Famed as principal wintering ground for near-extinct whooping crane, refuge is on broad peninsula about 12 miles across bay northeast of Rockport. Passenger boats carrying from 25-90 people are narrated by self-taught ornithologists who will intrigue you with sightings and identifying birds along the way. Administered by U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service as refuge for protection and management of various species of wildlife inhabiting this coastal area. Some 400 species of birds-Canada geese, pintail ducks, American Widgeons, sandhill cranes, and more-have been recorded. Other inhabitants include alligators, white-tailed deer, javelina, and raccoon.

Sight-seeing, nature observation, hiking, and photography permitted along designated public-use roads, trails, and at observation towers; also picnic areas. Most rewarding time to view wildlife is Nov. through Mar., when greatest numbers of species are at refuge (including whoopers). Refuge is open daylight hours. Wildlife Interpretive Center features mounted specimens, slide show on whooping cranes, literature. Open daily 8:30 a.m. - 4:30 p.m.; closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. At refuge headquarters, about 35 miles north- east of Rockport via Texas 35 north; F.M. 774 east, and F.M. 2040 south. 361/286-3559. Admission fee.

One of the best ways to view wildlife, especially whoopers, is from boats in the Intracoastal canal. From early November through early April, boats from the Rockport Yacht Basin and Sandollar Marina cruise past tidal flats and salt marshes (where many species may be seen) into the whoopers' habitat. Fares vary.