Susan Strickland and Craig Birdsong
Colorado State University Cooperative Extension
- A
sizeable portion of Coloradans with disabilities
depend on the use of a wheelchair for their mobility.
- Accessibility
describes a site, building, facility or portion
thereof that can be approached, entered and used
by physically disabled people.
- Adaptability
describes the flexibility of certain building elements
to be modified to accommodate the needs of people
with different types or degrees of disabilities.
- A
properly constructed ramp is essential for the use
of a building by anyone in a wheelchair.
- When
designed correctly, an accessible kitchen can be
easily used by everyone in the household.
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Various
estimates place the number of Americans with disabilities
between 20 million and 50 million people (35 or 36 million
is most commonly quoted.) A precise and reliable overall figure
is not currently available, due to differing operational definitions
of disability, divergent sources of data, and inconsistent
survey methodologies, which together make it impossible to
aggregate much of the available data.2
In 1983,
one source estimated there to be 250,000 disabled Coloradans.
Even if the numbers are not precise, there exists a sizable
portion of the population with disabilities, many of whom
depend on the use of a wheelchair for their mobility.
The
information contained in this fact sheet is for individuals
using wheelchairs, their family members and/or friends. The
suggestions presented are simple, inexpensive, and suitable
for renters as well as homeowners. The American National Standard
Institute, a recommended publication, is the basis for the
majority of the physical dimensions cited (ANSI A117, 1-1986).
For
the person interested in architecture or design for disabled
people and who is using the ANSI standards, it is helpful
to understand the difference between accessibility and adaptability.
ANSI A117.1-1986 describes accessibility as a site, building,
facility or portion thereof that can be approached, entered
and used by physically disabled people and adaptability as
the flexibility of certain building elements (such as kitchen
counters, sinks and grab bars) to be modified to accommodate
the needs of persons with different types or degrees of disability.
The average dimensions of a standard adult manual wheelchair
(occupied) are (Figure 1):
- length--46
to 50 inches including allowance for projection of feet
to overhang;
- width--23
to 32 inches allowing for hands and elbows;
- seat
depth--16 inches;
- seat
height--19-20 inches; and
- arm
height--29-30 inches from floor.
The
sports wheelchair, which has cambered wheels and a lower seat
is wider and the overhead reach not as high as the standard
model.
The
average distance needed for an adult in a wheelchair to make
a complete circle is 60 inches of clear floor space. Minimum
clear width for a wheelchair is 36 inches for a hall and 32
inches for a door. Minimum clear space for a T-shaped turn
of 180 degrees is 36 inches in all directions. The minimum
passage width for one wheelchair and one ambulatory person
is 48 inches.
The average reaching distance of a seated adult: side reach
maximum height overhead is 54 inches and the low side reach
is 9 inches above the floor (Figure 2). This does not include
reaching over an obstacle such as a counter. The maximum forward
reach is 48 inches above the floor, also not over an obstacle.
A properly
constructed ramp is essential for the use of a building by
anyone in a wheelchair. A ramp can replace stairs or be part
of an accessible route to a building's entrance. An accessible
route is the shortest possible path from a handicapped parking
space to an accessible entrance. There should be at least
one accessible route from a public street, sidewalk or parking
space, to an accessible entrance, as well as from adjacent
buildings.
Ramps
are required as part of an accessible route anytime there
is an elevation in the grade of the land that wheelchairs
must maneuver. The maximum slope of any ramp is 1-12--this
ratio means that for every inch of height in grade change,
12 inches of ramp length is required (Figure 3). The ramp
length (or run) should not exceed 30 feet without landings,
nor should the ramp rise more than 30 inches. The minimum
width of a ramp is 36 inches. Because of inclement weather
(snow, ice, wind, etc., some states have developed a second
standard for exterior ramps and walk-ways; 1-12 remains the
standard for interior ramps and 1-20 is the ratio for exterior
ramps.
Landings are required at both the top and bottom of a ramp
and should be at least as wide as the ramp (36 inches). Landings
should have a 60-inch minimum length of clear space at both
the top and bottom.
If a
ramp longer than 6 feet will be used by ambulatory people
as well, a handrail is needed on both sides of the ramp. The
handrails should extend 12 inches beyond the top and bottom
of the ramp and should have a clear space of 1-1/2 inches
between the handrail and the wall. There should be a distance
of 30-34 inches from the floor of the ramp to the top of the
handrail. Children will require a lower handrail.
The
two most common materials used for ramp construction are wood
and concrete. Wood is easier and faster to construct, relatively
inexpensive, and can last for years.
All
ramps and landings need a nonskid surface and should be designed
so water will not accumulate. To do this for concrete ramps
the surface must be textured. There are several ways to make
wooden ramps nonskid: pebble-grained paper or sand mixed with
paint. In Colorado, it may be a good idea to keep snow melt
handy to use on ramps and landings during inclement weather.
Every
ramp must be custom built to conform to the specific site.
Chapter 3 of How To Create Interiors for the Disabled6
provides detailed directions on ramp building.
A clearance
of 18 inches on the latch side of the door allows for an easier
and safer opening. A shelf attached to the exterior or interior
wall of the structure and adjacent to the door, permits a
wheelchair user to put packages down while unlocking and opening
the door.
There
is more information available on modifying a kitchen than
any other part of a home. When designed correctly, an accessible
kitchen can be used easily by everyone in the household. The
information here is general in nature. For more specific information,
refer to the sources listed in the references.
The
recommended minimum clearance between opposing cabinet fronts,
countertop edges or walls is 40 inches except for a U-shaped
kitchen, which is 60 inches.
If the
doors of the base cabinets can be removed and the base of
the cabinet can be cut out in front of the sink, the person
who is seated in a wheelchair can roll up to the sink rather
than approaching it parallel and twisting sideways in the
wheelchair.
If sink
cabinet doors are removed, insulating the hot water pipes
will prevent leg burns. A 36-inch long spray hose at the sink
allows for rinsing dishes and filling pans.
A functional
food preparation area is essential. This can be achieved by
removing additional cabinet doors and other parts of the base
cabinets, allowing the person a front approach to a counter
and a work area in front. A pull-out cutting board also is
very useful. A hole can be cut in the board to hold a mixing
bowl. A small dining or breakfast table in the kitchen can
serve as a work center or for other activities requiring a
solid work surface. If the kitchen is small, a fold-down table,
hinged to the wall may provide additional work space.
If you
own or are buying a home, consider having a section of the
base cabinets made adaptable. This can be done by taking a
minimum 30-inch section of counter mounted on heavy duty shelf
brackets to be adjustable for alternative heights. This section
is commonly used as the mixing center. Standard counter height
increments are 28 inches, 32 inches and 36 inches (36 is standard).
The toe space is 10 inches high and 8 inches deep under the
cabinet for clearance of wheelchair footrests.
Other
recommendations for base cabinets include: U-shaped handles
for easy use to avoid grasping a knob; installing lazy-susans,
pull-out trays or storage shelves and pot racks; holders for
various food wraps attached to the inside of cabinet doors;
2 feet of heat-resistant countertop next to the range allowing
wheelchair users to slide hot utensils without the danger
of trying to lift them; using small electrical appliances,
which often are easier to handle; and, if possible, the installation
of a double sink with a shallow (5 to 6 inch) side or a cushioned
rack in one side that can be used to raise the bottom of one
side of the sink. The drain of the sink should be in the back
for easier reach and maximum leg space around the disposal.
The
bottom shelf of the wall cabinets should be lowered to a maximum
of 48 inches above the floor. If renting, consider adding
a shelf under the wall cabinet--a variety of types and sizes
are available. Under-the-cabinet small appliances are becoming
very popular, but before purchasing one, make sure that the
wheelchair user can comfortably reach and use it.
Another
area of the kitchen that can help or hinder the independence
of a wheelchair user is the placement of food and dishes.
Be inventive and try putting items in different places.
Utensils
and appliances should be close to the appropriate work areas,
even if it means duplicating some items. Long barbecue tongs
can be hung in various locations throughout the house to retrieve
things that fall or are too high to reach.
Keep
heavy pots, pans, dishes and mixing bowls on bottom shelves,
along with canned foods. There are pull-out shelves that are
easy to install and can provide more bottom shelf space. (These
can be taken with you if you move.) Top shelves can hold boxes,
glasses and small items, as well as items not used on a regular
basis. If the top shelf is made of clear plastic, a person
in a wheelchair can see the contents.
Shelves
can be installed in a broom closet to convert it into a pantry.
Pegboard, attached to the wall and equipped with hooks, is
an excellent way to store pots, pans and utensils or anything
else often used. An extension gripper permits a seated person
to use high shelves that would otherwise be out of reach.
Unbreakable, plastic containers and stainless steel bowls
also are helpful.
A rolling
cart or cutting-block table with wheels can be used for taking
food and dishes and small appliances to and from the table
(particularly if the table is in another room) or used for
a work center. A lazy-susan on a shelf in the refrigerator
makes retrieving food from the back much easier. To help see
food that is cooking, attach a removable mirror at an angle
to the wall behind the cooktop. It's easier to see from a
wheelchair if food is cooking in clear glass cookware.
Bathrooms
are a necessity of life--but something most people take for
granted. Wheelchair users cannot take them for granted. Both
residential bathrooms and commercial restrooms have two problems
in common: narrow doors and no grab bars. If the residence
is fairly new or the geographic area uses accessible housing
standards, the walls in the tub area and the walls behind
and next to the toilet should have extra blocking. Blocking
is a structural reinforcement within a wall that allows a
grab b r to be attached securely. Studs can be used too, but
may not be located in the most desirable location.
If the
sink is free-standing, extra support should be installed under
the front edge of the sink or an "L" bracket should be added
since disabled people tend to lean heavily on the sink. Countertop
sinks are safer for support and access. The doors on under-sink
cabinets can be removed much the same as in the kitchen. Again,
remember to insulate hot water pipes.
The
purpose of a grab bar is to help support a person, and the
grab bar must be able to support a person's weight until help
arrives or the person can right him/herself. A grab bar is
both pulled and pushed against.
The
standard size for a grab bar is 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches in diameter
and should be 1-1/2 inches away from the wall. A sturdy towel
rod can be used if it is screwed into a stud or blocking--make
sure that it doesn't rotate in its fittings. With some new
construction, blocking is placed in the walls such that grab
bars can be installed easily. If there is no blocking in the
walls, it can be added. The recommended type is 3/4 inch plywood,
6 to 12 inches wide, toe-nailed (at an angle) into the studs;
or a 4 by 8-inch block toe-nailed into the studs.
Heavy
duty towel racks or grab bars can be used if they are anchored
securely to the wall. Grab bars come in metal or plastic and
in many sizes and colors. Colors are easier to see in an emergency.
Medical supply stores, plumbing fixture shops and hardware
stores will have towel racks and/or grab bars. Grab bars with
a slight texture are easier to grip.
In the
bathtub area, the blocking should be the full length of the
tub. This allows grab bars to be installed anywhere in the
area or in more than one place. The end of the tub (opposite
the drain) also needs blocking. This should be the tub width.
If the
person can use a tub without assistance, a bath mat is a good
way to prevent slipping. There also are a variety of inside-the-tub
chairs and benches that can be purchased from medical supply
stores. A hand-held shower attachment mounted on the wall
will allow either a standing or seated person to easily use
the shower. Make sure it has a 6-foot hose and controls in
the handle. The doorway of the bathroom should have a flush
sill with a clear opening of 32 inches. If the doorway can
become wide enough by removing the door itself, then a curtain
can be hung for privacy; a folding door is another alternative.
If the house or apartment has a shower door, replace the door
and the metal track with a curtain. It is difficult to transfer
over a shower track.
At the toilet, the blocked areas should be behind the toilet
and on at least one side. If there is no wall next to the
toilet, an L-shaped grab bar can be installed by attaching
the front end to the floor and the back to the wall behind
the toilet. Never install grab bars at an angle (Figure 4).
Since
the toilet is often too low for a seated person, the purchase
of an elevated toilet seat may be necessary. There are portable
and permanent toilet seat attachments available; some have
adjustable seat heights. There also are seats with arms and
guard rails. Leave an access space between the toilet seat
and the toilet for personal hygiene.
Another
problem area may be small mirrors and/or high medicine cabinets.
A shelf in the base cabinets or items placed on the counter
can make up for not being able to reach the medicine cabinet.
The mirror on the medicine cabinet can be taken off and lowered
or a wall mirror can be used. If it cannot be lowered, it
can be installed at an angle.
For
extra storage, add narrow shelves where space permits, and
hang coated wire racks and/or baskets nearby.
At least
one clear path of travel, without stairs, is required from
the front door of the dwelling to at least the following areas:
kitchen, dining area, bedroom, bathroom, living room and storage
areas. The wheelchair user always should be able to gain access
to at least one bedroom and full bathroom. Also, provide an
alternate exit in case of fire.
Maneuverability
within individual rooms is essential for comfort and freedom.
All furniture need not be placed against the walls. However,
make sure there are at least 32 inch aisles for access to
such things as television, stereo, telephone, windows, books
and hobby supplies. Ensure that supplies and controls for
the television and windows are below 48 inch in height. If
the residence is small, some furnishings may need to be omitted
to prevent congestion.
The
wheelchair user generally finds that transferring to a bed,
couch or chair is easier and safer if they are the same height
as the seat of the wheelchair. If new furniture cannot be
purchased at compatible heights, blocks of wood placed under
the legs of furniture can raise existing objects to the desired
heights. Table heights may be too low for the wheelchair user.
It is important that a person's knees and thighs fit comfortably
under a dining or work table. The easiest and least expensive
table to make is with two sawhorse supports and an old door
placed on top. An adjustable height table is more expensive,
but it can be lowered for tasks like kneading dough or raised
for tasks requiring close work or reading.
Rugs
and area carpets can cause extreme hardship for a wheelchair
user. Shag rugs show wheel tracks and rugs with thick padding
cause the chair tires to sink, making pushing and turning
the chair difficult. Velvet carpets with nap can force the
wheelchair in the wrong direction. Scatter or area rugs should
be avoided as they become tangled in the smaller front chair
wheels. Low, level, loop pile carpeting with little or no
padding is best. In bedrooms, no carpeting is preferred because
of frequent turning.
Light
switches, thermostats, drapery pulls, towel racks and fire
alarms (human activated warning systems) have an ideal height
of 3 to 4 feet above the floor; they should be no lower than
15 inches above the floor. For people with coordination limits,
replace toggle light switches with pressure sensitive switch
plates. Also, window locking devices that are reachable and
easily managed offer a sense of security.
Most
clothes rods in closets are too high to be reached easily
by anyone in a seated position. Lowering the bar to a maximum
height of 54 inch or installing an adjustable bar is recommended.
Many pre-fabricated closet accessories are now available that
can be combined in various configurations to meet one's own
storage needs and be easily dismantled and taken along if
one moves.
For
review of this information, appreciation is expressed to:
Rosemary Kreston, director, Office of Resources for Disabled
Students, Colorado State University; Nancy Jackson, executive
director, Handicapped Information Office, 1001 N. College,
Fort Collins, CO; and Cynthia Leibrock, lecturer, Interior
Design, Colorado State University.
- American
National Standard Specifications for Making Buildings and
Facilities Accessible and Usable By Physically Handicapped
People. New York: American Standards Institute, 1986.
- Design
for Independent Living. Benton Harbor, Michigan: Whirlpool
Corporation, Appliance Information Service.
- Kitchen
Adaptations for the Physically Limited. Clemson, South Carolina:
Cooperative Extension Service, Clemson University.
- Cary,
J.R. How to Create Interiors for the Disabled. New York:
Pantheon Books, 1978.
- Housing
Adaptability Guidelines. Topanga, Calif.: Peoples Center
for Housing Change, 1980.
- Raschko,
B.B. Housing Interiors for the Disabled and Elderly. New
York. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1982.
Disclaimer
and Reproduction Information: Information in NASD does not
represent NIOSH policy. Information included in NASD appears
by permission of the author and/or copyright holder. More
NASD Review: 04/2002
Service in Action 9.529, Cooperative Extension, Colorado
State University. Published September 1988. Reviewed September
1992. Copyright 1992. For more information, contact your
county Cooperative Extension office.
Susan Strickland, graduate student; and Craig Birdsong,
Colorado State University associate professor, design, merchandising
and consumer sciences.
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