Living Up to its Name

January 22, 2007
Enterprise, Oregon

ENTERPRISE…(3,755 alt., 1,379 pop.), living up to its name, is the bustling trade center for ranchers in the Wallowa Valley. . . — Oregon: End of the Trail, The WPA Guide, 1934

Forgive another dateline opener, but this one’s just too good to pass up: I’m sitting alone before dawn in the darkened reception lounge of the Wilderness Inn, blogging for the Big Read. This would be unremarkable, except that I’m a guest of the Ponderosa Inn across town (i.e., three blocks away). Because the Ponderosa’s wireless internet access isn’t all it might be, I shuffled through the empty streets to its sister hotel to try my luck. That’s where I found the door unlocked, the wireless impeccable and the couch beckoning. The coffee wasn’t on yet, but all the fixings were there if I felt ambitious. For somebody well-acquainted with hotels where the night clerk dozes behind an inch of bulletproof plexiglass, Oregon hospitality suits me down to the ground.

Craig Strobel shows off a traveling exhibit of Dust Bowl-era photos of local workers and families, including works by Lewis Hine, Walker Evans, and other federally-employed photographers of the 1930s. The photos are from the Wallowa County Museum archives; the exhibit is displayed at the museum and in schools, storefronts, libraries, and municipal offices in five local towns. Photo: David Kipen

But I’ve known that since yesterday, when Big Read organizer Rich Wandschneider met me at the Lewiston, Idaho, airport with a handshake like to impair my typing skills. After I put away a 1-lb. Wimpy Burger (2 counting garnish!, per the menu), Rich put the truck in gear and commenced to regale me with stories of shaking hands with old-timers who’d themselves shaken hands with Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce. Rich is the founder of Fishtrap, a literary center the envy of cities a hundred times the size of Enterprise. Fishtrap won a grant last year to do Fahrenheit 451 for the Big Read’s pilot program, and now they’re back for seconds with The Grapes of Wrath.

Bulletin — the night manager just bleared into the office and tactfully suggested that the Wilderness doesn’t open till 7. More down the road, where I hope to use the hand that shook the hand that shook Chief Joseph’s to shake the hands of Enterprise High School’s AP English class…

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