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In The News / Oct 22

Ham scramble:
Southern delicacy companies struggle to replace methyl bromide

Sam Edwards                                                                              

Mahogany and marbled, Sam Edwards’ thinly-sliced ham melts in your mouth, with flavor that may rival even the finest European meats.

Once referred to as prosciutto’s “redneck cousin,” the South’s country ham industry is undergoing a transformation. Often served with grits and gravy, country ham has become increasingly popular with chefs seeking a local alternative to European dry-cured meats.

The fate of the Southern delicacy, however, lies not on the fickle tongues of foodies, but with environmental regulators and an international treaty.

For more than 30 years, Edwards – like many country ham producers – has used a single chemical to keep critters from infesting high-value hocks.

The phaseout of methyl bromide and other ozone-depleting chemicals has been hailed as a great success. But a few industries are allowed to keep using the pesticide.

That chemical, methyl bromide, is being phased out under a 1987 United Nations treaty because it is one of the most potent compounds depleting the Earth’s protective ozone layer. The nation’s country ham producers – about 50 companies – are hanging on as they scramble to find a pest-killing alternative.

The ham industry is exempted under the U.N.’s Montreal Protocol, but its annual allocations of methyl bromide are shrinking. Next year, its allowable use will decline 9 percent from the amount allowed this year.

“If you were to take methyl bromide away today, we couldn’t produce our long-cured hams,” said Edwards, a third-generation country ham producer in Surry, Va.   More... 

 

 

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In The News: (CONTINUED) / Oct 22

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