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![](https://webarchive.library.unt.edu/eot2008/20090116074818im_/http://wave.oregonstate.edu/Research/images/surf_zone_turbulence.jpg)
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Surf Zone Turbulence (Spring/Summer 2004).
We studied the turbulence generated by waves breaking on a fixed barred beach,
including comprehensive measurements of waves and water velocities under both random and regular waves. We found that wave-breaking turbulence
was greatest at the bar crest and did not fully dissipate prior to reaching the bed. Also, a comparison of methods
used to separate the wave-induced and turbulent components of velocity found that the differencing
method (Trowbridge, 1998) appears to be the most suitable for application to random waves,
such as those observed in the field.
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![](https://webarchive.library.unt.edu/eot2008/20090116074818im_/http://wave.oregonstate.edu/Research/images/wave_power3.jpg)
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Wave Power Senior Design Project (Mar 2004).
Undergraduate and graduate students tested their first prototype wave power buoy in the Large Wave Flume. The buoy was designed and fabricated as part of an EECS/ME senior design course (ECE 441, mentored by Prof. A. Von Jouanne). It uses an innovative permanent magnet linear generator to extract power from the vertical motion of the water surface caused by waves.
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![](https://webarchive.library.unt.edu/eot2008/20090116074818im_/http://wave.oregonstate.edu/Research/images/tsunami_test_concept.jpg)
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NEES Test of Concept (Jan-Feb 2004).
Tsunami wave impacts against a circular cylinder were observed in the Tsunami Wave Basin. Calibrated video was taken along with simultaneous pressure, wave height, and water velocity observations. Video and acquired data were observed and played back by remote collaborators as a proof-of-concept of the shared-use capabilities of the facility.
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![](https://webarchive.library.unt.edu/eot2008/20090116074818im_/http://wave.oregonstate.edu/Research/images/timestacks.jpg)
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Video Observations of Wave Phase Speed (Nov-Dec 2003).
Simultaneous observations using video and wave gauges of four different monochromatic wave conditions over a steep planar beach in the Large Wave Flume. The observations were used to make multiple estimates of wave phase speeds and results were presented by Catalan et. al. at the 2004 AGU Ocean Sciences meeting in Portland.
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![](https://webarchive.library.unt.edu/eot2008/20090116074818im_/http://wave.oregonstate.edu/Research/images/USACE_test.jpg)
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Testing of Instrument Array (Sep 2003).
Severe wave conditions at the mouth of the Columbia River requires solid
construction of instrument arrays. There is a chance, however, that
the arrays are over-constructed and interfere with the measurements
being taken. We constructed a 1:3 scale model of the array for the USACE-Portland
District, and used the large wave flume to test its affect on the ambient
conditions.
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![](https://webarchive.library.unt.edu/eot2008/20090116074818im_/http://wave.oregonstate.edu/Research/images/floating_breakwater.jpg)
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Floating Breakwater (Aug-Sept 2003).
This project required the design of a new breakwater system to reduce vessel wakes in a marina in the Pacific Northwest. We conducted 1:5 scale model tests in the large wave flume using the programmable wavemaker to simulate the wakes observed at the site.
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![](https://webarchive.library.unt.edu/eot2008/20090116074818im_/http://wave.oregonstate.edu/Research/images/pile_sup_bw.jpg)
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Pile-supported Breakwater (Aug 2003).
We conducted these tests to support the development of a numerical model by K.D. Suh, visiting professor from Seoul National University. Professor Suh's model predicts wave transmission, reflection, and total force for a new type of breakwater in which energy is dissipated by the close spacing of the columns supporting the breakwater and additional energy is reflected by the the apron.
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