Sledding the Black Hills

By Helen Coronato
The Accidental Cowgirl

Photo by Helen Coronato

Growing up on the east coast, we had our fair share of snow days. Winter provided many opportunities for sledding, skiing and snowman building. Unfortunately, outdoor adventures only lasted for a little while due to ice and bitter cold. Despite our parents’ best efforts to bundle us up, east coast winters are notorious for runny noses, watery eyes and grey skies.

Here in the Black Hills, however, it’s a whole different ball game. With fresh snow beckoning my children to come out and play, I dutifully suited them up in snowsuits, hats, gloves, scarves and boots. I then decked myself out in the same garb. Imagine my surprise when we hit the “big hill” for some sledding fun and quickly began unpeeling our layers. With a bright sun warming each healthy hike back up the hill, it wasn’t long before we were sweating. Sweating! In the dead of winter!

Photo by Helen Coronado

Our family loves to be outdoors. Fresh air, sunshine and physical activities are among our favorite ways to connect with one another. This memory-making time used to be reserved for spring and summer. But here in the Black Hills, beautiful weather is not limited to specific seasons. We now find ourselves playing outside in the winter for hours at a time. And I mean “we”, as in my husband and other adult friends. While I remember my parents waiting in the car with the heat on while us crazy kids braved the cold, my children will remember Mom beating them down the hill on her own slide, joyfully yelling “eat my snowflakes” over her shoulder!

Wyoming is host to first-class skiing, snow tubing, snowshoeing, sledding, ice- skating and more. It is an ideal winter destination for families looking to enjoy outdoor entertainment that lasts all day long (and into the night!). Of all the wonderful surprises the Black Hills have revealed to us, her invitation to come out and play everyday has been among our favorites.  

Fresh Air and Family Fun at Pahaska Tepee

Photo by Jackie Heinert

It was a busy Saturday morning like most in our house, except this day we were going to introduce our four-year-old son to a new activity, and hopefully lifelong hobby. My husband and I both grew up Cross-Country skiing with our families in the winter, and now it was time to introduce the fun to Tyler. Our pile of gear grew bigger as we tossed in gloves, blankets and snow pants, not knowing how cold the kids might get. Being new to Wyoming, I am always looking for new family friendly activities, and when I stumbled on a website for Pahaska Tepee, a seasonal resort lodge west of Cody with Nordic ski trails, I enthusiastically researched the area.

Photo by Jackie Heinert

Would it be tolerable for a four year old? Are there restrooms? How much snow is on the ground? Are the ski trails groomed? The Pahaska website, along with the Park County Nordic ski club website filled me up with more information than I had ever hoped for. I called Sunlight Sports in Cody, and their inexpensive children’s ski rentals were too hard to pass up so we made a brief stop in Cody for coffee and skis, and even more information. Tyler had expert assistance from a store clerk and carried a brand-new pair of rental skis and boots out the door. My husband and I joked that he had would have the best gear on the trails.

The drive from Cody took nearly an hour, but that might have been because of all the dreamy photos we stopped to take. It’s no wonder that Teddy Roosevelt declared the stretch of highway between Cody and the East Gate of Yellowstone National Park "the 50 most beautiful miles in America.” With the surrounding peaks kissed lightly with new snow it was certainly breathtaking. The miles flew by as the kids excitedly counted Bighorn sheep, eagles, deer and other wildlife along the way.

Photo by Jackie Heinert

In the parking lot, we geared up slowly, mainly because of all the friendly folks strolling around and visiting with us. A bus dropped off a group who put on snowshoes and took off into the woods. Other families were sledding down a nearby hillside; their whooping and hollering was amusing.

Photo by Jackie Heinert

Once we glanced at a map and took off down the trail, tranquility set in and all we could hear was the North Fork of the Shoshone River murmuring next to us. The Park County Nordic Ski Club voluntarily grooms the trails and updates the public, and the tracks were flawless. An occasional skate skier whisked by us, but not without a greeting and the encouragement that Tyler was showing great skill. Our younger son sat snugly in a sled, bundled up and pulled smoothly along the trail. We could have gone miles (or kilometers as measured in the Nordic ski world) under the blue sky; it was so scenic and peaceful.

On a tip from my phone call to Sunlight Sports, we packed a Coleman camp stove, hot dogs, some snacks and a thermos of cocoa. It was the perfect ending to our trip, grilling our lunch and sitting on the porch of the lodge in the afternoon Wyoming sunshine.

Photo by Jackie Heinert

More Information:

There are porta-potties located at the lodge.

From Cody, it is approximately 50 miles along the North Fork Highway US-14/US-16/US-20

There is no vendor open in the winter, but picnic tables and benches are available, unless snowed under.

Trails are groomed regularly, and some trails go to Sleeping Giant ski area, which does has vendors

Lots of events such as clinics and moonlight ski/snowshoes are held regularly.

More information can be found at the following websites: 

http://www.pahaska.com

http://www.nordicskiclub.com

http://www.skisg.com 

Jackie Heinert: When Jackie Heinert and her family moved to the Bighorn Basin of Wyoming in 2012 they hit the ground running. She doesn't let having two little rambunctious boys stop her from getting out and exploring; they are finding Wyoming has no end to family friendly activities. She loves sharing their adventures and ideas, and hopes her stories help other families discover unique spots around Wyoming.

Wyoming's Luxurious Western Hotels

By Matt Gibson

If one thing can be said of Wyoming's hotels, it's that they have a character that can't be found anywhere else. Although they vary greatly in style and price, most of Wyoming's hotels have a homey western atmosphere. The hotels included in this review are no exception.

The White Buffalo Club + Cellars Restaurant
The White Buffalo Club is one of Jackson's newest luxury hotels. Opened in 2008, this hotel has one of the country's few 100% USDA Prime steakhouses, a top-notch fitness center, and a luxurious spa, which make it a difficult hotel to leave. Rooms are spacious with a unique design. I particularly enjoyed the indoor/outdoor fireplace, which can be enjoyed both in the sitting area and on the balcony.

The Cellar Restaurant is a favorite with locals and serves the best rib eye that this reviewer has ever eaten.

Snake River Lodge and Spa + Gamefish Restaurant
Set in an enormous log-style building at the base of Jackson Hole (it's one of the few hotels where you can ski to the door), the Snake River Lodge and Spa intimately mixes Wyoming's pioneer past with AAA Four-Diamond luxury sensibilities. This recently remodeled lodge's new owners have been upgrading and improving on what was already one of Teton Village's finest hotels.  Although the rooms are cozy and the spa is world-class, we most enjoyed relaxing in the outdoor hot tub -- which sits beside the heated indoor/outdoor pool -- enjoying the beverage service.

Also given a recent makeover, the hotel's Gamefish Restaurant, blends the area's western history with urban luxury. The award-winning wine list offers accompaniments for unique and savory dishes such as Braised Bison Oxtail and Miso Glazed Utah Steelhead Trout.

Old Faithful Snow Lodge + Obsidian Dining Room
Not to be mistaken with the historic Old Faithful Inn (which is closed in the winter), the Old Faithful Snow lodge is a newer, but no less impressive, log structure that stands just yards from it's predecessor and the sight that everyone goes there to see, Old Faithful. The lodge has accommodations of varying types, including cabins, and also offers snowshoe and cross-country ski rentals for those who wish to venture into the park.

As one of the few facilities for visitors in Grant Village, it's important that that the lodge offer a variety of amenities, including good food service. The largest restaurant in the lodge is the Obsedian Room. The Obsedian Room has a short, but varied, menu that caters to pretty any but the most exotic dietary requirements. The service is surprisingly fast for a restaurant of such a large size, the prices are reasonable, and the atmosphere is cozy.  I particularly enjoyed the sausage sampler plate, featuring sausages made of various kinds of local game.

Follow Roundup blogger Matt Gibson this winter as he shares the best of Wyoming’s adventures. Matt is a freelance adventure travel writer, photographer and blogger. For more adventure travel goodness, check out Matt's Blog.