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CONDITIONING PLANT MATERIAL

 

Many thanks to Dottie Howatt and Julia Clevett

for the following information presented at

the Central Atlantic Regional Conference, 2004

 Flowers and foliage are often the innocent victims of zealous exhibitors eager to enter flower shows. They are unceremoniously snatched from the garden or grocery store/florist in a quest to win ribbons in horticulture and design. Selection of the victim is driven primarily by it's surface qualities of color and form with little thought for it's internal mechanisms and the trauma that is progressing at a rapid pace inside these botanical beauties. Exhibitors are always surprised and bewildered when leaves wilt, petals drop, and the ungrateful specimen goes into total decline and dies. The trauma of severing a plant from its roots sets in motion many reactions that may baffle the unwitting exhibitor whose thought process is not geared for treating a plant in shock. Taking the time to understand a little of the physiology of plants and the processes they go through when in crisis will help the exhibitor to better prepare and condition garden and florist specimens for flower shows. This specialized flower show "First Aid" for plants can make the difference between a potential prizewinning exhibit or an exhibit that not so gracefully expires in the middle of the flower show.

I.       Basic Physiology of Plants in Trauma

A.  Plants have a vascular system that is basically a vacuum. Water is drawn up through the plant by a difference in pressure created by the leaves and stem when they lose water through transpiration, process carbohydrates, or create/renew plant parts. Once this vacuum is broken (such as when the roots are severed from the stem) and air is allowed to enter the vascular system the plant loses the ability to supply all the cells with the ideal amount of moisture and carbohydrates required to sustain life.

B.   When plants have been damaged or wounded, the damaged cells release enzymes to signal other cells that a crisis is occurring. One of the first reactions to occur is that undamaged cells create wound hormones which travel to the damaged cells to stop the lose of fluids, create scar tissue, and start the process of creating new cells.

C.   The next biggest plant reaction is to compensate for lose of the water. Water is transported from leaves and stem to the reproductive areas of the plant such as seeds, blooms or fruit. It is the basic instinct of plants to reproduce at any cost. Wilting is the most visible symptom of this reaction. New foliage that has not yet developed strong cell walls is especially vulnerable to cell collapse in a moisture crisis.

D.   Many plants will also protect themselves from further water lose from transpiration by wilting the mature foliage to reduce the amount of surface area exposed to the sun, high temperatures, and drying winds.

E. Finally, all other functions of the plant are halted or greatly reduced during crisis such photosynthesis, growth, and the formation of carbohydrates to conserve energy and save resources.

II.         Primary Goals of Specimen "First Aid"

A. Hydrate the specimen

B. Maintain an open vascular system for transport of moisture and carbohydrates

C. Prevent further cell damage from bruising, dehydration and bacterial invasion

D. Provide some carbohydrates to nourish cells and prevent further shock

E. Keep photosynthesis at a minimum to conserve resources

F. Provide an external environment that maintains specimens in a suspended state

III.       Factors that affect the "First Aid" applied to garden specimens vs. florist flowers

A.   Timing

Gardeners have the advantage of cutting specimens within whatever time frame they consider optimal. Florist flowers are cut days and sometimes weeks ahead to ship to wholesalers. Although florist flowers are generally well conditioned, the aging and cell degradation process is well under way by the time the flowers reach the purchasing exhibitor.

B.   Environment

Most florist flowers are raised in very controlled environments. The plants are protected from disease
and insects and are provided with optima] growing conditions. Garden flowers
on the other hand are subject to the stresses of a natural environment unless there is periodic
intervention by the owner. A garden flower in good condition has more stamina in terms of recovery
from cutting stress but it also has the disadvantage of possibly being infected with insects and disease
that will affect the quality and life span.                                                                                

C.   Handling                                                                                                                                                                            

       Florist flowers are handled many times after being cut. A majority of blooms are shipped "dry-packed" (no water source) and may not be re-cut or conditioned after being received by the wholesalers and retailer. The purchaser is faced with flowers that may be stressed from dehydrated
and bruised from handling. The damage may not always apparent until the blooms warm to room temperature after being in refrigerated coolers or air-conditioned stores. Garden flowers have the distinct advantage of being handled once or twice by one person and being well hydrated for most of
their cut life.

IV.       "First Aid" for Garden Flowers and Foliage

A.   Pre-Cutting Procedures

1.   Water plants thoroughly 24 hrs before cutting. Avoid wetting blooms and foliage.

2.    Spray plants 24 hrs in advance with a pesticide

3.    Select clippers that give a clean cut rather than the anvil type

4.   Wash clippers and collection container with soapy water and Clorox.

5.    Select a cool dark area in the house free of drafts to store and harden cut specimens

B.   Cutting Procedures

                        1.   Cut specimens in the early morning or early evening

                              2.   Be aware of schedule requirements for length of stems and required foliage. Cut longer than is required.

                        3.   Immediately place in collection container

                        4.   Keep container out of sun and wind

                  5.   Do not crowd specimens

C.   "Conditioning" process

1.   Once indoors separate out specimens that need special treatment such those with bleeding or milky stems. Place blooms that have heavy heads in containers that have wire mesh or another type of support across the top.

2.   Carefully remove foliage and debris below the water line in the container to avoid bacterial growth keeping in mind the schedule requirements for foliage. Foliage that is waxy or thick in texture can be submerged completely for short periods of time to obtain maximum water absorption.

3.    Place specimens in selected storage area and let rest for a minimum of 4 hrs but preferably overnight.

4.   Avoid handling or washing specimens until they are fully hydrated

5.   After specimens are fully hydrated or hardened, they can be washed and groomed.

6.   The stem will need to be re-cut every couple days. Blockages are formed from scar tissue and bacterial growth. All efforts should be made not to crush the stem in any way to keep the vascular tissue open and in tact to absorb moisture.

7.   Mist blooms/foliage daily with a spray bottle filled with room temperature water.

D. Optional Conditioning Techniques for Garden Specimens

1.    There is much debate about whether stems should be cut under water to avoid

pushing air up into the vessels. The first cut in the garden definitely introduces air into the vessels so it is up to the exhibitor as to their preference on later cuts.

2.   Conditioning solutions are also an option. There are many garden club recipes and professional mixes but most provide some type of carbohydrate with either Clorox, vinegar or a clarifying agent to keep the bacterial under control. Many feel that some carbohydrates help nourish the specimen since its ability to conduct photosynthesis has been limited and the supply of stored starch is being diminished. On the other hand, plant cells in crisis do very little processing and introducing a solution high in carbohydrates can actually cause dehydration of cellular tissue. A safe option is to just use clear, clean tepid water or if an exhibitor wishes to try a conditioning solution he/she should wait till the specimens have been stabilized and fully hydrated.

3.    Many pamphlets and articles have been written subscribing to the use of alcohol, peppermint oil, Epson salts, alum, table salt and other various produce to condition or revive specific plant material. Common sense should prevail when experimenting with products that will alter the chemistry of a cut specimen already stressed.   Certainly an exhibitor should try these products well ahead of the show to avoid a fatal mistake the day or night before the flower show.

V.         "First Aid" for Florist Flowers and Foliage

A. Home Preparation

Clean conditioning buckets and clippers with a Clorox solution. Have all materials including bloom

supports ready for plant materials before leaving home. B.   Purchasing

1.   Choose your floral supplier carefully. Reputable florists generally buy higher grade floral materials. Grocery stores and large discount stores purchase end lots or lower grade materials. Bargains can be found but generally the blooms are smaller, the stems weaker, and the shelf life shorter.

2.   Purchase plant material that is the freshest and most turgid. The condition of the foliage can be a good indicator of the age of the material. Flowers with foliage that is in poor condition, limp or has been removed should be avoided.

3.   Care should be taken when purchasing floral stems that a majority of the blooms or florets are beginning to break bud and show color. Avoid stems where all the blooms are in tight bud or all the blooms are fully open unless they will be used within 24 hrs. Tropicals with bruised spots on the bloom, even if the bloom is in good condition, should also be avoided. Bruised areas deteriorate rapidly and become very obvious after conditioning.

4.   Special bloom supports such as netting, plastic sleeves, cardboard, and wiring are a plus

when purchasing plant material. These supports protect the bloom from damage and support the neck and stem which may be soft and weak due to dehydration. C.   Transporting

1. Prepare an area in your car where the materials can lay flat and the blooms are protected. A florist box for transport is ideal. Material transported for a short distance do not need to be in water. If not boxed, the flowers should be double wrapped in tissue by the florist to protect from damage.

2.   Purchasing flowers should be the last errand to run. To reduce the trauma of transition from store to home make sure on very hot days the car is cooled and on days the temperature is below freezing, warm the car. Cover the plant material before leaving the florist to protect the material from the wind and freezing temperatures on the way to the car.

3.   Unload flowers first from the car. Cut stems and condition materials within 30 minutes.

D.   Basic Conditioning

1.   Re-cut stems with sharp, clean, clippers, shears or knife. Cutting under water is optional. Florists generally do not re-cut stems after receiving materials from the wholesaler. This extended period after the original first cut means that the stem ends are tightly sealed from wound healing and the interior vascular tissue blocked. Removing an inch of stem will insure that the stem opening is clear and the vascular tissue undamaged. Flowers with bleeding or milky stems do not need to be re-cut if sealed. This material must be submerged in water up to the neck of the bloom to allow hydration through the outer stem wall.

2.   Tropicals and flowers that bloom in temperate warm seasons prefer warm water to begin the conditioning process. Cool weather blooms (e.g., daffodil, tulip) hydrate more rapidly in cold water. Many warm season flowers (such as roses) that have been refrigerated for an extended period respond well to hot water treatments that cause the chilled vascular tissue to expand and take up water.

3.   All bloom supports should be left in place through the conditioning process until the bloom and stem have hardened off. All foliage should be removed below the water line to avoid bacterial growth. Excess foliage above the water can also be removed to conserve moisture. Trim foliage with clippers rather than pulling off to avoid open tears in the stem. Stripping thorns can also leave large wounds that lead to water lose and bacterial invasion.

4.   Avoid bruising and petal damage by not handling, washing or grooming the blooms till fully hydrated or hardened.

5.   Place flowers/foliage in a cool, dark area with no drafts for a minimum of 4 hrs but preferably overnight. Mist all blooms/foliage daily with a spray bottle filled with room temperature water.

E.   Optional Conditioning Techniques for Florist Flowers

1.   Florist flowers should be treated differently than garden flowers because of their age difference and processing for the retail market. Florist flowers, unlike garden flowers, have had a period of time to stabilize from the initial shock of cutting. The cells begin to process again in an attempt to nourish the blooms. Because the cellular tissue can rapidly depleted the stores of carbohydrates with little or no photosynthesis occurring, a conditioning solution with some carbohydrates is beneficial. This solution is best tolerated after the hardening in just plain water. Do not use more than the recommended amount to avoid an adverse effect on the plant material.

2.   Immature terminals on many flowers tend to wilt easily and the buds on these terminals generally will not mature and open after cutting. It has been suggested that removal of these tips will help to conserve moisture and encourage lower, larger lateral blooms to open sooner.

 

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