It's interesting that some places become famous for growing or rearing certain foods. Raspberries from Scotland. (Any soft fruit from Scotland, actually.) Yukon gold potatoes from Idaho, or Jersey royals. Blood oranges from Sicily, white asparagus from northern Germany, Cromer crab, Colchester oysters. How do these reputations arise, and how seriously should we take them?
I went to the Isle of Wight last week, a static piece of miniaturised postwar England. It's becoming better-known for its tomatoes, all of which come from the same company. This began as a co-operative some years ago but is now owned by a Portuguese conglomerate.
The tomatoes are probably the best I've tasted. Fat and crimson on spidery vines, they grow in vast glasshouses in a sunlit valley. Around a third are organic. Their flesh is firm, their skins are leathery, and their seeds bathe in delicious acid juice.
The growers take them seriously. You have to wander round the glasshouses in white overalls, wearing latex gloves so you don't spread any disease to the plants. The pickers aren't allowed to bring their own tomatoes in for lunch. The farm recycles its rainwater and uses its compost to heat the glasshouses, and sets aside a portion of land under the Conservation Grade scheme. It sells standard tomatoes to Waitrose, Sainsbury's and M&S, but also grows dozens of heritage varieties. These look amazing, pinched and pendulous or tight and tiny, in jade, bright yellows and blackish purples.
They've started a side business selling ketchup, pasta sauces and the like, all exquisite. I'd previously followed Nigel Slater in arguing that a bloody mary is best made with cartoned tomato juice, but the local stuff was so fresh and delicious, it would be perfect for it.
The Isle of Wight is so good for tomatoes, they told me, because it gets more light than anywhere else in the UK; supposedly the sea helps by reflecting light back into the air. But they haven't yet got the recognition they want for the tomatoes - one of them said they wanted the island to be as famous as Jersey is for its potatoes. Unusually for farmers, they had kind words to say about the supermarkets. Since their fruit is genuinely better than the competition's, their buyers treat them well – although I'm sure it makes a difference which supermarkets they sell to.
I think Jersey royals are overrated, as it happens, but the Isle of Wight's tomatoes richly deserve such fame as they have. The growers are working hard to bring the product greater recognition, but it isn't simply a marketing trick – the food deserves it. Which foods do you think are good enough to single out the place where they grew for special recognition?
Comments
19 June 2012 11:10AM
Rhubarb from the mysterious Rhubarb Triangle in Yorkshire? Although I think this already has a PDO . . .
19 June 2012 11:16AM
Cheese is a bit odd I think. Why can Stilton only be made in Derbyshire, Notts and Leicestershire?
19 June 2012 11:17AM
Mysterious is right - loads of rhubarb comes out, but none ever seems to go in ...
19 June 2012 11:24AM
Hmmm. I think most tomatoes picked straight off the plant taste pretty damn good, and since I don't buy tasteless tomatoes at all then I'm not sure I'm with the argument here for singling out the Isle of Wight. Their garlic's pretty good too, but then again so are other areas. The best tomatoes I've tasted are jointly from the Lady nationwide's allotment and her garden.
But here's a relevant question. That "smell" of fresh vine tomatoes doesn't, as we know, come from the fruit itself, it's from the vine stalks, which Heston Blumenthal popped into a chili the other week "for extra flavour". Given that tomatoes are part of the nightshade family, this means that the stalks and leaves may contain traces of atropine and tomatine which are, um, slightly poisonous.
19 June 2012 11:34AM
UK asparagus can't be beaten. Just delicious. Further afield, my vote for protected status goes to apricots from central Otago, New Zealand. The climate there is perfect and the fruit are absolutely delicious: juicy and fragrant. Mmmmmmmmmmm.
19 June 2012 11:40AM
Foie gras from Périgord is delicious
19 June 2012 11:42AM
Right, I'm going to exploit this opportunity to vent on the predisposition among chefs and food writers, including on the Guardian, to insist on overpriced Maldon sea salt in recipes. Sodium choloride is sodium chloride. It doesn't matter what size the crystal is before it's ground or if it's ground at all and it doesn't matter from which part of all the world's oceans it was lifted to end its billennia of circumnavigation. All that matters is that it's free from contaminants.
There. Suffolk asparagus is the best I've tasted, at least compared to the stuff transported under cellophane for a day and a half before sitting on a supermarket shelf. Floridian mangoes.
19 June 2012 11:43AM
Many tomatoes on offer are grown in water and with the aid of artificial light and with nutrients are added to the water! Hydroponic is the name for this type of horticulture. They lack taste and smell. But the plants are much more productive.
Can't beat the smell and taste of a "properly" cultivated tomato.
19 June 2012 11:44AM
Mac cheese from my mum. Delicious.
19 June 2012 11:44AM
Poland do a lovely Battery Hen for "Country Dinners".
19 June 2012 11:46AM
None, its just a branding exercise to raise prices/profits.
19 June 2012 11:47AM
Asparagus from Formby. The best there is.
19 June 2012 11:56AM
Sodium chloride is sodium chloride but table salt isn't 100% sodium chloride. It's the impurities which alter the taste, and it's not all lifted from the sea.
19 June 2012 12:02PM
Turkey Twizzlers should only be sold as such if produced within 300 km of the Bosporous.
19 June 2012 12:03PM
Its not just taste but texture. In Australia we have beautiful pink Murray river salt. Soft melting crumbly flakes......
19 June 2012 12:05PM
Australia = best cup of coffee you can get
19 June 2012 12:06PM
Iranian Caviar, Saffron & Pistachio. You just have not lived if you have not tasted Persian cuisine. Truely majestic!
19 June 2012 12:09PM
This confusing me. Isnt a Jersey potato a variety of potato? It is easily protected because both the variety and growing area can be defined (Whether it should be is a different matter I guess). What do these IoW growers want protecting? Crappy bland tomatoes are grown on the Isle of Wight as well as good tomatoes. Surely IoW tomatoes could only be protected if there was but one variety grown on the island.
Btw if the company mentioned by Thring want a bit more recognition, they might want to put together a website with a bit more pizazz. It looks like an off the shelf job from 2002.
19 June 2012 12:09PM
Oh yeah, magical salt! Containing various tiny amounts of other minerals that humans posses no taste receptors for. The magical salt from Atlantis is particularly nice.
19 June 2012 12:13PM
Isn't it something to do with Jersey being further south though? So Jersey potatoes are 'special' because they are the earliest British potato, and also they use that particular variety, I think?
On a slightly different track, Sainsburys seem to think you can only buy their 'special' Anya potatoes in Sainsburys. Which may well be the case if you don't have access to any mud.
19 June 2012 12:21PM
Strawberries from Cheddar
19 June 2012 12:24PM
I wonder just how many people can really taste the difference between tomatoes that come from the Isle of Wight and, say, Kent or Worcestershire? Not many if we are honest. What about Red Leicester from Leicestershire or from Essex?
Next thing they'll be saying you can taste the diffenrece between different types of red wine or beer.
I wonder whether this article might have been sponsored by a tomato grower from the Isle of Wight?
19 June 2012 12:29PM
Can you buy Australian coffee outside Australia?
According to the Australasian Specialist Coffee Assoc. there were only ca. 750 hectares of coffee grown in Australia in 2008. Compared to the 12 million hectares grown Worldwide that is truly a drop in the ocean.
19 June 2012 12:32PM
Danish bacon from the pigfarms of Poland, tastes better than ever. Those refrigeration lorries sure enhance the flavour.
Outstanding on the hills nothing comes finer than the lamb from Wharfedale.
19 June 2012 12:35PM
Surely not!
19 June 2012 12:38PM
Please tell me you're trolling? Those places are hell on earth.
http://action.ciwf.org.uk/ea-action/action?ea.client.id=119&ea.campaign.id=14667
19 June 2012 12:41PM
As far as I know you can't buy any of those in the EU since the Iranian banks were disconnected from the international network.
19 June 2012 12:44PM
Toadstools from my fridge.
19 June 2012 12:46PM
Damsons from the Lyth valley in the former county of Westmoreland. When in flower in spring, the trees light up the landscape.
http://www.lythdamsons.org.uk/thedamson.htmll
The fruits have a fabulous colour and flavour and make the best jam and chutney.
19 June 2012 12:47PM
Yorkshire puddings from... YORKSHIRE!
19 June 2012 12:49PM
I wondered about that as well. I love the smell of the vine stalks and for flavour, I'd quite like to try using them in soups, stews, etc. But practically everything I've ever read on the matter suggests they are poisonous and best avoided. Still, Heston seems still to be going strong, so presumably it can't be all that dangerous?
Does anyone have any good info on the safety or otherwise of cooking with tomato stalks?
19 June 2012 12:54PM
Watercress from Alresford?
The Watercress Festival
19 June 2012 12:56PM
its irony, humour.......
19 June 2012 12:57PM
What's that got to do with the price of fish? For your information, I think the fact that "the Iranian banks were disconnected from the international network" is a good thing. The proceeds of anything exported from Iran goes into the pockets of the Mullahs. What is bad for the Mullahs is good for Iranians. However, here I am only referring to the food not international trade.
19 June 2012 12:59PM
From my side of the world - Zambales mangoes, officially the sweetest in the world, with a short season of only 2-3 months but a HUGE glut as practically all the trees in the province bear fruit at the same time; and Cebu lechon, often considered the world's best roast pork.
Both from the Philippines.
19 June 2012 1:00PM
Red, pink and white cherries from Moldova
19 June 2012 1:02PM
Whoops - I see that now, especially as he goes on to talk about lamb from the hills. I was a bit hasty. Soz about that.
19 June 2012 1:03PM
Spam.
19 June 2012 1:08PM
Locally grown nettles and ramsons. They are available in abundance and completely free, yet remain underrated, probably something to do with the lack of an advertising budget.
19 June 2012 1:16PM
No, with salt triggering one of the tongue's principal taste receptors, the homeopathic quantities of impurity, if they were not to be toxic, could not possibly compete with the saltiness of salt to register.
19 June 2012 1:18PM
Good question, I'm not sure. Most of the coffee served in the cities is not locally (australian) grown but damn, the preparation is second to none. However you can get really good Queensland and northern nsw grown coffee and it's fabulous but it's not grown on anything like the scale it is in other countries.
19 June 2012 1:21PM
Like i said, it's just taste but texture
19 June 2012 1:21PM
Lincolnshire Sausages!
19 June 2012 1:21PM
My intentions were simple. Just to say you can't find them in the shop. They may be the best in the World but we cannot share your passion for them.
19 June 2012 1:23PM
Do you eat it on its own?
19 June 2012 1:28PM
They go nuts about Bluff oysters in NZ:
http://www.bluff.co.nz/oystering.html.
They taste like oysters. I think it's more about the excitement of having the first of the season, like the Beaujolais Run.
BTW that photo, it's just wrong; a greengrocer's is not a playground.
19 June 2012 1:32PM
*NOT* just taste
19 June 2012 1:43PM
I roast toms on the vine this must also be classified as cooking with them.
19 June 2012 1:49PM
I think the Feo (Ugly) tomato of Tudela is worth mentioning. They certainly are ugly, but also delicious.
http://www.embajadadelahuerta.com/2011/07/tomate-feo-de-tudela-la-parada-de-los.html
19 June 2012 1:51PM
Links please re taste receptors - you're on shaky ground as the accepted model is errant nonsense.
The levels of impurities we're talking about aren't homoeopathic - there was a piece in the Mail recently lambasting posh salt users for their devotion to a product which can contain 10% or more impurities (if I wasn't so darn hungry I'd ferret out the link)