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North Woods, Maine 2009: August 21, 2009

August 21st, 2009 by Joanne Howl
Penobscot Experimental Forest

Temperature: 81 ° F    Humidity: 100%   Wind: 4 mph    Foggy/Cloudy/light misting rain

 Dr. Jon Ranson:  

It’s amazing how different each day is, here in the North Woods.  Early this morning there was this little mist falling. Everything was kind of soft and mysterious.  Then the rain stopped and it turned awfully humid with no wind at all.  I was recording measurements and standing still, but I was covered with sweat.  I looked down and saw my shirt was soaked.  Then I noticed the most curious thing.  Near my feet were a few big rocks.  And they looked like they were sweating, too.

 Of course, rocks can’t sweat, not like you and I do. I knew that it was just condensation. The rocks had cooled off in the night and they were warming slower than the air.  The air was so moist that the dew point was really close to the temperature. Because the air around the rocks was slightly cooler it couldn’t hold as much moisture, so dew formed. As a scientist, I know all this.  But as a guy standing in the forest, hot and dripping, I liked imagining that both the rocks and I were covered in sweat. I liked feeling that bit of  kinship with the earth.  Sometimes it’s better to set logic aside and just live the experience.

The Penobscot Experimental Forest. This site is very densely populated with white pine and balsam fir.  The forest is dark, with any green out of sight high overhead and a thick litter of dry pine needles on the floor.

The Penobscot Experimental Forest. This site is very densely populated with white pine and balsam fir. The forest is dark, with any green out of sight high overhead and a thick litter of dry pine needles on the floor.

Today we started a new plot in a section of forest which is, once again, completely different than anywhere else we’ve been.  The trees are mostly balsam fir and white pine, plus a few deciduous trees here and there.  The floor is deeply covered in dry pine needles. All the green needles are high up in the top of the canopy. Everything at eye level is brown and dry. It’s dark in this forest.  Some clouds passed overhead around five in the afternoon and I actually wanted a flashlight to help me read the data sheet.

The trees are all about the same age and size here, all about 13-15 cm DBH.  It’s really dense, too.  We measured 140 trees in one 25 meter by 25 meter plot.  They are fairly small in diameter but they are tall, so that’s a lot of biomass.  Since the live branches are only at the top of the trees, the lower branches are all dead and broken off.  There are bits of branches sticking out everywhere, right at eye level.  Now I understand the safety lecture better: we’ve found the eye-poke forest.

We also found two American Chestnut trees.  They are quite small but it’s always thrilling to find a rare species.  At one time the chestnut covered about one third of the forest in the Appalachians.  They were so common, goes the story, that a squirrel could start in Maine and travel through chestnut branches all the way to Georgia without once having to put a paw on the ground.  About 1904 a fungus was introduced and the adult trees began to die.  Within a half-century adult trees were almost a thing of the past.

There are still some American Chestnuts living today.  Most of them, like the ones we found, sprout from the roots of dead trees.  The blight will kill almost all of them long before they get big enough to produce nuts. I understand that near here, in the Piscataquis Preserve, there is what is believed to be the largest stand of reproducing American Chestnuts left in existence. One tree measures 34 inches in diameter, truly an amazing thing.  These two we found would be mere twigs compared to that tree, but we’re still happy to see them.

A small American Chestnut sprouting from the roots of a dead stump.  At one time the American Chestnut comprised about 1/3 of the Appalachian forests.  Today the species is rare.  This tree will likely die of blight before it is old enough to produce nuts.  Photo by Jon Ranson.
A small American Chestnut sprouting from a dead stump. At one time the American Chestnut comprised about 1/3 of the Appalachian forests. Today the species is rare. This tree will likely die of blight before it is old enough to produce nuts.

One of our scientists, Kathleen Bergen, said she saw a huge spider running around in the woods today.  She described it as something that looked kind of like Darth Vader – really big and dark.  Everyone thought that was really cool and wished they could have seen it and maybe speciated it, too. 

When we were driving home they had their chance.  First, let me say, I had 8 people crammed in my car.  We are a car short – the tires on the one are still a problem so it can’t be driven.  We are making do the best we can, but it’s a bit chaotic.  Today, I’m up front listening to the chatter from the back and then suddenly there’s this huge commotion. Folks were scrambling and jumping.  Someone, Jeremy I think, was yelling “Catch it! Save the spider!”  Kathleen was assuring everyone that it looked just like the Darth Vader spider she’d seen in the woods.

Now, I’m okay with spiders, but I’m not big on them sharing my personal space. I kept the car on the road as six scientists pursued the spider in the back seats. I remember turning to Ross Nelson, in the passenger seat, who was sitting calmly and smiling.  I muttering something, I think about how much I hoped they caught the thing, because I knew no one wanted to experience this driver with a Darth Vader spider crawling up his back.

By the time we made it back to the hotel, the spider had saved itself by escaping the clutches of the scientifically curious as well as avoiding the driver’s deadly lead foot.  Unfortunately that means it has hidden itself somewhere in my car’s interior.  I hope it’s wise enough to find its way out tonight.  As I said, I’m really not big on sharing my personal space with spiders.

You know, it seems like there has been a lot of laughter on this trip. We’re working really hard, but we are having a good time.  In Siberia we were always joking in the woods and laughing off the hardships, but I see it happening here, too, where things are not so hard.  I think it’s the forests.  I believe there’s something about being out in the forest that is just really, really good for the soul.

North Woods, Maine 2009: August 20, 2009

August 20th, 2009 by Joanne Howl

Penobscot Experimental Forest, Baxter, ME

Temperature: 82 ° F    Humidity: 68%    Wind: 2 mph SW      Sunny

 From Dr. Ranson:

Something has been puzzling me the last few days.  We’ve been out in these woods all day every day, but we’re just not seeing much wildlife.  This is the wild North Woods, home to moose and bear – where are they? I’ve been looking and looking.  I’ve seen some crows and gulls.  I found a blue jay feather.  There have been a few chipmunks and squirrels, mostly running away from us.  But nothing else.  What gives?

Today I was working as a recorder and wondering about the wildlife.  It was hard to concentrate on my own thoughts, because my two measurers were constantly shouting numbers to me. I had to listen hard to separate their shouts from those of other measurers hollering to other recorders.  Every once in awhile, the shouting would be interrupted by ringing laughter and people calling out to each other.  Suddenly it dawned on me: tree measurement isn’t a quiet science.   We’re just plain noisy.   If I were an animal, I wouldn’t want to hang out near us, either.  I guess I can give up my fantasy of seeing North Woods fauna, but I also guess we’re probably safe for stumbling across an unsuspecting bear. Noise does have it’s positive side.  

A red squirrel on the West Tower trail in the Howland Forest.

A red squirrel on the West Tower trail in the Howland Forest.

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North Woods, Maine 2009: August 19, 2009

August 19th, 2009 by Joanne Howl
Penobscot Experimental Forest, Bradley ME
 Temp:  88 °F       Humidity 65%      Wind: 14 mph WSW        Partly Cloudy

 From Dr. Jon Ranson:

Today we worked hard at Penobscot, finishing the plot we started yesterday and then we laid out and measured another entire one-hectare plot.  I hear they made good progress in Howland, too.  So we’re on track to meet our one-plot-a-day goal.  It was a cooler and less humid today, but the mosquitoes still haven’t attacked in any fierce way.  We’re on goal and reasonably comfortable – what more could I ask for?

 We’re a bit excited over an unusual tree we found.  Yesterday we tentatively identified it as a mountain maple, Acer spicatum, which is a species that I have not seen very often before.  The field books all say these trees stay small, but this one is an unusually large specimen.  We’ve got a lot of tree expertise here, so we went back today to take another look. We all lean hard on the A. spicatum ID, but we’re a conservative group  and we won’t make claims unless we are sure we are correct.  There is some uncertainty, so we’re going to confirm with the Forest Service folks.  If it turns out to be a mountain maple, it’s quite possibly a state champion tree, or could even make national lists  – it is just that big. 

How many Ph.D.s does it take to change a tire? Paul Montesano and Jeremy Rubio doing the hard work, while other scientists help via careful observation.

How many Ph.D.s does it take to change a tire? Paul Montesano (on his knees) and Jeremy Rubio (in camo pants) perform the task, while the doctoral scientists help via careful observation.

The other bit of excitement came at the end of the day.  We were tired, so the group started to break up and head to the cars.  I followed along a bit behind the others.  When I arrived at the parking field, there was a flurry of activity.  Folks were digging in their backpacks and checking their pockets. It turns out that one of the cars had a flat tire and no one could locate the keys to that car! Just as I was opening my pack to look, the word came that the keys had been found in someone’s pocket. 

With keys finally in hand, Paul and Jeremy went right to work changing the flat.  Most of the rest of us gathered around to watch.  And yes, I guess some of us offered a bit of advice, too – why not, it’s what we do.  Pretty soon someone – maybe Paul – gently wondered aloud something about how many Ph.D.s it took to change a tire.  The embarrasing answer is none – all the Docs were standing around watching while the younger guys were doing all the work!  Well, we laughed a bit and maybe some of us watchers shuffled our feet a little bit sheepishly, but we kept watching Paul and Jeremy work.  They were doing such a fabulous job!   But I do think that – maybe – we offered a bit less advice.  We’re all smart enough to know where the real, useful talent lies! 

Speaking of smart, I’ve mentioned before that we have a really diverse group here.  I feel very lucky to work with folks with so many talents and so many different backgrounds.  I’m especially gratified to see theoretical modelers out in the forest with us.  These are the folks that develop mathematical representations of the forests and their interactions with remote sensing signals.  Their modeling work is all done indoors, on computer.  They really don’t  have to ever come to the field – it’s hard, detailed, indoor type work.  There are many theoretical modelers who rarely see a leaf.  

We’ve got five modelers here. Not because anyone said they had to come, but because they actually enjoy learning first hand about ecosystems and trees.  I’m always surprised and gratified that folks like Wenge and Guoqing, who are electrical engineers by training, want to participate on field campaigns year after year.  Likewise, Sassan Saatchi, Jeremy Rubio and Yong Wang are equally field-friendly theoretical modelers.  It’s wonderful to have them with us. They are a talented, enthusiastic group and add to our expertise.  It’s an extra bonus that they will collect data to validate their own current models as well as to help develop the best possible algorithms for DESDynI.

Theoretical modelers develop mathematical representations of the forest and its interaction with remote sensing signals. From left: Yong Wang, Jeremy Rubio, Wenge Ni-Meister and Guoqing Sun.  Not pictured: Sassan Saatchi.

Theoretical modelers develop mathematical representations of the forest and its interaction with remote sensing signals. From left: Yong Wang, Jeremy Rubio, Wenge Ni-Meister and Guoqing Sun. Not pictured: Sassan Saatchi.

Today we worked in an area of really big trees with very dense stands of small trees underneath.  We’re measuring about 600 – 800 trees per hectare. The undergrowth is all less than 10 cm, so we don’t have to measure it, thank goodness!  Some of the measured trees are huge – we  saw a white pine that had a DBH (diameter measured 4.5 feet from the ground) of 75 cm.  It was a very stately tree.  The undergrowth was so thick that I was glad to have long sleeves, even in the heat.  We had to push our way through very dense stands of hemlock, balsam fir and beech.  It was really tough going in some spots – although it smelled fantastic.  More of that natural aromatherapy. 

In case I’m making this sound like all work and no play – well, it is mostly all work.  But everyone gets along well, we’re enjoying working together and the scenery can’t be beat.  Since we are working so fast and so well, it looks like we won’t have to work the entire weekend – we may be able to get a little time off to rest and recuperate.

Don’t tell anyone yet, but I understand that some of the local crew have connections with nearby lobstermen. They are hinting that they might be able to hook us up with a bunch of absolutely fresh, big, authentic Maine lobster at a great price.  If all goes well – if we get our work done and Hurricane Bill doesn’t come knocking – I’m thinking we can put together a team-building lobster dinner out at the cabins in Howland this weekend.  Everyone needs a good local meal, right?  It sure sounds like it would beat Siberian fish soup.

North Woods, Maine 2009: August 18 2009

August 19th, 2009 by Joanne Howl

Penobscot Experimental Forest

Temp: 91 °F  (record 92 °F, 1987; average 78 °F)   Humidity:  51 %              Wind Speed 14 MPH     Partly Cloudy

 From Dr. Jon Ranson:

I’m a tired puppy right now.  We started early today and put in a long, long day.  We got a lot of measurements done. It’s delightful to be here and we are making good progress towards our goals.

The forest is very beautiful and also very diverse, with a lot of different species and a variety of sizes of trees.  Even the understory is diverse. In some areas we have open, mossy ground to walk on. In others we push through scrubby undergrowth and other places its wet enough that you can sink into muck up to your ankles. 

Dr. Wenge Ni-Meister in the Penobsot forest.  The forest is very biodiverse. In some areas the crew must literally push their way through the understory. Long sleeves help protect the arms in these conditions.

Dr. Wenge Ni-Meister in the Penobsot forest. The forest is very biodiverse. In some areas the crew must literally push their way through the understory. Long sleeves help protect the arms in these conditions.

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North Woods, Maine 2009: August 17, 2009

August 18th, 2009 by Joanne Howl

Penobscot Experimental Forest, Bradley ME

Temperature: 89 ° F     Humidity: 73%    Wind: Calm   Hazy, hot and humid

From Dr. Jon Ranson:   Greetings from Maine!  The North Woods are fabulous as always and I’m excited to be here again.  I’ve been coming to Maine for field work since 1989 so when I see these forests, it’s a little bit like coming back to a second home. 

Today was orientation day. We took time to meet each other, learn about the sites, and refresh our measuring skills. It was great to reconnect with old friends and to meet the new faces in this crowd.  And we do have a little bit of a crowd here.  About twenty six folks, give or take a few, will be with us during the next two weeks.  Some will stay only a few days, but many will be here the whole two weeks.

The North Woods: Penobscot Experimental Forest.  This is a managed forest, not wilderness, yet it is still is quite beautiful and alluring.

The North Woods: Penobscot Experimental Forest. This is a managed forest, not wilderness, yet it is still is quite beautiful and alluring.

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