Eric White, Avalanche Specialist
giving
a free transceiver clinic at Bunny Flat Trailhead.
Educational Links:
Award
Winning Avalanche Tutorial from US Forest Service La Sal Avalanche
Forecast Center
Westwide
Avalanche Network Education Page
Mount
Shasta Information
Avalanche
Accident Statistics
One of the goals of the
USDA
Forest Service Mt. Shasta Avalanche Center and Wilderness department is
to educate the public for
safe recreation in the Mountains.
Come by the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station
Monday through Friday, from 8am to 4:30 pm and do virtual climbs on our
computer slide shows of most routes on Mt. Shasta.
For hands on mountaineering training, we recommend taking a class or scheduling a trip with one of the 3 permitted outfitters on Mt. Shasta (Alpine Skills International, Shasta Mountain Guides, Sierra Wilderness Seminars)
ATTENTION CLIMBERS!
Rescue
A climbing party high on Mt. Shasta or any other
mountains cannot depend on any assistance in case of an
emergency. Due to acclimatization restrictions, it could be days
before a ground party could arrive on the scene for a rescue. Clear air
turbulence can often prevent air support, even on good days. For all
practical purposes, a climbing party is alone and must depend upon its
own resources if an emergency situation arises. Injured
or ill persons must often be moved to lower elevations by the remainder
of the group if at all possible. This is for the benefit of the injured
person and to aid in rescue by a ground party or possible evacuation by
aircraft.
The selfless assistance provided by climbers through the years has saved countless lives. This help has not been given without hardships and often causes aborted climbs for the rescue volunteers. All climbers must prepare to be self-sufficient.
Mt. Shasta is within the Mt. Shasta Wilderness area administered by the U. S. Forest Service. Remember, congress set aside the wilderness to be a primitive place that is not affected by motorized or mechanized equipment. In search and rescue situations, helicopters are exempt when there is the possibility of loss to life or limb. Certain conditions (weather, avalanche hazard, terrain, etc.) may preclude any rescue attempt. The determination of when, or even if, a rescue attempt will be made is based on the collective judgment of those who are in charge of the rescue operation. The use of aircraft in a high altitude rescue operation or on steep terrain is difficult and hazardous. Do not delay evacuation if bad weather threatens or if an aircraft evacuation is doubtful. To delay the evacuation of a climber suffering from altitude illness to a lower altitude may prove fatal. Don't pass up the opportunity to descend. Sometimes there are no helicopters available to fly or are grounded due to weather and or mechanical problems.
A rescue by helicopter requires a great deal of risk, effort and expense. The average rescue costs $4,500; some run over three times this amount.
Over the years climbers have requested helicopter
assistance. Frequently, assistance was not possible because of
severe weather, inadequate landing location, or the availability of a
helicopter. These parties were forced to handle their emergencies on
their own. They were able to safely evacuate a climber to a lower
elevation.
Self Sufficiency in Climbing Mt. Shasta
Those who depend upon rescue efforts, strength and
expertise of others to extricate themselves from difficult situations
are inviting disaster. Helicopters and/or acclimatized rescuers are
often not available or the weather prohibits their response. In the Mt.
Shasta Wilderness, travelers should be prepared with knowledge,
equipment, strength and common sense to support their own climbs.
Everyone in your party should carry the ten essentials
and know how to use them:
1. A map of the area.
2. A
compass
3. A
flashlight with extra batteries/bulb
4.
Extra food
5.
Extra clothing, helmet, rain gear, a down jacket and a bivy sack
6.
Sunglasses and sunscreen
7. A
pocketknife
8.
Matches in a waterproof container
9. A
stove and a pot for melting snow to make water
10. A first aid
kit and a cell phone (optional)
All climbing groups confronted with an emergency situation should first consider what they are able to do, and to attempt to handle the situation on their own. Next, they should try to enlist the help of other climbers nearby. Finally, and only when all other options have been exhausted should the group request additional assistance.
If a rescue becomes necessary and the party has
exhausted all means of evacuation, it may request assistance from
Siskiyou County Search
And Rescue by dialing 911. In a rescue situation, parties must
provide
clear concise information.
Parties requesting assistance should provide:
1. Name of your
party
2. Location and
elevation
3. Extent of
illness or injury
4. Current weather
5. Names/locations
of other climbers who can assist
6. Your immediate
plans.
Climber Tips:
*DO NOT CLIMB INTO DETERIORATING WEATHER!
If the weather deteriorates, turn around. Many of
Mt. Shasta’s routes are not technically demanding; however, the weather
can turn bad quickly and when it does it can be very difficult to find
your way back down.
*DO NOT UNDER ESTIMATE!
This is a challenging mountain to climb. This is
not a backpacking or hiking trip. There are many things people
need
to consider when entering a Wilderness area such as Mt.Shasta.
Rescues are not guranteed! Just because you have a cell phone
with you does not insure a timely rescue. Be prepared to wait a
few days before
someone can rescue you. There are many factors that complicate
rescues.
These factors include; weather, terrain, personnel, available aircraft,
and
vehicles. You are responsible for yourself when you enter a
Wilderness
Area such as Mt.Shasta. Think before you commit.
*WAND YOUR ROUTE and CARRY MAP AND COMPASS! They do not guarantee a safe descent, but are very helpful in whiteout conditions. Learn how to use your map and compass BEFORE your climb. Wands: Tomato stakes and flagging are a fairly cheap investment into a safe descent.
*KEEP YOUR PARTY TOGETHER!
Numerous SAR operations have occurred in recent years
after the group has split up- most often leaving one party member
separated from the rest of the group. This has been the number
one reason for people dying on Mt.Shasta.
*CLIMBING SOLO!
There have been and still are many skilled and
accomplished solo climbers/adventurers. Most of these individuals
recognized and accepted the risks associated with these
activities. Novices should be aware that your margin for error is
greatly reduced when climbing alone- a simple turned ankle can turn an
easy descent into an epic adventure or can be fatal.
*CLIMB EARLY and SUMMIT EARLY!
Plan to leave the summit by noon. Most climbers
take 5-6 hours to summit from Lake Helen (10,400’), and 7-9 hours from
Horse
Camp (7,900’) so plan your departure from camp accordingly. Late
climbers run the risk of increased rock fall, ice fall, avalanches –
spring releases are more common in the afternoon hours, being caught in
the dark, caught
high on the mountain during afternoon thunderstorms, and having little
time
margin for error if someone in the party becomes sick or is injured.
*DO NOT GLISSADE WITH CRAMPONS!
Crampons are for climbing, not sliding. MANY
broken, sprained and turned ankles as well as fractured tibias/fibulas
have resulted from glissading with crampons on.
*OTHER FACTORS INCLUDE: climbing in gullies
when the avalanche danger is high, poor physical fitness, lack of
proficiency with crampons and ice axe, poor preparation, equipment,
gear and clothing.