s sensibility, cut closer to the body with narrower lapels and straight legs and worn with Chelsea boots. Outerwear went more urban, thanks to standout pieces such as cropped shearling jackets shown with jeans, which managed to look masculine without being too bulky or rugged. Luxurious knits were still a staple, as were accessories such as lace-up shoes and travel bags in exotic skins. Most surprising of all was the formal wear, including tuxedos stripped down to their bare essentials and shown with fine-gauge knit turtlenecks and trainers. The designer may have omitted certain elements of his signature dandy style, but in typical Ford fashion, the collection was as chic as ever. — DF Read more…