How to Change the Oil in Your Car or Truck
Changing your oil is easy. Follow these tips from an expert, and you're sure to be successful.
Feb. 19, 2009
By Richard Backus
![changing oil](https://webarchive.library.unt.edu/web/20090305001434im_/http://www.motherearthnews.com/uploadedImages/articles/online_articles/2009-02-01/oil-change.jpg) |
Use a filler spout or funnel to avoid spills when filling an engine with oil.
ISTOCKPHOTO/SKIP ODONNELL
|
Changing your own oil can be easy to do, and it’s not expensive. Regular oil changes will prolong the useful life of an engine.
RELATED CONTENT
Olive oil tastes good and is good for you. We did a taste test to see which common brands we liked ...
When your oil furnaces quits, try some home diagnoses before calling in a professional, including f...
The author and her husband have traveled across the country with their vegetable oil-burning truck....
With a few modifications, you could burn vegetable oil to power your diesel car or truck. People ac...
But if you just want to do your own oil changes to save money, consider that express oil change outlets change the oil for little more than it costs to do it yourself, usually anywhere from $25 to $40. Further, you’ll have to dispose of your old oil, something the oil-change folks do for you. It might not be worth the time or hassle to change the oil yourself. But for many people, especially those outside metro areas, the options narrow to the local garage, which will often charge $30 or more for a change. At that price, doing it yourself (typically about $20) becomes a better proposition. Plus, you'll have the satisfaction of maintaining your vehicles — and you'll know it's been done right.
Tools and Equipment
If you decide to change your car or truck oil yourself, you’ll need a few basic tools. First, you’ll need a set of ramps or a pair of jack stands and a jack. Many people find working with ramps easier, for the simple reason they require only a steady eye and a light foot on the gas to get your vehicle at working height.
Second, you’ll need an oil filter wrench. In older vehicles with lots of clearance, a strap-type wrench (basically a strap of steel that tightens around the filter when it’s pulled tight by its handle) works well. But many newer cars with tightly packaged engine and transmission assemblies require an oil filter socket wrench — basically a large, pressed-steel can that fits around the outside of the filter, turned with a 3/8-drive socket wrench and extension. The length of the extension will vary depending upon oil filter location.
Third, you’ll need the correct-sized tool to remove the oil drain plug, either a box-end combination wrench or a socket wrench. Again, ease of access will determine the correct type. I prefer a box-end wrench for the simple reason it’s easier to get good leverage for pulling a stubborn drain plug loose.
Fourth, you’ll need a good drain pan. I strongly recommend a 10- to 15-quart round, plastic oil drain pan, available at any auto parts store. Look for one with a capped drain spout for easy emptying and a screen to catch the hot drain plug when it falls from the oil pan.
Finally, you’ll want some shop rags or paper towels to wipe up the inevitable minor spills, and a plastic bag for disposing of the old oil filter. All these tools are easy to find at an auto parts store.
Steps to Changing Oil
Oil changes are best done with the engine at operating temperature, for the simple reason that hot oil flows better and, more importantly, contaminants will be in suspension in the hot oil. The downside is hot oil can burn, so a pair of leather or heavy cotton work gloves is highly recommended.
After your vehicle is up on ramps or jack stands, check to make sure it’s stable. A level concrete surface is safest; on dirt or hard pack you risk the ramps or jack stands sinking in and the vehicle falling off. If you use a jack and stands, check the owner’s manual for appropriate lifting points. Jack stands should be positioned under major frame members, which are built to take the load of the vehicle. These are typically behind and alongside the engine/transmission assembly.
Page: 1 |
2 |
3 |
Next >>