Cool Season Grasses
Cool season grasses actively grow in spring and
fall, when the soil temperature is between 32 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Most
cool season grasses that presently exist in Kentucky are European in origin;
they include tall fescue, orchardgrass, timothy, and bluegrass. A few cool
season grasses are native, the most prominent of which is redtop. These grasses
are widely used for pasture/hayland renovation as well as soil and water
conservation.
Unfortunately, past agricultural trends in Kentucky have
produced a landscape dominated by fescue. Research has shown that fescue
provides very poor habitat for wildlife, and creates problems for livestock as
well. Eradication of fescue* and replacement with other cool season grasses is
beneficial for both wildlife enthusiasts and farmers alike. Financial or other
assistance for establishing cool season grasses may be available; if interested,
contact your local wildlife biologist for details.
Wildlife-friendly cool season grasses (orchardgrass,
timothy, redtop) tend to grow in clumps that provide good cover for small game
and nutritious (8-16% protein) forage for livestock while retaining enough bare
ground to allow gamebird chicks to move freely in search of food. They are an
integral part of a diverse plant community whose legumes (clover, birdsfoot
trefoil, alfalfa, partridge pea, & annual lespedezas (Korean & Kobe))
provide abundant food and which in turn attract numerous insects important to
young chicks as a source of protein in spring. Most cool season grasses are
fairly short, growing to 3-4 feet in height. They are adapted to well-drained,
fertile sites. Although they can tolerate occasional wetness, they usually
cannot survive extended periods of flooding or soil saturation. They are also
only moderately shade tolerant.
Site Preparation
Cool season grasses can be planted in spring (February –
April) or fall (mid August – September). Preliminary work such as burning*,
haying/raking, mowing*, or grazing may be necessary to eradicate thick grass
and/or reduce tall vegetation prior to actual conversion. In fact, unless a
field has been grazed or cut for hay regularly, burning will greatly aid in
establishing cool season grasses by removing thick, matted grass, thereby
resulting in a more effective treatment of the existing sod and less competition
for new seedlings. However, be advised, Kentucky does have fire laws, regulated
by the state Division of Forestry (800/866-0555). Basically, from February 15
through April 30 and from October 1 through December 15, you cannot burn within
150 feet of any woods or brushy area except between the hours of 6:00 p.m. and
6:00 a.m. local time. Prior to doing any burning you should consult with the
Division of Forestry regarding regulations and techniques. You should also
notify the local fire department and adjoining landowners.
Once such preliminary work has been completed, grassy
fields should be sprayed with Roundup herbicide (2 qts/ac in 10 gallons
water per acre plus surfactant) to kill fescue and other vegetation before
seeding. Spraying should be done 1-2 weeks prior to planting on a warm, sunny
day when vegetation is about 8 inches tall and actively growing (bright green).
Planting cool season grass into fields where row crops,
such as corn and soybeans, have recently been planted and harvested is also a
viable option. Regardless of the particular type of crop, the stubble should be
mowed fairly short prior to planting. If using this approach, be cautious of
potential residual effects of chemicals used to control weeds on the crop field
in previous years because these may kill the grass seedlings.
Seed Mixtures
Cool season grass plantings should consist of 1-2 species
of grass, together with some legumes. Seeding rates and sample mixtures are
listed at the end of this article. Note that lespedezas and partridge pea can
only be planted in spring. Be sure to include an appropriate cover crop
(temporary vegetation such as winter wheat (30 lbs/ac), spring oats (30 lbs/ac),
or annual ryegrass (5 lbs/ac)).
Planting Options
There are 3 basic ways to plant cool season grass. It can
be drilled into a herbicide-treated stand of grass, drilled into a prepared
seedbed, or broadcast seeded onto a bare seedbed. Drilling into a
herbicide-treated stand of grass is simplest, usually results in less weed
problems due to smothering by the same residual stand of grass, and eliminates
the risk of soil erosion. However, seed-to-soil contact, and subsequent
germination, may not be quite as good due to the residual stand of grass.
Drilling into a prepared seedbed will likely result in better seed-to-soil
contact and germination. However, it requires more field preparation and could
result in more weed problems due to exposure of ungerminated seeds. Also, if
planting on a slope, loose soil of a tilled seedbed could erode. Broadcast
seeding eliminates the need for a no-till drill, but also requires extensive
field preparation. In general, no-till seeding into a sprayed field is
recommended for most situations.
Planting Techniques
Cool season grasses should be planted 1/4-1/2 inch deep.
Standard no-till grass drills suitable for such plantings can be rented from
most farm stores or county Conservation Districts. As mentioned previously,
broadcast seeding onto a prepared seedbed can also be effective. In those
situations, plow, disk, and cultipack the site as necessary to prepare it. Then
use a conventional cyclone seeder, a hand-held seeder, or an ATV/pick-up mounted
seeder to plant the seed. Crisscross the field overlapping swaths and lightly
drag, roll, or cultipack the site after broadcasting to cover the seed and
enhance germination.
Lime & Fertilizer
Cool season grass plantings should be limed and
fertilized* in accordance with a soil test. Aim for a pH of about 6.5, applying
the lime several months prior to planting to allow time for it to become
incorporated into the soil. Fertilizer can be added either at the time of
planting or after seedlings have grown a few inches.
Weed Control
Control of competing vegetation usually is not much of a
problem on cool season grass stands. However, if problems do arise, several
options are available. Pursuit herbicide can be used on orchardgrass,
clover, and lespedeza to control Johnsongrass and various broadleaf plants. If
broadleaf plants are the only problem, 2,4-D herbicide can be used without
harming any grasses; however, it will kill legumes within the stand. Consult
your local wildlife biologist or county Extension agent as needed for further
guidance on the matter. Beware of limitations on herbicide rates for pasture/hayland
and land enrolled in the Conservation Reserve Program. Be sure to follow label
directions. Use of some herbicides is regulated and requires a special
restricted use permit; check with your local farm store for details. If desired,
prescribed burning may also be effective at controlling undesirable vegetation.
Maintenance
Once established, cool season grasses, like all grasses,
need to be maintained through periodic disturbance. Sometimes this may be
achieved by moderate grazing*. In other situations, they may be cut (no lower
than 6 inches) for hay*. Mowing of cool season grasses (and all grasses for that
matter) for hay should be done when they are in the early boot or seedhead stage
to capture maximum nutritional content. Unfortunately, such timing may coincide
with the peak of nesting season for many types of wildlife. Consequently, you
may wish to consider renovating some of your fields to native warm season
grasses*, most of which mature later in the year. By doing so, you can still
obtain abundant, high-quality forage from your fields without having to disturb
wildlife as much. If not being cut for hay or grazed, cool season grasses should
be maintained by prescribed burning, strip disking, or mowing on a 3 year
rotation. If desired, 15-25 foot wide strips of clover* or annual grains* can be
established around the perimeter of your cool season grass stands in preparation
for burning them at a later date.
Table 1. Cool Season Grass
Seeding Rates (Lbs/Ac)
Species |
As Part of Mix |
In Pure Stand |
Orchardgrass |
6-10 |
10-15 |
Timothy |
2-4 |
3-8 |
Redtop |
2-4 |
3-6 |
Table 2. Cool
Season Grass Mixtures (with Legumes)
Mix #1 |
Mix #2 |
Orchardgrass |
10 lbs/ac |
Timothy |
8 lbs/ac |
White Clover |
1 lb/ac |
White Clover |
1 lb/ac |
Red Clover |
4 lbs/ac |
Red Clover |
4 lbs/ac |
Korean Lespedeza |
5 lbs/ac |
Korean Lespedeza |
5 lbs/ac |
Mix #3 |
Mix #4 |
Orchardgrass |
6 lbs/ac |
Redtop |
2 lbs/ac |
Timothy |
2 lbs/ac |
Timothy |
2 lbs/ac |
White Clover |
1 lb/ac |
Koren Lespedeza |
5 lbs/ac |
Red Clover |
4 lbs/ac |
|
|
Seeding Rates for other Legumes:
(use lower rates when planting multiple legumes with the
grasses)
Kobe Lespedeza |
5-10 lbs/ac |
Partridge Pea |
5-10 lbs/ac |
Birdsfoot Trefoil |
6-12 lbs/ac |
Alfalfa |
6-12 lbs/ac |
*Related Habitat How-To references:
Note: Mention of trade names does
not constitute an endorsement of specific products. Consult your local farm
store regarding availability of equivalent herbicides.