What is Real Milk?

Not very long ago, raw or unpasteurized milk was the standard fare in every farm kitchen. Raw milk was also regarded as a health food, capable of curing all manner of ailments from arthritis to obesity to eczema.

Today, commercial distribution of milk makes pasteurization a necessity. The milk of many dairies is mixed together, which poses risks of contamination. Milk travels long distances, which jostles its delicate fats and makes it more apt to spoil. Pasteurization is a practical solution to both problems. It can kill pathogens such as salmonella that may have tainted milk; it also extends its shelf life from one week to two or three.

Routine pasteurization means that most Americans have never enjoyed a glass of fresh raw milk straight from the fridge. That's a shame. Even though pasteurization is standard in the milk industry, many people prefer to drink raw milk for its superior flavor and nutrition. Raw milk enthusiasts will go to some trouble to find a supply of certified raw milk from a herd of healthy cows raised by a conscientious dairy farmer and bottled in a sparkling clean creamery. I am one of them.

When I was growing up on a vegetable farm in Virginia, I milked our Jersey cow, Mabel. We drank our own fresh whole raw milk every day. How little I appreciated Mabel's ability to make rich milk from nothing more than a small patch of green grass! Now that I live in New York City, I begin to grasp the luxury of having more fresh milk than we could drink.

Every couple of weeks, I schlep across town to collect raw milk, cream, butter, yogurt, whey, creme fraiche, and fine dairy foods from farmers who raise their cows the old fashioned way: on grass.

The milk is fresh and sweet. The cream is even sweeter and-there is no other word for it-ineffably creamy. The yogurt is smooth, rich, and dense, better than any I have tasted. Perhaps that is because it is made from rich Jersey milk (5-6% fat) and heated to just 100 degrees Fahrenheit-no higher than the temperature inside a cow.

If you would like to learn more about raw milk: