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Do a little research before buying jewelry for that special someone

When it comes to something for your sweetie that will make her Christmas bright, the jewelry counter is one place you can’t go wrong.

Or can you?

Despite how much you may trust the salesperson behind the jewelry counter or the reputation of the store, arming yourself with a little knowledge is still the best buying strategy.

Johnny Hung, owner of Johnny Jewelry in Hong Kong, has been selling to the military market for 30 years. He thinks a customer should do some homework when shopping for fine jewelry.

“I always advise customers, especially before they spend a lot of money on a piece of jewelry, ‘How about you study it a little bit first?’ Study whether the company is financially sound, has a good reputation. … Know the jewelry — you cannot always just listen to the salesman,” Hung said.

And try to narrow the field of possibilities.

“Some husbands come in and say they want something green. Green could be emerald. Green could be jade. Green could be tourmaline,” Hung said.

“I wish husbands can do a little homework. I believe in surprises, but ask your better half.”

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And when it comes to shopping for fine jewelry, it’s more important to deal with a jeweler who has a good reputation than the one with the best deal.

“Buy from a reputable jeweler so you get what you pay for,” recommends Raymond Ko, an AAFES concessionaire from Hong Kong who has sold jewelry on bases throughout Europe, Japan, Okinawa, Korea and Guam for 40 years.

Shay Chenoweth had only good things to say about both Hong Kong jewelers.

“They’re very reputable. We visit them when we make buys in Hong Kong. Their quality and workmanship are incredible. And they have repeat customers here on base,” said Chenoweth, buyer for Ichiban Collectibles at Naval Air Facility Atsugi, Japan.

The antique and gift shop, run by the Atsugi Officers Spouse Association, often hosts jewelry sales.

Chenoweth has even seen some military wives entrust Hung with their wedding rings.

“It takes a lot to give someone your $7,000 diamond and part with it for three weeks,” Chenoweth said. “Last week, Johnny had a woman in tears in our shop. She was so happy with the new setting for her diamond ring he came back with.”

Buying from jewelers contracted by AAFES or NEX can often take the worry out of knowing whether you are dealing with someone reputable.

“For our company, if we sell 18-karat, it will be 18-karat, not 14-karat, or else we won’t be able to get any schedule to sell with NEX,” said Ayleen Macomb, a salesperson for Dynasty Gems Inc. Her company operates a BX concession at Yokosuka Naval Base, Japan, and holds special jewelry sales twice a year in the New Sanno Hotel in Tokyo.

As added assurance, jewelry purchased from AAFES comes with a 30-day customer satisfaction guarantee. NEX customers have a 45-day satisfaction guarantee. Optional two-year protection plans are also available and include free semiannual inspections, repairs and cleaning of fine jewelry.

Diamonds from AAFES and NEX jewelry counters come with a written certificate guaranteeing quality standards as defined by the Gemological Institute of America. They also qualify for a trade-up program, which allows customers to replace their diamonds as tastes change.

“For on-base jewelry, everything is guaranteed and you can go to customer service. For off base, once you buy, it’s no return, no exchange,” said Macomb.

Hawaiian heirloom jewelry — 14-karat gold-engraved bracelets, rings, pendants and earrings personalized with a name or initials in black enamel — is popular with many of Macomb’s customers.

“For most couples in Yokosuka, if a wife orders one, she usually orders one for her husband. The husband’s ring has the wife’s name. The wife’s ring has the husband’s name,” Macomb said.

Pinky rings with initials and a pendant are popular birthday and graduation gifts for daughters, she said.

“Nobody sells that kind of jewelry in Japan but our company. It’s kind of unique,” said Macomb, referring to the jewelry that must be custom-ordered from Hawaii six to eight weeks in advance.

Pinky rings start around $40, band rings at $100 and bangles from $285.

Three different engraved designs are available: floral, bamboo and dolphins.

“Omega necklaces are a huge seller for us right now,” Chenoweth said about the flat, stiff gold necklace from Italy, which comes in 14- and 18-karat yellow or white gold and in varying widths and lengths. A reversible white and yellow gold version is also made.

The AAFES jewelry section at Yokota Air Base, Japan, was selling a 2 mm reversible white and yellow 14-karat Italian gold Omega for $429. A wider 5 mm one was priced at $749.

The necklace is named for its lasting value and attraction, Hung said.

“Omega is a Greek word that means ‘last,’ which says that this necklace is so good that it will last forever. The last piece of jewelry you’ll ever need,” said Hung.

Hung carries a selection of Omegas that cost anywhere from $180 to $500. The most popular one sells for about $200.

“Barrels and sliders” are also hot, Hung said, alluding to the barrel-shaped gemstones that slide onto the Omega. “Also, after 9/11, patriotic pieces have become more and more popular, such as red, white and blue pieces (ruby, diamond and sapphire).”

If, however, you’re looking for something that says “Asia” for your mother back in the United States, jade may be the gemstone of choice. But its quality is sometimes difficult to ascertain.

“Translucent jade with vivid green color is what you should look for. The most ideal color is called ‘apple-green’ color. However, there are too many dyed pieces in the market, so consumers have to be very careful,” said Hung.

“There’s a market in Hong Kong called the ‘Jade Market.’ Only tourists go. And there are many pieces that have been treated. When it comes to jade, don’t spend too much money. You have to be very careful.”

Hung recommends spending no more than $200 to $265 for a solid jade bangle with a 14-karat gold hinge.

“Jade is not like diamonds. You cannot grade the translucency; you have to see it in person. The older pieces are worth a lot of money these days because they didn’t have the stuff to dye it back then,” he added.

Pearls are also a great gift from Asia for females young and old on your list. And Japan is a good place to buy them.

“When people visit Japan, they buy pearls. It is like buying opal in Australia and gems in Columbia. When it comes to pearls, Japan is the place,” said Tomoe Suzuki, sales manager for Wally Yonamine Co. Inc.

The company is an exclusive pearl dealer with stores in the Roppongi district of Tokyo and Redondo Beach, Calif.

Ko explained that cultured pearls come from saltwater and are usually from Japan, whereas freshwater pearls come from the rivers of China.

“Cultured pearls are more expensive than freshwater pearls, and depending on quality, can be up to 100 percent more,” said Ko.

At the Yonamine store in Roppongi, you can find pearls not only from Japan and China, but from Australia, Tahiti and Indonesia as well.

Freshwater pearls at Yonamine start at $67, while top-quality Japanese pearls sell for $1,000 or more for a stranded necklace of 6.5 mm pinkish cream pearls. A pair of 6 mm Japanese pearl earrings starts at $50.

Suzuki recommends that you inspect pearls against a white background, as opposed to a black one, so you can see the pearls’ true color.

Many customers have come into her store asking for a “Jodie Foster necklace,” Suzuki said. That became popular after the actress wore it during a magazine interview while in Japan promoting her movie, “Contact,” about five years ago.

The strand necklace consists of small, freshwater pearls, approximately 4 to 4.5 mm, and enamel and 18-karat white or yellow gold spacers. Customers have a choice of blue, red or green spacers in the necklace.

It sells for $140. A matching bracelet costs $60.

“It is popular not only because Jodie Foster wore it but also because it suits for everyday use. Although it’s small, it has a presence,” Suzuki said.

According to the Web site of Tokyo-based Pearls Direct, there are several criteria to consider when it comes to quality of pearls.

Size, luster, surface, color, shape, rarity and matching ability should be factors. Generally speaking, the larger, the more lustrous, the smoother the surface, and the more perfectly rounded pearls are more valuable.

Limited availability and the ability to match individual pearls for side-by-side stranding or earrings will also affect value.

Johnny Jewelry’s Web site advises buyers to choose luster over color and size, as “luster is by far the most important factor in the grading of pearls.”

Both Web sites recommend that buyers select a color that best suits the wearer — for instance, lighter-colored pearls for fair complexions and darker-colored pearls for darker skin tones.

Whatever your selection — be it diamonds or pearls, gold or silver — presentation can make all the difference.

“American husbands are very romantic,” Hung said. “I was very impressed how a husband presented a ruby ring for his wife. He went back home from his TDY trip, and at the front door, his wife said, ‘Where’s my gift?’ And the husband said, ‘Kiss me.’ She refused to until she got her gift.

“But finally, the wife kissed him, and do you know where he had the ring? In his mouth,” Hung said.


Where to shop ...

Wally Yonamine Co. Inc.
5th Floor
14-8 Roppongi 7 Chome
Minato-ku, Tokyo
Phone: (03) 3402-4001 or 3403-4687
Fax: (03) 3403-4018
E-mail: yonamine@remote.ne.jp
¶ Open 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Monday through Saturday. Closed on Sundays and Japanese holidays. Individual and group appointments are recommended.

Pearls Direct
Phone or e-mail for an appointment with a salesperson in the Tokyo metropolitan area or to have your name added to their special-events mailing list.
Phone: (03)-3449-7563
E-mail: sales@epearlsdirect.com
Web: www.epearlsdirect.com

Johnny Jewelry
Shop 28, G/F
Far East Mansion Arcade
5-6 Middle Road
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Phone: (852) 2369-0569
Fax: (852) 2369-0202
E-mail: jjewlry@netvigator.com
Web: www.johnnyjewelry.com
¶ Has special jewelry sales several times a year on Okinawa, Yokosuka and Atsugi. Johnny’s jewelry can also be found at Chosun Gift Shop, Korea; Andersen Gift Shop, Guam; Marine and Kadena Gift Shops, Okinawa; Takusan Treasure, Yokosuka and Ichiban Collectibles, Atsugi.

Raymond Ko Jewelry
Rm 422,100 Nathan Rd,
Tung Ying Bldg.
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Phone: 852-2366-7144
Fax: 852-2311-3403
E-mail: info@raymondko.com
Web: www.raymondko.com
¶ Has jewelry sales monthly at one of the following installations: Atsugi, Yokosuka, Zama, Sasebo, Misawa, Iwakuni, Okinawa, Kadena; and in Guam, Europe, Korea and Italy.

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