Useful Links
Mt Washington Avalanche Center
Leave No Trace
White Mountain National Forest Backcountry Camping Rules
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New Hampshire's White Mountain Region is known throughout the national climbing community as a destination area. The quantity and diversity of cliffs offer climbers seemingly endless opportunities for climbing adventures. While most climbers prefer to use well-developed and user-friendly areas such as Rumney, New Hampshire still offers remote and adventurous climbing that makes this area unique. The history of rock climbing in the White Mountains dates back to 1910, and by the late 1920s, rock climbing had become a full-fledged activity. During this decade, routes were established that remain classics today, such as the North East Ridge of Pinnacle Buttress in Huntington Ravine. Not only do the White Mountains enjoy a rich history in rock climbing, but ice climbing and mixed mountaineering have origins here as well. The first successful technical climb to be recorded on the Forest was Herschel C. Parker's solo ascent of the Tuckerman Ravine Headwall in February of 1895. Winter routes now range from overhung, highly technical mixed routes to long steep snow climbs. Mt Washington's ravines have always been a focus, and continue to draw climbers wishing to try their hand at technical climbing in an alpine environment. They also serve as a training ground for those hoping to apply their skills to the world's greater ranges. From its origins, the local climbing community has been proud of local ethics and has fought hard to maintain a traditional set of ethics. Please help us to preserve the resources and climbing opportunities unique to the White Mountain National Forest.
The sport of climbing is not only a sport of tradition in the Whites; it is also a sport of inherent danger, and can result in serious injury or death if one is not cautious and prepared. The Whites are an ever-changing and unpredictable environment. Hazards on the mountains and cliffs are many and varied. Mountain weather is notoriously unpredictable, and conditions can change drastically and without warning. Clear climbing conditions can quickly become very dangerous, and climbers should always be prepared for every type of weather condition. Climbing under winter conditions can compound many of the year-round hazards, as well as present additional concerns such as avalanches. Winter conditions usually prevail for a much longer period than the calendar may lead you to believe. Visit the Mt Washington Avalanche Center for information on Tuckerman and Huntington Ravines, but remember that avalanches do occur in many other parts of the Forest. Always climb with a partner and leave your itinerary with friends or family. The Forest Service does not monitor climbs on a regular basis.
The White Mountain National Forest is open to climbing unless otherwise posted. Closures may occur due to wildlife concerns or abuse from users.
Please help us protect the resource by following low invasive techniques:
- Removable traditional protection should be used. Fixed protection may be considered when use of removable protection is impossible, impractical, or causes increased or ongoing unacceptable resource impact.
- To protect natural features, the use of mechanical or motorized devices, explosives, or chemicals for cleaning or developing climbing routes is prohibited. Hand drills and power drills are permitted for the installation of bolt protection, except in Wilderness where power drills are prohibited.
- Route cleaning is prohibited where federally-listed threatened, endangered, and sensitive species occur.
- Chipping to create foot and hand holds, gluing to stabilize features, and attaching permanent artificial handholds is prohibited.
- Installation of fixed protection, including webbing, bolts or pitons is prohibited on new climbing routes in Wilderness.
- Reduce your impacts by using traditional protection where possible, cleaning rock only when necessary and minimizing group size.
See also the Leave No trace - rock climbing guidelines. |
