Insect Note #9 (Revised)
Prepared by:
K. A. Sorensen, Extension Entomologist
Dated 5/94
Placed on the Web 4/95 by the Department of Entomology, NCSU
Slugs
In North Carolina many types of ornamental and vegetable plants are
damaged by slugs. Slugs are similar to snails but differ from
snails in that they do not have a hard protective spiral shell.
There are many species of slugs in this state which vary in
appearance and habits.
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Size
- The size varies from less than one-half inch to more
than four inches in length and from one-eight to one-half inches in
width.
- Color
- The color varies from ash-gray or yellowish-gray to
black. Some are the same basic color throughout the body; others
are mottled. Immature slugs resemble adults but are smaller and
usually lighter in color.
- Eggs
- Eggs are gelatinous and watery in appearance. They
range in size from 1/8 inch in diameter to almost 1/4 inch and vary
in shape from round to oval. In the colder parts of NC, only the
eggs overwinter. Eggs are resistant to summer heat, excessive
moisture and prolonged drying. They are laid in clusters of about
25 on the soil surface in concealed moist locations.
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Life Cycle
- In spring eggs hatch and young slugs appear.
They resemble adults but may be lighter in color and smaller. Most
slugs become mature and lay eggs in the fall of the first year of
their life. If not killed by cold weather, they may live for two
or more years. Slugs are active at night. Their silver-colored
slime trails are quite noticeable each morning.
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Feeding and Injury
- Slugs feed on molds, decaying organic
matter and live plant tissue. It is the damage to foliage, flowers
and fruit that is significant to the homeowner. The mouth parts of
slugs resemble a file with many rows of small sharp teeth, and
injury to plant tissue is done by this rasping tongue. Damage may
be jagged feeding along the edges of the leaf or in severe cases
complete shredding. It is not uncommon to have a leaf or stem
completely eaten through. Young slugs feed close to the center of
the leaf and may damage just under the leaf surface.
Damage by slugs is most serious in damp areas or during extended
rainy periods. The foliage and flowers of iris, gladioli and
petunias are often damaged. Seedlings of both ornamental and
vegetable crops may be severely damaged, enough that fields must be
replanted. Tomato fruits on the lower parts of plants and also
strawberries are often damaged.
Management
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Sanitation
- Slug populations can be reduced by eliminating
their breeding and protective hiding places. Remove rotting
boards, logs and other debris from the area. Destroy plant refuse
and properly stack or store field boxes, sacks, etc. in a dry area.
Cut and trim coarse grass and weeds along fences and ditches near
susceptible crops. Compost leaves and other organic matter some
distance form garden.
-
Traps
- In small areas with light infestations such as
gardens, place boards or other flat pieces of material at least 6
inches square at various locations. Each morning slugs beneath the
"trap" may be killed by mashing, drowning in a bucket of salt water
or oil, or putting salt on them.
Chemicals
BEFORE USING ANY CHEMICAL FOR SLUG CONTROL, CHECK THE LABEL TO
BE SURE THE MATERIAL CAN BE LEGALLY USED ON OR AROUND THE SPECIFIC
CROP. In many instances, the molluscicide (snail killing
material) can be used at the ends of the garden or on walkways.
Usually the pesticides should not come in contact with any edible
part of the plant. For best control apply materials on warm dry
nights. All slugs do not emerge every warm night and, when they
do, they may crawl considerable distances, therefore, two or more
treatments may be necessary to obtain adequate control.
NONE OF THE CHEMICALS LISTED BELOW SHOULD BE USED ON FOOD CROPS:
-
Dusts
- In greenhouses and for other special areas, a 15%
metaldehyde dust is available from greenhouse supply houses. Treat
areas frequented by slugs two or more times at 10-day intervals.
Follow label directions.
-
Baits
- Baits are usually broadcast as flakes or pellets at
a rate of about 1 pound per 1000 square feet. They may also be
placed in piles throughout the infested area. If the pile method
is used, be sure to place them at least 3 feet apart and beneath a
board shingle, inverted flower pot or a similar item to prevent
accidental poisoning of birds, dogs, and other small animals.
Most baits contain Sevin or metaldehyde. Water area to be treated
and then scatter the bait lightly. So not get bait on foliage or
contaminate food crops. Apply to slug hiding areas outside the
garden.
-
Lime
- Hydrated lime around field edges acts as a
barrier.
-
Cryolite
- Cryolite may be used as a dust or a spray on
some crops. Check label closely and follow directions.
-
Beer
- According to the USDA "you can partially control
slugs if you place shallow dishes of beer in the vicinity of
infested plants. Some species will crawl into the beer and drown.
Adding molasses, corn meal or flour will enhance the attractiveness
of beer.
The use of brand names and any mention or listing of commercial products or
services in this publication does not imply endorsements by the North Carolina
Cooperative Extension Service nor discrimination against similar products or
services not mentioned. All pesticide recommendations provided in this
publication apply to pest control in North Carolina. Individuals who use
chemicals are responsible for ensuring that the intended use complies with
current regulations and conforms to the product label. Be sure to obtain
information about product usage in your locale and examine a current product
label before applying any chemical. The information presented on pest
biology is based on conditions in North Carolina and may not be applicable
to your locale. For further information, we recommend that you contact the
Cooperative Extension Service office in your county.