Flying Fish Grill

Thursday, January 15, 2009


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So here's a fish shack without a view of the water - maybe that's the reason it's a bargain. But no matter: The ocean is just a few short blocks away, and this is the perfect place to stop on the way to the beach or back with sand in your shoes.





Camp out at one of the dozen or so tables on the patio, just steps away from the parking lot, or head inside to the snug dining room. Either way, the menu is full of all things seafood. Fish tacos, wraps, and fish and chips are the biggest bargains. Soft corn tortillas wrap around cod, salmon, mahi mahi or prawns, with the customary cabbage, salsa and sauce ($3.45-$3.95); add guacamole and cheese for $3.85-$4.25. Larger wraps in spinach tortillas with added ingredients such as mango or pineapple salsa, herbed rice and ginger slaw are $7.45-$8.75.

The fryer yields nicely crunchy choices, such as cod (two pieces, $8.65; three pieces $11.65) with cole slaw and french fries. The price rises with other seafood, from calamari ($10.75) to the Clipper Combo, with cod, calamari, scallops and prawns ($15.25). Although that last choice and others inch out of the bargain category, the hearty portions and robust flavors (Asian salmon, $12.95; cioppino thick with salmon, prawns, scallops, cod, calamari and mussels, $14.75) make them value choices.

For leaner choices, the same fish come grilled, with two sides, starting with a sweet, delicate cod for $10.45. Two large crab cakes ($9.95) on greens with mango salsa and cucumber-wasabi sauce make a light dinner, especially when preceded by a silky heart of artichoke bisque ($4.75/8 ounces, $5.95/12 ounces; available weekdays only), celebrating another coastal treasure.

Vitals: 99 San Mateo Road (Highway 92), Half Moon Bay. (650) 712-1125. flyingfishgrill.net. Beer and wine. 11 a.m.-8 p.m. daily.

- Miriam Morgan, mmorgan@sfchronicle.com

This article appeared on page G - 9 of the San Francisco Chronicle

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