Andermatt: Go off-piste at Swiss resorts
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Looking around at Switzerland’s seemingly endless mountains, it’s obvious that winter sports rule. Resorts like Zermatt, Crans-Montana, Verbier, St. Moritz and Davos are well-known to American skiers and snowboarders stationed in Europe.
But Switzerland has a secret: A quiet place that many boarders and off-piste skiers hope you will not discover.
The place is called Andermatt (pronounced Ahn-der-mott). It is a petite town, not too flashy, with a down-to- earth charm that seems modest when you drive through it. The village is surrounded by the high Alps and is bypassed by one major highway — both of which contribute to the peaceful, mostly natural Alpine environment set against some of the greatest mountain vistas imaginable.
If Adermatt were your ski buddy, he would be unpretentious with a love of nature and a predisposition for adventure. But he’d also be moody at times and given to unpredictable behavior. You’d be wise to protect yourself from being dumped on (with powder, that is).Andermatt’s big draw is the opportunity to go off piste. Perhaps this is why the lift has not been updated to the standard of other competitive resorts. Even so, Andermatt does have some really nice red and black runs off the nearby Gemsstock summit (round 9,800 feet), and an abundance of smooth, easy routes for beginners.
Besides the pistes, the Gems- stock ski area features a snow park with jumps for boarders. But it is the back country on the other side of the peak that draws surfers. I mean, a groomed park is just fine, but there are times when you want to get out and experience what the mountain has to offer.
However, you need to be prepared. In any adventure, there is a certain level of risk involved. In this case, the calm (and the rush) you get from contact with Mother Nature make it worthwhile. The beauty of the experience comes from the ultimate jaw-dropping view and the adrenaline rush from sinking into an ocean of soft snow blanketing the mountain.
That is what I experienced during a trip with the Frankfurt International Ski Club last year.
To start, the weather conditions were challenging: strong winds that nearly knocked us over and turned the snow into piercing pinpricks. We sought refuge in a restaurant, sipping cocoa and listening to the almost-gale-force winds punctuated by explosions set off by the avalanche control team clearing the summit.
Our trip captain and expert off-piste snowboarder, Pete Jones, said that spontaneous avalanches were moving just outside the official routed areas. By the time our group of mostly intermediates was ready to hit the slopes, our adrenaline was pumping as we watched the yellow avalanche lights flashing in our eyes. We made a prudent choice to stay within the marked route.
Still, the wind made it an excruciating experience to ski and board. The swirling snow blew parallel to the mountain with such force that we had to bury our faces to stop the small pieces of ice from stinging our faces and blocking our masks.
There is another side to the uncomfortable feelings you get when you are stuck in a blizzard, the responsibility for the group and the responsibility to know your level and to be prepared.
That day we learned that when a situation is dangerous, we need to be honest about our ability. Being gung-ho is not always the best option. Size up the situation and be smart enough to take it easy if the situation calls for it.
If you are faced with descending a black piste on the ski slope with low visibility and fresh powder, ask yourself the following: How many in the group are novice skiers? If everyone is an expert, ski the powder. If it’s a group of intermediates, ski the fall line and do carving turns, keeping your buddies in view. With novices, you’ll want to take it one turn at a time and keep everyone safely together. Weaker skiers can follow the stronger ones. It is part of being with a group, leading and following and — most important of all — making sure everyone is safe and together.
In their annual publication, the experts at the Frankfurt club warn that, “Fresh snow and wind is a dangerous combination. Remember the first nice day after snowfall is the most dangerous because the snow layers have had less time to bond together.” They recommend that anybody ready to try going off piste first join a ski patrol or attend ski safety camps. It is prudent to take a guide with you and carry the right equipment. Read up on current conditions and have the knowledge of what to look for in warning signs and by checking the avalanche and snow report before heading to ungroomed areas.
Remember, slopes that accumulate the best and deepest powder are often the most dangerous. Before you go off piste, ask the following: Do you see warnings about your area in the avalanche report? Were signs posted on the slope when you entered the area? Is this a traditional slide area?
Frankfurt club members also suggest that you to see if the slope is more than 30 degrees. If yes, avalanches, slabs and slides can occur.
Regular skiers develop a kind of spiritual connection with the mountains. We have heard the myth of the wise yogi at the summit who knows the secret to happiness. Perhaps searching for enlightenment is found in the journey to life’s highest peaks. Or, perhaps those feelings of completeness come from the spirit of adventure mixed with witnessing the beauty of nature.
Many of us experience an adrenaline high when we come into contact with the forces of nature. Not all experiences are comfortable, but the best are unforgettable. Trust me, that trip to Andermatt is one I will remember.
Alice Verberne is a writer and artist living in Germany. E-mail her at: Alice.verberne @web4point0.org.
Know and go ...
Getting there: It takes about eight hours to drive by car or bus to Andermatt from Frankfurt, Germany. Rail connections are also available. The train station is about 400 yards from the town center.
Getting around: Andermatt village isn’t very big. Everything is within walking distance.
The Nätschen ski area has intermediate/beginner slopes, and the Gemsstock area offers a mix of black, red and blue runs.
The lifts are just a couple of minutes’ walk for those staying in town. While we were there, many people skied to the lifts via the main road.
There is also a bus that goes to the lift from the tourist information office.
Where to stay: Compared with other European countries, Swiss accommodations are expensive but nearly always excellent, conscientiously run and hospitable. Tourist offices have lists of hotels, hostels, campsites and apartments in their area, and outside of office hours they normally have a display board on the street with details on the local hotels, often with a courtesy phone. In many cases you’ll find these boards at train stations as well. Swiss hoteliers, campsite managers and hostel staff usually speak English.
In Andermatt, you will find places clustered around the picturesque main street, Gotthardstrasse. Sonne is a cozy old wooden place at No. 76 — telephone (+41) (0)41-887-1226, fax (0)41-887-0626). The Drei Könige & Post has modern, comfortable rooms at No. 69 — (+41) (0) 41- 887-0001, fax (0)41-887-1666, hotel@3koenige.ch, www.3koenige.ch.
Lager Zgraggen has affordable dorms located on the right when leaving the train station; call (+41) (0)41-887-1658, fax (0) 41-872-02-41, or e-mail wapimmo @tic.ch for details.
Ski lifts: A two-day lift pass costs about 40 Swiss francs — around $33. Switzerland has a reputation for being expensive, but Andermatt is a good example of a cozy, village-based Swiss locale with reasonable prices. However, the inexpensive rate is reflected in the amenities. The area needs to modernize its lift system. Riding the cold metal seats on the uncovered chairlift was unpleasant. But, if you are skiing off piste, the lifts will not be much of an issue.
The winter season runs from December to April with the busiest times in early January and mid-February. The last week of March and first week of April are when you can take advantage of late snow and snap up deals on resort accommodations, since winter skiing is finished across the board by mid-April — though at higher altitudes the season extends from November to May. Year-round skiing is possible on glaciers at around 10,000 feet.
Après ski: Frankfurt International Ski Club snowboarder Pete Jones says “Like most Swiss resorts, Andermatt doesn’t do après ski as they do in Austria … but the Spycher bar (by the bridge on the corner, next to number 16 on the main street) is a popular place to meet up after a day in the snow. Later, the place to go is the Pinta, which is down the stairs in the bar opposite the Schweizerhof (No. 11 off the main street). It has a nice open fire, good music and dancing. If you are out even later (meaning you probably aren’t here for the skiing), the Gotthard is where everyone ends up. It’s just a bit farther down the road from the Pinta on the right.”
Food: Eating and drinking establishments are located in the hotels, with plenty of choice up and down the main street. Swiss cooking is firmly rooted in dairy products — cheese, milk, cream and butter. Your most memorable meals may well come from the simplest of kitchens and the most ordinary-looking of restaurants.
The local cuisine is influenced by French, German and Italian cooking while sticking close to its rural and Alpine roots. Eateries often have old-style rustic decor, with wooden beams and plenty of Swiss kitsch (cow-bells, alphorns and the like).
For more information on the resort, see www.andermatt.ch.
— Alice Verberne
