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The beauty of Great Falls
was contrasted by the trials the Lewis and Clark Expedition
underwent in the vicinity
National Park Service photo, courtesy of the Jefferson
National Expansion Memorial National Historic Site
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The Great Falls Portage presented Lewis and Clark with one
of the most challenging ordeals of the expedition. On June 13,
1805, Lewis and a small advance party witnessed "the grandest
sight" (DeVoto 1997, 137) when they became the first white men to
see the Great Falls of the Missouri River. Lewis commented that
"from the reflection of the sun on the sprey or mist which arrises
from these falls is a beautifull rainbow produced which adds
not little to the beauty of this majestically grand senery"
(138). Despite their splendor the Great Falls presented much
danger and hardship for the explorers. In one afternoon Lewis's
path converged with a bear, a mountain cat or wolverine and
three buffalo bulls; to Lewis it seemed that "all the beasts
of the neighbourhood had made a league to distroy me, or that
some fortune was disposed to amuse herself at my expence" (140).
Many members of the expedition were ill, including Sacagawea
who had been suffering for more than a week from an unknown
sickness. Clark, Charbonneau, Sacagawea and her baby nearly
drowned in a violent storm of torrential rain and huge hailstones.
Grizzly bears, rattlesnakes and mosquitoes were a constant worry,
even to the dog, Seaman, who Clark noted was "in a constant
state of alarm with these bear and keeps barking all night"
(151). Finally, all equipment and supplies, including canoes,
had to be carried by hand or in makeshift wagons overland for
approximately 18 miles in order to bypass the 21-mile stretch
of falls and rapids. Progress was very slow--the crude wagons
required constant repair as the men dragged them across the
rough terrain, the heat was intense, and the prickly pear cactus
tore through the men's moccasins. In his journal Lewis described
his men's condition:
. . . They are obliged to halt and rest frequently for
a few minute. At every halt these poor fellow tumble down and
are so much fortiegued that many of them are asleep in an instant.
In short their fatiegues are incredible; some are limping from
the soreness of their feet, others faint and unable to stand
for a few minutes, with heat and fatiegue, yet no one complains.
All go with cheerfulness . . . (Jones 2000, 69)
Great Falls aeriel view
National Park Service photo, courtesy of the Lewis and
Clark National Historic Trail |
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Further misfortune followed when Lewis's "Experiment," an iron-framed
boat manufactured in Harper's Ferry, West Virginia and carried
from Pittsburgh, failed to work. Consequently, 10 men under Clark's
supervision spent five days creating two dugout canoes out of
huge cottonwood trees. Nevertheless, the Great Falls area did
provide plentiful game, allowing the explorers to stock up on
food and leather clothing and to merrily celebrate Independence
Day:
. . . This evening, we gave the men a drink of sperits,
it being the last of our stock, and some of them appeared a
little sensible of it's effects. The fiddle was plyed and they
danced very merrily until 9 in the evening when a heavy shower
of rain put and end to that part of the amusement tho' they
continued their mirth with songs and festive jokes and were
extreemly merry untill late at night. We had a very comfortable
dinner, of bacon, beans, suit dumplings & buffaloe beef &c.
In short we had no just cause to covet the sumptuous feasts
of our countrymen on this day . . . (Jones 2000, 72)
Finally on July 15, after a month of portaging around the Great Falls, the explorers set out upstream, eager to locate the Shoshone Indians. Only a short time remained to cross the Rocky Mountains before winter and there were many great obstacles ahead.
The Great Falls Portage, a National Historic Landmark,
in Great Falls, Montana is primarily privately owned and is
not open to the public. The U.S. Forest Service operates a Lewis
and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center in Giant
Springs Heritage State Park in Great Falls, Montana. The Interpretive
Center is open Memorial Day weekend through September 30 from
9:00am to 6:00pm daily and October 1 through Memorial Day weekend
from 9:00am to 5:00pm Tuesday-Saturday and 12:00pm to 5pm on
Sundays. There is a fee for admission. Please call 406-727-8733,
or visit the U.S. Forest Service's website
for further information. You can also download
(in pdf) the Great Falls Portage National Historic Landmark
nomination.
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