SubscribeAspen always has room for one more restaurant: Soupskol winner opens in May
It’s hard to imagine that Aspen has room for more new restaurants, but many places were full during my visit over the 62nd annual Winterskol weekend (Jan. 10-13), and that was nothing compared to what it will be like for the X Games starting Thursday.
Still, more eateries are planned, such as the Square Grouper, a Cajun-focused spot that on May 10 will take over the space currently occupied by Elevation Restaurant and Bar (whose employees insist is moving to another location after it closes on March 31).
Square Grouper won the much-coveted copper kettle and bragging rights for a year at Soupskol, the soup-cooking contest that has been apart of Winterskol for ten years. Pretty impressive for an eatery that doesn’t even exist yet.
As one of the judges (dirty job, yes), I was impressed with the caliber of the soups. Fellow evaluator Susan Cross and I were tasked with slurping more than 20 entries during this event held outdoors in single-digit temperatures that Friday night, and hundreds of locals, as well as one rather inebriated Irishman looking for love, came out to judge, as well.
Cross, a native of Boston who moved to Aspen in 1991 and now serves as mountain manager for Buttermilk, had been crowned this year’s Winterskol queen the day before the judging, and she could barely get a bite in without someone wanting to get a photo of or with her (the Winterskol king, Radio Boardshop owner Travis McLain, didn’t show up, allegedly because he had, we hope legally, bagged an elk and was butchering it).
I have to be honest: as much as I did enjoy Square Grouper’s entry of “jackalope” gumbo – which was made with a sausage produced in Denver that contained rabbit, antelope, pork and habaneros – and also contained shrimp, chicken and okra and was topped with a cornbread crouton, it wasn’t my favorite. I thought the best soup was the New England clam chowder, a satiny concoction with notably fresh ingredients from Big Hoss Grill in Snowmass, and Cross, who should know from clam chowder, concurred.
Kudos also go out to Kenichi, one of the best Japanese and sushi eateries in the state, for its Dynamite Shrimp Bisque, the first word being the name and also a good descriptor for a delicate and creamy creation. Also props to Ute City, last year’s winner, which was another of mine and Cross’ picks for top honors. Their kitchen’s roasted red bell pepper bisque was fantastic.
Also, based on the number of loaded baked potato soup entries, that is the soup du jour trend of the moment. Still, the people spoke, and they loved the spicy gumbo with the “jackalope” sausage.
“We were pretty surprised, but I thought our soup was pretty unique,” said Mike Goldman, co-owner of the Square Grouper concept with his partners, Jesse Wey and chef Tom Slanga. Goldman is a bartender at longtime favorite Zane’s Tavern, one of the few true locals bars left in Aspen (along with Little Annie’s) and La Palapa above it. “It’s the recipe of our chef, Tom, and while we might not have it on the menu when we open, we’ll definitely have some kind of gumbo.”
Square Grouper also will have the other usual Cajun standards: étouffée, jambalaya, red beans and rice.
Why Cajun, though? Goldman is from Detroit. “It’s just a passion,” he says. “Other places might be doing some kind of New Orleans cuisine, but not all out. This will be very Bourbon Street, very Southern-comfort food.”
Where will the copper kettle sit until May? “Right now it’s at the house,” Goldman says. “But as soon as we’re open, it’s going to be prominently displayed.”
Kyle Wagner is the editor of the Travel and OutWest sections at The Denver Post.
