IPM Prescriptions for Some Common Diseases
of Ornamental Plants and Turfgrasses
Copyright 1995 IPMPA
Following are general IPM prescriptions for some common diseases of ornamental plants, including bacterial canker, brown rot, black spot, rust, powdery mildew, crown gall, sooty mold, tulip blight, damping-off fungus; and turfgrasses, including brown patch, dollar spot, fusarium blight, fusarium patch
(pink snow mold), gray snow mold (typhula blight), red thread, take-all
patch, turf anthracnose.
Description, Biology, Symptoms, and Typical Damage
Cankers are irregularly shaped, brown, water- or gum-soaked areas that
develop in the bark or outer sapwood of branches; twigs at the base of
infected buds and trunks may also be infected. Diseased tissue below the
bark is reddish brown, moist, and sometimes sour smelling. Spread
occurs during prolonged periods of cool, moist, windy weather. Bacteria
overwinter in cankers, buds, and sapstream of the tree. Oozing of gum
from the margins of cankers may be visible as trees begin active growth
in the spring. Affected limbs will either not leaf out in the spring or
produce new growth that dies when temperatures rise in the summer.
Individual limbs and even the entire tree may die if severely diseased.
Trees grown on sandy, shallow, or nitrogen-deficient soils are most
susceptible.
Target/Host
Japanese flowering cherries. Prunus yedoensis 'Akebono' has shown
strong resistance.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural
- Trees grown with adequate nitrogen levels in the soil are more capable
of recovering. Avoid planting susceptible species in shallow or sandy
soils.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid the use of Japanese flowering cherries altogether or at least as a
major design component. If flowering cherries are felt to be necessary
in the context of the design, Prunus yedoensis 'Akebono' should be
considered as a preferred option from a maintenance perspective.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Prune off affected branches at least several centimeters below the
canker in the summer. Severely infected trees should be removed
promptly to prevent spread of the disease.
No known cures exist.
Description, Biology, Symptoms, and Typical Damage
The fungus causes flowers to whither and grows from the infected flowers
back into the twigs, causing shallow cankers that can girdle and kill
the twigs. Overwinters in cankers and blighted blossoms that remain on
the tree. Dead flowers and bark of infected twigs may exude brown,
sticky droplets of gum. Warm, wet weather during bloom can cause
blossom blight and small, velvety, gray or tan tufts of spores on
blossoms. Spores are dispersed by wind and splashing water. Infection
and disease development occurs over a wide temperature range; flowers
may become infected at any time.
Target/Host
Japanese flowering cherries are most severely affected, but flowering
plum and quince are also hosts. Prunus yedoensis 'Akebono' has shown
strong resistance.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Prune in a manner that allows maximum air circulation and drying within
the canopy. Collect and remove potentially infected litter during
spring, summer, and fall.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid the use of Japanese flowering cherries altogether or at least as a
major design component. If flowering cherries are felt to be necessary
in the context of the design, Prunus yedoensis 'Akebono' should be
considered as a preferred option from a maintenance perspective.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Prune off diseased twigs and flowers as soon as they are noticed.
Disinfect tools in a bleach solution after each cut. Severely infected
trees should be removed promptly to prevent spread of the disease.
- Chemical
- No known cures exist once infection has taken place. As a preventive
measure, Bordeaux mixture, other copper-containing fungicides, or
chemical fungicides may be applied at budswell with additional
applications at full bloom and petal all if the weather has been rainy.
Micronized sulfur may also be used; spray during popcorn, full bloom,
and petal fall stages. If Bordeaux mixture is used after leaves begin
developing, use additional lime to minimize damage due to copper
toxicity.
Monitoring
Monitor all flowering cherry trees periodically throughout the year for
signs of the disease (described above). Note the degree of
susceptibility or resistance of various species and varieties.
Description and Biology
Black spot appears as circular black spots 1.5-13 mm in diameter with
fringed margins that sometimes coalesce, forming large, irregular
lesions. Occurs on both sides of leaves and on canes of roses. For infection to
take place, spores must be continually wet for seven hours and symptoms
become visible 3-10 days after infection. New spores can be reproduced
at three week intervals. Optimum infective conditions are temperatures
between 18C-24C and 95% relative humidity. Spores overwinter on
infected canes and fallen leaves. Dispersal is due to rain/irrigation
water, wind, garden tools, and insects.
Target/Host
Roses. Use disease-resistance species/varieties to the extent possible.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Mild infections may only manifest as small black flecks that cause
little damage. Severe infections cause leaves to yellow and drop off,
often defoliating plants by midsummer. Infections on the canes can be
identified as dark blotches on the wood.
Natural Controls
- "Forces of Nature"
- Limiting factors are temperature and humidity levels. (See "Description
and Biology" above.)
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Keep foliage of susceptible roses as dry and well ventilated as
possible. This can be achieved by: using drip rather than overhead
irrigation; watering during sunny days if overhead irrigation is used;
planting in full sun; spacing approximately 1 meter apart; and pruning
to reduce foliage density.
Regular transplanting of roses with the crown located approximately 5 cm
below grade is thought to increase vigor, disease resistance, and winter
hardiness. This causes the plant to root from the crown stock and
avoids basal shoots from the grafted root stock. The ideal time is
early fall but transplanting can occur throughout the dormant season.
- Habitat Modification
- Replace particularly susceptible and problematic plantings with
disease-resistant species/varieties or alternate plant species.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid using rose species/varieties that are known to be particularly
susceptible to diseases as a major design component. If necessary in a
design, locate plants: 1.) on the down side of prevailing winds to
minimize spread of disease to other plants; and/or 2.) in blocks rather
than mixed with varieties that are not as susceptible, to concentrate
plants that may require fungicide treatments.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Prune and burn infected leaves, petals, and canes during the growing
season as soon as detected. If plants have been heavily infected the
previous growing season, prune to within 10-15 cm of the graft.
In mild winters and generally mild climates such as in the coastal
regions of the Pacific Northwest roses may not go fully dormant, making
disease removal more difficult. In this case roses should be "pruned
into dormancy" and rose litter removed in January. Any small, weak wood
that would not support a bloom should be removed. Experience at the
Owen Rose Garden in Eugene, Oregon indicates that healthy canes are
rarely bothered by disease unless located near infested, weak stems.
- Physical
- Mulch rose bushes after fall cleanup and again after mid-winter pruning.
This helps to contain spores under the mulch to minimize dispersal.
- Chemical
- Safer Natural Garden Fungicide is a new fatty acid-based soap product
that is reported to be effective at preventing the onset of black spot
but will not control the disease once it has developed. Where black
spot is historically a problem, apply to all new growth every 10-14 days
as a preventive measure. This new product is not phytotoxic to roses
and also kills pest mites but not beneficial mites.
Sulfur can aid in the control of black spot when used in conjunction
with the other non-chemical methods described. If conventional
fungicides are permitted and become necessary, limit their application
to individual plants (i.e, it is not necessary to treat unsusceptible
varieties). They have a tendency to cause secondary outbreaks of pest
mites.
"Most of the available fungicides [including sulfur] are more effective
at preventing infections rather than at curing them. Thus, to protect
roses and keep use of fungicides to a minimum, it is important to time
treatments to coincide with periods of optimum temperature, humidity,
and rainfall, as well as with the growth stage of the rose. . . .
Remember that roses are most susceptible to infection when they are in a
state of rapid growth. By becoming aware of the growth cycles of your
plants - in spring and early summer, moderate growth in midsummer and a
possible surge of growth in late summer- and by correlating these cycles
with weather patterns that encourage disease development, you will learn
how often it is necessary to apply fungicides." (Olkowski, Daar, and
Olkowski)
Monitoring
"Begin in spring when temperatures approach the mid-60s and rainfall and
humidity are high. Look for signs of dark-colored spots on the surfaces
of leaves near the ground and on young leaves, stalks, and flower buds
at the top of the plant. . . Continue periodic monitoring during flushes
of new growth." (Olkowski, Daar, and Olkowski)
Description and Biology
Rust appears as small orange or yellow pustules occurring primarily on
leaves. The disease initially appears on the undersides of leaves and
if the condition worsens both sides of the leaves become covered.
Optimum conditions for rust infection are temperatures between 18C and
21C with two to four hours of constant moisture. Overwintering spores
are black, appearing on the leaves and canes in the fall.
Rust overwinters inside infected canes and points of infection are
observed as dark, corky blotches. Distribution of the spores is through
wind and water.
Target/Host
Roses and other ornamental shrubs. Use disease-resistance
species/varieties to the extent possible.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Aesthetic damage occurs as the disease spreads to upper leaf surfaces,
sometimes covering a significant portion of the canopy. Severe
infestations can cause defoliation of affected leaves.
Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Keep foliage of susceptible roses as dry as possible. This can be
achieved by: using drip rather than overhead irrigation; watering
during sunny days if overhead irrigation is used; planting in full sun;
spacing approximately one meter apart; and pruning to reduce foliage
density.
- Habitat Modification
- Replace particularly susceptible and problematic plantings with
disease-resistant species/varieties or alternate plant species.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid using rose species/varieties that are known to be particularly
susceptible to diseases as a major design component.
Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Prune and burn infected leaves, petals, and canes during the growing
season as soon as detected. If plants have been heavily infected the
previous growing season, prune to within 10-15 cm of the graft. In mild
winters and generally mild climates such as in the coastal regions of
the Pacific Northwest roses may not go fully dormant, making disease
removal more difficult. In this case roses should be "pruned into
dormancy" and rose litter removed in January. Any small, weak wood that
would not support a bloom should be removed. Experience at the Owen
Rose Garden in Eugene, Oregon indicates that healthy canes are rarely
bothered by disease unless located near infested, weak stems.
- Physical
- Mulch rose bushes after fall cleanup and again after mid-winter pruning.
This helps to contain spores under the mulch to minimize dispersal.
- Chemical
- Safer Natural Garden Fungicide is a new fatty acid-based soap product
that is reported to be effective at preventing and eradicating rust.
Apply every 7-14 days when humidity is high and temperatures are
approximately 20C. See prescription for black spot for further
information regarding this product. Sulfur is also helpful for control
of rust but should be used in conjunction with the other non-chemical
methods described. If conventional fungicides are permitted and become
necessary, limit their application to individual plants.
Monitoring
Look for pustules on the undersides of new leaves early in the spring.
Description, Biology, Symptoms, and Typical Damage
Powdery mildew first becomes evident as raised blister-like areas that
cause leaves to curl inward; later a gray-white powdery fungus is
present on the leaves and flower buds.
Optimum conditions for the disease are nighttime temperatures of 16C
with a relative humidity between 95 and 99%, and daytime temperatures of
27C with 40-70% relative humidity. Cloudy and foggy periods enhance the
growth of the disease.
Overwinters inside leaf buds on canes, especially just below infected
flowers. Dispersal is by wind. Young, succulent growth is preferred;
mature tissue is usually not affected.
Target/Host
Roses, azaleas, euonymus, hydrangea, aster, chrysanthemum, phlox,
verbena, turf, and other common ornamental landscape plants.
Natural Controls
- "Forces of Nature"
- Limiting factors are temperature and humidity levels. (See "Description
and Biology" above.)
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Avoid heavy applications of high nitrogen fertilizer and heavy pruning
during the growing season. This causes excessive succulent and weak new
growth which is ideal habitat for powdery mildew.
- Habitat Modification
- Replace particularly susceptible and problematic plantings with
disease-resistant species/varieties or alternate plant species.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid using species/varieties that are known to be particularly
susceptible to diseases as a major design component. Choose varieties
of susceptible species known to be resistant to powdery mildew.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Powdery mildew cannot survive if there is a film of water on the leaves
or stems. Washing new growth with a heavy stream of water removes
spores and also helps prevent remaining spores from germinating. Begin
as soon as conditions are conducive to growth of the disease at
intervals of once or twice a week for a few minutes; early afternoon is
the best time. Continue until new growth matures and resume when other
flushes of new growth coincide with favorable environmental conditions
for the disease. Although wetting the plants can enhance the likelihood
of black spot and rust, optimum conditions for both diseases typically
do not occur simultaneously.
Prune and burn infected leaves, petals, and canes during the growing
season as soon as detected. If plants have been heavily infected the
previous growing season, prune to within 10-15 cm of the graft. In mild
winters and generally mild climates such as in the coastal regions of
the Pacific Northwest roses may not go fully dormant, making disease
removal more difficult. In this case roses should be "pruned into
dormancy" and rose litter removed in January. Any small, weak wood that
would not support a bloom should be removed. Experience at the Owen
Rose Garden in Eugene, Oregon indicates that healthy canes are rarely
bothered by disease unless located near infested, weak stems.
- Physical
- Mulch rose bushes and other susceptible shrubs after fall cleanup and
again after mid-winter pruning. This helps to contain spores under the
mulch to minimize spread.
- Biological
- Research relating to the use of several fungus species as biocontrols
for powdery mildew is being conducted at the University of Oregon and in
Israel.
- Chemical
- Safer Natural Garden Fungicide is a new fatty acid-based soap product
that is reported to be effective at preventing and eradicating powdery
mildew. Apply every 7-14 days during cool, dry weather when roses are
in an active growth phase. This new product is not phytotoxic to roses
and most other ornamental plants and also kills pest mites but not
beneficial mites.
Antitranspirants (e.g., Wilt Pruf) form a barrier between disease spores
and leaves. Various research and field tests, including at Longwood
Gardens in Delaware, have indicated antitranspirants to be at least as
effective as conventional fungicides in controlling powdery mildew.
However, further research is needed to confirm this, refine application
timing and techniques, and verify that the antitranspirants don't cause
any undesirable effects when used in this matter in various climates.
Baking soda may also be effective at controlling powdery mildew;
research is being conducted in Japan and by the Henry Doubleday Research
Society in Great Britain. Sulfur is effective at controlling powdery
mildew and can be used in conjunction with the other non-chemical
methods described.
If conventional fungicides are necessary, limit their application to
individual plants. They have a tendency to cause secondary outbreaks of
pest mites. (See Black Spot prescription for quote from Olkowski, Daar,
and Olkowski about fungicides.)
Monitoring
"Begin [monitoring] in spring when temperatures approach the mid-60s without any
rainfall. Check growing tips and young leaves for signs of powdery
growth." (Olkowski, Daar, and Olkowski)
Description and Biology
A bacterial disease caused by Agrobacterium tumefaciens. Appears to
infect plants only through wounds such as those caused by cultivation or
insect feeding. The disease is most active during warm months and lives
in the soil, in galls, and on the surface of infected plants. The
bacteria is capable of surviving in the soil or on dead tissue for up to
3 years. Infections are more likely in alkaline rather than acidic
soils.
Target/Host
Rose, euonymus, honeysuckle, wisteria, aster, daisy, chrysanthemum, and
many other species, particularly plants in the rose family.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Rough, warty galls of 5 cm or greater develop on roots and/or lower
stems, especially at graft unions. Plants become weakened or stunted.
Damage is most severe where crown gall has already been present and
where infected plants are allowed to remain, and is particularly serious
on young plants.
Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Avoid wounding susceptible plants during cultivation to the extent
possible. When pruning away infected parts of plants, tools should be
disinfected regularly to prevent further spread.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid using susceptible plant species in beds that are known to be
infected. As a preventive measure, thoroughly inspect nursery stock for
symptoms prior to planting and only obtain nursery stock of susceptible
species that have been treated with the microbial pesticide
Agrobacterium radiobacter (e.g., Galltrol). "Crown gall can be largely
prevented if you select plants free of galls and avoid injury to the
roots and trunk during planting." (Harris)
Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Galls should be pruned out and destroyed whenever detected. Severely
infected plants should be removed, particularly when planted near other
susceptible species (i.e., in a rose garden).
- Biological
- Young plants are effectively protected when treated with a root dip
solution of Agrobacterium radiobacter (e.g., Galltrol). Susceptible
species that have already been planted may be treated with a soil drench
to prevent future infection. However, any previous infection will not
be controlled.
- Chemical
- Soil fumigation treatments have been used with limited success due to
the difficulty in killing all of the bacteria and the ability of the
residual organisms to rapidly multiply in the soil following such
treatment.
Monitoring
Monitor most carefully for the occurrence of crown gall in collections
of susceptible species (e.g., rose gardens) to increase the likelihood
of early detection and treatment, thereby minimizing the chances of
spreading the disease to other plants in the process of cultivation and
pruning.
Description and Biology
A saprophytic, dark black mycelium that feeds on honeydew (insect
excretions, primarily from aphids and scales).
Target/Host
Plants infested with aphids, scales, and other honeydew-producing
insects. Also, plants that have honeydew falling on them from infested
shrubs and trees above.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Does not directly infect affected plants. Damage is largely aesthetic
but can affect health of plants by inhibiting photosynthesis.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Exclude ants if they are guarding honeydew-producing pests.
- Habitat Modification
- See description under manual treatment strategy below.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid using plants that are known to be particularly susceptible to
aphids and scales as a major design component. If trees prone to aphid
or scale infestation are used, avoid placing ornamental plants
underneath. Such trees would best be used in a large grassy area away
from other plants.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Remove honeydew and mold by washing leaves with soapy water.
Description, Biology, Symptoms, and Typical Damage
Leaves and flowers become flecked with small brown spots. When bulb is
infected entire plant is dwarfed and becomes pale yellowish-green with
blasted flowers. As rot develops a light gray discoloration bordered by
brown margins may occur on leaves and flower stalks. Large areas of
leaves may be affected and flower stalks can rot off completely. A gray
mold may develop on diseased parts in moist weather. Dark brown
sclerotia at the base of stems and on outer bulb scales will be present,
which carries the fungus through the winter or other unfavorable
conditions.
Target/Host
Tulip spp. and hybrids.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Monitor for diseased bulbs and discard. Do not plant tulips where
previously infected plants have been grown. Buy new bulbs each year
rather than saving dug bulbs. "Early removal of infected plants is
essential. As soon as the disease appears in a bed, individual plants
should be removed in such a way as to avoid scattering the spores or
leaving parts of infected bulbs in the soil. Destroy all blossoms and
leaves that show infection. If bulbs are to be planted where diseased
plants have been grown, the soil should be replaced, steam-pasteurized,
or treated with an appropriate chemical. Avoid the application of too
much nitrogenous fertilizer." (Pirone)
- Design and Construction
- Avoid using tulips as a major design component in areas where tulip
blight has previously occurred.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Remove infected plants immediately upon detection of disease.
- Chemical
- Frequent applications of the fungicides Botran and Fore have been
demonstrated to be very effective, but in rainy springs thorough
applications are necessary as often as every three days. However, this
is not considered a valid treatment strategy within the context of an
IPM program.
Monitoring
Inspect bulbs before planting, including removal of outer bulb scales to
show any diseased spots on scales underneath.
Description, Biology, Symptoms, and Typical Damage
Caused by a soil-borne fungus (Rhizoctonia spp.). New seedlings are
attacked at or just below the soil line by a watery rot, causing tissues
to shrink rapidly and the seedlings to fall over. High humidity and
wet, poorly drained soils with a high nitrogen content encourage the
disease.
Target/Host
Any seedlings grown in infected soil and humid conditions.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Avoid sowing seeds too close or deep in the soil when possible. Provide
well-drained soil and avoid overwatering. Expose plants to sunlight so
they can keep dry. Inoculating seeds with Trichoderma (present in
preparations of "compost tea", some commercial soil amendments, etc.)
has shown good results in preventing damping-off. Soaking seed in a
brine or wood ash and lime solution for several hours is a traditional
method of minimizing occurrence of the disease.
- Habitat Modification
- Use pasteurized soil, either purchased new or treated in an oven.
Disinfect tools by soaking for thirty minutes in a household bleach
solution (one part bleach to nine parts water) or hot water.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Chemical
- A 2 percent solution of household bleach (2 1/2 ounces bleach per gallon
of water) applied as a soil drench can halt the development of the
fungus in flats of cuttings and seedlings. (Olkowski, Daar, and
Olkowski) Oxine benzoate (e.g., No Damp) mixed in with irrigation water
for seeds and seedlings has also shown effectiveness. A reader in Fine
Gardening magazine reports effective control results with chamomile tea
(1 bag/4 cups of water steeped for 24 hours to make a strong solution;
apply with a mister to seedlings as soon as they appear until the second
set of leaves have developed).
(Brown patch, dollar spot, fusarium blight, fusarium patch/pink snow
mold, gray snow mold/typhula blight, red thread, take-all patch, turf
anthracnose)
General Discussion
In order for turfgrass diseases to actively infect the turf, all of the
following factors need to be present: the disease organism, a host
plant, favorable environmental conditions, and a means of distribution
of the spores.
Other factors that trigger most turf disease are: high relative
humidity and/or the movement of surface water over the grass for a long
enough period of time (usually 18 hours or more) to allow spores to
germinate and infect the grasses; optimum range of temperature; nutrient
levels; mowing in general, which opens the grass to pathogens, and
mowing too short for the grass species; insufficient aeration; excessive
thatch buildup; frequent applications of insecticides, herbicides, and
even fungicides (thatch decomposition is reduced due to the absence or
low level of earthworms and decomposing microorganisms).
Most turf disease fungi live in the soil and thatch layer and feed off
of living or dead plant or animal matter. Most of these fungi produce
spores, sclerotia, or stromata that are spread by wind, water, or
mechanically and then grow and multiply into mycelia. The diseases
break down plant tissues to the point that the tissues are unable to
function normally. More spores or other reproductive parts are produced
and the cycle continues.
The critical role of healthy turf and soil in minimizing the occurrence
and severity of turf diseases is increasingly becoming better understood
and practices that create overall soil health are being more commonly
applied for this reason, especially in regards to golf course turf
management.
Description, Biology, Symptoms, and Typical Damage
Ideal conditions for brown patch are when daytime temperatures are above
29C and 16C at night in combination with 6-8 hour periods of wet turf.
Typically appears as irregularly brown patches that range from several
centimeters to a few meters in diameter. When humidity is high, the
patch may be surrounded by a ring of fungal mycelium that disappears
when the foliage dries out. The centers of the patches sometimes
recover, forming a "halo" or "smoke ring" of diseased grass. Infected
leaves appear dark and water-soaked initially and eventually dry out and
turn brown. Infected tissues rapidly collapse and shrivel from exposure
to sun and wind. Brown or black fruiting bodies sometimes occur on
stolons and under sheaths. The sclerotia (hyphal masses) are highly
resistant to fungicides. The disease is exacerbated with very low
mowing heights and unbalanced soil fertility.
Target/Host
Bentgrass, bluegrass, fescue, ryegrass, bermudagrass, and zoysia.
Bluegrass shows a higher degree of recovery due to its underground
rhizomes.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Irrigate in the early morning to minimize wet grass at night and
infrequently but deeply during hot weather. Follow a good turfgrass
cultural program. Avoid mowing too low for the species (often not
feasible in golf course situations). Fertility management is very
important. Avoid high levels of nitrogen and low levels of phosphorous,
potassium, and calcium. Do not allow excessive thatch buildup. Poor
drainage substantially increases the severity of the disease. Dew is
thought to play a major role in the development of the disease; poling,
syringing, and other dew removal techniques and the use of hydrated lime
can substantially reduce brown patch. Overseed with disease-resistant
varieties as appropriate to site and use conditions and existing species
planted. (See "Design and Construction" below for grass varieties
resistant to brown patch.)
- Habitat Modification
- See "Cultural Management" above. Where practical, soil solarization of
diseased areas at temperatures of 45-50C to a depth of 10 cm will
destroy the disease while leaving many beneficial organisms unharmed.
- Design and Construction
- Use disease-resistant varieties when appropriate to site and use
conditions. Grass varieties reported to be resistant to brown patch
are: perennial ryegrass - All Star, Barry, Citation, Delray, Manhattan
II, Palmer, Pennant, Prelude, Premier, Yorktown II; tall fescue -
Brookston, Jaguar, Mustang, Olympic.
Proper construction of the soil base is important to ensure good
drainage, air interchange, and overall soil health.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Biological
- Research has indicated that soil inoculation of Trichoderma may slow or
prevent the development of brown patch. An organic soil amendment
called Dis-Patch has been developed specifically for brown patch. Field
trials of these materials may be useful in determining their effectiveness.
- Chemical
- Many conventional fungicides are available for control of this disease.
Neem oil used as a soil drench has shown some promise in inhibiting the
growth of various diseases, including Rhizoctonia, but is not yet
registered for use as a fungicide. Fungicidal soap (e.g., Safer Natural
Garden Fungicide) is a new product and may become a useful tool for
control of brown patch in the future.
Description, Biology, Symptoms, and Typical Damage
Dollar spot can occur at temperatures from 15-25C. Individual spots
are bleached to straw-colored, range in size from that of a quarter to a
dollar, and commonly coalesce to form large diseased areas. A fluffy,
gray-white mycelium sometimes appears on fresh spots in the early
morning when turf is wet. Infection takes place only on the foliage.
Leaf spots occur over the entire width of the blade and are bleached to
light tan with reddish brown margins, except with annual bluegrass. The
disease overwinters in thatch. Turf that is deficient in nutrients, warm
days, and cool nights are factors that favor development. Infected
grass clippings, mowers, and foot traffic aid in spreading the disease.
"Dollar spot is one of the most destructive diseases of closely mown
turf, especially creeping bentgrass." (Turgeon)
Target/Host
Most turfgrasses, especially bentgrasses.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Avoid calcium deficiency and excessive alkalinity. Highly soluble
nitrogen fertilizers should not be used just before and during warm
weather. Provide a proper balance of soil nutrients, especially
nitrogen. Removal of dew on golf courses in the early morning reduces
the severity of the disease. Provide adequate drainage hrough aeration,
topdressing, and other soil structure improvement methods. Irrigate
early in the morning so grass can dry out before nightfall and during
warm weather irrigate infrequently but deeply. Especially avoid
puddling. Do not allow excessive thatch buildup. Infected grass
clippings should be removed to help prevent further spread of the
disease. Overseed with disease-resistant varieties as appropriate to
site and use conditions and existing species planted. (See "Initial
Design" below for grass varieties resistant to dollar spot.
- Habitat Modification
- See "Cultural Management" above. Where practical, soil solarization of
diseased areas at temperatures of 45-50C to a depth of 10 cm will
destroy the disease while leaving many beneficial organisms unharmed.
- Design and Construction
- Proper construction of the soil base is important to ensure good
drainage, air interchange and overall soil health.
Use disease-resistant species and varieties when appropriate to site and
use conditions. Tall fescue in general is less susceptible to dollar
spot. Grass varieties reported to be resistant to dollar spot are:
fine fescue - Agram, Barfalla, Biljart, Checker, Encota, Famosa, Koket,
Reliant, Scaldis, Shadow, Tournament; Kentucky bluegrass - Adelphi,
America, Aquila, Arista, Bonnieblue, Bristol, Eclipse, Galaxy, Geary,
Majestic, Midnight, Newport, Palouse, Parade, Park, Pennstar, Prato,
Primo, Sodco, Windsor; perennial ryegrass - Barry, Capper, Caravelle,
Citation, Dasher, Ensporta, Exponent, Linn, Manhattan II, NK-100,
NK-200, Regal, Rex, Sprinter, Venlona.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Biological
- Research has indicated that soil inoculation of Trichoderma may slow or prevent the development of dollar spot. Organic soil amendments that
have been enhanced with beneficial microorganisms show promise in
preventing or arresting the disease. Field trials of these materials
may be useful in determining their effectiveness.
- Chemical
- Experiments of drenching with a household bleach solution of 1 oz.
bleach per 4 gallons of water have shown reduction, but not elimination,
of the disease. Neem oil used as a soil drench has shown some promise
in inhibiting the growth of the disease but is not registered for use as
a fungicide. Fungicidal soap may also become a useful tool for control
of dollar spot. Many conventional fungicides are available.
Description, Biology, Symptoms, and Typical Damage
A warm season disease that occurs at temperatures between 20-40C. All
parts of the plant can become infected. Infected turf begins as dark
blue to purple wilted grass that eventually turns a light tan. These
spots of dead and dying grass are initially 5 cm in diameter but can
increase to 60 cm in diameter. A common symptom called "frog-eye" can
occur, which means healthy grass remains in the center of the spots with
a ring of dead turf surrounding it. A pinkish mycelium can be seen on
the surface of the crown during conditions of high soil moisture.
Fusarium blight is very similar to summer patch and it is often hard to
distinguish between the two.
Target/Host
Colonial and creeping bentgrass, bluegrass, fine fescue. Severe on
bluegrass and fescue mixes.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Design and Construction
- Proper construction of the soil base is important to ensure good
drainage, air interchange and overall soil health. Use disease-resistant
varieties when appropriate to site and use conditions. Grass varieties
reported to be resistant to fusarium blight are: Kentucky bluegrass -
Columbia. Adelphi and A-20 are less susceptible than Merion and
Touchdown. Kentucky bluegrass mixes that include 10-15% by weight
perennial ryegrass also show resistance.
- Cultural Management
- Overseed perennial ryegrass and tall fescue into susceptible
bluegrasses. Fall nitrogen fertilization and biologically active soil
conditioners (e.g., Ringer's Lawn Restore) aid in recovery. Fusarium
blight seems more prevalent on drought-stress turf.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Chemical
- Fenarimol or iprodine in conjunction with the application of nitrogen.
Description, Biology, Symptoms, and Typical Damage
Fusarium patch, or pink snow mold, can develop at temperatures below
16C but spreads rapidly at temperatures of 0-16C when conditions are
overcast or shady, and wet. Areas of poor soil drainage and air
movement are especially predisposed to this disease. Damage is also
exacerbated by lush, tall growth in the late fall and frost injury. It
is usually not a problem if there is enough sun to sustain carbohydrate
levels in the grass. Also, it becomes inactive when the turf warms up
and dries during a break in cool, moist weather. The appearance of the
disease varies, depending on whether snow is present or not. If there
is no snow, it appears as reddish-brown 2.5-20 cm circular spots. When
underneath snow they are 5 cm to 0.6 m in diameter and tan to
whitish-gray or reddish brown. Pink mycelia around the margins are
sometimes present as soon as the snow melts.
Target/Host
Most cool season grasses including perennial ryegrass, creeping
bentgrass, fescues, and bluegrass.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Avoid excessive application of nitrogen in the fall to prevent the turf
from actively growing as cold weather approaches. Adequate drainage is
important; fall aeration aids soil drainage through the winter. Avoid
thatch buildup, especially in the fall. Remove grass clippings and mow
at normal height during the last mowing of the season. "Adequate levels
of potash and low pH seem to suppress the disease." (Decker) Overseed
with disease-resistant varieties as appropriate to site conditions and
existing species planted. (See "Design and Construction" below for
grass varieties resistant to fusarium patch.)
- Design and Construction
- Proper construction of the soil base is important to ensure good
drainage, air interchange and overall soil health.
Use disease-resistant varieties when appropriate to site and use
conditions. Grass varieties reported to be resistant to fusarium patch
are: fine fescue - Barfalla, Biljart, Jade, Jamestown, Koket, Scaldis;
Kentucky bluegrass - Adelphi, Admiral, Apex, Birka, Bonnieblue, Classic,
Destiny, Fylking, Glade, Julia, Lovegreen, Monopoly, Nassau, Ram I,
Shasta, Victa; perennial ryegrass - All*Star, Barenza, Birdie II,
Blazer, Cockade, Cowboy, Diplomat, Eton, Fiesta, Game, Gator, Lamora,
Manhattan, NK-200, Norlea, Omega, Palmer, Pelo, Pennant, Prelude,
Premier, Repel, Regal, Sprinter, Tara, Wendy, Yorktown II.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Biological
- Research has indicated that soil inoculation of Trichoderma may slow or
prevent the development of fusarium patch.
- Chemical
- Many conventional fungicides are available for control of this disease.
Iron sulfate solutions may be used to drench areas where snow mold is a
problem. (Mix 14 g ferrous iron sulfate per gallon of water and the
solution must be used immediately because it only takes a half hour for
the mixture to change into an ineffective form.) Neem oil used as a
soil drench has shown some promise in inhibiting the growth of various
diseases but is not registered for use as a fungicide. Fungicidal soap
(e.g., Safer Natural Garden Fungicide) is a new product and may become a
useful tool for control of brown patch in the future.
Description, Biology, Symptoms, and Typical Damage
The disease can occur at temperature of 0-4C when the ground is unfrozen
and soil moisture is high. The fungi is inactive in the summer but
present on infected leaves as small, dark-colored sclerotia. Circular,
grayish to brown spots 7.5 cm-0.6 m across develop as the snow melts.
Immediately after the snow melts fuzzy gray-white mycelia may be seen,
particularly along the margins of the spots.
Target/Host
Most cool season grasses, including fescues, ryegrass, and bluegrass.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Forces of Nature
- Increasing temperatures and decreasing moisture conditions quickly
arrest the disease.
- Cultural Management
- Avoid excessive application of nitrogen in the fall to prevent the turf
from actively growing as cold weather approaches. Fall aeration aids
soil drainage through the winter. Avoid thatch buildup, especially in
the fall and remove grass clippings during the last mowing of the
season.
- Design and Construction
- Proper construction of the soil base is important to ensure good
drainage, air interchange and overall soil health.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Biological
- Research has indicated that soil inoculation of Trichoderma may slow or prevent the development of gray snow mold.
- Chemical
- Many conventional fungicides are available for control of this disease.
Iron sulfate solutions may be used to drench areas where snow mold is a
problem. (Mix 14 g ferrous iron sulfate per gallon of water and the
solution must be used immediately because it only takes a half hour for
the mixture to change into an ineffective form.) Neem oil used as a
soil drench has shown some promise in inhibiting the growth of various
diseases but is not registered for use as a fungicide. Fungicidal soap
(e.g., Safer Natural Garden Fungicide) is a new product and may become a
useful tool in the future.
Description, Biology, Symptoms, and Typical Damage
Occurs during cool wet weather in spring and fall; temperatures of
20-28C; high humidity with dew, drizzle, fog, and/or prolonged periods
of rain. Leaves and leaf sheaths are the only parts of the plant
affected and at points of infection small water-soaked spots that
enlarge rapidly can be seen. Infected grass has rusty, red, or pink
threads of mycelium that extend from the tips of the blades during final
stages of the disease and are most conspicuous when turf is wet. Takes
the form of circular to irregular ragged patches of scorched leaf tips 5
cm to 1 m across. Less severe on vigorously growing as compared to
slower growing grasses.
Target/Host
Perennial ryegrass, red fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, colonial bentgrass,
creeping bentgrass, velvet bentgrass, annual bluegrass, and bermudagrass
are most susceptible.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Supply adequate levels of nitrogen as well as balanced overall soil
fertility. "Red thread is most severe where potassium, phosphorous,
calcium, and especially nitrogen are deficient. Avoid overstimulation
with fertilizer, particularly with a quickly available, high nitrogen
product." (Shurtleff et al.) Infected leaf tips are removed by regular
mowing which lessens severity of the disease. Regular, deep irrigation
tends to make turf less susceptible. Maintain soil pH between 6.5 and
7.0. Overseeding with hard fescues is common where red thread is a
serious problem.
- Design and Construction
- Use disease-resistant varieties when appropriate to site and use
conditions. Grass varieties reported to be resistant to red thread are:
fine fescue - Argenta, Aurora, Banner, Barfalla, Bighorn, Biljart,
Cascade, Center, Centurion, Engina, Ensilva, Epsom, Fortress, Gracia,
Grello, Highlight, Ivalo, Jade, Logro, Magenta, Mary, Pennlawn, Puma,
Ranier, Reliant, Ruby, Scaldis, Scarlet, Sparta, SR 3000, Tamara, Valda,
Veni, Victory, Waldina, Waldorf, Weekend, Wintergreen; Kentucky
bluegrass - Adelphi, Admiral, Arista, Birka, Bonnieblue, Bristol,
Campus, Cello, Challenger, Cougar, Delta, Dormie, Eclipse, Geary,
Georgetown, Majestic, Monopoly, Nassau, Newport, Palouse, Primo, Sodco,
Touchdown, Trenton; perennial ryegrass - Barenza, Birdie, Blazer,
Clipper, Commander, Competitor, Ensporta, Eton, Exponent, Lamora,
NK-100, NK-200, Norlea, Perma, Player, Regency, Score, Sprinter, SR
4000, SR 4100, Venlona, Wendy.
Proper construction of the soil base is important to ensure good
drainage, air interchange and overall soil health.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Chemical
- Many fungicides are labeled for control of red thread. No other direct
control measures are available.
Description, Biology, Symptoms, and Typical Damage
Infection takes place in late spring and resembles other patch diseases
until it has spread. During stressful summer conditions, circular or
ring-shaped dead spots occur. A key identifying characteristic is red
leaf blades in stressed grass at the perimeter of the patch along with
bronze to reddish brown grass that fades to a dull brown to gray.
Unlike brown patch, take-all disease patches recur in the same location
year after year, enlarging with each successive year by about 15 cm
until they reach a diameter of over 1 meter. The disease is
particularly prevalent on wet, poorly drained, and unbalanced pH soils,
and sand putting greens.
Target/Host
Bentgrass, bluegrasses, ryegrasses, red and tall fescues.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Remove diseased patches and re-sod. Regrade soil where water ponding is
a problem. Provide good drainage and irrigation practices. Incorporate
3-4 pounds of actual elemental sulfur per 1,000 square feet into the top
several inches of soil before reseeding. Balanced soil fertility is
important; fertilizer types and formulas should be selected based on
soil testing. "Avoid overliming. Apply lime only when absolutely
needed on bentgrasses (pH below about 5.0), using a slowly dissolving
type (100 mesh or coarser). For fertilizer, use ammonium sulfate,
monoammonium phosphate, ammonium chloride, muriate of potash (KCL), or
other sulfur-bearing material containing nitrogen to maintain the pH at
5.5 or slightly below. Three to five pounds per 1,000 square feet of
actual elemental sulfur in several split applications is often
recommended for each growing season where take-all patch is a serious
problem." (Shurtleff, et al.) Avoid excessive thatch buildup.
"Take-all patch is often more severe where thatch has built up and the
soil has been fumigated. This is probably due to the killing off of
organisms antagonistic or parasitic on the take-all fungus."
(Shurtleff, et al.)
- Design and Construction
- 'Putter' creeping bentgrass is resistant to take-all patch, however,
reportedly may not provide a sufficient quality turf.
Proper construction of the soil base is important to ensure good
drainage, air interchange and overall soil health.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Chemical
- Rovral and Easout fungicides have shown effectiveness in treating
infestations. "Applications of ammonium sulfate or sulfur to lower the
soil pH have been the most effective means of reducing the severity of
this disease." (Turgeon)
Description, Biology, Symptoms, and Typical Damage
Attacks leaves and sometimes crowns and roots during wet, humid periods,
particularly when the turf is stressed. Produces stem lesions in cool,
wet weather and reddish-brown lesions on the leaves in warm, wet
weather. Turf becomes blighted, turning yellow to brown in irregular
patches several centimeters to several meters wide. Ruptured lesions of
dead leaves have tiny black, hairlike fruiting bodies.
Target/Host
Most severe on annual bluegrass. Various strains appear to be quite
host specific; sometimes attacking only one of the susceptible species
present.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Avoid overfertilization, especially during hot, dry periods. Ensure
adequate nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Provide deep, morning
irrigation.
- Design and Construction
- Proper construction of the soil base is important to ensure good
drainage, air interchange and overall soil health.
Use disease-resistant varieties when appropriate to site and use
conditions. Grass varieties reported to be resistant to red thread are:
creeping bentgrass - some strains are highly resistant or even immune;
hard fescue - Aurora, Reliant, Spartan, Waldina.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Chemical
- Several fungicides are labeled for control of turf anthracnose. No other
direct control measures are available.
Last Modified: Monday, August 14, 1995 - 1:31:00 PM
Source: IPM Access - An Integrated Pest Management Online Service
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