Venice may have a centuries-old reputation for its Carnevale traditions and rich pageantry, but it is hard to compete with the majestic papier-mâché floats, or carri, that make Viareggio’s Carnevale one of the world’s most enchanting pre-Lenten celebrations.

Once a seaman and fisherman’s village in the Tuscan province of Lucca, Viareggio’s shipbuilding industry initiated the magical design of floats that have dazzled spectators for more than a century.

In 1873, when a group of upper-class youths decided to bring Carnevale to the city streets, farmers and nobles alike found themselves celebrating side by side.

In the early years, Viareggio’s floats were built by local shipbuilders who used the same level of craftsmanship on the floats as they did on their boats.

Sculptors were credited with float design, and then carpenters and blacksmiths crafted the floats before the painters transformed them into colorful works of art, ready to sail along the sea promenade.

In 1925, Viareggio’s Carnevale was revolutionized by the debut of massive, lightweight papier-mâché floats, created by three visionaries, dubbed by the international press as papier-mâché wizards.

Today, visitors can witness Viareggio’s allegorical floats towering 65 feet above the art déco and art nouveau promenade. Each Sunday during Carnevale, these satirical interpretations of politicians and celebrities, nearly a year’s worth of craftsmanship, are brought to life with shifty eyes, moving arms and vivid colors.

While meandering through the six districts, or rioni, of Viareggio, keep an eye out for Burlammacco, the official character of Viareggio’s Carnevale identifiable by his red and white checked overalls, black cloak and clown-like image.

Just one tip for attending Viareggio’s Carnevale: remember to wear your mask.

Marissa Fabris works for the 280th Base Support Battalion in Schweinfurt, Germany, and lives in Bamberg.

If you go ...

¶ Getting there: The most convenient way to get to Viareggio is by train, although it is also easily accessible by car and bus. It is about 16 miles from Pisa, 60 from Florence and 85 from Genova.

¶ When to go: Carnevale celebrations in Viareggio begin Feb. 15, and the parades take place Feb. 16, 23 and March 2 at 3 p.m. and March 4 and 9 at 5 p.m.

¶ Lodging: Viareggio offers accommodations from resorts and hotels to vacation homes and campgrounds. Accommodations in nearby towns offer an excellent alternative to the increased rates during Carnevale season, including the Sea Pines Lodge at Camp Darby.

¶ Web site: http://www.viareggio.ilcarnevale.com/htm/index/eng/indexE.htm

— Marissa Fabris

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