Veneto: Ancient protection preserves character of walled cities
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The same sort of energy that has animated Venice for centuries flows through the Veneto region of northern Italy.
It pours over the foothills of the Dolomite Mountains, infiltrates the Brenta River and runs into small towns in the region. There, inside the walled cities, the charm and the nobility that this energy has helped create is preserved.
From the lazy hillside town of Asolo, to cosmopolitan Bassano del Grappa and enchanting Marostica, the glory of Venice is present — if only as a whisper at times. Following is a look at these three towns.
Marostica
Marostica is a timeless town still surrounded by its 14th-century walls. But it may be best known for its human chess game, or Partita a Scacchi, replayed every other year.
First played in Marostica in 1454, the Partita a Scacchi was more than a mere game of chess. The lord of the castle, Taddeo Parisio, arranged for two knights, both in love with his daughter Lionara, to vie for Lionara’s hand in marriage by playing a game of chess in the town’s main square.
This celebration, held the second weekend of September each even-numbered year, is led by more than 500 people re-enacting that original game of chess.
The essence of noble Italy still exists within the walls of Marostica, mostly in the majestic city center, the Piazza del Castello, where there is a life-size chessboard and the Castello Inferiore, or the lower castle.
A slightly steep journey to the Castello Superiore, or upper castle, where the wall extends far above the town center, reveals spectacular views of Marostica and the gentle hills beyond the city’s ancient walls.
The walls of Marostica, Bassano del Grappa and Asolo, like those in so many other walled towns throughout Europe, served for many years as a defense against invasion.
Bassano del Grappa
The epitome of cosmopolitan Italy hides in one of the region’s most scenic and historic walled towns at the foot of Monte Grappa. Even though Bassano del Grappa retains much of its small-town medieval charm, it has developed a sophisticated culture and has put a zesty spin on the Venetian lifestyle.
Similar in many ways to other towns in the Veneto region by way of history and culture, Bassano del Grappa has evolved into a lively town with a quick pulse. It draws visitors eager to eye its pottery and sample its brandy.
Yet, from the banks of the Brenta to the panoramic Viale dei Martiri, or street of the martyrs, dedicated to the resistance soldiers who died here during World War II, the city is still widely undiscovered by the international tourist population.
One of the region’s most famous artists, Andrea Palladio, left his mark on the city in the 16th century, when he designed the town bridge that stands today. Known as the Ponte degli Alpini, the bridge was named after the Alpine soldiers who crossed it to fight during World War I but is also known as the Ponte Vecchio, or the old bridge.
Wander through the city’s streets and you are likely to be seduced by the sophisticated fashion modeled in upscale shops, handcrafted ceramics or the evocative aromas wafting from stalls in Piazza Liberta and Piazza Garibaldi on market days.
The Bassanesi may appear more hurried than the locals in Asolo, but the low-key tranquility of the city’s surroundings slows the locals down long enough to pay a visit to Nardini, an 18th-century distillery and the place to see and be seen around town.
A local distillery beside Ponte degli Alpini, Nardini has been noted for more than 200 years for its production of grappa, an after-dinner drink made from distilled grape skins. It also offers pear, peach and plum versions.
The language and people of the Veneto create a passionate presence in Bassano del Grappa, setting the stage for an amorous encounter with Venetian life.
Asolo
Maybe the walls surrounding this sleepy town have helped to contain Asolo’s magical atmosphere. Situated in the foothills of the Dolomites, Asolo retains the essence of the Renaissance from its Gothic arcades to its cobblestone streets.
The past is evident in such places as La Rocca, a fortress where visitors can see Venice on a clear day, and the Castle of Queen Caterina Cornaro, ruler of the walled city from 1489-1509.
Once considered a city of artists, Asolo was inhabited by many prominent figures including Robert Browning, who dedicated a volume of his poems, “Asolando,” to the city in 1889.
The city’s history is on display at the town museum, and art enthusiasts can find paintings by local artists Lorenzo Lotto and Jacopo da Ponte at the cathedral.
If you prefer to relax and view the town from a local’s perspective, consider a stroll or bike ride through the countryside, visit weekend markets or discover products of the local craft heritage such as lace, tapestry and silk, in Asolo’s shops.
Asolo’s slow pace and gentle scenery make it an ideal place to begin a tour of the region. After a short stay in town, you will understand why the town is sometimes called the “pearl” of the Veneto.
Interestingly enough, the walls that once served to keep people from entering the cities of the Veneto region now invite people in to discover the treasures within.
Marissa Fabris works for the 280th Base Support Battalion in Schweinfurt, Germany, and lives in Bamberg. Travel Tales are written on a volunteer basis by Travel readers who want to share their experiences. While Stripes Travel welcomes them, we can not vouch for every fact or opinion they present.
If you go ...
Getting there: The best way to travel between these cities is by car, since Bassano del Grappa is the only one linked to the rail system and buses between the cities run infrequently. Bassano del Grappa is about 12 miles from Asolo and five miles from Marostica.
Parking:
- Asolo: Although it is possible to park in the town center during the week, there is a parking garage as you approach the town. This is the best option for market days and other busy times, and the walk to the town center from here is short.
- Bassano del Grappa: There are several parking lots outside the city’s walls but the best option is to follow Viale dei Martiri below the walls of the city to a large parking area.
- Marostica: Traffic can enter the city walls, but the best bet is to park just outside the walls in the parking area on Viale Stazione.
What to eat: Don’t miss the white asparagus in the spring and the mushrooms in the fall.
Lodging: Caserma Ederle, the Army installation in Vicenza, offers on-post lodging and is only about 16 miles from Marostica.
Markets and festivals:
- Asolo: The city’s historic center hosts a market each Saturday and an antique market the second Sunday of each month.
- Bassano del Grappa: Markets take place Thursday and Saturday mornings in Piazza Liberta, Piazza Garibaldi and the neighboring streets. The city hosts an asparagus festival in the spring, as well as an open-air opera festival during the summer.
- Marostica: The annual cherry festival and exhibition usually takes place the last Sunday of May. The Partita a Scacchi takes place the second weekend of September every other year.
Official Web sites: www.regione.veneto.it; www.comune.asolo.tv.it; www.comune.bassano.vi.it; www.comune.marostica.vi.it.
— Marissa Fabris
