View Gallery (5 images)

These black-lip pearls are sold in Japan but come from the South Pacific, such as near the island of Palau. These are known as peacock pearls for their greenish hue. A strand like this can run 1,365,000 yen, or nearly $14,000, whereas a strand of the pale pink akoya pearls can cost closer to $2,000.

Teri Weaver / S&S

Lightbox link Lightbox link Lightbox link Lightbox link

So, let’s face it. We can’t all be Carrie Bradshaw, lying about in our pajamas playing with a tummy-tickling string of Mikimoto pearls, waiting for the man next to us to propose.

Ah, but we can dream.

And Japan is a perfect place to do a little dreaming about pearls.

Depending on whose story you follow, the country is home to the first, or some of the first, pearls ever cultivated by man.

In 1893, Kokichi Mikimoto figured out how to coax pearls out of akoya oysters. His mollusks proved so prolific that he opened Mikimoto Pearl Store in 1899, and the company has been selling lustrous strands of pearls around the world ever since, according to Aiko Shinobu, a spokeswoman for the company.

Thanks in part to Mikimoto, Japan has become known for the akoya, a white pearl famous for its pinkish tint and luster. That can be good news for a more discerning jewelry shopper who wants to invest in a small piece of Japanese jewelry.

Akoya pearls are relatively small. Mikomoto, for example, sells ones from 3 mm to 9.5 mm, according to Shinobu. That means they are relatively (we emphasize relatively) affordable. A strand might cost about $2,000, much cheaper than the bigger and rarer black-lip pearls, which can run $20,000 a strand.

But a pendant with a single akoya pearl set in silver can run around $250 at Mikimoto in Tokyo. As a keepsake from Japan, it might make an investment worth keeping.

Yes, the economy sucks. Yes, that new car payment is due. But that doesn’t mean you can’t do a little window shopping during your time in Japan. And as you do, there are some tips to keep in mind when shopping, or even when dreaming about shopping, for pearls:

size & shape

As simple as it seems, a pearl’s value really is about its size and shape. Bigger is better. And the more perfectly round, the more prized. Even some of the best pearls sold will still have very slight dents in them, Shinobu said. Those are natural and do not indicate flaws, she said. Still, experts try to build strands with pearls having as few dents as possible.

luster

Equally important is a pearl’s ability to shine. When shopping for pearls, compare different pearls or strands side by side. You should be able to tell which strand shines brighter; you should also check to make sure the pearls on a strand all shine uniformly. Another good trick is to put the strand on a flat surface and roll it; this ensures that the pearls are lustrous on all sides, not just the view from the front of the mannequin.

settings & designs

Part of the jewelry’s price also comes from the metal used – sterling, gold, white gold or platinum. The piece’s design – and let’s face it, name brand – also play a role. Be sure to ask if the piece, or a similar piece, comes in another metal. That might bring the price down.

strands

Water and humidity are bad for pearls. We know they come from the ocean. But it’s true. Sweat, perfume, makeup — it can all erode the luster of the pearl. So strands should be strung on silk threads, which help to absorb any excess liquid. But the threads are vulnerable, so take care. They should be re-strung once a year to be safe, Shinobu said. Mikimoto, for example, will re-string its customers’ strands each year for free at all stores located in Japan.

too good to be true

Real pearls should feel cool to the touch. Beyond that, Shinobu warns that it can be hard to distinguish between real and fake pearls. And, she says, it takes an expert’s eye to distinguish between prized and greatly prized pearls. "It’s even hard for the workers at the company to tell what’s good and what’s bad," she said. She recommends comparison shopping before purchasing, and taking a closer look at various items to tell a good investment from a good deal.

care

Pearl sellers like Mikimoto will provide special cloths to clean strands of pearls and pearls set in metals. The owner should put on the jewelry after perfume and makeup is on; she should carefully wipe clean the jewelry after each wearing. Other cleaning, such as polishing gold or diamonds surrounding the pearls, should be done by a professional. Pearls should be stored in a cool, dry environment, like a jewelry box. Keep pearls separate from gems as they could scratch the pearls.

kinds of pearls

Akoya

These are from Akoya oysters and grown in Japan. They have a pinkish color and are relatively small, up to 10 mm. They come in a variety of shades, though the variance does not mean a difference in quality.

Silver and gold lip

These come from silver- and gold-lip oysters from South Pacific, such as near Australia and Tahiti. They are either silver or gold because of elements in the shells.

Black lip

These are black pearls with a green luster. Harvested from black-lip oysters grown in the South Pacific, they are considered more expensive than silver- and gold-lip pearls.

Freshwater

Freshwater pearls come from oysters grown inland in places such as Japan and China. They come in different shapes, such as round, oval and baroque.

Conch

These deep pink pearls come from a queen conch, a large mollusk. These cannot be cultivated and therefore are rare and valuable.

• Email
• Print
• More...