A taste of Taos is never enough
When I told my youngest daughter we could go anywhere within reasonable driving distance for spring break, she surprised me by immediately answering, “Taos.”
The Sangre de Cristo mountains are visible from the courtyard outside of San Geronimo Church at Taos Pueblo.
She didn’t just want to revisit “the place of red willows” – she also wanted to stay in the same great lodging we had been before, Adobe & Pines Inn in Ranchos de Taos south of town, the inviting bed and breakfast owned by former restaurateurs Katherine and Louis Costabel, where breakfast is hearty enough to keep you going through lunch and possibly dinner, and the laid-back vibe means the relaxation starts the second the vehicle hits the gravel driveway.
One of the elaborate breakfasts at Adobe & Pines Inn in Taos.
First, though, we stopped for a couple of days at Ojo Caliente, which continues its extensive remodel. We stayed in one of the spacious suites at the end, which affords a bit of privacy. They have microwaves and mini-fridges tucked into the bathroom area, as well as kiva fireplaces with nice, spacious sitting areas, and after two days, it was hard to tear ourselves away from the hot springs pools, with their varied temperature and mineral-content options (included from day of arrival through day of departure, along with a stop in the steam and sauna rooms). Ojo is still working on a private Kiva Pool that will be open only to the suites at one end of the property.
Relaxing no the hammocks at Ojo Caliente.
The comfy, Southwestern-styled Artesian Restaurant was excellent – we tried the enormous breakfast burrito (get it “Christmas”-style to try both the red and green chile stews), the huevos rancheros and the vegetarian sandwiches, and also checked out the twice-daily Hatha yoga offerings ($15 per person) in the big yurt.
One of the relaxing pools at Ojo Caliente.
Yoga was one of our goals for the trip; we wanted to be as relaxed, stretched and rejuvenated as possible. Not surprisingly, there are quite a few yoga spots in Taos.
One of the day managers at Adobe & Pines, Paul Kelly, runs Ananda Yoga Studio, which offers group and private lessons. Kelly’s instruction flows from the Iyengar, Ashtanga Vinyasa and Vini methods, and the studio has classes that focus on individual styles as well as ones that meld techniques. Kelly is very into making sure that students are comfortable with the movements.
Shree Yoga Taos had a refreshing Kundalini yoga class that incorporated the asanas and meditation. It was a spacious, relaxing studio that also offers hatha yoga and yin flow, along with classes that focus on work to help with back problems and other therapeutics.
Our other goal: to eat some fabulous New Mexican food. We always stop in at Michael’s Kitchen for a long John, split in half and thickly filled with whipped cream, to go with one of their cheap, oversized diner meals.
Big, big nachos at the Alley Cantina.
Another fave: the nachos at The Alley Cantina, which sits in a 16th century adobe building, the oldest in Taos, and still has some of the original walls. It’s a quick, laid-back stop for a beer and these nachos, which are big enough for three or four people for a nice afternoon snack, piled about eight inches high and packed with salsa, sour cream, beans and jalapenos ($8), then smothered with gooey melted cheese. We also love The Love Apple for its heavenly salads (grilled peach and corn-crusted local chevre, yum).
We’re sort of over World Cup Coffee on Paseo del Pueblo norte, just as you turn to go into the Plaza. They had construction going on in front, and they seemed annoyed with us that we didn’t know that as we tried to stop by for what used to be our favorite latte. So sorry, we’re from out of town. And we stopped by another day and had just a so-so drink. Now we’ve switched our allegiance to Noula’s at Hotel La Fonda, which brews Starbucks beans and has nice people, and the lobby of La Fonda for atmosphere. So there.
The Stakeout Restaurant south of the city, near Ranchos de Taos, has fabulous views and a rich, delicious ravioli dish ($15) that will require you to hike it off the next day – it comes filled with roasted squash and pumpkin, draped in a butter, sage and pine nut sauce. The sole ($19.75) is another worthy, well-crafted dish, the fish wrapped around crab and ricotta and gussied up with hollandaise sparked by sun-dried tomatoes.
A good hiking option is just across the road, an open, easygoing area that is good for kids and dogs – fairly level, with several options. The main out-and-back heads toward the Rio Grande rim and is about a mile and a half one way, with spurs to either side to go longer. The trailhead, with a small parking lot, has a hiker sign on the highway and sits on the east side of the road as you head south from the Stakeout. Be sure to take water.
A view of the Rio Grande from a hike.
For somewhat more intensive rim hikes, you can drive the 12 miles to the Rio Grande Gorge and hike some of the 22 gorgeous miles of trails that follow along the river and rim there.
During our visit, a local mentioned that Santa Fe acts as though Taos is a day trip from the “real” attraction of New Mexico.
That’s absurd. We spent the better part of a week in Taos and could hardly tear ourselves away. And can’t wait to go back.
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