Tübingen: Quintessential German town takes a look at the U.S.
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There are fliers circulating around Stuttgart that advertise a museum exhibit called “Culture To Go: Wie amerikan- isch ist Tübingen?” or “How American is Tübingen?”
Good question. So we took a look.
Tübingen is one of those postcard German cities. Medieval buildings, cobblestone streets, huge castle, huge church. Like Heidelberg, but not as famous. It’s close enough to Stuttgart — about 40 minutes from Kelley Barracks — for a truly quick trip and delightful place to spend a day.
For those who care how Germans view Americans, the “Culture To Go” exhibit in the Stadtmuseum in the city center provides a quick glance. It’s a small exhibit that runs through July 17 and makes a point.
“[Germans’] longing for more fun — I think that is American,” said Ute Bechdolf, director of the German-American Institute in Tübingen. “We try to show why American culture is so attractive for us.”
One room is set up as a mini-movie theater, complete with boxes of tissues and clips from tear-jerkers such as “Casablanca” and “Forrest Gump.” Another contains a pink Harley-Davidson motorcycle. There is a mannequin dressed in NBA-logo sportswear, and televisions tuned into “The Simpsons” and “Sex in the City.”
One room has a cardboard cutout of Ronald McDonald, Big Mac containers and paper cups. Stuff that Americans take for granted and at which the Germans marvel, for better or worse.
“We try not to put a judgment on that,” Bechdolf said. “That’s why we [portray] it as a cultural supermarket. We can take out what we like and leave the rest.”
The Germans do like it, she said. The United States has better TV shows, bigger stars and crazier music, according to the young Germans she has surveyed. Tübingen’s population is 85,000, with about 25,000 of them being students at the university, so there are lots of young people to survey.
The exhibit is small, takes about 10 minutes to view. The rest of the museum, which is fairly small, has a lot of artifacts that will mean little to anyone who doesn’t read German.
That leaves a visitor with lots of time to see the rest of the city. As always, one of the best places to start is the tourist information office, where free and cheap maps give the basic layout.
The picturesque market square is dominated by the stately Rathaus — or city hall. Enter the giant Stiftskirche, the Collegiate Church, which dates to the 15th century, for one of those jaw-dropping, only-in-Europe experiences. There are cobblestone streets for walking, and dozens of shops and street musicians for entertainment.
Punting boats — long, wooden boats guided by pilots using long, wooden poles — can be hired for a ride through the town on the Neckar River. Climb up to the Hohentübingen Castle for a view of the valley.
For those who get hungry, there are restaurants serving typical Swabian fare, plus cafes, bakeries and ice-coffee houses.
There’s even a McDonald’s.
On the QT ...
Directions: From Autobahn 8, take Highway B-27 south to Tübingen, about a half-hour’s drive from Kelley Barracks. Exit at Tübingen-Zentrum (center), and follow signs to “Zentrum.” The center of town is where the bridge crosses the Neckar River. The tourist information office is next to the bridge. After parking, start at the tourist office for a map and about a five-minute walk to the Stadtmuseum in the old town. Other sites are also within walking distance. German rail system connects Stuttgart and Tübingen and may be preferable to driving, since traffic can be heavy and parking tight.
Costs: Entry to the Stadtmuseum and the “Culture to Go” exhibit is 2.50 euros for adults, 1 euro for students.
Times: The Stadtmuseum is open 3-6 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday through Sunday; closed Monday. The Americana exhibit runs through July 17. The city tourist information office is open 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Monday through Friday and 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday. An information office in the market square is open 2-5 p.m. Sundays in the summer.
Food: The city has plenty of places to grab a bite to eat, including small restaurants, bakeries, doner kebab joints, crêpe shops and ice-coffee houses. Since it is a college town, there are a lot of inexpensive options.
Information: Stadtmuseum, 07071-795- 260. Tourist information office, 07071-913-60 or www.germany-tourism.de/e/city_tuebingen.html.
— Charlie Coon
