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University of Wisconsin-Extension
Before
you enter a flooded basement, take time to:
1)
Turn off the electricity, preferably at the meter;
2)
Check outside cellar walls for possible cave-ins, evidence
of structural damage or other hazards;
3)
Turn off gas or fuel service valves; and
4)
Open doors and windows or use blowers to force fresh air
into the basement.
For safety
reasons, do not use an electric pump powered by your own electrical
system. Instead, use a gas-powered pump or one connected to
an outside line. Fire departments in some communities may
help with pumping services.
More
damage may be done by pumping flooded basements too soon or
too quickly. Water in the basement helps brace the walls against
the extra pressure of water-logged soil outside. If water
is pumped out too soon, walls may be pushed in or floors pushed
up. To help prevent this kind of structural damage:
- Remove
about a third of the water each day. Watch for signs of
structural failing.
- If
the outside water level rises again after the day's pumping,
start at the new water line.
- Don't
rush the pumping; the soil may be very slow to drain. Whatever
is submerged in the basement will not be damaged further
by delaying the pumping.
After
water has been pumped from the basement, shovel out the mud
and debris while it is still moist. Hose down walls to remove
as much silt as possible before it dries. Floors and walls
may need sanitizing, particularly if sewage has entered the
basement. Scrub walls and floors with a disinfecting solution
of 1 cup chlorine bleach per gallon of water.
Oil stains
caused by overturned or damaged oil tanks also may be a problem
following basement flooding. Commercial products, available
from fuel-oil suppliers, will help neutralize fuel oil. The
products come in powder form or an aerosol spray for hard-to-reach
places. To remove oil stains and destroy odor: wipe up excess
oil, shake or spray product on the spot according to manufacturer's
directions, let it set, then sweep it up.
Before
beginning repairs, make a thorough inspection of supporting
columns, beams, walls and floors. Unless you have structural
expertise, hire a contractor to make a professional survey.
(Consider joining with neighbors for a group-rate inspection.)
Repairs may extend to the following:
- Buckled
walls. Signs of buckling include horizontal cracking and
areas that have moved out of vertical alignment. When this
condition is minor, you need not repair the wall immediately.
However, any noticeably buckled wall will eventually collapse
from normal ground pressures and seasonal temperature changes.
When buckling has seriously weakened the wall, the damaged
parts should be rebuilt immediately. Pilasters (vertical
reinforcements) may need to be constructed into walls over
15 feet long.
- Settled
walls and footings are indicated by vertical cracks either
in small areas or throughout the structure. Repairs are
difficult without special equipment. Contact a reliable
contractor for this work.
- Heaved
floors are those that have not returned to their original
level or have cracked badly. The floor may have to be removed
and a new floor constructed. If a floor is badly cracked,
but has returned to its original level, a new floor may
be placed over the old one. A vapor barrier should be added
between the two floors. The new floor should be at least
2 inches thick. In houses without basements, the area below
the floor may be completely filled with mud. Shovel out
the mud as soon as possible to avoid rotting joists or foundation
wood.
Additional resources:
Your county family living agent, your local emergency government office, the American Red Cross, the Federal Emergency Management Agency
Related publications:
"Repairing Your Flooded Home," the American Red Cross/Federal Emergency
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NASD Review: 04/2002
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