Nikko: Fall color pops in picturesque area
By
Paul Newell
Stars and Stripes
Published: November 30, 2008
(See photos at end of story)
Japan, long known for polite culture and simple aesthetics, has a location two hours north of Tokyo with boisterous splashes of color that stand out in a way most of the nation prefers not to.
To be clear, the Nikko scene is not Shibuya on a Friday night, but rather a relaxing weekend getaway in a must-go-there-before-you-leave-Japan setting.
My wife and 2-month-old son accompanied me in a rented sedan from base — thus avoiding expensive out-of-pocket tolls! — and cruised our way toward what was said to be a magnificent explosion of foliage.
Once in Nikko, we checked into our hotel, quickly changed into warmer garb and strolled down to Central Nikko for a glimpse of the shops. We were disappointed, however, to encounter a super-sleepy village with few commercial businesses. Central Nikko is certainly pretty, but unless you like small trinkets, it’s no place to scratch a shopper’s itch. (We found out later that nearby Lake Chuzenji has lots of cool-looking storefronts.) Bummed, but not deterred, we returned to our Japanese-style hotel room where we sipped sake and melted away our workweek stress by slipping into the onsen on our private porch.
Refreshed, the next day we darted to check out one of the country’s most revered national treasures. Toshogu Shrine is a contrast to typical Japanese awareness. Sparing no amount of elaborate detail, the Toshogu complex is a campus of 17th-century buildings etched with finely painted wood carvings that decorate a bright-red finish overlaid by gold foil in many places. The shrine has many interesting elements to behold, including the Wise Three Monkeys carving that is credited for popularizing the "Hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil" adage.
A picturesque pagoda set against lush green pines is likewise a sight to behold, as are the rest of its structures. Large crowds and the decor disqualify Toshugu Shrine as a place to get one’s Zen on, though it most certainly kept our little one amused.
After watching samurai archers on horseback hit their targets, we headed for Lake Chuzenji about 12 miles from Central Nikko. My wife had one desire — see Kegon Falls before the sun set. It took us an agonizing two hours to get to the lake due to bumper-to-bumper traffic, but boy was it worth it.
Aside from a road lined with breathtaking views of the fall’s best colors, we counted our blessings as we made it to the falls just before the sun dipped behind the cascading waters. We had finally found some harmony in a day packed with large crowds and enjoyable revelations. In fact, we can’t wait to get back to Nikko this winter when the crowds are sparse and the lake and surrounding mountains promise to be covered in white.
Nikko photo gallery
Tobu Nikko Station is the center for lots of tourist activity during the autumn foliage season. Tobu Railways has train services that run from Asakusa and Shinjuku stations in Tokyo to Central Nikko. The JR Line also has a bullet train to Nikko that departs Shinagawa Station in Tokyo. Trip duration from Tokyo to Nikko varies between 1 hour, 30 miunutes to two hours.
The picturesque Daiya River runs through Central Nikko and connects Imaichi City and neighboring towns. The stream is a good place to fly fish from May to September. Japanese fishing licenses are 1,000 yen per day (about $10).
One of Toshogu Shrine's more well-known wood carvings is this photo of this charging elephant. The Toshogu site is a campus of historic 17th century buildings that have many such colorful renderings — a rarity in a country that prefers more simple, understated architecture.
One of the most famous elements of Toshogu is the Sacred Stable upon which the Wise Three Monkeys carving can be found. Also, inside a white imperial horse is cared for. The horse is a gift from New Zealand.
Sitting atop one of Toshogu Shrine's 17th-century buildings are finely-sculpted dragons.
Yomei-mon Gate is an ornate, gold foil-layered national treasure.
This 17th-century wood carving at Toshogu Shrine in Nikko is the famous Three Wise Monkeys. The wood panel conveys the idea that children should shield evil from their ears and eyes and should likewise not speak evil. It is one of Japan's most photographed attractions.
Yuba-soba is a Nikko specialty made popular by Shinto shrine monks who had strict dietary limitations. This type of soba uses tofu beancurd that are tightly rolled into a delicious hot and soupy treat.
At more than 300 feet high, Kegon Falls is Japan's most famous waterfall. The falls are located at Lake Chuzenji in Nikko National Park in Tochigi Prefecture. The falls were said to have developed after lava flows were rerouted by the Daiya River.
Beautiful foliage covers running streams of water at Kegon Falls.
Aside from the many beautiful scenes for visitors to enjoy autumn foliage or a snowy wintery view, Nikko has many places to stop and shop.
Monkeys roam the Nikko scene and there are signs asking visitors not to feed them for the danger of being bitten or scratched.
More than 1,000 visitors gathered to watch traditional horseback archery at Toshogu Shtrine in Nikko. As part of the "Sen-nin gyoretsu" celebrations at Toshogu Shrine in Nikko, three mounted samurai archers sped across a gravel path on horseback while shooting arrows at three separate targets.
Nikko-themed kokeshi dolls displayed throughout the area are often recognizable by their artistic autumn themes. The tall kokeshi doll in the center goes for 52,000 yen, roughly $520. Other kokeshi, however, go for as little as $10.
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