Rescues
4
Public Assist
9
Total
20
Month
#Rescues
#Searches
2007 January 2 0
February 0 0
March 0 0
April 0 1
May 0 0
June 0 3
July 1 1
August 1 2
September 0 0
October 0 0
November 0 0
December 0 0
Helicopter Used
Rescue
Search
H-14/16, CHP Twinstar B3 2 4
PHI – Med 45 Twinstar B3 0 0
UH-60, Blackhawk, Guard 1 1
CH-47, Chinook, Guard 1 0
202, CDF
Total
4
6
Injury
Fracture 3 (leg, arm, fingers, ribs)
Sprain/Strain 2 (knee, back)
Lacerations 1 (head)
Dislocation 1 (shoulder)
Puncture 1 (crampons in leg)
Route Used by:
Injured Climber
Lost Climber
Avalanche Gulch 2 2
Casaval 1 0
West Face 0 0
Cascade Gulch 0 0
Green Butte/Sargents’ 0 0
Clear Creek 0 4
Hotlum glacier 1 1
Age (rescue only)
<15 0
15-20 0
21-25 1 (6/24 Mud Creek)
26-30 1
31-35 0
36-50 1
>50 0
Unknown 2
Gender (rescue)
Male 4
Female 1 (on a search with no rescue, a 25 y.o. female climber sustained a broken arm when she fell in the cliffs on upper Mud Creek, 6/24)
Immediate Cause
(rescue)
Fall/slip on snow/ice 4
Fall/slip on rock 1 (6/24 Mud Creek)
Contributing Causes
(rescue)
Exceeded abilities 4
Climbing alone 1
Incident occurred
while: (rescue)
Ascending 1
Descending 4
Helmet (rescue)
Helmet worn 3
No helmet 2
Unknown 0
January 14
Rescue
A climbing party of 4 reported one of their members had
fallen and
broke his ankle at around 1500 hours.
They were on the lower section of Casaval ridge.
The California Highway Patrol helicopter
responded and found the victim near Giddy Giddy gulch and transported
him to
April 8 Search At 1600 hours a USFS
Climbing Ranger was
notified of a missing 24 year old male climber who had ascended
Avalanche Gulch
and was last seen descending off route on the Konwakiton glacier at
1230
hours. His climbing partner had turned
back early and was waiting at the trailhead when other climbers told
him of the
last seen location. Weather conditions
showed temperatures in the mid 30’s at 8000 ft. and strong north winds
above
12,000 ft. with a lenticular cloud on the upper mountain.
The missing climber had little mountaineering
experience, intermediate ski ability, limited quality clothing, no bivy
gear,
but a headlamp, map and compass. He was
also reported in excellent physical condition.
The missing climber had teamed up with another solo climber at
10,400
ft., but turned around by himself at 13,900 ft. at
May 27 Public
Assist Two USFS Climbing Rangers
assisted a 32 year old male climber with AMS to descend to the
trailhead from
June 21 Search Climber became lost on the Clear Creek route. A search was done with a USFS Climbing Ranger and Law Enforcement Officer. The missing party was found later in the evening at the Clear Creek trailhead. He had gotten lost on route and eventually found his way back to the route and trailhead.
June 23 Search Three climbers became
lost on the Clear
Creek route. On descent, they wandered
off route and ended up north of the route on Ash Creek.
A California Highway Patrol helicopter found
the missing climbers and flew them back to the Clear Creek trailhead
area.
July 1 Public Assist A USFS Climbing Ranger assisted a climber with equipment problems at 12,700 ft. and was able to fix the issue. Carry the proper tools to adjust your crampons. Later, at 1300 hours, the same Climbing Ranger assisted several climbers descending through the Red Banks, from 12,700 to 12,500 ft., the “crux” of Avalanche Gulch.
July 3 Injury, no rescue A climber fell near the Heart in Avalanche Gulch (12,000 ft.) while descending and stuck his crampons into his calf, receiving multiple deep puncture wounds. A USFS Climbing Ranger atAugust 2 Search A 29 year old male climber became lost on the Clear Creek route when he became separated from his party while descending on Tuesday, July 31. When their missing partner did not show up at the camp and later at the trailhead they returned to the campsite (8500 ft.) and were unable to locate him. A search began on Wednesday, August 1 using a CHP helicopter but nothing was found. On Thursday, August 2, a much larger search began using several ground teams, search dogs and two helicopters, Cal Fire and a National Guard Black Hawk. Teams started up Mud Creek canyon from 5000 ft. and one working down the canyon from 8500 ft. The Black Hawk found the missing climber at the confluence of Mud Creek and Clear Creek (6400 ft.) and hoisted him out. He had no injuries.
Total
17
Month
#Rescues
#Searches
March 0 0
April 1 0
May 0 2
June 2 6
July 2 1
August 1 1
September 1 0
October 0 0
November 0 0
December 0 0
Helicopter Used
Rescue
Search
H-14/16, CHP Twinstar B3 5 5
PHI – Med 45 Twinstar B3 4 0
UH-60, Blackhawk, Guard 0 0
CH-47, Chinook, Guard 0 0
202, CDF
Total
9
5
Injury
Concussion 1
Fracture 3
Sprain/Strain 2 (knee, back)
Lacerations 1 (head)
Dislocation 1 (ankle)
AMS 1
Bruise 1
Other 1 (chest injury)
Route Used by:
Injured Climber
Lost Climber
Avalanche Gulch 3 5
Casaval 1 1
West Face 3 0
Cascade Gulch 0 1
Green Butte/Sargents’ 0 1
Clear Creek 0 1
Brewer Creek 0 1
Age (rescue only)
<15 0
15-20 1
21-25 0
26-30 2
31-35 0
36-50 2
>50 2
Unknown 0
Gender (rescue)
Male 6
Female 1
Immediate Cause
(rescue)
Fall/slip on snow/ice 3
Fall/slip on rock 1
Falling rock 1
Ascended too fast 1
Exceeded abilities 1
Contributing Causes
(rescue)
Exceeded abilities 4
Climbing alone 2
Poor position 1
Incident occurred
while: (rescue)
Ascending 4
Descending 3
Helmet (rescue)
Helmet worn 6
No helmet 1
Unknown 0
Climbing Incidents of
2006
April 28
An experienced 17 year old male was climbing alone
to train
for a
A good reason not to climb alone, but this was a great case of the type of climber camaraderie which should always exist. A trained group gave up their summit plans to assist another climber in need.
June 3
At 0750 hours, a 41 year old male climber fell on
snow/ice
while ascending at approximately 12,500 ft. at the base of the Red
Banks in
Avalanche Gulch. He attempted to self
arrest, but was unsuccessful and fell/slid 1100 vertical feet. During the fall, his left crampon caught,
fracturing and dislocating his left leg and ankle with multiple bruises
and
abrasions on much of his body from the fall.
A nearby guide observed the fall and called 911.
Climbing Rangers from
He suffered multiple fractures in the leg/ankle area along with dislocation at the ankle. He had emergency surgery that evening and later surgeries to repair the ankle joint. He spent several months recovering and learning to walk again. He had little mountaineering experience, but was using appropriate clothing and equipment, including a helmet. The weather was stable and mild while the route remained firm and smooth.
June 4
A 26 year old male climber on the West Face route
fell while
climbing at 1200 hours. He was unable to
self arrest and fell/slid approximately 1300 vertical feet, stopping at
12,000
ft. Four Climbing Rangers were notified
and responded from the
July 2
A 39 year old male climber complained of severe
back pains
while in his camp at 7900 ft. He was
spending a few days traveling at lower elevations in an attempt to
acclimatize
for a commercial trip. He had a previous
back injury which was aggravated. His
pain prevented him from returning to the trailhead under his own power
and a
helicopter was requested. A medical
helicopter used a nearby LZ at 7900 ft. and transported the victim to
July 15
At 0430 hours, the Climbing Ranger at the
Climbers should learn to identify the signs of
altitude
illness, even on lower elevation mountains like the Cascades. While AMS is common, pulmonary and cerebral
edema can and have occurred on
August 10
A 59 year old male fell while on loose rocks while
descending from
September 6
Two separate parties (totaling 4 people) were
climbing
Avalanche Gulch in the poor September conditions (loose rocks, lack of
snow). Unfamiliar with the route, they
veered off route at 13,000 ft. and crossed the open Konwakiton glacier. Untrained in glacier travel, they were
uncomfortable with this route and decided to descend via another route. They chose the West Face route which had even
less snow on it than Avalanche Gulch.
While descending, one member left, choosing yet another route. The other 3 continued down the West
Face. At 10,200 ft. on a 35 degree
slope, the 3 climbers left the snow patch, moving to loose rock. They observed both natural and human
triggered rock fall and decided to move back to the snow.
During that time (1645 hours), they triggered
the release of a boulder and other rocks, knocking down two of the
climbers and
directly hitting the third. All three
tumbled 100 ft. vertically and 250 ft. horizontally.
The climber directly hit was a 30 year old
female and she was found by her climbing partners moaning and with
difficult
breathing. The other climbers had only
minor injuries. They called 911 at 1800
hours. The injured climber was assisted
by her partners to low angle terrain at 9200 ft. The
phone call was scratchy and two CHP
helicopters began to search at 1845 hours.
Due to lack of snow, the climbers blended in well with the rocks
and
were not spotted until 1925 hours. and evacuated at 1940 hours. They were all flown to
Non Climbing
Incidents on Mt.
Rescue 3
Search 2
Month
April 1
May 1
August 2
October 1
Gender
Male 4
Female 1
Age
15 – 20 3
36 – 50 1
>50 1
Helicopter Used
CHP 2
PHI 2
Non Climbing
Incidents:
April 23
A 15 year old male snowboarder became lost while
descending
from Bunny Flat (7000 ft.). A search
began and the CHP helicopter was used.
He was found that evening 0.5 miles above town on the
May 7
A 19 year old woman was injured while climbing up
the deep snow
bank at the Bunny Flat trailhead.
Rangers assisted stabilizing her suspected fractured ankle and
positioned her in her own vehicle where she was transported to
August 11
A male, approximately 45 years old, was injured
while hiking
near South Gate Meadow. He was
transported to
August 28
A 16 year old male was injured while hiking near
Ash Creek
falls. With a suspected back injury in
this remote area, he was transported to
October 24
A 60 year old male was hiking from the Clear Creek
trailhead
and became lost. He bivouacked 1 night
and was found the next day in Mud Creek by the CHP helicopter. He had no injuries.
INCIDENT SUMMARY
2005
The first fatality in 3 years occurred in March
with most of
the other incidents taking place during May and June.
All of the reported incidents were on the
south side of the mountain and predominantly involved the John
Muir/Avalanche
Gulch route. One winter search/rescue
took place during the biggest storm of the year in late December when a
stranded climber called for help. Most
of the injuries occurred while climbers were descending and involved
typical
fractures and dislocations of the extremities.
Three interesting or unusual events occurred:
1) ice axe puncture/penetration to neck; 2)
two injured climbers were rescued by their own party; and 3) none of
the
injuries were caused by rockfall. As
usual, in all of the searches, party separation was a major
contributing cause.
RANGERS
The Mt.
Shasta Wilderness
Climbing Rangers consisted of two seasonal rangers and two full time
rangers
this year. They regularly patrolled the wilderness, spending
approximately 75%
of their time on the mountain patrolling the routes, educating
visitors,
cleaning the bivy sites and restrooms at the trailheads and assisting
in
searches. Approximately 70% of their time spent on the mountain was
mainly on
the southside, where most of the visitors are concentrated. They
provided
wilderness education classes to various school and special interest
groups. The rangers facilitated over 8 “So
you want to Climb Mt. Shasta” power point presentations, at various
REI’s in
Climbing and
Wilderness Use
The crowds seemed to
come in waves in the month of March - May mainly on the weekends, then
the
numbers steadily increased through the month of June lasting through
the end of
July. The snowpack became very thin
earlier than normal this year especially on the southside, and we found
that
more folks were trying other routes on various sides of the mountain.
Dogs in Wilderness
2
ATV in Wilderness
1
Snowmobile in Wilderness 1
Vandalism
2
Illegal campfire
9
Damage to stream
2
Searches
6
Rescue/Recovery
10 (2
were performed without agency assistance)
Public Assist
1
Total
17
Month
# Incidents
2004 January 0
February 0
March 1
April 0
May 4
June 7
July 0
August 2
September 2
October 0
November 0
December 1
H-1, Mercy Hospital A-Star 0
H-14/16, CHP Twinstar B3 10
UH-60, Blackhawk, Guard 1
CH-47, Chinook, Guard 0
202, CDF
Total
14
Injury
Fracture, lower extremity 4 (ankle)
Puncture/Penetration 1 (neck)
Head 1
Neck (Spinal fracture) 1
Sprain/Strain 1 (ligament damage to knee)
Dislocation – Shoulder 1
Dislocation - Hip 1
Dislocation – Patella 1
Route Used During SAR IncidentAvalanche Gulch 15
Casaval Ridge 2
Age (rescue only)<15 0
15-20 0
21-25 2
26-30 0
31-35 0
36-50 1
> 50 0
Unknown 7
Gender (all SAR)Male 10
Female 7
Immediate Cause (Rescue)Fall/slip on snow/ice 4
Unknown 6
Contributory Causes (Rescue)Exceeded ability 3
Inadequate clothing/equipment 2
Unknown 5
Incident Occurred While…Ascending 1
Descending 9
2004 Incident Descriptions
Two brothers were
climbing the
Casaval Ridge route on the SW side of
The California Highway Patrol helicopter flew to the mountain and obtained coordinates of the injured brother. Then they flew two Siskiyou County SAR members near the scene at around 1550 hours. The brother was found deceased from severe head and spinal injuries and was flown out. The deceased climbers’ ice axe was found two weeks later, but a helmet was never found.
Comments: Although the Casaval Ridge route is not specifically technical, it is very exposed throughout most of the route and long falls occur almost yearly. It is unknown if fatigue led to the climber tripping or how experienced he was in self arrest. However, it is a strong reminder to all climbers to regularly practice self-arrest and to climb slowly in exposed areas, making sure each step is secure.
A male
snowboarder descending Avalanche Gulch wandered off route below
treeline and
became lost at around 7200 feet. It was
reported to two USFS Climbing Rangers at around 1400 hours and they
began a
search. Tracks were found descending
past Sand Flat and into McBride canyon.
The Rangers located the missing snowboarder near the
A 44 year old male, who had climbed Avalanche Gulch 3 times previously, was attempting a one day ascent of the route with 3 other climbers with little experience. Their ascent was off route and they found themselves on Green Butte ridge in the early morning. 2 climbers traversed into Avalanche Gulch while the other two continued up Green Butte to Sargents ridge (much more challenging than Avalanche Gulch). Weather deteriorated and the upper mountain was in a whiteout. Because of this and lack of experience, the two climbers in Avalanche Gulch stopped climbing and descended. The 44 year old and his other partner on the ridge became separated and lost radio communication. The 44 year old reached the summit and radioed the other party members that he was descending. His other partner waited for him at 13,200 feet for around 3 hours, but he never appeared. The other 3 members of his party met at lower elevations and descended together.
A search began the next morning at 0700 hours with the Siskiyou County SAR team, two CHP helicopters and 2 USFS Climbing Rangers. Later in the day a California Air Guard Blackhawk assisted in the search.
While descending in the whiteout conditions from the summit, the 44 year old climber was unknowingly on the NW side of the mountain and is suspected to have descended the Whitney-Bolam ridge. He luckily had extra warm clothes and a stove with him when he bivouacked near the Whitney Glacier terminus. The following day he descended to Highway 97 and hitch-hiked back to the Bunny Flat trailhead on the south side of the mountain where the two Climbing Rangers met him.
Comments: Several things are learned from this incident – climbing into deteriorating weather is NOT recommended; party separation is one of the primary causes of lost climbers; a map, compass and GPS are great tools to use, especially because there is NO trail to the summit of Mt. Shasta and lower elevation trails are covered in snow until mid to late summer.A 42 year old male became separated from his climbing party while descending the south side of the mountain. A search began the next morning and he was found by CHP helicopter H-16 in lower Cascade Gulch. Local skiers and snowmobilers were also used during the search.
A woman
descending Avalanche Gulch injured her ankle with a suspected fracture. A USFS Climbing Ranger assisted the woman and
she was evacuated by CHP helicopter H-14.
No other information is available.
A 40 year
old woman became separated from her climbing party while descending
Avalanche
Gulch. On a search the next morning she
was found by CHP helicopter H-14 in Cascade gulch with no injuries.
A 47 year old woman became lost while descending Avalanche Gulch below treeline. She called out on her cell phone and a search began in the evening. She was found by CHP helicopter H-14 and evacuated. She had no injuries.
A male climber was injured while descending Avalanche Gulch. With a suspected fractured ankle, his climbing party stabilized his injury and made a makeshift sled with a sleeping pad and began lowering him from 10,400 feet. A USFS Climbing Ranger was informed of the injury and made contact with the victim and party at 8000 feet. They denied any treatment or assistance and the Ranger found the situation to be well under control. Another USFS Climbing Ranger followed them to the trailhead in case they should need help.
A male climber dislocated his
knee while descending Avalanche Gulch below
A woman
injured her knee while descending at around 12,700 feet.
A thunder cell was over the mountain
restricting rescue and making the victim’s location dangerous for
lightning. With the assistance of
another climber in her party, she was able to descend to their camp at
10,400
feet that evening. The next morning, CHP
helicopter H-14 was able to evacuate the injured climber from 10,400
feet to
the hospital in
August, 2004
A USFS Climbing Ranger was ascending to the high camp and made contact with one of the victim’s party members at 1130 hours. The Climbing Ranger began communications with the USFS and the Siskiyou County SAR team to begin a rescue and evacuation. Additionally, the Climbing Ranger enlisted 4 other climbers at the high camp to assist in the rescue. The rescue party carried gear from the rescue cache and began ascending to the victim at 1150 hours. They arrived at the accident scene at 1220 hours. CDF helicopter 202 was on standby with a 10 minute eta. The Climbing Ranger requested helicopter evacuation due to the compromised airway. Additionally, CHP helicopter H-14 had flown over performing reconnaissance on location, flight conditions and rescue potential on the steep slope. They were unable to perform the mission but CDF helicopter 202 could.
The Avalanche Gulch route was in
very poor climbing condition during this Labor Day weekend. With most of the snow melted, leaving a steep
slope of very loose rock, climbing is more difficult and dangerous due
to
falling rock. A 23 year old male climber
with little experience, no equipment and inappropriate clothing began
ascending
at 0900 hours (a late start for average
climbers on
A USFS Climbing Ranger was at the high camp, but not climbing due to the poor and dangerous conditions. He had advised the other climbers of these dangers the night before. When the solo, 23 year old climber did not return to the high camp, the Climbing Ranger became concerned and asked other climbers if they had seen him. He was climbing in running shoes, cotton jeans and a sweatshirt and did not have an ice axe, ski poles, helmet, mountaineering boots, etc… and had apparently taken a steeper variation of the normal route.
In the last light of the day, the Climbing Ranger spotted the missing climber, descending at 12,500 feet. The missing climber had a flashlight, but it went out at around 2000 hours. The Climbing Ranger ascended the route, finding the missing climber cold, tired and not moving at 11,200 feet. He was assisted by the Ranger with light and ski poles back to the high camp at 2200 hours.Comment: The
best time to
September, 2004
A male climber dislocated his shoulder in Avalanche Gulch. A USFS Climbing Ranger assisted the injured climber and helped with evacuation by CDF helicopter 202. No other information is available.The solo climber started in the good weather of December 25th and camped at 10,200 feet. Snowfall began on the 26th and strong winds developed. He decided not to climb and stayed in his tent. Soon the snowfall became heavy and strong winds continued. He became concerned and contacted the Siskiyou County Sheriff for advice. Because of the blizzard conditions and increasing avalanche danger surrounding his camp, he was recommended to stay put and advised that a rescue was not possible in the current conditions. He said he had food and supplies and could stay put.
Heavy snowfall
(36 inches) plus wind deposition, continually buried his tent and
caused it to
collapse. Winds were measured at 40-50
mph at 8000 feet and expected to be higher at upper elevations. The avalanche danger, posted by the
The evening of the 27th a rescue began. Snowfall was heavy, winds were strong the road up the mountain was closed and the avalanche danger was High. One of the USFS Avalanche Specialists provided weather and avalanche reports to the Siskiyou County SAR team throughout the evening and into the morning of the 28th as well as preferred travel routes. A snowcat took 3 SAR members from the gate closure at 5000 feet on the mountain road up to 6500 feet where they began skiing toward the bottom of Casaval ridge, outside of avalanche paths. They later retreated to the Horse Camp cabin at 7900 feet.
Despite advise to stay put, the climber descended on the evening of the 27th. This descent involves crossing many slopes with a history of avalanche activity. He ended up descending below treeline and dug a snow cave.The next morning, the SAR team of 3 began searching the area below Casaval ridge. Additionally, a CHP helicopter was asked to assist, if weather conditions permitted. Luckily, they arrived just in time as the clouds lifted to 10,000 feet. Winds were measured at 40 mph from the east, making flight conditions challenging. However, they were able to spot the climber and give directions to the SAR team on the ground who then made contact with the climber. He was determined to be in fair condition and the SAR team assisted him in descending where they met a snow cat and traveled down the road to the gate closure at 5000 feet.
Comments: Solo
climbing and climbing into
deteriorating conditions are not recommended.
The weather forecast should be watched until the last minute
before your
climb and you should monitor the weather for changes during your climb. Natural and human triggered avalanches occur
every year on
RESCUES, ASSISTS & INCIDENTS – 2003 CLIMBING SEASON:
Mt. Shasta Wilderness & Recreation Area
1. Report completed by:
Eric White, Matt Hill (USFS Climbing Rangers),
Michael
Massari (SWS)
2. Date of Accident:
05/21/01
3. Geographic Location:
Mt. Shasta Wilderness, CA
4. Gender and ages of persons involved:
Male, 27
Male, 30
5. Total Number of Persons in Party:
5 (1 guide, 4 clients)
6. Details of Accident:
While ascending the Avalanche Gulch route, a
large
rock slide occurred, hitting the party, and injuring 2
individuals.
A. Snow
B. Ascending
C. Immediate Cause:
Falling Rocks
D. Contributory Cause:
Weather (low snowpack for May and warm temperatures
5/21)
E. Type of Injury:
#1 climber: Laceration, contusions, loss of
consciousness
#2 climber: contusion (upper back on spine),
fracture
to hand
7. Experience Level:
Moderate for both
8. Narrative Description of Accident:
The Sierra Wilderness Seminar (SWS) guided parties
began
their climbs early to lessen their exposure to rock fall which is
usually
more active in the afternoon. There were several SWS parties on
the
route simultaneously. One party was at 11,500’ at 07:45 when the
rock
slide started. As rocks and ice chunks fell, they attempted to
move
out of the way, but the rocks were moving fast and had enough momentum
to cross the gulch where the party was located. Two of the five
member
team were struck by rocks. One climber was hit on the forehead,
impacting
his helmet. He tumbled down the hill 250 feet, lost
consciousness,
and slid another 250 feet before coming to a stop. The SWS guide
descended
immediately to the climber, did a primary and secondary assessment.
Other SWS guides were notified as well as Search and
Rescue.
The other guides were able to keep their clients in a safe place while
they
descended to assist. They made a barricade of backpacks and gear
above
the injured climber to protect him from continuing rock and ice
fall.
The climber's neck and head were immobilized and the laceration on his
forehead was bandaged.
Another climber, not with SWS, was also impacted by
rock
fall to the arm, and walked to Lake Helen where he was evacuated by
helicopter
at 09:45.
The climber was hit on the upper back and on the lower
arm/hand.
The climber descended with a guide to Lake Helen (10,400’), where he
was
evacuated by helicopter at 10:30.
Search and Rescue climbed up to the first injured
climber
and arrived at 12:30 bringing rescue gear. The climber was
backboarded,
placed in a SKED and lowered to an LZ at 10,600’ where he was evacuated
by
helicopter at 13:30.
The California Highway Patrol helicopter evacuated all
injured
climbers and transported them to Mercy Medical Center, Mt.
Shasta.
Both climbers were released by 16:00.
9. Analysis of Accident:
The snowpack on Mt. Shasta was around 70% of normal and
very warm spring conditions caused a rapid melting. Rock
fall
usually becomes more prevalent in July and August as the Avalanche
Gulch
route is surrounded on three sides by higher terrain of loose
rocks.
This route is notorious for rockfall as the snow melts, and early
season
and early morning climbs are usually safer.
Although climbing helmets are not designed for front or
side impacts, it probably made a huge difference in the extent of the
injured
climber's head injury.
Wilderness rescues often take several hours to days to
complete.
In this case, the party had to wait 6 hours in a very exposed and
dangerous
area before they were evacuated.
2. Date of Accident:
06/24/01
3. Geographic Location:
Mt. Shasta Wilderness, CA
4. Gender and ages of persons directly
involved:
1 Male, 24
5. Total Number of Persons in Party:
12 (10 is the maximum allowed)
6. Details of the Accident:
Male climber was glissading at 13,500 with his
crampons
on. His crampons caught and through him into a tumble where his
leashed
ice axe penetrated his thigh from hip to knee. He fell
approximately
2000 feet.
A. Snow
B. Descending
C. Immediate Cause:
Faulty use of crampons, loss of control-voluntary
glissade
D. Contributory Cause:
Exceeding ability
E. Type of injury:
Abrasion
Other: puncture/penetration (ice axe through
thigh,
hip to knee)
7. Experience Level:
none or little
8. Narrative Description of Accident:
The male climber and his party had climbed the
Hotlum-Wintun
route on the northeast side of the mountain. The climber and many
in
his party, had very little climbing experience. Although this
route
is not technically difficult, it does have steep sections and crosses
above
hazardous areas on the Wintun Glacier. On their descent, he
decided
to glissade wearing his crampons and his ice axe leashed to his
wrist.
At about 13,500’ on a 40-45 degree slope, the heels of his crampons
caught,
tumbling him into an out of control fall. He came to rest at
about
11,500’ where the slope had decreased to about 30 degrees. This
area
was right above a cliff over the Wintun ice fall.
His party summoned help from a commercially guided
Sierra
Wilderness Seminars trip. Two guides, Miller and Rodriguez,
responded
and used their cell phone to contact search and rescue at around
14:30.
They assessed and stabilized the climber's injuries. He had
abrasions
all over his upper body and his ice axe had entered his thigh just
below
his pelvis and exited near his knee. It was deep in his leg and
their concerns were that he had ruptured his femoral artery.
USFS Climbing Ranger, Harrington, who was at 10,400 on
the
south side of the mountain, was contacted and responded through
white-out
conditions. He arrived at the scene at 16:30 and found the
injuries
to be stable and bleeding under control. The climber showed no
signs
of shock, and they continued to monitor his condition waiting for air
transport.
A volunteer from Siskiyou County Search and Rescue arrived at the scene
at
19:00 and they wrapped the climber in sleeping bags to maintain his
body
temperature. At 20:30, a California Department of Forestry Bell
super
205 short hauled the climber in a litter with an attendant. He
was
taken to a lower elevation where he was transferred to the California
Highway
Patrol helicopter, and then transported to Mercy Medical Center, Mt.
Shasta.
Luckily, the ice axe had done little damage internally.
9. Analysis of Accident:
The USFS Climbing Rangers, outfitter guides and
the
retail shops which rent mountaineering equipment for Mt. Shasta, work
hard
every season to educate climbers about the use of ice axes and
crampons.
Unfortunately, every year there are accidents on Mt. Shasta from
improper
use of equipment even after people have been informed. Glissading
with
crampons can be hazardous to your health! Usually, leg fractures
occur
from this type of accident, but, amazingly, the climber had no
fractures.
10. Additional comments:
Cloudy conditions and the time of day made this
rescue
difficult.
2. Date of Accident:
07/18/01
3. Geographic Location:
Mt. Shasta Wilderness, CA
4. Gender and ages of persons directly
involved:
Male, 25
5. Total Number of Persons in Party:
3
6. Details of Accident:
A Shasta Mountain Guide, was descending with two clients when he was struck on the head by a falling rock. He was wearing a helmet, but still suffered from head trauma and a skull fracture.
A. Snow
B. Descending
C. Immediate Cause:
Falling rock
D. Contributory Cause:
weather
E. Type of injuries:
Other: head trauma, skull fracture
7. Experience Level:
Experienced
8. Narrative Description of Accident:
A guide for Shasta Mountain Guides (SMG), was
descending
with two clients on the Avalanche Gulch route at 10:15 when he was
struck
on the side of the head by a falling rock. They were at 11,800’
and
he was aware of the rock fall, having asked the clients to move out of
its’
fall line, when he was hit. As he lay unconscious, one of the
clients
used his radio to call other SMG guides who were at a higher elevation.
The other guides responded and notified Siskiyou
County
Search and Rescue. As the guides arrived, they did a primary and
secondary
survey, stabilized and monitored the injured guide. Another SMG
guide
from the West Face route assisted in bringing gear from the USFS rescue
cache
at 10,400’. The injured guide was stabilized in the SKED and
lowered
1,000’ on snow, then carried to an LZ at Lake Helen (10,400’).
With a clearing of cloud cover at 14:15, Sikiyou
County
Search and Rescue flew in the California Department of Forestry
super
205 helicopter to Lake Helen and transported the ijured guide to Mercy
Medical
Center, Mt. Shasta. He was later transferred to Mercy Medical
Center,
Redding where he was treated for head trauma and a skull
fracture.
Fortunately, a full recovery was expected.
9. Analysis of Accident:
Avalanche Gulch is one of the least technical and most
popular
routes on the mountain, but, it also has the highest exposure to rock
fall.
The injured guide was wearing a helment, and although
he
had a side impact around ear level, injuries probably would have been
worse
without it.
There were many minor injuries (contusions) in
Avalanche
Gulch this season due to rock fall.
2. Date of Accident:
07/16/01
3. Geographic Location:
Mt. Shasta Wilderness, CA
4. Names and ages of person directly
involved:
Male, 22
5. Total Number of Persons in Party:
7
6. Details of Accident:
Hogenacker developed AMS and felt unable to
move.
His party requested emergency assistance. It was late in the day,
the
upper mountain had cloud cover, and the elevation restricted
rescue.
A rescue was attempted by 6 SAR team members at 19:50, but, on arrival
at
13,000’, SAR found that Hogenacker had descended with his party.
A. Rock/Snow/Ice
B. Ascending
C. Immediate Cause:
Illness, ascended too fast
D. Contributory Cause:
Exceeded abilities
F. Type of injury:
Other: appeared to be AMS
7. Experience Level:
none or little
8. Narrative Description of Accident:
The sick climber and his party had little experience
and
were unable to recognize the symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness as
they
developed. They were climbing the Avalanche Gulch route on Mt.
Shasta,
and stopped at 13,200’ at the base of Misery Hill. The climber
appeared
sick, could not walk and had difficulty breathing. As often
happens,
their late ascent left them in cloud cover, with some electricity in
the
air.
Siskiyou County SAR was notified at 14:33. At
17:30,
the California Department of Forestry, Bell super 205 flew 3 SAR team
members
to Sargents ridge at 11,200’. It was too cloudy to fly any
higher.
The 3 SAR members were planning on climbing Sargents ridge to Misery
Hill.
This is a slightly technical and exposed climb. At 19:50 a brief
clearing
allowed the California National Guard CH-47 helicopter to lift 3 SAR
members
to 13,200’ at the base of Misery Hill. Another climber informed
them
that the climber and his party had descended on their own when they
believed
he wouldn’t be rescued. They were spotted from the air at 12,400’
in
an inaccessible area. The rescue was aborted.
On their descent, the climber improved and was able to
walk
out on his own.
9. Analysis of Accident:
The groups inexperience presented them with
several
problems. Climbing late in the day and into bad weather, limited
rescue
capabilities. As well as not recognizing the signs and symptoms
of
AMS put their whole party at risk. The biggest problem was
involving
SAR team members in risky rescue attempts, when the party was able to
resolve
their situation without help.
2. Date of Accident:
09/26/01
3. Geographic Location:
Mt. Shasta Wilderness, CA
4. Gender and ages of person directly
involved:
Male, 41
5. Total Number of Persons in Party:
1
6. Details of Accident:
A male climber was climbing alone on the Avalanche
Gulch
route and continued into a storm. On his descent from the summit,
in
a blizzard, he veered off route, and became lost on the southeast side
of
the mountain. He was wearing cotton and carried only a little
water.
He was found 2 days later in reasonable condition with mild hypothermia
and
superficial frostbite.
D. Rock/Snow/Ice
E. Descending
F. Immediate Cause:
Failed to follow route, exposure
D. Contributory Cause:
Inadequate equipment/clothing, weather, climbing alone
G. Type of injury:
Hypothermia, frostbite
7. Experience Level:
none or little
8. Narrative Description of Accident:
The climber was planning on climbing the Avalanche
gulch
route on the south side of the mountain, starting on September
24th.
He had little mountaineering experience, but had attempted Mt. Shasta
in
August of 2001. On his August climb, he did not summit due,
appearantly,
to AMS and had returned by himself in September.
Without checking the weather forecast or the poor current climbing conditions provided by the U.S. Forest Service, he began his climb from Horse Camp (7880’) at 0700 hrs on 9/24. A storm was forecast for that afternoon and evening and during the day many signs of its’ approach were visible. Thinking his illness during his August climb was from too much food, he brought only a bag of trail mix and a Camelback water pack. He wore cotton jeans, a long sleeve cotton t-shirt, a light insulated windbreaker, mid-weight boots, thin leather gloves and a felt hat.
He did not notice the approaching storm and when he summited around 1500, the storm began. The climber removed his rimed (icy) glasses and unknowingly wandered off route from the summit plateau (13,800) into the steep Mud Creek drainage on the southeast side of the mountain. In the whiteout on the steep scree slopes, he fell and tumbled several times.
The storm dropped between 6 inches to over a foot of new snow with the snow level around 9000’. He realized he was lost and kept himself awake all night huddled by some rocks during the storm. He was attracted to the lights from the town of McCloud 6000 feet below and miles south. He continued at first light and around 7000’ climbed out of the Mud Creek canyon into the forest. He crossed a prominent logging road, but continued past it toward McCloud. He spent his second night in a ravine against a log at around 5000’. The next morning, 9/26, he decided to go back to the road and follow it.
The Horse Camp caretaker noticed the empty tent on 9/24 and notified the U.S.Fores Service Climbing Rangers and Siskiyou County SAR. On 9/25 the search began with rangers following the route to 10,400’ and the California Highway Patrol helicopter searching from the air. The helicopter was limited by winds and cloudy conditions. On 9/26 two rangers climbed toward the summit while two other rangers and Siskiyou County SAR searched the southeast side of the mountain from above 5000’. The climber was found at 5000', 7 miles southeast of his original trailhead at 0930 on 9/26. The ranger performed a full assessment and found mild hypothermia, bruising, abrasions, and possible superficial frostbite on Clardy’s fingers, toes and face. He was taken to Mercy Medical Center, Mt. Shasta where he was treated and released.
9. Analysis of Accident:
Although this incident is not uncommon, it reminds us
of
the preventative actions we should take before a climb, even in
California.
Bad weather can happen any time of the year on Mt. Shasta, and climbing
conditions
are usually poor in September due to rockfall. It has snowed on
Mt.
Shasta even during the peak of summer and the average summer high
temperature on the summit is below freezing. As well, there is a
fine line between
going light and being prepared. Avoiding cotton and carrying the
“ten
essentials” is always recommended and we encourage climbers to wear a
helmet.
(For current climbing conditions, avalanche advisories and weather
forecasts: www.avalanche.org or (530)926-9613)
GARBAGE
Rangers removed approximately 150 pounds of
garbage
from the wilderness.
HUMAN WASTE
Rangers removed approximately 100 pounds of human waste
from the wilderness.
Human waste removed by climbers was approximately 5550
pounds
(111 barrels at approximately 50lb/barrel).
WARNING NOTICE – FAILURE TO PAY RECREATION FEE
Approximately 45 warning notices were issued for
failure
to pay fees for parking passes or summit passes.
OTHER VIOLATIONS
Vandalism to US
property
1
Fire in wilderness 1
Snowmobile use in wilderness 4
SEARCHES, RESCUES, ASSISTS AND REPORTED ACCIDENTS
WITH
NO ASSISTANCE
Search 6
Rescue 13
Assists 3
No assistance 6
Total 28
A total of 33 people were involved in these incidents.
CLIMBING USE
Estimated at
approximately
11,000.
SUMMARY
With an increase in the number of climbers and
lower
than normal snowpack, we amazingly saw fewer searches, rescues and
assists
with no fatalities. Many of the 28 incidents that occurred may be
attributed
to the usual causes: loss of control glissading, party
separation,
inadequate clothing or equipment, fall or slip on snow or ice.
However,
we did see more injuries due to rock fall. The early snowmelt
gave
us a longer season of rock fall danger.
One contributing cause to this decrease in
searches,
rescues and assists may be due to climbing safety education and
information
provided by the Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers in presentations, on the
mountain,
on the web page, and by information provided by the stations front desk
personnel.
Most incidents happened in June and July on the
Avalanche
Gulch route. Most victims were male between 26-50 years
old.
There were more broken legs than any other type of injury, but, a wide
variety
of injuries occurred. Most incidents happened while descending
and
the CHP Twinstar B3 Helicopter was used for ¾ of helicopter
evacuations.
Rangers were only involved in one flight, but
worked
with helicopters from the ground on the mountain.
Commercial climbing Guides performed two rescues
and
were involved a few other incidents.
MT. SHASTA WILDERNESS
INCIDENT BREAKDOWN
November 2000-October 2001
Searches 6
Rescues 13
Assists 3
Accident,
No Assistance 6
Total 28
Month
2000 November 0
December 1
2001 January 0
February 0
March 0
April 0
May 4
June 5
July 11
August 2
September 4
October 1
Helicopter Used
H-1, Mercy
A-Star
0
H-14, CHP Twinstar B3 10
UH-60, Blackhawk, Guard 0
Pavehawk 0
CH-47, Chinook, Guard 1
202, CDF Bell Super 205 3
Total 14
Injury
Fracture, upper
extremity
1
Fracture, lower extremity 4
Laceration 2
Abrasions 2
Puncture/Penetrations 3
Head 2
Neck 0
Bruise/Contusion/Hematoma 2
Sprain/Strain 1
Concussion 0
Frostbite 2
Hypothermia 2
Dislocation-shoulder 1
Dislocation-hip 0
AMS 1
HAPE 0
HACE 0
Pneumothorax 1
Other 3
Route Used During Incident
Avalanche
19
Casaval Ridge 0
West Face 0
Cascade Gulch 0
Whitney 0
Whitney/Bolam 0
Bolam 0
Hotlum/Bolam 2
Hotlum 0
Hotlum/Wintun 2
Wintun 0
Clear Creek 3
Sargent’s Ridge 1
Other 1
Age
<15 2
15-20 0
21-25 3
26-30 8
31-35 6
36-50 9
>50 1
Unknown 4
Gender
Male 28
Female 4
Unknown 1
Immediate Cause
Fall/slip on
rock
1
Fall/slip on snow/ice 5
Faulty use of crampons 1
Falling rock/object 8
Exceeded Abilities 1
Exposure 3
Ascended too fast 1
Failure to follow route 3
Fall in crevasse 1
Loss of control glissading 4
Failure to turn back 1
Other 1
RESCUES, ASSISTS & INCIDENTS – 2000 CLIMBING
SEASON:
Mt. Shasta Wilderness & Recreation Area
4-08-00
25 year old male slipped while climbing Sargents
ridge
@ approximately 12,600’. His shoulder was dislocated while
arresting
with his axe. His partner assisted him down towards Lake Helen in
whiteout
conditions; a Climbing Ranger contacted them @ approx. 10,700’ and
continued
down towards Lake Helen. When the clouds broke, CHP helicopter
H-14
flew into Helen and evacuated the victim.
4-13-00 – 4-23-00
Two climbers were reported missing on the Cascade
Gulch
route on the Northwest side of Mt Shasta. The climbers had been
caught
out in a severe spring storm- nearly two feet of new snow had fallen on
the
upper mountain the evening that they should have returned. Bad
weather
hampered search efforts throughout the operation. An additional
4+
feet of new snow fell on the upper mountain during the search.
One
climber died as a result of a fall and the other climber succumbed to
hypothermia.
During the operation the following aircraft were
utilized:
2 Cal Guard Black hawks, US Air Force Pavehawk, USFS CWN Bell Jet
Ranger,
CHP A-Star. Over-the-snow vehicles and skiers were utilized on
the
days that weather conditions made flying impossible.
4-19-00
During the search for the climbers missing in
Cascade
Gulch (above incident), a Cal Guard UH-60 Blackhawk crashed at approx.
11,600
feet near Cascade Gulch, just below the Shasta/Shastina saddle.
The
helicopter rolled at least once and came to rest on its side, yet those
onboard-
four Guardsmen, a reporter and two Climbing Rangers sustained only
minor
injuries. The party descended together through clouds to a
helispot. The Guard crew and reporter were evacuated later that
day by another Cal
Guard Blackhawk. The Climbing Rangers skied out to Bunny Flat.
5-16-00
35 year old male fell off Casaval ridge and
sustained
a broken ankle. Cal Guard Blackhawk was in the area to assist in
the
removal of the crashed Blackhawk(see above), so it was diverted and
evacuated
the victim.
5-21-00
Climber was reported missing in Avalanche
Gulch. Climbing Ranger located the missing person- who was
exhausted and dehydrated-
and escorted him to Bunny Flat.
5-30-00
34 year old male was glissading with crampons on in
Anaconda
Gulch (halfway between Horse Camp & Hidden Valley) when his right
crampon
dug into the snow and his ankle broke. Climbing Rangers responded
to
the scene on foot and lowered the victim to a helispot. CHP
helicopter
H-14 evacuated the victim.
6-04-00
53 year old male became separated from his party on
Sargents
ridge. Climbing Rangers began to search for him.
Fortunately,
he eventually returned to Bunny Flat.
6-07-00
40 year old male fell several hundred feet down the
Left
of Heart variation in Avalanche Gulch. He sustained fractures to
his
tibia, fibula and humerus. He was evacuated (short-haul) by CDF
Copter
202.
6-17-00
40??? year old male developed High Altitude
Pulmonary
Edema (HAPE). His party had climbed the Hotlum/Bolam ridge and at
the
summit other parties reported that he was short of breath and making
“gurgling”
sounds. The party apparently assisted the victim back to their
camp
@ 11,000’. They reportedly arrived in camp at 8:30pm, after an
over
6-hour descent.
6-23-00
Climber fell in Avalanche Gulch near The Heart-
approx.
11,600’. Victim sustained: avulsion to thumb, sprained ankle,
wrist
and bruised ribs. For unknown reasons, the victim continued to
climb.
Climbing Ranger contacted him near the Summit and after a thorough
examination,
assisted him down to Lake Helen. From here he declined further
assistance.
6-23-00
15 year old male complains of chest pain and has a
moderately
elevated pulse. He had no previous medical history. After a
thorough
assessment, Climber Ranger recommends descent and escorts individual to
Bunny
Flat. His condition improved rapidly upon descent.
6-25-00
32 year old male climbed the Clear Creek route in
deteriorating
weather and became separated from his party. He mistakenly
descended
Avalanche Gulch. A Climbing Ranger- who was responding to another
incident,
contacted him @ the top of The Heart (12,200’). The Ranger
provided
him with directions to Horse Camp and continued with his mission.
6-25-00
45 year old male mistakenly descended onto steep
terrain
just east of the Konwokiton Glacier. His ascent route was
Avalanche
Gulch, but got off route coming down Misery Hill. It was mid-
afternoon
when the climber called 911 on his cell phone for help. A
Climbing
Ranger was dispatched to the scene from Lake Helen shortly after the
incident
was reported. A high altitude helicopter was not immediately
available. The Ranger arrived on scene at approx. 8:00 pm and
guided the climber back
down to Lake Helen. The climber spent the night at the Ranger
camp
at Helen and hiked out the next day.
7-02-00
21 year old male suffered severe case of Acute
Mountain
Sickness (AMS). Climbing Ranger contacted individual at 11,000’;
symptoms
included chest pain, shortness of breath, ataxia and elevated resting
heart
rate. Ranger descended with individual to 8,000’, where his
symptoms
improved dramatically.
7-02-00
At approx. 2:30 pm a 44 year old female fell off the
trail over Spring Hill (1/4 mile above Horse Camp). She tumbled
50-60
vertical feet over rocks, before coming to rest on the loose rocks near
the
base of the hill. She suffered multiple abrasions, lacerations,
contusions,
and avulsions on her face, head, arms, hands and legs. First
responders
took immediate C-spine precautions due to the mechanism of
injury. A
Climbing Ranger at Lake Helen responded immediately and arrived on
scene
at approx. 3:00pm and performed a thorough assessment. Lightning,
with
heavy rain and hail put the possibility of helevac on hold; so 3
additional
Rangers began to hike to the scene to prepare for a possible carry
out.
At approximately 5:00pm, weather conditions allowed Mercy helicopter
H-1
to move in and evacuate the victim. Shortly thereafter, weather
conditions worsened again and heavy showers with lightning continued
into the night.
7-04-00
At 3:30am, a 53 year old male dislocated his
artificial
hip at Lake Helen while attempting to put on his crampons. At
3:45am
the Climbing Ranger at Helen was notified and he began to arrange for
helevac.
The patient was made as comfortable as possible. The patient was
evacuated
via Mercy helicopter H-1 at approx. 7:45 am.
7-09-00
A teen age male and female, together with a 45 year
old
female climbed the Mountain via Avalanche Gulch using crampons, but no
ice
axes. When contacted by a Climbing Rangers they were uneasy with
the
descent. The Rangers led them down through the Red Banks and then
assisting
them in descending to approx. 11,000’. An ice axe is a necessary
piece of equipment.
7-13-00
53 year old male was preparing to glissade through
the
Red Banks, when he slipped and began sliding through the chimney.
He
slid out of control and sustained a broken ankle and a laceration to
his
head. He descended on his own to Lake Helen. A Climbing
Ranger
was flown into Lake Helen via Mercy H-1 and performed a thorough
assessment
of climber. The climber was then evacuated via H-1. The
climber
was not wearing crampons at the time of the incident. Only
climbers proficient with self-arrest should attempt to glissade through
the Red Banks
and only when conditions are optimal.
7-18-00
32 year old male broke his proximal tibia and distal
fibula when he stumbled at approx. 11,400’ on his descent of Avalanche
Gulch.
A passing climber reported the incident on his cell phone and then
continued
on his climb- leaving the injured climber alone. Four Climbing
Rangers
and three Siskiyou County SAR volunteers were flown to Lake Helen
(10,400’) via Mercy H-1 and CDF Copter 202. Rescuers carried gear
to the scene
and began to package the patient and prepare to lower him in the SKED
to
Lake Helen. After the patient was lowered to Lake Helen, H-1
evacuated
him and Copter 202 retrieved the rescuers.
7-28-00
Climbing Ranger assisted 3 climbers in descending
through
the Red Banks and down to Lake Helen. The climbers were untrained
and
afraid of the descent.
8-05-00
40 year old male fell while descending Misery Hill
and
landed on the adze of his ice axe. He descended unaided to Lake
Helen
where a Climbing Ranger assessed his condition. He complained of
severe
pain to his lower, left-side ribs. He refused evacuation
assistance
and descended the next morning with the aid of his party.
8-05-00
Climbing Ranger contacted a 35 year old male at the
base
of Misery Hill who complained of extreme nausea and that he had already
vomited
several times. The Ranger suggested that he descend. The
climber
tried to continue his climb, but began to vomit prodigiously. He
descended
to Lake Helen with the Ranger, vomiting occasionally. His
partners
arrived at Helen shortly thereafter, and assisted him in descending to
Bunny
Flat.
8-06-00
Climbing Ranger assisted a 20 year old female down
Avalanche
Gulch from about 12,000’ near The Heart. The individual possessed
no
mountain skills and could not control her speed while glissading in
soft
snow and could not arrest a fall.
8-07-00
Climbing Ranger assisted ??? year old male???
In
descending from the Red Banks-12,400’ to approx. 11,500’. The
individual
was afraid to descend without assistance.
8-07-00
While the Ranger was assisting the (above) climber
he
heard yelling from the other side of The Heart and moved over to
investigate.
The Ranger yelled back but received no response. This occurred
twice.
After descending to approx. 11,500’, the Ranger heard yelling again and
this time with the aid of binoculars, identified the subject. The
subject
was at approx. 12,400’, in a chute east of the Trinity chutes (off of
Casaval
ridge). Apparently the subject was attempting to climb the Left
of
Heart variation and got incredibly off route. The terrain became
increasingly
difficult the higher he climbed (without crampons) and eventually
reached
a ledge where he stopped @ approx. 11 am. He also dropped his ice
axe
during his ascent. The Ranger arrived at his location at approx.
3:30
pm and began to prepare to belay him back down his ascent route.
Meanwhile,
two additional Rangers and Siskiyou SAR personnel staged at the Mercy
hospital
helipad and CHP helicopter H-14 reconned the area.
The chute the subject had somehow climbed was 50
degree
snow that choked down to an ice chute that was nearly vertical for the
last
8-10 feet and surrounded on three sides by vertical cliffs. The
Ranger
belayed the subject approx. 500 vertical feet and then they walked
roped
together another 800 vertical to approx. 11,000’ where they unroped and
descended to Lake Helen. The subject joined his party at Helen
and descended
to Bunny Flat.
8-11-00
Climber was reported missing. He began his
Avalanche
Gulch climb on Monday and planned to be out Thursday. He was
reported
missing by a friend on Friday morning. Climbing Ranger
contacted
individual mid-day on Friday, descending in the Horse Camp area.
Apparently,
he was running late.
8-13-00
16 year old male was reported as having a possible
aneurysm
at approximately 12,000’ in Avalanche Gulch. Members of his and
another
party lowered him down to Lake Helen. The individual was
eventually
evacuated by Mercy helicopter H-1.
8-14-00
30 year old male lost control while glissading and
sustained
a large abrasion on his back. Rangers applied a dressing and
bandage
and the subject descended with the aid of his party.
9-08-00
Two inexperienced climbers fell while climbing the
Left
of Heart route in Avalanche Gulch. They tumbled approximately
1,000’
and sustained bad abrasions and lacerations to hands (they were not
wearing
gloves). They walked out unassisted and drove to the hospital.
9-08-00
Climber was struck by a falling rock at approx.
11,000’
in Avalanche Gulch. He sustained a contusion/hematoma to his leg,
but
walked out unassisted.
9-09-00
Climbing Ranger assisted 7 individuals in descending
around
and through the Red Banks.
9-23-00
36 year old male climber fell from near the 12,000’
level
on the Hotlum/Bolam ridge to approximately the 10,500’ level. Two
Shasta
Mountain Guides were among the first on scene and provided initial
first
aid. He was evacuated by CHP helicopter H-14 and Siskiyou County
SAR personnel. The climber died from his injuries approximately
one week
later, due to major head trauma and c-spine complications. (He
was
wearing a helmet.)
10-01-00
45 year old male sustained a broken ankle while
attempting
to stop the fall a member of his party. His partner fell above
him-
approx. @ 11,500’ Hotlum/Bolam ridge- they slid together a short
distance.
Before they came to a stop, his crampon caught on ice and his ankle
“snapped”. His partners located and used gear from the USFS
rescue cache to splint his
ankle and begin lowering him. County SAR personnel and Climbing
Rangers
assisted in the effort and the patient was eventually evacuated by CHP
helicopter
H-14.
ALL OF THESE INCIDENTS COULD HAVE BEEN
PREVENTED.
PLEASE COME PREPARED TO CLIMB MT.SHASTA! DO NOT UNDER
ESTIMATE
THIS 14,000’ PEAK!!!!!
Back to the Mt. Shasta Wilderness Avalanche and Climbing Advisory homepage