Ljubljana: Exploring an ancient capital of ‘New Europe’
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A visit to Ljubljana gives a glimpse of the potential of “new” Europe. It’s odd to refer to a city with more than 2,000 years of history as new. But the atmosphere here is young and vibrant, drawing on the university, the international tourist scene, an effervescent bar and bistro nightlife, and a sprawling, colorful, raucous daily market.
The origins of Slovenia’s capital city are not really known. Legends weave tales of dragon slayers who, after finishing their work, decided to stay. History and archaeology refer to Illyrians and Celts. We know there was a Roman colony (what else, in this part of the Med?) during the first century B.C. Since then, Attila, the Slavs, Austria’s Hapsburg family and Napoleon all claimed ownership.
After the World Wars of the 20th century, Slovenia was part of the Federal People’s Republic of Yugoslavia. In 1991 it became the first former republic to claim independence in a nearly unanimous vote and mostly peaceful transition. In May 2004 Slovenia earned approval for accession to the European Union, a process scheduled to culminate by 2007 with conversion to the euro and disregard for passports. Given recent national votes in France and the Netherlands, let’s wait and see how that goes.
My wife and I, celebrating her liberation from another school year, wandered to Ljubljana to pass the weekend. What we found is a city that keeps calling us back. A summerlong outdoor entertainment program, the city’s 46th annual jazz festival and an ultramodern cinema megaplex that screens first-run movies in English has us planning multiple return visits.
Our first stop in the city was at the tourist information center by the Triple Bridge. There we picked up information, found useful brochures and learned details about various excursions. This is where to set up sight-seeing tours, which are available in abundance.
You can explore Ljubljana on foot, by boat, by bike, even by hot-air balloon. We opted for the two-hour walking tour, well worth the 1,500 tolarev (about $7.50).
Here are some highlights of what we saw:
♦ Presernov Square. Ljubljana’s central square, where six main streets converge at the Triple Bridge. Remarkably small and intimate, this bustling spot is where you go to see and be seen.
♦ The city’s 16th-century cathedral is routine on the inside. The most interesting feature is the bronze door, commemorating the 1996 visit of Pope John Paul II. The door recounts the history of the church in Slovenia and so moved the late pope that it merited his blessing.
♦ Dragon Bridge. Four bronze monsters guarding the corners of the span celebrate the legend of Ljubljana’s creation. Local folklore says when a virgin walks across the bridge, the dragons wag their tails. For the record, I saw no wagging.
♦ The Ljubljanica River meanders through the center of the city, crossed by a maze of bridges, each with its own charm and history. Pleasant walks along either side add tranquility to the otherwise youthful vibrancy.
♦ The impressive medieval castle gave us a superb sweeping view of the skyline, past the plains to alpine peaks. All weddings in the city are held here. During summer months, clergy can perform a wedding every five minutes. This might be a remnant of an old law requiring any man who entered the city to prove he had a home, a job and be married within two years (clearly a law passed by women).
♦ Ljubljana’s most distinguishing feature is the daily outdoor market along the Ljubljanica River. Fresh fruits and vegetables, kitchen gadgets, furniture, housewares, flowers, crafts, honey, soaps — you name it and you can find it at this sprawling, energetic market.
One unique stretch is indoors. Jammed into a long building with a façade of colonnades, shoppers find a stunning variety of foods. Choices start with breads, cheeses and pastries, followed by offers of wine and various condiments, fresh fish, meat and fruit. Finally, the nut section displays pecans, cashews, walnuts, pine nuts, hazelnuts, pistachios, peanuts and on and on. Ask for a free sample.
If all that walking and looking at food makes you tired and hungry, you are in luck. There are nice collections of bars and bistros along the river and in the medieval section of town. Most places are cozy with only a handful of tables inside. This time of year, the action is out on the promenade, tables set on the sidewalk proffering a full view of the parade of humanity. If you stay inside, keep in mind that Slovenia has not embraced the strict no-smoking laws found in Italy or Ireland.
The best and most crowded spot was Karnava Plocnik, at the south end of Presernov Square. It offered good drinks, live music and front-row seating to watch the passers-by.
The menu at the Café Romeo advertises “fusion food.” I’m not really sure what that means, but there was a satisfying variety of light fare and full meals. They offer sandwiches, fajitas, crepes, huge salads and feature an impressive drink menu. The pleasant shady setting, just off “Cobblers Bridge,” gave us a nice break from the midday sun.
And finally, my wife and I have a special weakness for Mexican food, so we tried two restaurants. Cantina Mexicana, at Knafljev prehod No. 3, has a super atmosphere, intimate and lively at the same time. The food, nachos and margaritas were better at Joe Pena’s Cantina and Bar (Cankareva cesta 6).
The city isn’t all history and eating. It also has a lot of fun things to do. Among them:
♦ The annual Ljubljana Festival runs through Aug. 18. It offers outdoor performances in ballet, opera, classical music, theater, Afro-Cuban jazz, even the once-famous Manhattan Transfer, performing today.
♦ Fans of wine shouldn’t miss Vinoteka Movia, on Mestni Square, next to the town hall. Sitting at comfortable solid oak tables, you can sample from hundreds of Slovenian wines.
♦ The city Puppet Theater has almost daily performances that kids will love. The House of Children and Art has displays, performances and workshops children will love. The Ljubjana Zoo is easy to reach and small enough for little ones, yet holds the interest of the bigger ones. Check the tourist office for details and tickets.
♦ The Kolosej Cinema at BTC Commercial Park on the east end of the city is a dream come true for movie lovers like my wife and me. It screens all movies in original language (and show mostly American films). The monstrous speaker systems, comfortable seats and cheap tickets (about $5 for first-run features) make movie-watching a pleasure. Find the schedule on their Web site or in the display case across the street from the tourist office.
♦ Walk to Tivoli Park to see the outdoor photo exhibit called Earth From Above. Not satellite pictures, these are striking images of people, nature and cities from all over the planet, taken from helicopters. The shots are close enough to feel the emotion of the people, yet distant enough to let you draw your own conclusions about the artist’s message.
Our first visit to Ljubljana was only an overnighter, but it was enough to impress. Our new summer plans include return trips to “new” Europe.
Jim Sajo is a freelance writer living in northern Italy.
Getting there: There are daily flights from all over Europe. Try easyJet for the best discount connections. Slovenia’s national airline is Adria Airways. Check its Web site for flight information.
Train connections are plentiful. You can reach Ljubljana via Venice’s Mestre station if traveling from Italy, or from Vienna or Salzburg if coming from the north.
If driving through Austria, use the Autobahn 10 through Graz, then the Autobahn 11, following signs to SLO. Ljubljana is well marked. From Italy, drive past Trieste on the A4 autostrada, then take the A1, following signs to SLO and Ljubljana.
A valid passport is required to enter Slovenia.
Where to stay: We stayed in the Park Hotel. Nestled in a quiet residential spot, this reasonably priced hotel, about $85 per night for a double, is a five-minute walk from the city center. Summer months there may not be great, as it has no air conditioning. English is spoken and credit cards accepted.
Someday, if we want to splurge, we’ll stay at the elegant and historic Grand Hotel Union. Just one block from Ljubljana’s cultural center — Presernov Square — the hotel is perfectly named, and priced to match. Both hotels give easy access to Ljubljana’s downtown.
Other notes: Called “Second Eden,” Lake Bled is about 30 miles from Ljubljana. Daily bus and train service reaches this quiet paradise in about an hour, or it is a 45-minute drive. If you have the time, spend the night at charming Pension Pletna (e-mail: pletna@bled.net) and enjoy a sumptuous meal at Okarina restaurant at Rilijeva 9 — telephone (+386) (0) 4-5741-458.
The exchange rate is about 200 tolarev to $1. Euros are accepted just about everywhere.
More information: The Ljubljana tourist center is open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
— Jim Sajo
