Propagate
damaged plants
after hurricane
By
Norman Winter
MSU
Horticulturist
Central Mississippi Research & Extension
Center
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It
is possible to save special plants after
they have suffered hurricane damage. If
damaged, this Baronne Prevost, a hybrid
perpetual from 1842, could be salvaged by
taking cuttings or digging it up and
transplanting it.
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After
Hurricane Katrina, words like "uprooted," "transplanted" and
"salvaged" are applied to many devastated lives, homes and
communities. They also may be applied to the landscapes
where homes once stood and where fallen trees now
lie.
Many
in the path of destruction lost plants that were significant
to them. If you find yourself wanting to save a special
plant that has been passed down for generations or one that
you just think you might have a hard time finding again,
then here are a few tips.
Division...
A
general rule of thumb is to divide perennials opposite their
season of bloom. Those that bloom in the spring or early
summer are good candidates for dividing during the next
couple of months. These can be placed in containers until
they are ready to go to their new home.
Tropical
plants like bananas, gingers, elephant ears and such
normally are divided in the spring, but are usually
resilient enough that they can be dug this time of the year.
If you try this, remember that small sprouts are easiest to
overwinter.
When
dividing clumps, try to separate them into large pieces each
having several roots.
A
cutting is any part cut from the parent plant and rooted to
form a new plant. The cutting can be from the main stem, a
lateral branch or a leaf. Cuttings are taken from the parent
plant's softwood, current season's growth or semi-hardwood
(after current season's growth has hardened.)
For
softwood cuttings, the new growth should be firm, mature and
slightly brittle. These cuttings normally are made in June,
July and August, but many plants like the hibiscus,
confederate rose or countless others still growing are
candidates for propagating in this manner.
Make
a 8- to 10-inch cutting with pruning shears or a sharp
knife. Cut about an inch below the node on a stem and make
the cut at a slant. Remove the lower half of the cutting's
foliage, but be sure to leave at least one-third of the
upper foliage to make food and enhance rooting. Always
remove flower buds.
If
possible, dip the base of the cutting in a rooting hormone
to hasten rooting. Rooting hormone is easy to find at your
garden center, but if it's not available, don't despair -
you'll probably be successful anyway.
Place
the cuttings in a pot or box filled with a moist potting mix
or sand, which is my preference. Place the cuttings at least
2 inches apart and keep moist at all times. I like to keep
the propagation box in light shade or filtered light. Most
softwood cuttings root in four to six weeks. When the roots
are one-half to three-fourth inches long, transplant to
either a permanent location or a larger container until you
are ready to move them to the landscape.
Treat
semi-hardwood cuttings the same way. These take longer to
root.
If
you feel the need to dig up a rose, hibiscus, camellia or
other shrub, it is best to do this when it is dormant.
However, it can be done now if necessary.
You
will not be able to get all of the roots when you dig the
rootball. To compensate, cut back at least 50 percent of the
foliage. I like to hand prune to maintain a pleasing shape.
With a rose bush, prune more deeply, keeping four or five
really good canes. Remember that roses are easy to propagate
by cutting.
Dig
up as large a rootball as you can handle, and place the
plant in a large container filled with a good potting mix.
Don't be afraid to prune the roots to fit in the container.
Place this container in an area with a little morning sun
and then shade. After the transplant shock is over,
gradually move the plant to more and more light. Grow like
any other container plant until you are ready to place it in
its new location.
If
you have a lot of trees down and log truck will have to be
brought into your landscape, you may have to do dig up
plants that survived to protect them from damage while the
clean-up is done.
-30-
Released:
September 15, 2005
Contact: Norman
Winter,
(601) 857-2284
Editor's
Note: Ideal publication dates of Southern Gardening columns
are within one month of their release. Editors should
examine older columns carefully for any information that
could be time sensitive.
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