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Windows and solar hot-air collectors are about equal in collection capability. I think the choice boils down to which works best for your situation. To me, these are the pros and cons.

Gary Reysa Solar Collector

Window Pros:

• Collect heat and provide daylight.

• Views.

• Nice bright interior.

• With good thermal mass (material that absorbs and maintains heat) in the house, they can carry some heat into the evening.

Window Cons:

• High heat loss at night and on cloudy days (can be somewhat overcome with thermal shades).

• Can be undesirable in some situations because of glare or loss of privacy.

• Can lead to overheating unless you have overhangs for summer and a house with adequate thermal mass to absorb the heat.

• To be effective, your south wall has to have a good view of the south sky.

• You need a floor plan in which it makes sense to have windows in the south wall.

• It’s harder to distribute the heat into the parts of the house where you want it.

That’s a fairly large list of cons, but solving these problems is what passive solar house design is all about. If you do it right, the windows both collect heat and make the house a bright and pleasant place to be. In a retrofit situation, you just have to be lucky that you can place the windows where you need them for passive solar.

 

Solar Hot-Air Collector Pros:

• More flexible in location — south roof, south wall, even detached from house — and easier to find a location with good sun.

• Can move the heat from the collector to where you want it more easily than with windows.

• It is possible to store heat for later use (at the cost of more complexity).

• No night heat loss problem.

 Solar Hot-Air Collector Cons:

• You lose the daylight and the views.

• Often have controls and fans that must be maintained.

• Typically they don’t look as good as windows.

It’s not really an either/or situation — you can (and should) use both on the same house. You can even mix them on the same south wall. I did not include cost as a pro or con for either option, since it can vary so much depending on how you go about it.

 


Photo by Gary Reysa

— Gary Reysa 

9 Comments

  • Myron R. Johnson 11/28/2008 9:32:04 AM

    Who sells the best energy eficient windows?

  • NutmegCT 11/20/2008 6:54:45 PM

    One thing that seems missing in the "collector vs. window" debate:

    If you've got cabinets, appliances, whatever on the south wall, you're going to have a tough time using all that wall space for a window.

    But if you put a collector on the outside of that same wall, you can use the entire wall to collect solar energy.

    Imagine a kitchen with a south facing wall, 10' wide and 8' high - cabinets on the left, refrigerator on the right, and a small (2x3') window in between. That window, 6 sqft, isn't much space to collect solar energy.

    But put a passive thermosiphon on the *outside* of that same 10x8 wall, and you have 80 sqft of solar energy collection. What an increase! And you haven't had to change any of the "layout" of the kitchen.

    Just another thing to consider - and I built thermosiphon just for that reason.

    Tom in Connecticut

  • Coolgas 11/14/2008 5:22:30 PM

    Anybody know you can save about 20% on heating oil cost with a product you can find at: addmilesnotfuel.com Also, I gained 7 miles per gallon using the other product found there. They actually work!

  • Leslie 11/14/2008 1:55:39 PM

    We had a cold front drop over eastern CO last night and drop about 4-inches of white moisture on the very dry eastern plains.

    We are at about 7,000 feet on a hill on the windy plains so heating is a major winter issue.

    When I woke up this AM, we were at 56 in the house so I started the high efficiency wood stove. We burn salvage wood that would normally find its' way to the land fill.

    The sun is now out and since the home was designed and built in 94 with a lot of windows on the south and a large over hang for summer shade, we are at 72 degrees inside with 28 outside as I write this.

    The wood stove, in the walk out basement, is in idle down mode now and we are making heat from the sun even with clouds passing.

    The home has R38 in the walls and R40 ceiling and triple-pane windows. We have some thermal mass and two custom window garden boxes that provide additional heat and also allow veggie growing in the winter. We have vaulted ceilings in the main open area so we use fans to move the heat down and around. Ceiling fans are used in all rooms of the ranch house to equal out the air temperature.

    The insulation was all done when the house was built as were the windows. The garden boxes and wood stove were added a few years after build.

    A small scale wind/solar system supplies power to 1000AH of batteries that supply inverters for emergency light use (power goes out here a lot) and the ham radio equipment.

    All outside lighting is solar powered LED including motion lights.

    When ready for replacement the fridge will be the highest energy efficient model possible. The cost savings models do not show a major savings over cost so replacement of failure will keep it out of the land fill until then.

    BTW, the furnace main switch has been off since last spring so I should at least run it to see if it still works.

    Solar water is on the list of projects to round out the homestead.

    All seems so nice if only we could have chickens. See

  • Dan 11/14/2008 1:38:50 PM

    We just installed a solar air collector on our south wall of our basement walkout.

    It was easier to install than I first thought, although you do need to get the mesurements right as far as the intake and outtake openings in the wall.

    It is working very well. If interested you can read about our experiences with the device we purchased and installed in early November 2008 here: http://dailyhomerenotips.com/2008/10/24/solar-air-space-heating-part-1-another-type-of-solar-energy/

    As far as south facing windows, in our case we have 5 foot high ENERGY STAR rated windows on the south wall of main floor (family room & kitchen). In the summer we installed exterior solar window shades because the excess head build-up was very uncomfortable, even with the interior window shades pulled down. And, in the winter we still left the exterior solar window shades on the outside because the excess heat build up was still uncomfortable and with the sun lower in the sky, we still needed to pull down the window shades for even more during the day so the UV rays would not hard our hardwood floor.

    Dan

  • Margaret and Bill in WV 11/14/2008 10:16:48 AM

    We've been through the same analysis as we remodel our 100 year old south facing farm house to be passive solar.

    One note: we wish we'd chosen a house where the back was south facing. Then all that not so beautiful solar water, heat, electric stuff would be discreetly hidden. And our house would maintain it's original "old farmhouse" look.

  • spidermonkey 9/27/2008 10:21:49 PM

    try www.frontierenergy.org maine has bioheat =D

    first thing is first insulate i like slow expanding cavity fill foam it fills completely(less you mess up), great insulating, doubt bugs eat it and vapor barrier... and little waste unlike the regular strip walls overfill and remove exess

    seal all openings(inside electrical boxes(shut off power) etc) cut a SMALL plug from wall or remove a shingle from exterior fill the stud bay. if your careful and remember to time each cavity so you dont over fill and shoot foam all over

    after that i would say collector first its a multi-tasker DHW and heat or assist atleast

  • anachronism 8/6/2008 10:09:53 AM

    Response to Questions on the value of PASSIVE HEATING AND COOLING " Reference to the question of (I quote) "On the other hand, if it does not save money, and the cost is excessive, it will not make good business sense to invest in." "I follow up with reality for 25 years" "Silly to spend $250 to save $28,000 is really fool hardy?" I guess 112% yearly return for 25 years stinks?
    The added cost to create a passive heating system in my first project in 1983-4 was the cost of 40' of 8" sheet metal pipe and a $35 remote sensor to activate a switch to turn on a 1/3 HP electric motor. TOTAL cost, including labor was $250 in 1984 dollars. Twenty four years of savings figure's out to $28,000 at $100 per month saved. So when you spend $250 to save $28,000 it is not worth the effort?
    To create the combined passive solar heat and the passive solar cooling in Vancouver cost $400 for two self-closing dampers, two 12 volt operated roof vent units with covers. The original investment of $400 saved $200 a month for 228 months saved $45,000. So the effort would seem to pay for itself. The saving accrued to the investment is only 11,250 percent for the 228 months? I guess you can find this rate of return at your local bank every day in Canada?
    The savings in Burlington only amounted to 14000% in 24 years. Now this shows that the systems in use in the five projects can actually return your investment a "Little" better than your local bank return of "4%" per year?? JULY 28,2008

    To anybody who wants "free Cooling", simply use the principle of cooling your "Residence" at night. It occurs nightly and “nobody” uses it! This "free air cooling" is used in Vancouver, since 1989 with an initial $400 investment and we have enjoyed "Free climate cooling" for 19 years.
    Forget the expense of "Mylar and reflective plastic" that obscures

  • jaslene 5/15/2008 7:19:58 PM

    Has anyone here ever considered switching from regular oil heat
    to bioheat? Has anyone here ever heard of it? I think it's an
    amazing alternative to regular oil heat, because it's clean burning
    and uses a b5 blend of vegetable and plant oils. I think everyone
    who wants to live in a greener household should seriously consider
    making the switch! It's easy, and no extra costs are involved. Just
    go on to http://oilheatamerica.com/index.mv?screen=bioheat and read
    more about it!

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