About 185 million years ago, a seven-mile thick sheet of sedimentary
rocks began to buckle and fold. Wind and water wore away the softer
layers, wearing down the mountains, and creating a region of rolling
plains. Then the plains themselves were violently uplifted and
broken. The rivers that had previously rolled gently over the
plains turned into raging torrents that cut deep gorges and canyons.
One such gorge is the Smoke Hole, where the South Branch of the
Potomac River squeezes between North Mountain and Cave Mountain.
For over 20 miles the river has carved a half-mile deep canyon,
with nearly vertical walls.
The misty fog that often lies along
the river as it runs through the "hole" makes the name appropriate.
Where the name really came from is uncertain. Some old timers
call the canyon "Smoke Holes" and claim Native Americans used
the caves for smoking meat. Others say it was the moonshiner's
stills that gave the gorge its name. Regardless, the canyon is
considered by many to be one of the most beautiful areas in West
Virginia. The remote, rugged landscape provides a unique recreation
experience, whether you are fishing, hunting, hiking, canoeing
or camping. The roads into the area are narrow and winding: take
your time and enjoy the scenery.
The North Fork Mountain Trail follows
the ridge top along the western rim of the canyon. This 24-mile
trail has countless views of the Smoke Hole canyon and North Fork
valley. Drinking water is not available so remember to bring your
own. From high points, the Blue Ridge Mountains are visible to
the east.
Located at the end of Smoke Hole
River Road, the Big
Bend Campground contains
46 campsites in three loops. Each site has a picnic table, lantern
post, fire ring, and parking place. Piped water and flush toilet
are available April through October. You can take a short walk
on the one-third mile trail that runs along the turn in the river
that gives the campground its name.
Fishing is extremely popular along
the river throughout the canyon. Streams are stocked with rainbow
and golden trout by the West
Virginia Department of Natural Resources
from January through June and then again in October. Large and
smallmouth bass are also plentiful. State fishing licenses with
a national forest stamp are required. Special regulations apply
to the area between Eagle Rock and Kimble Cabins (designated with
signs and cables across the river). This area is managed for "catch
and release" only from March 1 through May 31. Special bait and
tackle regulations apply. General regulations apply June 1 through
February 28.
Kayaking and whitewater canoeing
provide the best ways to see the canyon, particularly the lower
section where there are no roads or trails. The entire Smoke Hole
river run is about 25 miles.
Squirrel, grouse, turkey, deer,
rabbit and bear hunting is popular in late fall. Most of the land
in the Smoke Hole is managed by the Forest Service and is open
to hunting subject to West Virginia hunting regulations. Be aware
of private land and do not trespass.
Caves are common in the area. Some
are home to the endangered Virginia big-eared bat and are therefore
closed to visitors during critical nesting or hibernation periods.
Many caves are located on private land.
For more information contact the
Potomac District Office at (304) 257-4488 or you can contact the
Seneca
Rocks Discovery Center
during the summer months at (304)567-2827.
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