Isle of Skye: No limit on the beauty
View Gallery (3 images)
ISLE OF SKYE, Scotland — Cruising along the narrow road that connects the port of Ardvasar to our roadside campsite in Sligachan, it’s easy to imagine you’ve been transported to a far-flung mythical land.
Gentle mountain peaks flirt with misty clouds that tower above placid lochs reflecting the grandeur of the ranges. The roadside signs are printed first in the indigenous Gaelic, then in English, pointing out charming hamlets with names such as Camascross, Duisdalemore and Tarskavaig.
It’s an unhurried drive along the A852 — due not only to the primitive infrastructure but also to the hordes of recreational vehicles, campers and bicyclists inching along — and allows ample time to enjoy the Sleat region of the island.
Famous for its wildflowers that bloom alongside shrubs and pines in the untamed pastures, the area is often referred to as the “Garden of Skye.”
Summer is the high season on this Isle of Skye, and tourists from across Europe flock here to breathe the pristine mountain air, marvel at the unrivaled natural beauty and enjoy the world-class Scottish hospitality.
Alternative routes, lonely gas stations
The Isle of Skye is much like the state of Florida: it’s difficult to arrive there on the way to somewhere else; it is the destination.
And for hundreds of years, the only way to get here was via ferry.
The Caledonian-MacBrayne Ferry Service runs eight times a day from the mainland port of Mallaig, a gritty little fishing port. The 30-minute cruise provides an opportunity to exit the car and stretch your legs as the ferry crosses the Sound of Sleat on its path to Armadale Bay.
Travelers looking to save a few pounds — the ferry runs 28 pounds ($50) — can follow the A87 onto the Skye Bridge that traverses Loch Alsh and links Kyle of Lochalsh and Kyleakin.
The toll-free bridge, completed in 1995 despite fierce protest from locals that it would diminish the area’s natural beauty, connected the Isle of Skye to the mainland for the first time since the Ice Age.
No matter what path you take, be sure to fuel up at every opportunity. With a sheep population that far outnumbers the human census, there are few gas stations and running out of fuel may very well translate into the longest walk of your life for help.
A bustling village and a tough choice
The hub of activity on the island is the relatively bustling village of Portree — nestled in the Loch of Portree 34 miles from the mainland along the A87.
The village is built around a public square that connects all the roads leading out of town. Pop into a sandwich shop or even grab some Chinese take-away and enjoy a peaceful lunch in the square as scores of tourists pass by and locals attend to their business.
From there, a traveler with limited time on the island has a difficult dilemma: continue north on the A855 into the Trotternish region, where the land greets the sea with 200-foot cliffs, or travel west along the A850 to the village of Dunvegan, home to a famous castle and a restaurant ranked by several publications as one of the world’s top eateries.
The village of Uig is a nice stop-off along the northern route and from here travelers can catch the ferry to the Outer Hebrides Island, while those with a fancy for local cuisine can dine at the Three Chimney Restaurant in Dunvegan.
Pitch a tent, but carry cash
Our trip to the Isle of Skye centered on camping, and there are several loch-front sites that charge an average of 8 pounds ($14) to pitch a tent overnight, which includes use of bathrooms and showers.
But the weather in the Scottish Highlands means rain can appear over a mountaintop without warning. The best advice is to be prepared to forgo sleeping under the stars and check into one of the dozens of bed and breakfast lodges that dot the island.
And most importantly: Don’t forget plenty of storage on the digital camera, for this is a land that demands documentation.
Isle of Skye
Population: 9,232
Height of Sgurr Alasdair, the highest point on the island: 3,255 feet
Distance from Mildenhall to Portree: 610 miles
Number of music festivals held on the Isle of Skye each year in June: One
Helpful Web sites:
www.visitscotland.com
www.calmac.co.uk
www.threechimneys.co.uk
Sources: Mapquest.co.uk, 2001 British Census, Visitscotland.com
