National Weather Service
Professional Development Series
Professional Competency Unit

Marine Weather Services

PCU 8: Waves and Wave behavior

Producers: Bob Dukesherer, WFO Grand Rapids MI, and Dan Sobien, WFO Tampa FL.

Description of Job Duty Competency to be Achieved

Apply an understanding of wave characteristics (generation, growth, dissipation) to appropriate warnings and forecasts for marine and coastal activities.

Description of Need

Wave forecasts have a strong influence on the decisions and safety of marine and coastal
customers. This PCU identifies all necessary components used to enhance skills in wave,
swell, and surf forecasting.

Specific Job Task Skills and Knowledge

8.1. Know and apply wave definitions and terminology

  1. Know wave physical characteristics
  2. Wave Spectra

 

8.2. Understand and apply concepts of wave life cycle

  1. Wave Generation
    1. Wind speed
    2. Wind direction
    3. Wind fetch
  2. Wave Propagation
    1. Geometrical spreading
    2. Dispersion
  3. Wave Dissipation
    1. Wave bottom friction
    2. White capping
    3. Opposing winds

 

8.3. Understand and apply various environmental effects on waves

  1. Bathymetry effects (shoaling, refraction, reflection)
  2. Boundary layer stability effects (warm advecting airmass, cold advecting airmass)
  3. Current/tidal affects (open ocean, near-shore)

 

8.4. Understand inputs to, and interpretation of, wave forecast models

  1. Inputs to numerical wave models
  2. Numerical wave model interpretation
  3. Data and forcing mechanisms used to develop wind wave and swell forecasts

 

8.5. Apply knowledge of marine elements and produce a high surf forecast

Instructional Components

Instructional Component 1.1: To be defined - mostly likely to be web-based.

Instructional Component 8.1: To be defined - mostly likely to be web-based.

Instructional Component 8.2: To be defined - mostly likely to be web-based.

Instructional Component 8.3: To be defined - mostly likely to be web-based.

Instructional Component 8.4: To be defined - mostly likely to be web-based.

Instructional Component 8.5: To be defined - mostly likely to be web-based.

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Last updated on 2/19/02