General Weather Warning– Winter is here.  Short days, cold temperatures, and gusty winds have returned.  Running ground blizzard conditions, when wind churns up the snowpack and circulates it so thick that visibility may go to zero, have been common this year. Proper clothing, navigational equipment and knowledge, and flotation are neccessary!  Be prepared and know when to turn around. Snow patterns have been heavy frontal storms on weekends, with lighter snow showers on weekdays, but check your specific weather forecast for more exact predictions.

Climbing Conditions

Keyhole Route– The Keyhole Route is rated as Technical. Significant snow and ice have accumulated on the Keyhole Route and will likely remain in areas until about July 15. Avalanche hazard is Moderate to Extreme on the Trough.  Punishment from high westerly winds is common, so the Keyhole route makes for a poor winter route choice.

North Face/Cables Route– There is well-consolidated old styrofoam snow atop well-bonded thin ice in the dihedral, rating out at M2. Most of the eyebolts in the dihedral section are covered with snow. The traverse over top of the Diamond is covered by loose snow which may slide, so be careful in your assessment of this hazard.

The Loft/Clark’s Arrow– There is a lot of snow and ice on the Loft traverse, which may occasionally loosen up. Currently the Loft Waterfall offers a fair amount of ice. Keplinger’s Couloir and the traverse over to the Homestretch do slide at times, so assess carefully.

Peacock Pool Ice– Columbine Falls, the Central Smear, and other routes are in good condition for ice climbing. Spindrift accumulation is shortening the length of some routes.

Left Gully (aka Dream Weaver on Mt. Meeker) – With lots of fresh accumulated snow and wind-drifted snow, the Left Gully is a snow-slog/wallow with no ice and sometimes Extreme avalanche danger.

Lamb’s Slide–Lamb’s Slide has transformed into its winter state. New snow is consolidating on top of the glacial snow which is still very close to the surface in places.

Kiener’s Route- Snow is unavoidable on Broadway now. Kiener’s Chimney is icy and snowy, and you will find snow on the traverses.

Notch Couloir– There is Considerable avalanche hazard due to deep accumulation of snow atop ice, with some buried loose rock below unconsolidated snow.

The Diamond- The North Chimney now is in winter conditions with snow/ice and chances of High to Extreme avalanche conditions with some wet sections. The Diamond has snow on most ledges with ice in many of the crack systems. Expect winter conditions: short days, cold temperatures, and very little sun this time of year.

Smear Of Fear– This route has sublimated away two months ago. It is generally an autumn ice route.

Trail Conditions

Longs Peak Trail (to Chasm Lake or the Boulder Field) -The trail is deeply snow-covered, and from trailhead to treeline offers some great skiing right now. Please don’t ruin it by postholing without flotation. You may find skis and snowshoes available for reasonable rental rates in many Estes Park outdoor specialty stores. At treeline, the trail is no longer marked with wands from the Alpine Brook Bridge to Walter’s Corner; because this is a snow catchment area, it is particularly dangerous for route-finding. Above treeline, there are large rock cairns, but these may disappear from view during running ground blizzard conditions. Know how to navigate, and have the right tools with you; if in doubt, stay below treeline. Above treeline there is much fresh but wind-modulated snow which can be crusty at times. The slope over Peacock Pool to the Chasm Lake area is dangerous to cross; use an ice axe and crampons, and be cognizant of High to Extreme avalanche conditions.

Estes Cone Trail– The trail is snow-covered but rocky in its uppermost sections, so snowshoes are the flotation device of choice. Be careful to keep the rock cairns in sight on your descent from the summit back down to the saddle. A common but serious winter mistake is to miss the trail with its distinctive cairns on the descent, and to end up far to the north in a trail-less basin.

Twin Sisters Trail– The road to Twin Sisters Trailhead is closed 0.4 mile below the summer trailhead due to snow. The trail is snowpacked below treeline, and snowy or icy above treeline. Snowshoes are necessary but it is often too rocky for skis. Be careful on the way down to catch the transition from the Alpine Zone back into the trees, as many people lose the trail here and end up way too far to the northeast in dangerous Cheley Gorge.

Avalanche Conditions

General avalanche conditions are Low below treeline, Moderate above treeline on east and south-facing slopes, and High to Extreme on mostly south and east-facing slopes. During and immediately following storms, the avalanche rating will rise and affect all slopes that are about 20 to 50 degrees steepness. Keep in mind that these lower-angle slopes made feed into higher angle slopes that you may be climbing, so be cognizant of overall terrain features. This has been a significantly deadly season in the western North American mountains, so educate and equip yourselves appropriately before venturing into avalanche-prone terrain!

Camping

Longs Peak Campground is in winter conditions and open. The water has been turned off for the winter season. However, stream water can be obtained at the Aspen Brook, about 50’ from the south end of the Longs Peak parking lot. Please remember to treat this water. The collection of natural wood (dead or alive) is prohibited. The rate for these campsites is now $14.

Overnight Backcountry Permits Are Required For All Overnight Backcountry Use. 

We are now in the winter backcountry permit season. Backcountry permits are now free until May 1. You are required to obtain the backcountry permit and have it with you during your overnight stay; there is critical information contained which is not just regulation but which will help you to preserve the wilderness here! A self-service permit box with permits and additional information is to your right. Or, if the box is empty or you need additional information to help plan your trip, you may find permits and information at Backcountry Office (970-586-1242, open every day from 8 a.m.-4 p.m. on Highway 36 next to park headquarters or at Longs Peak Ranger Station on weekends only.) It is your responsibility to get the backcountry permit and abide by all rules. Failure to get the permit and/or abide by rules may result in citations. 

Fires

There are no backcountry campsites in the Longs Peak area that allow campfires. Fires are particularly dangerous and prone to spread during the high winter winds. You may use a camp stove in the backcountry (no “twig stoves”). Please report all fires and smoke immediately to park personnel.

Pets

Pets are prohibited in all areas of rocky mountain national park not accessible by motor vehicles, including all trails and meadows.

Dogs are predators. Dogs can chase, scare and transmit diseases to wild animals. Dogs leave behind a ‘predator’ scent typical of all wild canines like coyotes. This scent can linger in the area for long periods of time and can disrupt or alter the behavior of the native animals this park protects. Dogs can bite humans and some people are uncomfortable around dogs; park visitors should be able to enjoy native wildlife in their natural environment without disruption from other people’s pets. Pets may dig or trample fragile vegetation. Additionally, park regulations help protect your pet’s well-being; your pet could become prey for wildlife, including coyotes, mountain lions, bobcats and owls.

The nearest trail open to pets is the Lily Mountain Trail (not to be confused with Lily Lake) located about ½ mile north of Lily Lake on Highway 7. If you are here during inclement weather conditions, please consider being kind to your pet by taking him/her to the Pet Recreational Area off Highway 36 and Lake Estes in lower elevation Estes Park.

Updated Friday, January 30, 2009