ANR-50, Revised May 1997. Edward Sikora, Extension Plant Pathologist, Associate Professor, Plant Pathology, and John R. McVay, Extension Entomologist, Associate Professor, Entomology, both at Auburn University

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Home Fruit Spray Guide

Growing fruit in the backyard can be very rewarding if the plants are properly cared for. Controlling insects and diseases is an essential part of proper care. Disease and insect control can be very effective if you:

• Use recommended pesticides.
• Apply pesticides uniformly on all plant surfaces.
• Make applications at the right time and in the recommended amounts.
• Remove dead or diseased limbs and fruit.

You must cover all areas of a tree--leaves, fruit, and twigs--to get good control of diseases and insects. Check each tree to make sure the pesticides reach all parts. Also, you need to spray more often during wet weather. Diseases are more likely to develop during long rainy periods, and the fungicides are frequently washed off.

Spraying Materials

Chemicals used to improve the growing environment and to protect the fruit plant can be broken down into six major categories: insecticides, fungicides, bactericides, herbicides, miticides (acaricides), and nematicides.

Insecticides are used to control harmful insects. Of course, other insects may also be killed if they are on the plant. Some insecticides kill only certain insects; therefore, spraying with just any insecticide does not assure complete insect control. You must first identify the pest and then use the proper insecticide. Insecticides give little or no control of diseases and other fruit problems.

Fungicides are used to control diseases caused by fungi. As with insecticides, certain fungicides control certain diseases while other fungicides are required for others. Fungicides have little effect on insects, bacterial diseases, or viral diseases.

Bactericides are effective against most bacterial diseases but usually have little or no activity against fungal diseases. Streptomycin compounds, for example, will control only the bacterial disease fireblight on apples and pears.

Herbicides are used to kill weeds in commercial orchards. Mulching and hoeing control weeds effectively and are more practical for the backyard gardener because recommended herbicides are generally not available in small quantities.

Miticides are used commercially to control mites. Mites are not insects; they are related to spiders. They can also be controlled with certain fungicides and insecticides.

Nematicides are used to control nematodes--microscopic worms in the soil. Treating nematode-infested soil before planting figs, peaches, and strawberries is essential.

Growth regulators and commercial fertilizers make fruit plants more productive, but they do not protect against pests. Growth regulators are frequently used in commercial operations to attain desired growth responses but have little use in the backyard orchard. Fertilizers are usually necessary anywhere fruits are grown.

In summary, insecticides and fungicides are usually important in caring for backyard fruit trees. Nematicides and bactericides may also be necessary, depending on the crops to be grown. Miticides and herbicides are not commonly used in the home orchard.

PRECAUTION: Many plants require insect pollination before fruit development can occur. If insecticides toxic to these beneficial insects are applied during the bloom period, the insects will be killed and pollination cannot occur. Therefore, no fruit will be set. If no insecticides are suggested for the bloom sprays in the following spray schedules, DO NOT add them.

Mixing Materials

When mixing fungicides and insecticides together, put the fungicide into solution before adding the insecticide. Shake the spray tank often to keep materials in solution during application. Use a commercial spreader-sticker, which you can buy at a garden center or other pesticide store.

Sprayer Care

A sprayer can be either a short-term or a long-term investment depending on two major factors: the quality of the sprayer and how well it is cared for. The cost of a sprayer does not always indicate how long it will last. A moderately priced sprayer that is well cared for will last for many years.

To care for a sprayer, check washers and gaskets periodically to be sure they are in place and in good condition. Immediately following a spraying operation, add water to the spray left in the tank and pour it out in a safe place. Fill the tank about half full with clear water and 1 tablespoon of liquid dishwashing detergent. Put the plunger on the sprayer and pressurize the tank. Run the water through the spray line to rinse all pesticide out of the sprayer hose and nozzle. Then repeat the process with clear water. Sometimes trash gets into the tank and moves through the hose to the end of the nozzle. Carefully remove the nozzle and inspect it for trash.

To complete the cleaning, open the sprayer and pour out any remaining water. Store the tank upside down with the plunger removed.

A sprayer used for spraying weeds should NEVER be used to spray the garden. Some of the herbicides may remain in the sprayer and damage or kill garden plants at a later spraying. Use an inexpensive sprayer that can be attached to the garden hose, and clearly mark it for herbicide spraying only.

Special Sprays

Some special sprays are listed in the spray schedules. They are necessary because regular cover sprays do not control certain pests. Dormant sprays are essential to keep the trees healthy. Probably more backyard fruit trees die from pests that could have been controlled with dormant sprays than from any other cause. Peach tree borers and scale take a large toll if the dormant and special borer sprays are not applied.

Use dormant sprays before green tissue shows in the buds in the spring. Use on days when the air temperature is above freezing.

Pesticide Precautions

1. Observe all restrictions and precautions on pesticide labels.
2. Store all pesticides in original containers behind locked doors. DO NOT remove labels.
3. Use the correct amounts of pesticides at correct times to avoid excessive residues and injury to plants and animals.
4. Apply pesticides carefully to avoid drift.
5. Bury surplus pesticides and destroy used containers so that contamination of water and other hazards will not result.

Special Spray: Fireblight Control

Fireblight, a bacterial disease, can cause serious production problems on apple and pear trees unless these control practices are followed.

Dormant season pruning. Cut out all dead, damaged, or diseased twigs 6 to 12 inches below the base of the dead, broken, or diseased area. After each cut, dip the blades of the pruners into a solution of 1 part chlorine bleach and 9 parts water to prevent spread of infection.

Bloom sprays. Beginning just before the first blossoms open, spray every 4 to 5 days with a 3/4-tablespoon-per-gallon concentration of streptomycin. This can be purchased as Agri-Strep or Agri-mycin 17. These sprays should be in addition to the other sprays and not in combination with them. Continue fireblight sprays until all petals have fallen off the flowers.

Flag removal. Fireblight-infected twigs appear during the growing season as scorched "flags.'' The leaves remain on the twigs and turn dark brown. As these flags appear, cut them out 6 to 12 inches below the base of the flag. After each cut, dip the blades of the pruners into a solution of 1 part chlorine bleach and 9 parts water.

Spraying Figs

Figs are one of the major home fruit plants in Alabama. This is mainly because of the ideal climate in the deep South. Although they are usually disease-free, they are sometimes attacked. Two of their most common problems are fig rust and nematode injury.

Fig diseases can be greatly reduced by proper site selection and sanitation. The best site for figs is a sunny one. Those plants set in shady places are often attacked by diseases.

Raking up and burning leaves in the fall; disposing of diseased fruit; and pruning out dead, weak, or diseased wood are sanitation steps that aid in disease control.

A dormant spray applied after these steps can further reduce the possibility of diseases. Spray 3/4 pint of liquid lime sulfur per gallon of water on all plant surfaces. This should kill most disease organisms on the plants.

Nematodes can be particularly harmful for figs. Before planting, have the site tested for nematodes. If plant-parasitic nematodes are present (especially root-knot nematodes) avoid planting figs in this site. Figs do well if planted against a house or building on the sunny side. Many of the roots grow under the structure where nematodes cannot survive.

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Special Spray: Peach Borer Control

There are two kinds of peach borers in Alabama that require special sprays to control. The peach tree borer attacks tree trunks from several inches above to 2 to 3 inches below the ground. The lesser peach tree borer feeds on larger limbs or the upper part of the trunk. The productivity of many trees is reduced each year while others are killed.

Borer damage can be reduced or controlled by proper use of insecticides. Include borer control each year as a part of the regular orchard operation. Make two applications of endosulfan (Thiodan 50WP) to the trunk and lower limbs at a rate of 1-1/2 tablespoons per gallon of water. Make the first application about July 15 and the second 3 to 4 weeks later. Or, make one application of Lorsban 4E at 1 tablespoon per gallon about August 1.

 Spraying Bunch And Muscadine Grapes (1)

Name And Time To Spray	Material And Amount To Use Per Gallon Of Water	Pest To Control
Dormant--After vines are pruned and before buds break.	3/4 pt. liquid lime sulfur	General disease cleanup
First Prebloom--When shoots are 5 to 10 inches long.	2 T. Captan 50WP + 2 t. Benlate 50P (2) or 3 T. Captan 50WP	Black rot, anthracnose, deadarm.
Second Prebloom--3 to 5 days before bloom.	2 T. Captan 50WP + 2 t. Benlate 50P (2) or 3 T. Captan 50WP plus 2 T. Diazinon 50WP	Black rot, leaf hopper, berry moth, rose chafer, mildew.
First Cover--Immediately following bloom.	Fungicides same as for First Prebloom Spray. plus 2 T. Diazinon 50WP	Black rot, leaf hopper, berry moth, rose chafer, mildew
Second Cover--15 days after First Cover Spray.	Fungicides as for First Prebloom Spray.
Third Cover--15 days after Second Cover Spray.	Fungicides as for First Prebloom Spray.
Fourth Cover--15 days after Third Cover Spray.	Fungicides as for First Prebloom Spray.
T. = tablespoon; t. = teaspoon; lb. = pound; gal. = gallon; oz. = ounce; pt. = pint; qt. = quart; WP = Wettable Powder; EC = Emulsifiable Concentrate; WDG = water-dispersible granules; t. = teaspoon
(1) Muscadine grapes usually need fewer sprays than bunch grapes. For powdery mildew control, use Benlate (1 T./gal.) or wettable sulfur (2 T./gal.). (2) DO NOT use Benlate alone.

Spraying Rabbiteye Blueberries

Rabbiteye blueberries are relatively free of insects and diseases. Several leaf spots have been seen on them, but these are not believed to be of economic importance.

Bud mites have also been seen on blueberries, but the extent of their damage is not known. If bud mites are present, use oil emulsion 2 weeks after harvest. Check the manufacturer's recommendations for rate and climatic conditions. Other insect pests, if present in large numbers, can be controlled by using 2 tablespoons of malathion 25WP per gallon of water.

 Spraying Blueberries

Name And Time To Spray	Material And Amount To Use Per Gallon Of Water	Pest To Control
Prebloom--Bud break and repeat every 7 to 10 days to bloom.	2 t. Benlate 50WP (1) + 3 T. Captan 50 WP (1)	Twig blight, mummy berry
Bloom--Apply at 7- to 20-day interval depending on fungicide.	2 t. Benlate 50WP (1) + 3 T. Captan 50 WP	Anthracnose, fruit rot, mummy berry
Petal Fall--Petal fall followed 10 to 14 days later.	2 t. Benlate 50WP (1) + 3 T. Captan 50 WP	Fruit rot, anthracnose
T. = tablespoon; t. = teaspoon; lb. = pound; gal. = gallon; oz. = ounce; pt. = pint; qt. = quart; WP = Wettable Powder; EC = Emulsifiable Concentrate; WDG = water-dispersible granules; t. = teaspoon
(1) DO NOT apply Benlate within 21 days of harvest.

Spraying Strawberries

Many times, strawberry plants can be grown almost disease- free without spraying. Weather conditions, however, can cause diseases to develop and spread, and spraying will be necessary. As a safety precaution, apply 4 tablespoons of Captan 50WP per gallon of water plus 2 teaspoons of Benlate 50WP per gallon of water at 10-day intervals from the time new growth starts until harvest. DO NOT apply Benlate alone.

If insects become a problem, add 3 tablespoons of malathion 25WP per gallon to the tank with Captan and Benlate. However, DO NOT apply Malathion within 3 days of harvest.

97 IPM-8, "1997 Commercial Peach IPM''

97 IPM-11, "1997 Commercial Apple IPM''

97 IPM-478, "1997 Small Fruit IPM''

ANR-816, "Home Applications Of Fungicides."

(The IPM publications are revised annually to reflect current pesticide recommendations.)

EC = emulsifiable concentrate

WDG = water-dispersible granules

WP = wettable powder

gal. = gallon

pt. = pint

t. = teaspoon

T. = tablespoon

Use pesticides only according to the directions on the label. Follow all directions, precautions, and restrictions that are listed. Do not use pesticides on plants that are not listed on the label.

The pesticide rates in this publication are recommended only if they are registered with the Environmental Protection Agency and the Alabama Department of Agriculture and Industries. If a registration is changed or cancelled, the rate listed here is no longer recommended. Before you apply any pesticide, check with your county Extension agent for the latest information.

For more information, contact your county Extension office. Look in your telephone directory under your county's name to find the number.