Self Help: Home Improvement Store

Mississippi Strasse 3, Hainerberg Housing Area
Mil: 335-5160
Civ: (0611) 4080-160

Overview of services and programs:

• Seven Tips on self help
• Leaky faucets
• Stopped up sinks
• Stopped up toilets
• Loose toilet seat
• Working with screws
• Painting
• Installing floor tile
• Preventing mildew in your home
• Pest control
• Rodent control
• Pigeon control
• Unwated guests – cockroaches
• Ticks
• Fleas
• Fogging or sudden black dust
• Classifciation of substances
• Explanation of the fogging effect

Seven easy self help ways to help yourself

U.S. Army Garrison Wiesbaden would like to invite you to participate in the Army Self Help program. There are many minor repairs that the average home owner would never think of having a craftsman perform when it is possible to accomplish the work on a self help basis. Not only is it cheaper, but often quicker than having to wait for an appointment. The U.S. Army is under the same opinion as the average home owner, but with a difference. The Army makes available not only the spare parts, but for most jobs, also the tools required to perform the work free of charge.

By participating in the "Self Help" program you are not only keeping your dwelling unit in a good state of repair, but also ensuring that your tax dollar goes a little bit further. We hope that the following tips will help you get the most out of the Self Help Program and the Home Improvement Store.

Tip 1: Leaky faucets

Who of us has not been kept awake with that annoying "drip, drip, drip" of a leaky faucet? The reason is that a little plastic washer that acts as a cork inside the faucet is worn. Replacing it is this simple:

1. Close the shut off valve that you will find beneath the sink of lavatory.
2. With an adjustable wrench, remove the dome nut. Do not use a pipe wrency or you will more than likely damage the chrome surface of the nut. Now the entire fauce will twist out.
3. With a screwdriver, remove the tiny screw, holding the washer in place.
4. Replace the washer with one of the same size.
5. Reassemble the faucet.

Note:

On many modern units it is even simpler, where the entire dome section is one unit and just needs replacement in its entirety. Be careful that you use the correct insert because there is a difference between hot and cold. Red = Hot. Blue = Cold.

Tip 2: Stopped up sinks

The drain on a sink can become blocked for a variety of reasons. It may simply be that food matter and other waste has collected around the drain plug. Try cleaning this first. If this doesn’t work, the obstruction is in the pipe somewhere.

In order for a bathroom plunger to develop enough suction there needs to be between five and six inches of water in the sink. If you don’t have this, run the faucet until the water is so deep.

Place the plunger over the drain inlet and compress it. Then lift it up approximately half an inch and press down again. Repeat this for several minutes. At all times, keep the rubber cup of the plunger under water. The idea is to rock the water back and forth, in the pipe and eventually knock/push the obstruction out of the way. If you are plunging a double sink, block the other drain with a wet rag, so that pressure does not escape. If the sink has an overflow opening, simply cover it.

If plunging doesn’t work, the next step is to clean out the trap. This is a shiny "U" shaped (actually "J" shaped) section of pipe directly below the sink. To clean out some traps you merely unscrew (with a wrench) a plug on the bottom, others have no plugs. On these you loosen the two ring nuts and remove the trap itself. Be sure to put a big pan or pail under the sink to catch the water that will rush out.

If you don't find an obstruction in the trap, the final thing to try is a "plumber’s snake." This is a flexible cable with a hook on one end and a turning handle on the other. A six foot snake is a good size. With the trap plug off, simply push the hook end of the snake into the pipe. Turn the handle so as the snake turns and keep pushing and turning the snake further into the pipe. Sometimes you will push the obstruction through, other times the hook will catch the obstruction and you can pull it out.

If the snake fails, then it’s time to call a plumber.

Tip 3: Stopped up toilets

The plunger is the first tools to try when a toilet is stopped up. The reason for this is to draw the obstruction, if possible, up for removal rather than forcing it further into the system, where it may cause a greater problem. If the plunger doesn’t work, use a "closet auger." This tool is very similar to a plumber's snake. It is flexible enough to follow the curves of the toilet outlet. Crank it in and pull it out several times, just as you would with a plumber’s snake.

If then you have no luck, call a plumber.

Tip 4: Loose toilet seat

This is really easy. Look behind and below the toilet bowl. You’ll see the nuts and bolts that hold the assembly. Simply tighten the nut(s) and the problem is solved. Note: Some of these nuts are made of plastic, so be careful not to strip the thread, by over tightening.

Tip 5: Working with screws

A screwed joint is stronger than a nailed joint, even though the screw may not be as long as the nail. It is also much easier to take apart. Common screw lengths range from as short as 3/16 of an inch to as long as 5 1/2 inches.

The thread of a wood screw runs from the point about two thirds of the length. The smooth space between the thread and the head is called the "Shank." The stem on which the thread twists is called the "Core." The difference in diameter between the Shank and the Core is important, since proper pre-drilling for screws produces a hole that is shank size for the piece of wood to be screwed and core size for the wood into which the screw is to be held fast.

Flat head screws are intended to be drawn tight until the head is flush with the surrounding surface, or "countersunk."

Roundhead screws are intended to be drawn tight until the shoulder compresses the surface tightly. They are often used with washers, to bring extra bearing power, especially in the case of working with softwood.

Tip 6: Painting

Walls or ceilings are handled in the same basic method, where the same general rules apply, except that you must be careful when painting walls to guard against "vertical trip" (sag) from excessive build up of paint. You can avoid this by careful distribution of each "load" of paint.

Brush vs. Roller Although rollers are the most commonly used painting tool today by both amateurs and professionals, you may prefer the brush. Brushing may eliminate the step of "framing in" around the edges and you may prefer the texture it creates, but the roller is faster, eliminates many problems with overlap marks and produces a satisfying "nobly" effect.

For standard wall painting you need:

• One 7 inch roller
• One 9 inch roller pan
• One 2 inch trim brush
• One 4 inch wall brush (optional)
• One large drop cloth

Roller Application

All areas that have been repaired or plastered must first of all be primed with a thinned application of the paint you plan to use. (Allow latex paint approximately half an hour to dry). Using a step ladder (which you can loan from the self help store) frame in the top of the walls, starting in an upper right-hand corner (left-hand if you’re a lefty). Frame in the wall near the ceiling to a depth of approximately 2 inches or more. While you’re up there, go around the entire room. It makes you feel like the job is going faster once you start rolling. Framing of widow and door frames is best done as you tackle each wall.

Pour paint into the roller pan and work the roller into it thoroughly, then apply it to your beginning corner in zigzag stokes. Always make the first stoke upwards to prevent drips.

Leave some space between the strokes, and then work the paint gently in random direction to spread it.

Finally, roll it out in a uniform direction, with a light touch to get rid of lap marks.

When a roller is loaded in the tray "rough" the paint on the wall in a "W" starting with an upward stroke.

Tip 7: Installing floor tile

Before you can lay floor tile, you must be sure that the sub-floor is perfectly smooth. The best and easiest way to do this is with an underlay. In order to use the tile most efficiently and to end up with a job that is centered in the room, follow these steps:

1. Find the center of all four walls.
2. Snap a chalk line across the room at these points. This divides the room into quarters.
3. Starting at the center point, put down a row of tiles to the wall.

A tile floor should be centered in the room, i.e. have equal borders on opposite sides. You can be sure by spacing out a cross of tiles in both directions from the center your finished product will be optically pleasing.

Preventing mildew in your home

Mildew is the common name for various molds. At first, mildew may look like tiny black, white, rust, or green spots. As it grows, mildew may appear as blotches with a fuzzy texture. Mildew grows when it has a source of oxygen, nutrients, moisture, and warmth. There are many types of mold, of which some are useful, as in the case of producing penicillin, or in the preparation of certain cheeses. Most molds are saprophytic and can obtain moisture and nutriment from fruits, vegetables, etc. A few molds are pathogenic, e.g. those which cause ringworm and other skin diseases, so it is the interest of you and your family to read on and follow the simple prevention or corrective actions suggested and protect your environment from mildew.

Standard European windows seal air tight when closed. If an apartment is not regularly aired, the apartment becomes very humid and moisture builds up around the window frames and in the upper corners of the outer walls. Excessive moisture in your apartment can be a sleeper, if ignored. Mold and mildew spores are jumping to germinate.

How can you prevent mildew?

  Keep spaces dry. Open or tip at least two windows in your apartment, per day, for a minimum of an hour. This will permit the moisture build up from cooking, showering, and the air that we exhale to escape. In addition, it will permit your heating radiators to function more efficiently. Humid air does not distribute heat effectively due to the lack of oxygen.

How do you remove mildew?

  Chlorine bleach, alcohol, ammonia, and pine based cleaners will help remove mildew. Each must be used separately and according to label instructions. Never mix home cleaning products together. Choose the cleaner that is appropriate for the items you are cleaning.

For walls, floors, and other hard surfaces, scrub with an all purpose household cleaner. Rinse thoroughly. Prevent further mildew growth by wiping with a solution of 1/2 cup of liquid household bleach to a gallon of water. Be sure to observe safety precautions – wear rubber gloves and eye protection. Rinse with clear water and wipe as dry as possible. Minimize water use on woods and drywall.

Try the following steps for upholstered items such as chairs, sofas, and mattresses that cannot be machine washed but are not soaked through the stuffing, and just have mildew starting on the surface because of dampness.

1. Brush the mildew off the item’s surface outdoors, or vacuum it off. (Immediately throw away the vacuum bag containing the mold.)
2. Sponge off the item with a cloth dipped in detergent solution or household cleaner and water. Do not use bleach – it may damage colors.
3. Rinse off detergent by sponging again with a clean cloth dipped in clean water.
4. Quickly pat with dry towels to absorb moisture. Use a fan to blow dry air on the item.
5. (Optional) Sponge with an alcohol cleaner that evaporates quickly. Remember that fabric dyes are not guaranteed colorfast to any of the cleaners that can help control mildew.

A Guide to Pest Control

• Rodent control

  Rats and mice are more than a nuisance; they carry some very serious diseases. Everyone should try to get rid of areas around their home where rats can live and breed and find food.

  

  Within central Europe there are two main breeds of rats

  • The roof rat, better know as the black rat, which is the predominately found rat in the Wiesbaden area.
  • The Norway rat, better know as the brown rat or wander rat, which feels better at home in sewer systems and predominately wet environments.

  Once rats have taken up residence in a facility it is difficult to get rid of them. Environmental sanitation is the best method for rodent control. Rat proofing a building and maintaining proper sanitation principles will greatly help to eliminate rats and mice.

  The most important signs of rodent infestation are

  1. Gnawing marks on wood, plastic, metal, pipes and foodstuffs.
  2. Droppings and urine stains in feeding areas.
  3. Dark grease stains from rat’s fur on pipes, shelves and other entrance holes where rats run.
  4. Tail and footprint marks in dust and debris.

  The most important factor to understand in urban rodent control is that rats look for three main factors before they take up residence:

  • Food
  • Water
  • Shelter/warmth
  If any one of the three main factors is removed, the rats will no longer consider the facility acceptable.
  

  Some Helpful Hints

1. Keep rodents out of your home. Make sure doors and windows fit tightly and are screened. Close other holes through walls with heavy gauge steel wool, galvanized metal, and steel mesh or hardware cloth. Tightly seal openings around pipes and wires where they go through walls. Rats and mice can get through very small opening.
2. Don't provide shelter near your home. Cut grass, brush, and thick bushes within 100 feet of your home. Get rid of trash, abandoned vehicles, discarded appliances and junk. Store lumber and firewood in neat stacks at least 12 inches off the ground and as far from the house as possible.
3. Don't provide food for rodents. Ensure that all household waste and discarded food stuffs are placed in acceptable trash receptacle and that the lids are kept closed. Store pet food and grains in galvanized trash cans with tightly fitting lids. Don’t leave food for pets out overnight. Feed only that which they will eat within a few minutes. Don’t place bags of household waste or anything containing foodstuffs next to trash receptacles or recycling bins.

Remember the three important factors: Food, Water, and Shelter. Remove any of these factors and rodents will no longer consider your facility as a suitable residence.

If you have any doubts or evidence that rodents have entered your facility, please call the DPW service order desk, at mil 337‑9999 or civ (0611) 705‑9999or submit an online service order on our webpage.

Cockroaches

Characteristics: Size: About 1/2 inch in length. Color: Brown. The German cockroach is recognized by the two dark longitudinal stripes on the "shield" at the front of the body under which the head is located.

The German cockroach is the most prolific breeder among all cockroaches. Each egg capsule can contain up to 40 eggs and development from egg to adult can occur in as little as 45 days.

Like all cockroaches, it is omnivorous and will eat virtually anything people will and many things we won’t. In homes, this pest will first locate itself in bathrooms and in kitchens, as close as possible to food and moisture sources. It spends about 80% of its time resting in cracks and voids. It is usually located in areas such as kitchen cabinets, dresser drawers, clothes hanging rods in closets, and bathroom vanities.

The German cockroach is much smaller than its American and Oriental counterparts. Approximately only one quarter of the size.

As such, the German cockroach can easily hide in cracks in bathroom tiles, loose furniture joints, behind electrical switches and outlets.

German Roaches used to be one of the hardest pests to control. Not only had they developed immunity to the majority of pesticide sprays, but spraying only split up the colonies and they migrated to other apartments.

Control:

Treatment of German Roaches is totally different than that of other roaches. It requires bait, which is applied in the form of a Gel, and takes persistence, patience, and sanitary conditions. The previous method of spraying only killed the adults, but as soon as the eggs in the nests hatched the infestation returned. The current materials used attract the cockroaches and they feed upon it and carry residue on their bodies back to the nests. This in turn comes in contact with the eggs and eventually both adults and eggs die. Treatment can be actually summed up in two steps: 1. Find the roaches and 2. Treat the roaches. The final result will be effective, but it takes time.

Prevention:

Just like any pest, cockroaches require three major items to survive. Food, water and a habitat. The only difference between roaches and rodents is that they are capable of surviving on very little moisture; hence the most important factors to deny them are food and a habitat. Don’t store food in basements unless it’s in air tight containers. Caulk/seal all cracks and joints in bathroom and kitchen tiles. Don’t store cardboard boxes in the basement (they are perfect breeding grounds for roaches). In general, good housekeeping will persuade cockroaches that your apartment is not suitable for them.

Ticks

Ticks are blood feeding external parasites of mammals, birds, and reptiles throughout the world. Ticks transmit the widest variety of pathogens of any blood sucking arthropod, including bacteria, rickettsiae (major conductor of Typhus, Scrub Typhus and Rocky Mountain spotted fever), and viruses.

Some human diseases currently attributed to tick-borne pathogens include Lyme disease, ehrlichiosis, babesiosis, tularemia, and tick-borne relapsing fever.

After a blood meal that engorges the female tick, she drops to the ground and lays thousands of eggs in the ground. The eggs develop; hatch and the lava climb low vegetation to look for a host. Since ticks cannot run, hop, fly or move quickly, they must climb onto an appropriate object, such as tall grass, vegetation, fences or sides of buildings to wait for a host.

When they detect vibrations and chemical cues such as host odors or exhaled carbon dioxide, they fall from their perch and hope to snag or attach onto a passing host. Usually small mammals like mice are the host for these juvenile stages.

The larvae feed and molt to become nymphs that will develop and molt to become adults. The adults, once on the host (a larger mammal), climb upwards looking for a place to attach. They will generally choose a high point on the host or a tight place, like between the skin and collar, to attach and begin feeding. Once they have fed, the whole procedure starts again.

Fleas and Ringworm

Flea is the common name given to small bloodsucking, wingless insects. Adult fleas, which feed on the blood of their hosts, are surface parasites on the skin of humans and other mammals and, less often, on birds. Fleas are found all over the world. Their eggs are laid under carpets, in the folds of tapestry, in refuse Piles, and in other places that provide safety and adequate nutrition. In 6 to 12 days the eggs hatch, becoming larvae with biting mouth parts. After a few days of voracious feeding upon organic refuse, the larvae spin cocoons and enter a pupal stage. The adult flea emerges from the cocoon in a few weeks. Adult fleas, which are slightly more than 0.3 cm (0.1 inch) long, have broad, rather flat bodies, short antennae, and piercing and sucking mouth parts.

Fogging effect and pollutant information

Sudden occurrence of black sediment in certain apartments often worries the occupants but it can also face the consulted public health authority employees and the construction experts, who have been tasked to prepare and expert opinion, with problems. Tenants and landlord or construction firms often argue about the guilty party. Often decisions are made that don’t help the problem. Based on case collection and own investigations, the Public Environmental Department’s Institute for Water, Ground and Air Hygiene (WaBoLu) has been trying for several years to clarify the causes for this phenomena, to recommend ingenious measures for the elimination and prevention of black dust sediments.

The typical hypothetical postulate: The concerned apartments are often newly-build, up-grated or renovated units that show the “fogging” phenomena during the first, possibly also during the second heating period, after move-in or change of equipment. The black coloring is only visible during the heating period typically within a few hours or days. In most cases an external black-grayish oily smudgy film occurs. The sediment is strongest at places with high air circulation, i.e. around radiators, along the wall, windows and curtains above heating sources, and in areas of reduced surface temperature, i.e. room corners.

Sometimes, the black sediments are missing in areas of concealed electrical cables and junction boxes, now and then it could occur stronger there. Areas, which were covered with furniture or pictures, are not affected. However, in case of soot through leaking chimneys, there is more even sediment mainly on horizontal surfaces. Fungus growing is mostly limited to damp wall surfaces on thermal bridges (room corners, window soffits, mainly behind cabinets and pictures!), independent from electrical cable routes, and does not occur on furniture or curtains. In some cases, fungus occurred in addition to the fogging phenomena, a dabbing test will possibly have to proof the fungus’s existence.

It is also typical that of several similarly constructed and equipped apartments only a small amount is affected. Intrigued by this, it is quickly assumed that only the occupants’ utilization habits come into question for the cause.

The phenomena "black apartments," which has already been frequently observed, is also known in literature under the term "fogging." However, based on hitherto existing findings (i.e. Wensing et al.: the phenomena of "black apartments," hazardous materials – clean air maintenance, 58 (1998), 463), conclusive causes or connections for the appearance of these dust sediment could not be determined yet. Various factors are discussed as explanation:

• Previous renovation work or new construction: in approx. 86% of the observed "fogging" cases concern renovated apartments or a new construction. The type of executed work however stands in less significant relation: painting work was done in 52% of the cases, floor work in 34% of the cases.
• Cold outer walls with thermal bridges, therefore graying effect, predominantly in the winter months
• Tilt as baffle for the dust which rises with the warm air
• Soot sources within the apartment such as cigarettes or candles or soot which enters with outside air
• Carpet floors which release fibers
• Entry of outside air dust
• Abrasion of vacuum cleaner carbon electrodes
• Chemical carpet cleaning with output of surfactants

It is especially striking yet that the phenomena occurs in at least 92% of the cases during the beginning of heating period. Characteristically is also, that it mainly happens in the winter months after renovation or moving-in.

The difficulty of the plausible explanation is that above mentioned possible influence factors also consist in other apartment without the occurrence of black walls. The course of time also differentiates. In most cases visible sediments occur within a few days or weeks, it seldom takes years.

The factors assumed to activate the phenomena are probably not specific. Materials implement for apartment renovation/construction are also commonly used, cold outer walls exist as a rule and therefore thermal bridges also exist. In a fogging situation, these become clearly visible by occurrence of graying through increased dust sediment. Candle burning or cigarette-smoke are also common, in other apartments however don’t turn into visible wall sediments within a short time. The presents of these factors are therefore not conclusive for the development of fogging.

The following description can be given as possible hypothesis: various not volatile organic compounds (SOV) in paint, lacquer, sealant, carpet and similar are brought into the inside. With the beginning of the following Fall and Winter months ventilation is decreased, building walls, especially the outer walls are getting colder, condensation descent of the not volatile organic compounds in the air increases. The SOV condensation causes the surface of the micro particles, which always exist in room air to receive a chemically modified surface condition. This contributes to an aggregation building larger particles. Increased sediment occurs in contact with room surfaces, especially where there are temperature differences. That condition can also cause electrostatic charging of plastic surfaces, which often occurs during the winter months, resulting in increased magnetism of differently loaded particles and surfaces. Turbulent flow of room air circulation (i.e. on picture frames, wall light fixtures, ceiling fixtures and similar) could, through impact effect, cause visible patterns of increased surface induction.

Since the actual cause cannot be named according to present status of knowledge, it is also not possible to give statements about the surface avoidance of fogging. So it is normally also not possible to clarify the question of "guilt," because there are also occupant specific contributions (furniture, cigarette smoke, ventilation, candles) beside the building related potential co-factors (materials, thermal bridges, air convection).

However, an attempt can be made to possible establish a relationship between a priority source and the fogging film’s main components, based on conspicuous substances/substance group.

For the analysis of surface wipe samples, which show visible dust and soot sediment (so called "fogging"), various substances/substance groups can be identified and classified:

1. Softeners: This term is used for substances such as phthalate and other dicarboxylic acid, which is used to increase utilization or quality of PVC or lacquer systems. Diethyl, benzylbutyl, Di (2-ethylhexyl) and dibutylphthalate mainly occur as phthalates. Occurrence of the softeners inside rooms is typical and indicates the further spreading of these technical substances.
2. Chemical-physical explanation models: In the past the sediments mainly consisted of soot chimneys, fire-places, candles, tobacco smoke or contamination (traffic, industry) entering with outside air. Since the fogging effects also occur without these sources, the dust sediment within the radiators, which decays through heat, was discussed as possible cause. The WaBoLu’s investigations and the LGA’s observations proof, that the phenomena is obviously released by the coincidence of various factors.

Starting point in every apartment is the existing fine dust. This fine dust is hard to control with cleaning measures to the settled (sediment) heavy dust. This (micro) fine dust, which can also not be removed through the filters of a modern vacuum cleaner, does not settle in significant amounts under air circulation conditions. Based on the existing furnishing and utilization conditions (materials, strain, air humidity, temperature) an apartment specific dust develops, which can be characterized by it’s size distribution, type, surface, humidity, chemical composition as well as possible charging. This house fine dust is not visible at first.

The knowledge, that an equipment modification or renovation preceded the fogging phenomena indicates that chemical substances also play a role. Long-chain alkanes (C16 – C25) and (high grade) alcohol (C10 – C26), phthalate and other hard to volatilize carboxylic acid or carboxylic acid ester were found as typical components.

These substances are mainly middle to hard to volatilize condensation capable organic compounds. Which means 1st: that they have not evaporated from materials within days or weeks like most solvents, but significantly slower, but are often released into the room air over several years. 2ndly: they have the feature to resettle on materials, surfaces and particles, therefore also "condense" with fine dust.

The room physical conditions change with the beginning of the heating period or force heating during a cold period. Circulation conditions change, the air flow reverses: now the air rises at the window, it drops in the depth of the room. Additional fine dust emission from resting reservoir is possible. Air humidity drops significantly, especially during low outside temperatures, which results in the reduction of the circulating fine dust humidity. The particles, which are now lighter and the faster convection speed increase the electrostatic charging through increased friction on surfaces and between the particles ("physical conditioning"). Charging balancing is additionally difficult since the electrical conductivity of dry air is also lower. Only that can cause adhesion effects between the particles among one another and the surfaces.

The overall higher room air temperature, especially the heating of surfaces that have been cool before, at a more retrograde air change result to an increased release of medium and hard to volatilize organic substances from the primary and secondary sources and their concentration in the room air. They increasingly adsorb with the existing fine dust particles, because of their tendency for condensation. Permutation of the chemical micro fine dust ("chemical conditioning") goes along with the physical surface permutation, which can reflect in the observed consistence of the sediment (oily-smeary).

The actual fogging effect, therefore dust sediment on the surface, is explained with thermal as well as electrostatic interaction with the surfaces. "Visibility" of the fine dust as black cannot significantly explained with the determined organic substances. The sediment effect is probably based on a physical phenomena. Because of the fine dust particle’s size, light is no longer reflected but "swallowed."

Conclusively it is assessed, that the occurrence of the fogging phenomena in each separate case, is depending on the physical and chemical conditioning of the apartment specific micro fine dust and the room physical conditions during the heating period.

Single examples have shown, that under the same or similar conditions the phenomena could reoccur after sediment removal. According to experience, the following measures can prevent recurrence since the type and amount of plastic containing, especially softener containing materials, build a significant basis for the phenomena, it should be considered to do without or to exchange certain furniture. Increasing too low room humidity can also lots of times prevent recurrence. Increased health risk cannot be derived from the occurrence of the fogging phenomena.

Health risks can only be derived from the level of pollution in the room air. Therefore, from a health point of view it is not necessary to get the sediments chemically analyzed, or to determine the fogging reaction of certain furniture.