Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide¹

J. M. Stephens, R. A. Dunn, G. Kidder, D. Short, and G. W. Simone²

Successful vegetable gardens offer their owners fresh air, sunshine, exercise, enjoyment, mental therapy, nutritious fresh vegetables, and economic savings, as well as many other benefits. Gardens may be grown year-round in Florida, but spring is the preferred season. Statewide there are over 1 million vegetable gardens, averaging 300 sq. ft. and a retail value of $300.

While this guide provides recommendations primarily for regular gardens, the information may be useful in other common gardening situations, such as container, organic, community, and market gardens.

Steps in Gardening

Site

Locate the garden near the house for convenience on a site close to a source of water and with at least six hours of direct sunlight. With proper care, vegetables may also be included in the landscape among ornamental plants. Where possible, practice site rotation for control of weeds and other pests. Coastal sites are also suitable.

Plan

Before planting, make a paper plan, including vegetables you intend to plant, where, and when. Use the "Planting Guide" in Table 3 and Table 4 to develop your plan. Make a list of supplies and then proceed early to order or purchase.

Soil Preparation

While most gardeners plant on whatever soil type is available in the garden plot, you may improve your soil by bringing in topsoil or a soil mix, or by applying liberal amounts of organic materials. Spade or plow the plot at least three weeks before planting. At planting time, rework the soil into a fine, firm seedbed.

Organic Matter

Most Florida soils benefit from applications of various forms of organics, such as animal manure, rotted leaves, compost, and cover crops. Thoroughly mix liberal amounts of organics in the soil well in advance of planting, preferably at least a month before seeding. Spread 25 - 100 pounds of compost or animal manure per 100 sq. ft. if you do not expect to use inorganic fertilizer. Well composted organics may be applied at planting time. Due to inconsistent levels of nutrients in compost, accompanying applications of balanced inorganic fertilizer may be beneficial. To avoid plant stunting, organic amendments low in nitrogen -- such as composted yard trash -- must be accompanied by fertilizer.

Cover Crops

Off-season planting and plow-down of green-manure crops is beneficial. In Florida, summer legumes -- such as cowpeas and hairy indigo -- are most often used. In winter try ryegrass plus lupine, and hairy vetch.

Compost

As a home-garden composter, you can help reduce the amount of yard waste going to landfills while manufacturing your own compost. Composting is easy to do and yields a manure-like organic fertilizer/soil conditioner highly beneficial on Florida's infertile native soils. A small compost pile measuring 3x3x3 (1 cu. yd), called a "compost unit", is easily made.

1. Build larger piles by putting together several units into a single bin.

2. Construct a bin with sides made from treated lumber, concrete blocks, wire or other durable materials.

3. Make successive, 12-inch-thick layers of plant waste -- such as leaves, lawn clippings, shredded branches, and wood chips. Kitchen scraps may also be used.

4. Onto each layer, distribute one cup each of dolomite and 8-8-8 fertilizer (or one quart chicken litter) per unit

5. Moisten each layer, then keep pile moist.

6. After three to four weeks and every week thereafter, thoroughly mix the compost pile.

7. Compost should be ready for use in two to 12 months or when plant parts are decomposed.

Adjusting Soil pH

The best pH range for gardens on sandy soil is between pH 5.8 and 6.3. If your soil pH is between 5.5 and 7.0, no adjustment in pH needs to be made.

If your soil pH is below 5.5, apply lime at the rate recommended by a reliable source, such as the IFAS Extension Soil Testing Laboratory (http://soilslab.ifas.ufl.edu/). In the absence of a lime requirement test, application of 2 - 3 pounds of finely ground dolomitic limestone per 100 sq ft will usually raise the pH sufficiently when the soil pH tested is below 5.5. Caution: Application of lime when it is not needed may cause plant nutritional problems. Lime needs are best met two to three months before the garden is to be planted. However, lime may be applied as late as one or two weeks before planting. Make sure the lime is thoroughly mixed into the soil to a depth of 6 - 8 inches and then water to promote the chemical reaction.

If your soil pH is naturally above 7.0 (alkaline), where limestone, marl, or shells are present, there is no practical way of permanently lowering soil pH. Use fertilizer with micronutrients as discussed in the following section. If the high pH is the result of previous over-liming, application of granular sulfur (1 lb/100 sq ft) will lower soil pH.

Fertilizing

Unless very large quantities of organic fertilizer materials are applied, commercial fertilizer is usually needed for Florida gardens. Gardeners find it convenient to use commonly available fertilizer grades, such as 8-8-8 or 15-15-15. Be sure to include micronutrients if soil pH is above 6.3. The quantities shown in Table 1 are usually sufficient.

Broadcast the indicated amount of fertilizer over the entire garden plot one to two weeks before planting. Band the other portion at planting time in one or two bands with each 2 - 3 inches to the side of and 1 - 2 inches below the seed level or plant row.

In addition, during the growing season, it may be necessary to sidedress two or three times with appropriate fertilizer at half the banded rate shown in the table. On mineral soils, a grade such as 15-0-15 may also be used for side-dressing at a rate of ½ - 1 oz. per 10 ft. of row. Sidedress just beyond the outside leaves.

If a different fertilization recommendation accompanies your soil test, use those specific recommendations, rather than the general ones given here.

Table 1. Fertilizer Recommendations

		Amount to Apply
Soil	Fertilizer grade	broadcast lb./100 sq ft	10ft/row banded oz.
Sand, marl, rock, or clay	8-8-8 15-15-15	2-4 1-2	4 2
Organic soils (muck, peat, or amended)	0-12-20	1-2	2

Irrigation and Drainage

Provide sufficient drainage of excessive rainfall from your plot while arranging for irrigation during dry periods. Frequency of irrigation depends upon your soil type; sandy soils need water two or three times a week. Conserve water by using mulch, organic matter, and techniques such as drip irrigation. Make a slight depression at the base of plants to hold water until absorbed by the soil.

Weed Control

The primary purpose of cultivation is to control weeds. Weeds are easier to control when small. In gardens, practical weed control is best accomplished by hand-pulling, hoeing, mechanical cultivation, or mulching. Chemical herbicides are not suggested.

Nematodes

Most Florida soils contain nematodes, microscopic worms that can seriously reduce growth and yield of most vegetables by feeding in or on the vegetable roots. Nematode damage is less likely in soils with high levels of organic matter and where crops are "rotated," so that the same members of the same family are not planted repeatedly in the same soil.

Excessive nematode populations may be reduced temporarily by "soil solarization." To "solarize" your soil, first remove vegetation, then break up the soil and wet to activate the nematode population. After preparing the soil, cover it with sturdy clear plastic film during the warmest six weeks of summer. High temperatures (above 130°F) must be maintained during this time for best results.

Disease Control

Exclusion -- Purchase only disease-free plants. Look carefully for common symptoms of diseases. Avoid gross movement of infested soil.

Eradication -- Certain soilborne diseases (e.g. damp-off, root and stem rots, and wilts) are especially troublesome on old garden sites. Site and crop rotation can slow or prevent the incidence of certain soilborne diseases. Avoid growing vegetables of the same family repeatedly in one area. Watch for early disease symptoms. Remove first diseased leaves or plants to slow spread.

Resistance -- Choose adapted varieties with resistance or tolerance to the diseases common in your area.

Protection -- Plant fungicide-treated seed. Dust untreated seed with a captan or thiram fungicide. Many common diseases can be controlled with either chlorathalonil, maneb, or mancozeb fungicide. Powdery mildews can be controlled with triadimefon, sulfur or benomyl, and rusts can be controlled with sulfur or ziram. Control bacterial spots with basic copper sulfate plus maneb or mancozeb.

Sprays are generally more effective than dusts. Begin control efforts early. Follow product labels for vegetable clearances, rates, and interval of application.

Insect Control

Scout the garden twice weekly for insect damage. Spray only affected plants. Follow label directions. The materials named in Table 2 are effective against the insects indicated in that table.

Pesticide Precautions

Consider all pesticides as potential poisons. Pesticides should be applied strictly according to manufacturers' precautions and recommendations. Always wash vegetables from garden thoroughly before using. Use pesticides only as necessary to control insects and diseases. Do not apply pesticides during the harvesting season. Otherwise, apply pesticides in early evening to avoid killing bees and reducing pollination. Store pesticides in their original, labeled containers. Keep pesticides out of the reach of children and other irresponsible persons. See also EDIS Publication CIR375, Organic Vegetable Gardening, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/VH019.

Tables

Table 2. Insect Control Recommendations

Pest	B.t.*	Carbaryl	Malathion	Soap**
Aphids			X	X
Armyworm		X
Budworms		X
Cabbageworms	X	X	X
Col. potato beetle		X
Cucumber beetle		X	X
Earworms		X
Fleabeetle		X
Fruit, horn, pinworms	X	X
Leaf miner
Leafhopper		X	X
Leafroller		X	X
Melon, pickle worms		X
Mexican bean beetle		X	X
Pameras		X	X
Pea weevils		X	X
Spider mites			X	X
Squash vineborer	X
Stink bugs		X	X
Thrips		X	X	X
Whiteflies				X
*Bacillus thuringiensis (Biotrol, Dipel, or Thuricide).
**Soap - Use any of several commercial products. Can also use 4 tbs. liquid dish detergent/gal. water.

Table 3. Planting Guide: Suggested Varieties, Plant Family, Harvest Information, and Comments

Variety (1)

WARM SEASON VEGETABLES

Beans, bush

Snap: Bush Blue Lake, Contender, Roma, Harvester, Provider, Cherokee Wax , Bush Baby, Tendercrop Shell: Horticultural, Pinto, Red Kidney

Comment: Fertilizer at ½ rate used for other vegetables. Seed inoculation not essential most soils. Flowers self pollinated. Use shell beans green or dry. For color, try Purple Teepee and Burgundy.

Beans, pole

Dade, McCaslan, Kentucky Wonder 191, Blue Lake

Comment: See Beans, bush. Support vines. May be grown with corn for vine support.

Beans, lima

Fordhook 242, Henderson, Jackson Wonder, Dixie Butterpea, Florida Butter (Pole), Sieva (Pole)

Comment: See Beans, bush. Provide trellis support for pole varieties. Control stinkbugs which injure seeds in pods. Fordhook is large-seeded; Henderson is "butterbean" type.

Cantaloupes

Smith's Perfect, Ambrosia, Edisto 47, Planters Jumbo, Summet, Super Market, Primo, Luscious Plus

Comment: Bees needed for pollination. Mulch to reduce fruit-rots and salmonella. Harvest at full-slip stage.

Corn, sweet

Silver Queen, Gold Cup, Guardian, Bonanza, Florida Staysweet, How Sweet It Is, Supersweet

Comment: Separate super-sweets (last three varieties) from standard varieties by time and distance. Sucker removal not beneficial. Plant in 2-3 row blocks.

Cucumbers

Slicers: Poinsett, Ashley, Dasher, Sweet Success, Pot Luck, Slice Nice Picklers: Galaxy, SMR 18, Explorer

Comment: Bees required for pollination. Many new hybrids are gynoecious (female flowering). Monoecious varieties have M/F flowers. For greenhouse, use parthenocarpic type.

Eggplant

Florida Market, Black Beauty, Dusky, Long Tom, Ichiban, Tycoon, Dourga

Comment: Stake your eggplants. Harvest into summer. Require warm weather. `Dourga' is white.

Okra

Clemson Spineless, Perkins, Dwarf Green, Emerald, Blondy, Burgundy

Comment: Produces well in warm seasons. Okra is highly susceptible to root-knot nematodes.

Peas, Southern

Blackeye, Mississippi Silver, Texas Cream 40, Snapea, Zipper Cream, Sadandy, Purplehull

Comment: See Beans, bush. The cowpea curculio is common pest. Tiny white grub infests seeds in pods. Good summer cover crop. `California No. 5 Blackeye' resistant to root-knot nematodes.

Peppers

Sweet: Early Calwonder, Yolo Wonder, Big Bertha, Sweet Banana, Jupiter Hot: Hungarian Wax, Jalapeno, Habanero

Comment: Mulching especially beneficial. Continue care of peppers well into summer. Mosaic virus a common disease pest. Most small-fruited varieties are attractive, but hot. `Habanero' is extremely hot.

Potatoes, Sweet

Porto Rico, Georgia Red, Jewel, Centennial, Coastal Sweet, Boniato, Sumor, Beauregard, Vardaman.

Comment: Sweet potato weevils are a serious problem. Start with certified-free transplants. Use vine cuttings to prolong season. `Vardaman' is a bush type for small gardens.

Pumpkin

Big Max, Funny Face, Connecticut Field, Spirit, Calabaza, Cushaw

Comment: Bees required for pollination. Foliage diseases and fruit-rot are common. For big ones try `Atlantic Giant.' For small ornamental type, try `Jack Be Little.'

Squash

Summer: Early Prolific Straightneck, Dixie, Summer Crookneck, Cocozelle, Gold Bar,Zucchini, Peter Pan, Sunburst, Scallopini, Sundrops Winter: Sweet Mama, Table Queen, Butternut, Spaghetti

Comment: Summer types usually grow on a bush while winter squash have vining habit. Both male and female flowers on same plant. Common fruit rot/drop caused by fungus and incomplete pollination. Bees required. Crossing occurs but results not seen unless seeds are saved. Winter types store longest.

Tomatoes

Large Fruit: Floradel, Solar Set, Manalucie, Better Boy, Celebrity, Bragger, Walter, Sun Coast, Floramerica, Flora-Dade, Duke. Small Fruit: Florida Basket, Micro Tom, Patio, Cherry, Sweet 100, Chelsea

Comment: Staking, mulching beneficial. Flowers self-pollinated. May drop if temperatures too high or low, or if nitrogen fertilization excessive. Florida varieties have best disease resistance. Some serious problems are blossom-end rot, wilts, whitefly, and leafminers. `Better Boy' appears resisitant to root-knot.

Watermelon

Large: Charleston Gray, Jubilee, Crimson Sweet, Dixielee Small: Sugar Baby, Minilee, Mickylee Seedless: Fummy

Comment: Due to space requirement, not suited to most gardens. Suggest small ice-box types. Plant fusarium wilt resistant varieties. Bees required for pollination. Florida record size melon is `Carolina Cross.'

COOL SEASON VEGETABLES

Beets

Early Wonder, Detroit Dark Red, Cylindra, Red Ace, Little Ball

Comment: Beets require ample moisture at seeding or poor emergence results. Leaves edible

Broccoli

Early Green Sprouting, Waltham 29, Atlantic, Green Comet, Green Duke

Harvest small multiple sideshoots that develop after main central head is cut.

Cabbage

Gourmet, Marion Market, King Cole, Market Prize, Red Acre, Chieftan Savoy, Rio Verde, Bravo

Comment: Buy clean plants to avoid cabbage black-rot, a common bacterial disease that causes yellow patches on leaf margins. Keep an eye out for loopers, use Bt for control.

Carrots

Imperator, Thumbelina, Nantes, Gold Pak, Waltham Hicolor, Orlando Gold

Comment: Grow carrots on a raised bed for best results. Sow seeds shallow and thin to proper stand.

Cauliflower

Snowball Strains, Snowdrift, Imperial 10-6, Snow Crown, White Rock

Comment: Tie leaves around flowerhead at 2-3 inch diameter stage to prevent discoloration. For green heads, grow broccoflower.

Celery

Utah Strains, Florida Strains, Summer Pascal

Comment: Celery requires very high soil moisture during seeding/seedling stage.

Chinese Cabbage

Michihili, Wong Bok, Bok Choy, Napa

Comment: Bok Choy is open-leaf type, while Michihili and Napa form round heads.

Collards

Georgia, Vates, Blue Max, Hicrop Hybrid

Comment: Tolerates more heat than most other crucifers. Harvest lower leaves. Kale may also be grown.

Endive/Escarole

Florida Deep Heart, Full Heart, Ruffec

Comment: Excellent ingredient in tossed salads. Well adapted to cooler months.

Kohlrabi

Early White Vienna, Grand Duke, Purple Vienna

Comment: Both red and green varieties are easily grown. Use fresh or cooked. Leaves edible.

Lettuce

Crisp: Minetto, Ithaca, Fulton, Floricrisp. Butterhead: Bibb, White Boston, Tom Thumb. Leaf: Prize Head, Red Sails, Salad Bowl. Romaine: Parris Island Cos, Valmaine, Floricos.

Grow crisphead type in coolest part of season for firmer heads. Sow seeds very shallow, as they need light for germination. Intercrop lettuce with long-season vegetables.

Mustard

Southern Giant Curled, Florida Broad Leaf, Tendergreen

Consider planting in a wide-row system. Broadleaf type requires more space. Cooked as "greens".

Onions

Bulbing: Excel, Texas Grano, Granex, White Granex, Tropicana Red Bunching: White Portugal, Evergreen, Beltsville Bunching, Perfecto Blanco Multipliers: Shallots

Comment: Plant short-day bulbing varieties. For bunching onions, insert sets upright for straight stems. For multipliers, divide and reset. Bulbing onions may be seeded in the fall, then transplanted in early spring (Jan-Feb). `Granex' used for Vidalia and St. Augustine Sweets.

Parsley

Moss Curled, Perfection, Italian

Comment: Grow parsley root similarly (Hamburg type). Curly and plain types do well.

Peas, English

Wando, Green Arrow, Laxton's Progress, Sugar Snap, Oregon Sugar.

Comment: Edible podded type are "Oregon" (flat) and "Sugar Snap" (round) - be sure to trellis.

Potatoes

Sebago, Red Pontiac, Atlantic, Red LaSoda, LaRouge, Superior

Comment: Plant 2-ounce seed pieces with eyes. Do not use table-stock for seed. Remove tops two weeks before digging to "toughen skin." Varieties planted by seeds produce less than from tubers.

Radish

Cherry Belle, Comet, Early Scarlet Globe, White Icicle, Sparkler, Red Prince, Champion, Snowbelle

Comment: The winter type (Daikon) grows well in Florida, too. Inter-crop summer type with slow growing vegetables to save space.

Spinach

Virginia Savoy, Melody, Bloomsdale Longstanding, Tyee, Olympia

Comment: Grow during coolest months. Malabar spinach is a more prolific type that grows well in Florida.(5)

Strawberry

Florida 90, Chandler, Dover, Florida Belle, Oso Grande, Sweet Charlie, Selva

Comment: Plant short-day varieties. Grow as an annual crop starting with disease-free plants in the fall.

Turnips

Roots/Tops: Purple-Top White Globe, Just Rite Tops: All Top

Comment: Grow for roots and tops. Broadcast seed in wide-row system or single file.

(1) Other varieties may produce well also. Suggestions are based on availability, performance, and pest resistance.

(2) To practice crop rotation, group family members; avoid planting family members following each other.

(3) Transplantability categories: I, easily survives transplanting; II survives with care; III, use seeds or containerized transplants only.

(4) Days from seeding to harvest, values in parentheses are days from transplanting to first harvest.

(5) For more information on Malabar spinach and other minor vegetables, get a copy of Bulletin SP-40, "Manual of Minor Vegetables."

Table 4. Planting Guide for Florida Vegetables: Spacing Information

Crop	Plant Family	Transplantability (3)	Pounds yield per 100'	Days to Harvest (4)	Seeds/plants Per 100'	Spacing (inches)		Seed depth (inches)	Planting Dates in Florida (outdoors)*
						Rows	Plants		North	Central	South
Beans, bush	Fabaceae	III	45	50-60	1 lb.	18-30	2-3	1-2	Mar-Apr Aug-Sept	Feb-Apr Sept	Sept-Apr
Beans, pole	Fabaceae	III	80	55-70	½ lb.	40-48	3-6	1-2	Mar-Apr Aug-Sept	Feb-Apr Aug-Sept	Aug-Apr
Beans, lima	Fabaceae	III	50	65-75	2 lb.	24-36	3-4	1-2	Mar-Aug	Feb-Apr Sept.	Aug-Apr
Beets	Chenopodiaceae	I	75	50-65	1 oz.	14-24	3-5	½ - 1	Sept-Mar	Oct-Mar	Oct-Feb
Broccoli	Brassicaceae	I	50	75-90	100 plts 1/8 oz.	30-36	12-18	½ - 1	Aug-Feb	Aug-Jan	Sept-Jan
Brussels Sprouts					100 plts 1/8 oz	30-36	18	½ - 1	Sept-Nov	Oct-Nov	Oct-Dec
Cabbage	Brassicaceae	I	125	90-110 (70-90)	(1/8 oz) 100 plts	24-36	12-24	½ - 1	Sept-Feb	Sept-Jan	Sept-Jan
Cantaloupes	Cucurbitaccae	III	150	75-90 (65-75)	½ oz.	60-72	24-36	1-2	Mar-Apr	Feb-Apr	Aug-Sept Feb-Mar
Carrots	Apiaceae	II	100	65-80	1/8 oz.	16-24	1-3	½	Sept-Mar	Oct-Mar	Oct-Feb
Cauliflower	Brassicaceae	I	80	75-90 (55-70)	55 plts (1/8 oz)	24-30	18-24	½ - 1	Jan-Feb Aug-Oct	Oct-Jan	Oct-Jan
Celery	Apiaceae	II	150	115-125 (80-105)	150 plts (1/8 oz)	24-36	6-10	¼ - ½	Jan-Mar	Aug-Feb	Oct-Jan
Chinese cabbage	Brassicaceae	I	100	70-90 (60-70)	125 plts (1/8 oz)	24-36	12-24	¼ - ¾	Oct-Feb	Oct-Jan	Nov-Jan
Collards	Brassicaceae	I	150	70-80	100 plts (1/8 oz)	24-30	10-18	½ - 1	Feb-Apr Aug-Nov	Aug-Mar	Aug-Feb
Corn, sweet	Poaceae	III	115	60-95	2 oz.	24-36	12-18	1-2	Mar-Apr Aug	Feb-Mar Aug-Sept	Aug-Mar
Cucumbers	Cucurbitaceae	III	100	50-65 (40-50)	½ oz.	36-60	12-24	1-2	Feb-Apr Aug-Sept	Feb-Mar Sept	Sept-Mar
Eggplant	Solanaceae	I	200	90-110 (75-90)	50 plts 1 pkt	36-42	24-36	½	Feb-July	Jan-Mar Aug-Sept	Dec-Feb Aug-Oct
Endive/Escarole	Asteraceae	I	75	80-95	100 plts	18-24	8-12	½	Feb-Mar Sept	Jan-Feb Sept	Sept-Jan
Kale	-	-	-	-	100 plts (1/8 oz)	24-30	12-18	½ - 1	Sept-Feb	Sept-Jan	Sept-Jan
Kohlrabi	Brassicaceae	I	100	70-80 (50-55)	1/8 oz.	24-30	3-5	½ - 1	Sept-Mar	Oct-Mar	Oct-Feb
Leek	-	-	-	-	½ oz.	12-24	2-4	½	Sept-Mar	Sept-Feb	Oct-Jan
Lettuce: Crisp, Butter-head, Leaf & Romaine	Asteraceae	I	75	50-90	100 plts	12-24	8-12	½	Feb-Mar Sept-Oct	Sept-Mar	Sept-Jan
Mustard	Brassicaceae	II	100	40-60	¼ oz.	14-24	1-6	½ - 1	Sept-May	Sept-Mar	Sept-Mar
Okra	Malvaceae	III	70	50-75	1 oz.	24-40	6-12	1-2	Mar-July	Mar-Aug	Aug-Sept
Onions, Bulbing	Liliaceae	III	100100100	120-160 (110-120) 50-75 (30-40) (30-40)	300 plts or sets, 1 oz seed	12-24	4-6	½ - 1	Sept-Dec	Sept-Dec	Sept-Nov
Onions, Bunching	Liliaceae	III	100100100	120-160 (110-120) 50-75 (30-40) (30-40)	800 plts or sets, 1 - 1½ oz seed	12-24	1-2	2-3	Aug-Mar	Aug-Mar	Sept-Mar
Onions, Multipliers	Liliaceae	III	100100100	120-160 (110-120) 50-75 (30-40) (30-40)	"	18-24	6-8	½ - ¾	"	"	"
Parsley	Apiaceae	II	40	70-90	¼ oz.	12-20	8-12	¼	Sept-Mar	Oct-Feb	Sept-Jan
Peas, English	Fabaceae	III	40	50-70	1 lb.	24-36	2-3	1-2	Jan-Mar	Sept-Mar	Sept-Feb
Peas, southern	Fabaceae	III	80	60-90	½ oz.	30-36	2-3	1-2	Mar-Aug	Mar-Sept	Aug-Apr
Peppers	Solanaceae	I	50	80-100 (60-80)	100 plts 1 pkt	20-36	12-24	½	Feb-Apr July-Aug	Jan-Mar Aug-Sept	Aug-Mar
Potatoes	Solanaceae	II	150	85-110	15 lbs.	36-42	8-12	3-4	Jan-Mar	Jan-Feb	Sept-Jan
Potatoes, sweet	Convolvulaceae	I	300	(120-140)	100 plts	48-54	12-14	---	Mar-June	Feb-June	Feb-June
Pumpkin	Cucurbitaceae	III	300	90-120 (80-110)	1 oz.	60-84	36-60	1-2	Mar-Apr Aug	Feb-Mar Aug	Jan-Feb Aug-Sept
Radish	Brassicaceae	III	40	20-30	1 oz.	12-18	1-2	¾	Sept-Mar	Sept-Mar	Oct-Mar
Spinach	Chenopodiaceae	II	40	45-60	1 oz.	14-18	3-5	¾	Oct-Nov	Oct-Nov	Oct-Jan
Squash, Summer	Cucurbitaceae	IIIIII	150300	40-55 (35-40) 80-110 (70-90)	1½ oz.	36-48	24-36	1-2	Mar-Apr Aug-Sept	Feb-Mar Aug-Sept	Jan-Mar Sept-Oct
Squash, Winter	Cucurbitaceae	IIIIII	150300	40-55 (35-40) 80-110 (70-90)	1 oz.	60-90	36-48	1-2	Mar Aug	Feb-Mar Aug	Jan-Feb Sept
Strawberry	Rosaceae	I	50	(90-110)	100 plts	36-40	10-14	---	Oct-Nov	Oct-Nov	Oct-Nov
Tomatoes, Stake	Solanaceae	I	200	90-110 (75-90)	70 plts 1 pkt	36-48	18-24	½	Feb-Apr Aug	Jan-Mar Sept	Aug-Mar
Tomatoes, Ground	Solanaceae	I	200	90-110 (75-90)	35 plts 1 pkt	40-60	36-40	½	"	"	"
Tomatoes, Container	Solanaceae	I	200	90-110 (75-90)					"	"	"
Turnips	Brassicaceae	III	150	40-60	¼ oz.	12-20	4-6	½ -1	Jan-Apr Aug-Oct	Jan-Mar Sept-Nov	Oct-Feb
Watermelon, Large	Cucurbitaceae	III	400	85-95 (80-90)	1/8 oz.	84-108	48-60	1-2	Mar-Apr July-Aug	Jan-Mar Aug	Jan-Mar Aug-Sept
Watermelon, Small	Cucurbitaceae	III	400	85-95 (80-90)	1/8 oz.	48-60	15-30	"	"	"	"
Watermelon, Seedless	Cucurbitaceae	III	400	85-95 (80-90)	70 plts	48-60	15-30	"	"	"	"
* North: north of State Rd 40; Central: between State Rds 40 and 70; South: south of State Rd 70.

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Footnotes

1. This document is SP103, one of a series of the Horticultural Sciences Department, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. Original publication date, December 1991. Revised March 1994. Reviewed May 2003. Revised December 2008. Visit the EDIS Web Site at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.

2. J.M. Stephens, professor and Extension Vegetable Specialist, Horticultural Sciences Department; R.A. Dunn, professor and Extension Nematologist, Entomology and Nematology Department; G. Kidder, professor and Extension Soils Scientist, Soil Science Department; D. Short, professor and Extension Entomologist, Entomology and Nematology Department; G.W. Simone, associate professor and Extension Plant Pathologist, Plant Pathology Department, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville FL 32611.

The use of trade names in this publication is solely for the purpose of providing specific information. It is not a guarantee or warranty of the products named, and does not signify that they are approved to the exclusion of others of suitable composition.

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U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A. & M. University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Millie Ferrer, Interim Dean.