Maulbronn: Christmas charm will warm you
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Among the true delights of a German Christmas market are the attractive towns that host them.
Last year my family discovered the charming locale of Maulbronn and its famous Kloster, or monastery, during a visit to its Christmas market. The mix of unique Christmas items, savory food, cheery music and blinking children’s rides in the historic setting was the perfect way to catch the Christmas spirit and enjoy the crisp December weather.
Within the walls of this Kloster, the almost 100 booths of the market were positioned in the vast courtyard like a string of lights and tinsel on a Christmas tree. The spacious area kept the market from being too crowded and permitted shoppers — such as my family — to stroll at their leisure. There was plenty of room for my daughter’s stroller, and my husband enjoyed the ability to move freely between booths to comparison shop.
Many vendors were actively making and selling their wares and savories at this market, adding to the festive spirit.
My family watched in appreciation as one vendor crafted a wooden top piece slated for a toy during his live demonstration. We then quietly listened as one craftswoman explained in great detail, in German, the origins of her wooden Christmas star and laughed in merriment when the craftswoman broke into English at our daughter’s declaration of “Star, Mommy!”
The booths also included a smattering selling traditional toys, ornaments and cards and a welcome display of beautiful items for home and human.
A colorful presentation of Danish candles tempted my family, while gorgeous and reasonably priced woolen hats, gloves and scarves beckoned us with promises of warmer heads, hands and hearts. A few cleverly shaped bottles of flavored liquors or schnapps wandered into our shopping basket and some softly colored pottery bowls even provided birthday gifts for the next year.
The open-air feel of the Maulbronn market was made cozy by the local bands performing gleefully. Many merry shoppers paused in sincere admiration as musicians stood amid the booths and added cheery, bright notes to the sounds of children laughing and people talking.
Our family was pleased to join in the humming and soft singing of the familiar tunes, even if we only knew the English words to the carols! Soon the beautiful Christmas music united my family with the large groups of people lingering in the courtyard, and smiles and gleeful winks were exchanged.
Well-placed fires in the Kloster courtyard were not only gathering point for shoppers and townsfolk but also places to warm up when our noses turned pink in the crisp December air.
This was a place for serious discussions of the market wares, as well as for pleas from children asking for Spielwaren, or toys.
As the morning continued, we were delighted to find St. Nikolaus in the flesh strolling the courtyard with his wooden wagon and burlap sacks full of goodies. Our young daughter was speechless at the sight of this familiar Christmas figure and slightly puzzled when he handed her chocolates, an orange and a walnut. We assured her that these gifts were an important tradition and were an indication of her good behavior for the year.
My family was thrilled to find unique dining specialties at the Maulbronn market. A special courtyard area was dedicated to the preparation of smoked salmon fillets, and several hungry shoppers formed lines and gesturing for a particular fillet.
The array of food booths was not overwhelming, compared with other Christmas markets, but still there were sausages and Schupfnudeln, a dumpling and sauerkraut dish, beckoning any hungry person within range. The market, being located in the Swabian region, is also known for the specialty Maultaschen, or meat-filled pasta squares, and for a delicious Glühwein or spiced wine, served hot and made with local Swabian wines.
And, of course, just being within the historic walls of the monastery added to the fun of this Christmas market. The Maulbronn Kloster has been on the UNESCO World Heritage Site listing since 1993, indicating that it is a cultural and natural property of “outstanding universal value.”
The Kloster was founded in 1147 by monks from the Alsace region and was considered one of the earliest Cistercian foundations in Germany. My family noticed that there were groups exploring the monastery itself and its museum, which are open during the market and which we had previously enjoyed during a summer visit.
As the sounds of the season bounced off the massive stonewalls, we found this historic place and the lively market combined to inspire and warm our hearts as we were charmed by another German Christmas market — a truly unique experience.
Theresa McMillan Wesson is a free-lance writer living in Heidelberg, Germany. E-mail her at theresatravel@wessonality.com.
If you go ...
Maulbronn’s one-weekend-only Christmas market will be Dec. 7 and 8. Opening times are 2 to 9 p.m. Saturday and 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday.
You can find information about the town and its monastery at www.maulbronn.de. The Web site indicates a link for English information, but during a recent check it was not working. Just click on the left side for the “Kloster” link for opening times and brief info in German.
The Kloster and its museum are a special treat to visit, especially since these areas are open before the Christmas market officially opens each day.
For information about the Maulbronn Christmas market, go to www.deutscher-weihnachtszauber.com.
. This Web site does have excellent English information, available by selecting the American and British combined flags in the upper left. Then just click on the link “Christmas Markets” along the top in red and select the city of “Maulbronn.” Information about the Maulbronn market is at the bottom of that page.
Maulbronn is 45 minutes from either Heidelberg or Stuttgart. From Heidelberg, take A-5 Exit 42 and head southeast. From Stuttgart, take A-8 Exit 51 and head north. Consult a map of the region for local road details.
— Theresa McMillan Wesson
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