Jersey: There's much more to island than cows
Less than an hour’s flight or a somewhat longer ferry ride from England or France lies an island famous for its cows.
Less famous are its 5,000 years of history, calm beaches, continental cuisine and gorgeous sunsets.
Only four miles wide and nine miles long, Jersey is part of the Channel Islands just off the coast of Normandy, France. A self-governing state, Jersey is a dependency of the British Crown: It is a British island, but is neither part of the United Kingdom nor a colony. Its link to the British commonwealth is through the British monarch, currently Queen Elizabeth II, who is the head of state.
Jersey and other Channel Islands were transferred to the English monarchy after the invasion in 1066 by William the Conqueror, who was duke of Normandy as well as king of England. Through the years, the islands were easy targets in the ongoing conflicts between Britain and France. Today, the French influence is apparent throughout the island in street names and fine food, while both English and French are easily spoken.
The history evident on Jersey begins long before Duke William. The Neolithic passage grave called La Hougue Bie was built about 5,000 years ago. Giant stones are placed vertically, with large capstones on top. Smaller stones are placed on top of the mammoth capstones and a 40-foot earthen mound completes the grave. To enter, the visitor must crouch, but inside it is high enough to stand.
As with many pagan sites, early Christian missionaries converted the burial site to a chapel. The medieval chapel built on top of the mound is an easy walk up a path. Continuing the connection to more recent history, the Germans built a lookout tower next to the chapel during their occupation in World War II.
A second burial site called Faldouet Dolmen provides an excellent view of the massive stones and the mechanics used to build the graves. The stone passage and capstone are intact, but the earthen mound is no longer present. It is believed the giant stones were raised by levering them onto higher and higher piles of logs and rocks.
The oldest defensive structure still evident on the island is Mont Orgueil Castle, or Gorey Castle, named for the village below. The castle was built in stages between 1200 and 1600. Gorey Castle’s strength is still evident as it maintains a vigil atop a cliff overlooking Gorey Harbor.
The castle is mostly bare walls, but is in good condition. Steps are easy to maneuver, and lead into the towers covered by concrete bunkers, used by the Nazis from 1940-45. From the top on a clear day, you can see the coast of Normandy.
Below the castle, pastel Victorian-style buildings surround the harbor. The buildings are reflected in the still waters, broken only by the passing of recreation watercraft. The village has a number of excellent restaurants — seafood and veal are local delicacies.
The other castle on Jersey is called Elizabeth Castle, built by Sir Walter Raleigh when he was governor of the island around 1600 and named for Elizabeth I. This castle is reached by a causeway at low tide and surrounded by water for seven hours out of every 12, drowning many soldiers coming back from a late night in town.
The site was originally an abbey for St. Helier, an early Christian killed by Vikings in 555. A one-room chapel built into the side of a large rock remains as evidence of St. Helier’s hermitage.
The castle is well-preserved and has been designed to show the soldiers’ lives in various times from the 1600s through World War II. Living conditions were not very pleasant unless you were an officer and received individual quarters. Six to eight enlisted soldiers might share a room, two to a bed. If married, a soldier and his wife were assigned a corner bed where they could put up a blanket for a bit of privacy. The food was said to be terrible.
Again the Germans found the ready-made fortress to be useful. Several large gun batteries and gas-proof shelters were built by the Nazis during their occupation of the island. One battery has a gun left in place and on the wall above it are painted target distances for various sites within range — in German, of course.
At Elizabeth’s Castle, today’s staff members dress as 1780s gunnery officers. At noon every day, they fire a small cannon. Young visitors are invited to assist, and those speaking with American accents are referred to as “Yankee colonists.”
All around the island is evidence of past war defenses. On the south coast are the Jersey Towers. These were lookout towers placed around the island during the 18th century. The west side of the island is dotted with German bunkers.
The Channel Islands were the only British soil taken by the Germans during World War II. During a five-year occupation, the Germans controlled curfews, food, transportation and most aspects of daily life.
Using prisoners of war and slave labor from Ukrainian Russia and Central Europe, the Nazis built an underground military hospital. In the coolness below ground, few visitors will fail to be moved by the immense structure and the impact made on the lives of the islanders during the occupation.
The hospital — also known as the Jersey War Tunnels — was cut out of solid rock and took more than two years to build. The unfinished tunnels are a testament to the harsh work of building and are a dismal contrast to the whitewashed halls of the finished areas. Medical and military items of the period are exhibited.
Enlarged newspaper items, photos and decrees of occupation are also on display. Stories of making tea out of nettles and coffee out of ground acorns attest to the adaptations made by the citizens of Jersey. Two huge propellers present the story of an American plane that crashed on the island, killing all but one who was held as a POW in the hospital.
The most touching photos are enlargements of Liberation Day in the islands. It is difficult to perceive living day-to-day under a hostile force, or to hear the sounds of war that reached Jersey during the D-Day invasion. The hospital and tunnels provide a glimpse into that frightening past world.
A sight not to be missed is the southwest lighthouse. Painted white and perched on top of red rocks, the lighthouse sits at the end of a causeway that can be walked over at low tide. Often secluded, the evening sunset sends rays of gold to the water below. At high tide, the waves crash together from two directions at the base of the rocks, demonstrating the tremendous power of the vast ocean.
Visitors to Jersey have many shopping choices, but the one item not to miss is a unique pottery called agateware. The owner of the Bouchet Agateware Pottery store claims the island is the only place in the world that the unique plates and jewelry are made.
Each piece is handmade from Cornish white china clay mixed with metal oxides for color. The various colors are folded together, keeping layers of color throughout the fired clay pieces. The result are finished pieces resembling the semi-precious agate stone.
For more information on the island, visit www.jtourism.com.
Lori Ann Martin is a lieutenant commander stationed in Rota, Spain.
