Wayne Loch and Brooke Ballenger
University of Missouri Extension
Horse
sports are very rewarding when safety practices are followed.
But maintaining safe working conditions when handling horses
cannot be overemphasized.
Riders
should have a working knowledge of horse behavior so they
can anticipate and prevent potential hazardous situations.
Horses are easily startled animals by nature, but most accidents
can be prevented by using proper handling methods (see MU
publication G02878, Safe Ground Handling of Horses). This
publication discusses basic riding techniques and provides
information on proper saddling, bridling and riding.
Be
sure that the horse and rider are suitable for each other.
Beginners should ride only calm, dependable horses -- preferably
older horses -- until they are proficient enough to handle
more difficult ones.
Your
equipment must be adequate for the situation and in good repair.
Check the rigging, cinches, latigo straps and billets of your
saddle to be sure they are strong and that there is no danger
of breaking. Check bridles and reins, especially at stress
points, and make sure the leather is strong and supple. Leather
that is dry and cracked can break easily.
When
preparing to saddle your horse, make sure you do not lay the
saddle on the ground where the horse could step on it. Set the
saddle on a saw horse or stand made for that purpose.
Before
saddling, groom your horse thoroughly. Be sure there are no
sores on its back or in the cinch area, as this could cause
the horse to wring its tail or buck. If there are saddle sores,
consider using extra padding or a girth pad, or give the horse
time off until the sores heal. Also check your blanket for
foreign objects or dirt buildup, and be sure that the blanket
is dry.
Place
the blanket well forward and pull it back toward the rear
of the horse until the front rests at the withers. This pulls
the hair backward in the direction it should lie. Never pull
a blanket forward, as it will reverse the direction of the
hair and cause discomfort.
Make
sure there are no wrinkles, and be sure the blanket offers
adequate padding for the horse. Some horses require more padding
than others and some may require extra padding at their withers
to prevent binding the shoulders. Also make sure that the
saddle cinch is clean, as dirty cinches can cause saddle sores.
Pick
up the saddle so that the fork is in your left hand. You will
saddle the horse from its left side, so lay the cinch, or
cinches, over the seat and hook the right stirrup over the
saddle horn. This prevents you from tripping and keeps them
from hitting the horse's side as the saddle comes down on
its back, which could scare the horse and cause it to jump
into you. Never approach the horse carrying a saddle with
a dragging cinch, as you could step on it and fall under the
horse. Also be sure there is nothing between you and the horse
that you could trip on as you carry the saddle.
Raise
the saddle as high as you can and set it down gently on the
horse's back. This helps prevent back soreness and helps assure
the horse that the saddling experience is nothing to fear.
Throwing the saddle onto the horse's back can cause bruising
and may aggravate any existing back problems.
Place
the saddle so that at least an inch of blanket lies in front
of it. Placing it too far up on the blanket could cause the
blanket to work its way backward on the horse as you ride.
Do not place the saddle too far forward, which restricts shoulder
movement and causes discomfort, or too far back, which can
cause kidney damage and sore backs.
Move
to the opposite side by walking behind the horse, either by
keeping a hand on the horse and walking as close as possible,
or by keeping a distance of several feet to ensure that you
are out of kicking range. Talk to your horse frequently, especially
when changing sides or starting something new. This ensures
that the horse is aware of your presence and it helps to calm
a nervous horse.
Let
the cinch and stirrup down, making sure they do not slam down
on the horse's side. Never release the cinch and stirrup by
pushing them over the saddle from the left side. This could
hurt or startle the horse.
Make
sure the blanket is even and that the cinch is straight. Then
move back to the near side and pull the blanket up into the
gullet of the saddle to prevent pressure on the withers and
slipping of the blanket.
Reach
under the horse and grasp the cinch with your left hand, facing
the rear of the horse. If using a martingale or breast collar,
you may need to thread the cinch through the end of the martingale
or breast collar before fastening the cinch, unless your cinch
has a ring to which you can attach them. In this case, tighten
the cinch before attaching the martingale or breast collar.
If
you use a rear cinch, tighten the front one first. Put the
latigo, or cinch strap, through the cinch ring and the rigging
ring twice. Then you can either tie a cinch knot to secure
the cinch, or you can buckle it if the cinch has a buckle
and your latigo has holes for it.
Completing
the cinch knot before tightening the cinch is much easier
because the rigging ring is not pulled tight. To tie the knot,
tighten the cinch just enough to prevent it from hanging underneath
the horse's belly. Then pull the latigo out to the side, cross
over the top just underneath the rigging ring, and put the
latigo up through the rigging ring again. Then place the end
of the latigo underneath the loop you made when you crossed
over the top.
With
the left hand under the buckle to prevent pinching, tighten
the cinch slowly, an inch or two at a time. Tightening it
too quickly can cause your horse to be "cinchy," or irritable,
during saddling. Some horses may even begin biting or rearing
when you tighten the cinch if they anticipate discomfort.
Tighten
the cinch until it is snug enough to hold the saddle on the
horse. You can tighten it more before mounting. Secure the
end of the strap through the latigo carrier in front of the
fender. Although most straps are not long enough to get stepped
on, they should be kept up out of the way so that they do
not blow against the horse's legs or belly.
If you
have a rear cinch, fasten it so that your hand can fit flat
between cinch and horse when the rider is mounted. It should
not be excessively tight when the horse is first saddled,
nor should it be so loose that a back foot could get caught
in it. Rear cinches should have a strap connected to the front
cinch to prevent it from getting into the flank area.
After
the horse is walked to the mounting area, recheck the front
cinch. You probably will be able to take it up another hole
or two without getting it too tight. For riding, the cinch
should be snug under the heart girth, but not excessively
tight. You should be able to fit two fingers under the buckle
without much difficulty. Check the cinch again after mounting,
as some horses will "blow out" their lungs during saddling,
only to relax after you mount, suddenly making the cinch too
loose.
Check
to be sure the saddle fits your horse. It should not put undue
pressure on the withers or restrict the shoulders. The tree
should be wide enough for the horse, but not so wide that
it rubs the withers. With some saddles, you may be able to
add more padding to correct the problem. If this does not
help, you will need to use another saddle. If the saddle is
too narrow at the gullet, it will make the horse's back sore.
You may need to use a breast collar to keep the saddle from
slipping too far back, depending on the horse's conformation
and how well the saddle fits.
To unsaddle,
simply reverse the above process. Always unfasten the rear
cinch first to prevent an accident should the saddle turn
while you are unsaddling. Your horse may panic if the saddle
turns with the flank cinch fastened.
To
remove the saddle, lift it slightly before pulling it off.
This is more comfortable for the horse and easier on the saddle.
As you pull the saddle off, place the cinch and right stirrup
over the seat so that they do not hit you in the shins.
If you
have had a hard ride, loosen the cinch gradually before taking
the saddle off. This allows the blood to flow back under the
saddle slowly.
Untie
your horse before bridling. Working on the horse's left side
again, drop the nosepiece of the halter off the nose and refasten
the crown strap around the neck. Avoid placing your face too
close to the horse's head during bridling and use caution when
handling the ears. This helps ensure that you do not get hit
in the face should the horse toss its head.
If you
have romal reins, or closed reins, place them over the horse's
head and neck. If you have split reins, place them over your
right shoulder, making sure they do not droop where you or
the horse could step on them. Throughout this process, be
particularly careful not to wrap any piece of equipment attached
to the horse around your hand or arm, as it could wrap around
your hand and cause serious injury.
Spread
the crown of the bridle with the right hand and hold the bit
in the left. Place your right arm over the horse's head between
its ears and approach the horse's mouth with the bit. Be sure
to keep the cheek pieces out of its eyes and avoid banging
its teeth with the bit.
With
the bit pushed lightly against the horse's lips, insert the
left thumb in the corner of the mouth. There are no teeth
here, so if necessary you can put pressure on the bar of the
mouth with your thumb to encourage the horse to open its mouth.
Many horses will open their mouths readily as you approach
with the bit.
Lift
the bridle upward with the right hand as you gently feed the
bit over the teeth. Never jerk the bridle, and move with the
horse if it moves its head. Place the crown of the bridle
over one ear and then the other, bending the ears forward
gently as you pull the bridle over them. Rough handling of
the ears can cause horses to be head-shy and difficult to
bridle. Be careful not to drag the cheek pieces over the horse's
eyes. Straighten out the forelock to avoid irritation. Then
fasten the throatlatch, allowing enough room for you to insert
your hand sideways throughout the jaw area.
The
bridle should be properly adjusted before you ride. Be sure
the browband does not hang down in the horse's eyes and that
the bit is neither too high nor too low. The bit should rest
on the bars of the mouth. It should be high enough that it
creates a small wrinkle at the corners of the mouth. If there
are two or three wrinkles, the bit is probably too high. On
the other hand, if the bit hangs so that it comes in contact
with the incisor teeth, it is too low.
Also
check the curb chain, or curb strap. You should be able to
fit three fingers sideways between the horse's chin and the
chain, but the chain should be tight enough that it places
pressure on the chin when you pull back on the reins. This
ensures that you have enough control of your horse.
Wear
hard-toed boots with a heel at all times when handling or riding
horses. The heel will help prevent your foot from sliding through
the stirrup and the hard boot will protect your toes should
the horse step on them.
Always
wear long jeans, which protect your legs from saddle sores
and from hazards on the trail. Avoid shorts and any type of
pant made from slick material, such as nylon.
You
may want to wear gloves for hand protection, particularly
in the winter when hands will be exposed to harsh weather.
Gloves also may help in the summer because your hands may
sweat and make the reins slippery. If you lunge your horse
before riding, always wear gloves in case your horse tries
to pull away, pulling the line through your hand in the process.
Chaps are another option as well. They provide protection
for your legs and clothing, and they help to keep you warm
in winter.
Avoid
dangling jewelry that could get caught on the horse. Loose
shirts are a hazard because they can catch on the saddle horn
when you dismount. Long hair should be pulled back so your
vision is not restricted.
Small
children should wear a riding helmet to protect their heads
in case of a fall. Their balance and strength is not as developed
as that of an adult, so they are more likely to fall should
the horse spook or get out of control.
Only
wear spurs when necessary and be sure you have a well-developed
leg before attempting to use them. Riders who do not have
control of their legs can accidentally gouge or startle their
horse. Have an experienced rider or trainer show you how to
use them properly, as incorrect use can injure the horse and
cause the horse to buck or run away.
Mount
your horse in an area away from buildings, trees, fences and
objects on the ground. Pick a spot with good footing and be
sure your boots are clean on the bottom. Otherwise, your foot
may slip out of the stirrup as you are mounting.
Avoid
using deep stirrups or oxbow stirrups for pleasure riding.
These are meant for roping and cutting horse riders, and it
is difficult to keep the foot in the proper position for pleasure
riding using these types of stirrups. The depth of a deep
stirrup makes it easy for a small foot to go through and get
caught.
Use
of oxbow stirrups requires boots with strong arch supports.
They are meant for cutting, where riders place their feet
all the way forward in the stirrup. This position is not desirable
for pleasure riding.
Before
mounting, check the cinch again to make sure it is neither
too loose nor too tight. Take one more look at your equipment
to be sure everything is adjusted properly. It is proper to
mount from the left side, but horses should be trained to
allow mounting and dismounting from both sides in case you
ever need to use the far side in an emergency. Handling the
horse from both sides also helps prevent you and the horse
from becoming "one-sided."
Hold
the reins in your left hand, positioning your fingers on the
reins just as you would when mounted. Take up the slack so
that you have light contact with the horse's mouth. Facing
the rear of the horse, twist the stirrup to receive your left
foot. Make sure your horse stands still during this process.
If it tries to walk away, tell it to whoa and pull back on
the reins until it stops.
Keep
your left hand at the base of the horse's neck and place the
right hand on the fork of the saddle on the opposite side.
Balance your left hand on the neck to be sure you do not bump
the horse's mouth while mounting. If necessary, grab mane
or hold on to the bony part of the withers.
Take
one or two hops on the right foot and swing yourself up into
the saddle, making sure your leg swings clear of the horse's
rump. Bumping the horse could startle it, cause it to anticipate
discomfort, or prompt it to move off before you are seated.
Restrain the horse if it wants to walk off. Be sure your left
toe is not pushing into its side.
Sit
down softly in the saddle. Flopping down in the saddle could
cause a cold-backed horse to show anxiety or even buck. Even
the calmest horse may learn to dislike mounting if you do
not show it respect throughout the process. Cold-backed horses
usually can be spotted by their tendency to have a "hump"
in their backs before riding. The back of the saddle may raise
up slightly and the horse may exhibit a stiff walk. Consider
lunging such horses before riding to prevent a bucking episode.
If
the horse tries to buck, lift your hands and sit deep in the
saddle to keep its head up and your body secure, keeping the
horse moving forward. The tendency for beginning riders is
to lean forward, but this only makes it easier for the horse
to buck you off. It is more difficult for the horse to buck
with its head up, and you must sit up straight to keep the
head up.
Horses
should learn to stand after mounting and they should not walk
away until asked. Stand quietly for several seconds before
moving off so your horse learns that it must be patient and
wait for you.
Start
out by riding in an area that is familiar to both horse and
rider. Make sure you have the "kinks" out before riding on the
trail or in new surroundings. The horse should be quiet and
should listen to your cues. Ride with your reins at a comfortable
length to encourage the horse to relax and move forward.
When
riding on a road, the Missouri Highway Patrol suggests that
you ride facing oncoming traffic. Riding on roads where there
is high-speed traffic can be extremely hazardous and should
be avoided if possible.
Be extremely
careful when crossing pavement or hard road surfaces, especially
if those surfaces are wet or have oil spots. Ride in these
areas at a walk to prevent slipping and to preserve your horse's
legs. Give yourself adequate time to cross between cars so
you do not have to hurry.
Be aware
that horses see differently than humans and may spook at strange
objects. Keep this in mind as you approach unfamiliar territory
so your horse does not jump out into traffic.
If your
horse does spook at something new, do not increase its fear
by punishing it. Simply keep it moving forward, possibly on
a circle, moving back and forth past the object of its fear.
Circling in this manner will give the horse an opportunity
to see and smell without exaggerating the importance of the
object, which will probably reinforce the horse's fear. Allowing
the horse to stop and look at the object teaches it that spooking
is a way to get out of work. Speak quietly to your horse a
d give it reassuring pats when it responds properly. Be sure
that you remain calm.
When
riding with friends, keep a safe distance between horses,
whether riding side by side or in a line. When riding single
file, keep at least a horse's length between horses. If you
tailgate or ride up on the rear of another horse, you may
be kicked or your horse may step on the other horse's heels.
When
riding side by side, know that some horses do not like this
and will try to kick the other horse. Be on the lookout for
warning signs, such as pinned ears and one horse swinging
its hind end toward the other horse.
If you
ride in a group, remember that most horses do not like to
be left behind. For example, if one rider is left behind to
close a gate, the horse may become anxious and want to catch
up. This makes mounting difficult and creates a dangerous
situation for the rider. It is best to wait until the entire
group is ready before moving away. Young horses may become
particularly anxious when left behind and some may even panic.
Avoid
riding up quickly behind other riders, as it is the horse's
nature to join the group when other horses start to run. For
example, do not lope past another horse at the walk, as this
may catch the other rider unaware and cause their horse to
take off running with you. It is not uncommon for young, green
horses to panic and buck when other riders gallop by if they
are not allowed to join in with them.
Riding
double is not as safe as riding alone. Not all horses will
tolerate two riders, so if you ride double, be sure your mount
is suitable. The person riding behind should be a balanced,
experienced rider, because if the horse gets nervous, the
beginner's tendency is to squeeze with the legs or clench
onto the front rider, which will only worsen the situation.
Horses are particularly sensitive in the flank area. If the
second rider is not careful, he or she can easily clench the
horse in this area, causing the horse to buck or try to run
away.
Allow
your horse plenty of time and plenty of rein when crossing
obstacles on the trail. Horses see differently than humans
do and they need enough rein to raise and lower their heads
to judge height and distance. This also allows them to balance
themselves properly. Do not hurry your horse over rough ground.
Give the horse time to pick its footing properly.
Always
walk back to the barn. If you allow your horse to run home,
it will become barn-sour and may become anxious or start trying
to take off with you every time you turn toward the barn.
These horses also may begin misbehaving upon leaving the barn.
For this reason, it is a good idea to walk the last quarter-mile
of your ride, which also allows the horse to cool down.
Clowning
and showing off will increase the likelihood of an accident.
Good riders do not need to exhibit their horsemanship skills
by showing off. The calmest, safest horse can panic in unusual
situations, so always keep this in mind and avoid showing
off.
Horse
owners will usually find it necessary at some point in time
to trailer their horses. Hauling may be necessary at the time
of purchase or for horse shows, trail riding or medical emergencies.
Being prepared and maintaining your trailer in a road-worthy
condition prevents needless delays when the time to haul comes.
Make
sure that the trailer is securely and properly hitched to
the towing vehicle before loading your horse. Unhitched trailers
can easily tip up under the weight of a moving horse. For
more information, please refer to the trailer safety checklist.
It is
important to have practiced loading and unloading in advance
of any scheduled events. Horses not familiar with being hauled
can create an unpleasant beginning to a day's journey. When
working with young horses in trailers with partitions, you
can boost their confidence if you enter first on the opposite
side of the partition. Never go into the same stall you want
the horse to go into unless there is an open escape door.
Promptly
fasten the bar or chain behind the horse after it loads to
prevent it from backing out before you are able to tie its
head. When tying it's head, use a quick-release knot or a
tie with a panic/safety snap. Make sure the horse has enough
rope length to permit head movement for balance, but not enough
to get its head too low or over to the horse traveling alongside.
Once
the horse is loaded and the gate is closed, check the latches
to be sure they are tight and that they cannot bounce up and
come loose. There are many types of latches, so be sure that
the type you are using cannot come unfastened.
When
on the road, stay back from the vehicle in front of you so
that you will have adequate room to stop. The extra weight
of the trailer will increase the distance normally required
to stop your vehicle. Avoid hard stops as they tend to throw
horses down. Even if the animals are not injured, they may
become fearful and trailer-sour, which causes difficulty in
hauling.
When
you arrive at your destination, be careful where you unload.
Leave enough room behind for unloading and unload on ground
that will give good footing for the horse. Be sure you have
untied the horse before you release the tail chain or gate.
Horses that get unloaded part way and find their heads caught
may panic and injure themselves.
- Hitch
-- Be sure that the hitch is secure and your trailer is
properly fastened. Use heavy safety chains to secure the
trailer to the towing vehicle.
- Tires
-- Follow the manufacturer's recommended inflation pressures.
A good rule of thumb for safe tire tread is a minimum of
1/4-inch tread depth. Inspect tires for signs of dry rot.
A tire with dry rot is not dependable. Don't forget to have
a spare tire that is well-maintained.
- Brakes
-- Replace worn components and test brake operation before
beginning the haul.
- Lights
-- Check for correct and full operation of brake, turning
and marker lights. Interior lights are handy when loading
and unloading at night.
- Jacks
and safety triangles -- Have these available and in
good working order in case of roadside breakdowns.
- Floorboards
-- Horses apply a great deal of pressure on the small area
under their hoofs. Floorboards should not be in a rotted
or weak condition. Rubber mats on the floor and tailgate
provide traction and cushion during loading, unloading and
travel.
- Wheel
bearings -- These need to be re-packed with grease and
checked at least every year.
Disclaimer
and Reproduction Information: Information in NASD does not represent
NIOSH policy. Information included in NASD appears by permission
of the author and/or copyright holder. More
NASD Review: 04/2002
This
fact sheet,
G2881
,
was produced under Cooperative Agreement U05/CCU7060804-01 between
the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health and
the University of Missouri. For more information call (314)
882-2731. Publication date: January 1994. Revised: January 1994.
Wayne
Loch, Department of Animal Sciences, University of Missouri-Columbia;
and Brooke Ballenger, Extension Occupational Safety Program,
University of Missouri-Columbia
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