Reviewed September 2006
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Flowers and other plant materials for drying should be picked close to their prime. Flowers to be air-dried continue to open as they dry; therefore such flowers should not be fully open at picking. Never place wilted flowers into drying mixtures.
Flowers or leaves for drying may be collected at any time during the growing season from early spring until late fall. Always collect more material than is needed, to allow for damage. Use only the most perfect forms. Poor shapes dry as poor shapes. Use only plants and flowers free of insect and disease damage. Damage becomes only more obvious after drying. Pick flowers when they are free of dew or rain. Place stems promptly in a container of water to prevent wilting while gathering.
It is sometimes difficult to develop graceful lines when making dried flower arrangements. Therefore, while collecting, look for branches and stems with sweeping curves or lines that will add distinctiveness to the arrangement. If none can be found, curves or other lines can be made by shaping the branches or stems into the desired positions while they dry.
In addition to flowers, stems and leaves that may be dried indoors, there are many materials that can be collected in the fall and used almost directly in arrangements after gathering. These include many seedpods, cones, grain, grasses and berries found in the garden as well as in fields and roadsides.
Many garden flowers, as well as wild plants, can be dried simply by hanging them upside down in a warm, dry place for several weeks (Table 1). Flowers best suited to this treatment are the "everlastings" and a few others that do not wilt readily. Some, such as globe amaranth, can be dried in bunches on their natural stems. Others, such as strawflower, should have a wire substituted for stems before drying.
Steps for air-drying
Natural stems dried in this process will generally be fairly straight. These may be bent for arranging by submerging the stems in warm water until they have softened. Then, bend them to the desired position and weight them in that position until they have dried. Some may be laid on curved cardboard to conform to the desired curvature as they dry.
In addition to the garden flowers and everlastings that may be air dried, many seed heads of grasses and other plants can be hung to dry. Even a few large flowers, such as peony and hydrangea, are sometimes dried in this way. However, since they are quite large, they should be hung individually rather than in bunches.
Pressed flowers are especially suitable for flower pictures, as well as decoration on note paper, place cards and many other items.
Collecting for pressing
Use flowers for pressing that are in prime condition. Also, use flowers with different stages of development up to full maturity for more variety in design. Avoid plants with fleshy stems and leaves as well as flowers with very thin petals. Don't try to press wilted materials. Flowers that are flat, such as pansies, press best.
Methods for pressing
The faster flowers dry, the better they retain color. On the other hand, flowers can't be exposed to excessively high temperatures; although they may dry quickly, they will turn brown.
Pressing requires sandwiching flowers and foliage between layers of an absorbent material. This should be clean and hold the flowers firmly and flat during the drying process. Porous materials that allow some air movement are also beneficial.
Flowers are generally placed between sheets of a nonglossy type of paper. Newspapers, old telephone directories or catalogs are suitable. Absorbent facial tissues placed on the pages aid rapid moisture absorption. Tissues should be removed and flowers or foliage replaced between fresh, dry tissues and papers at the end of the first week. After the flowers and tissues have been placed in the folded newspapers or books, stack them several layers deep. Place boards beneath and on top of the stack. Put the stack in a warm, dry place with a heavy weight on top.
Another satisfactory system suitable for drying flowers uses a combination of cardboard, newspaper and desk-sized blotter pads. Corrugated cardboard is cut into sheets slightly larger than the sheets of folded newspaper. Flowers are positioned on one side of the opened newspaper. Then the newspaper is closed and a sheet of blotter paper placed on either side.
After all flowers have been placed between the newspapers, blotter paper and cardboard, the layers are stacked and tied or taped together. They should then be placed in a warm, well-ventilated place and weighted. If large numbers of flowers are pressed, write a date on the stacks to keep track of drying time. Special presses can be purchased or constructed for drying large quantities of materials.
The flowers in the following list produce good results when pressed. However, there are many others that may be used, and experimentation with those available is suggested.
At times, flowers that are air-dried become misshapen during the drying process. This is especially true with flowers that have a high moisture content or a flat, open shape. These types of flowers may be dried in their natural form by burying the flowers in one of several desiccants that remove water from the flowers more quickly than air drying while at the same time holding the flower in its natural form. The following materials (blends) can be used as desiccants for drying flowers.
Borax combined with sand or cornmeal
One of the least expensive mixes for drying flowers is made from sand and borax. The sand must be fine, clean and dry. Sand is relatively heavy to work with and tends to flatten flowers unless used very carefully.
A more popular mixture for drying is made of equal parts of borax and white cornmeal. The cornmeal is lightweight and has less tendency to flatten flowers. It also makes boxes easier to handle and move after filling. The main function of these materials is to hold the petals in place while they dry naturally. Good aeration is important for rapid drying. Some people feel that the addition of about three tablespoons of non-iodized salt per quart of mix helps petals retain color during drying. The ratio of borax to sand or cornmeal varies widely, but the quality of drying does not seem to differ greatly between them. Ratios varying from 1:1 to 1:6 have been used (first number refers to borax).
Silica gel
In general, the most satisfactory material for drying flowers at home is silica gel. Initial cost is greater than that of borax-sand or borax-cornmeal combinations, but it can be used over and over for many years. Since it dries flowers quickly, more flowers can be moved in and out of the mixture during a single season than in the same quantity of a borax mixture. Table 2 shows approximate drying time for some of the more popular flowers when using silica gel.
Silica gel is available under a number of trade names. It is white, but some types contain blue crystals that act as an indicator of the amount of moisture that has been absorbed. When these crystals are a clear blue the material is dry. As the moisture is absorbed from the flowers, the crystals gradually turn pink. At that point it is time to redry the crystals before using them again.
To dry the material, spread the silica gel on open pans or cookie sheets in a layer 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. Bake in an oven at about 250 degrees until the crystals are blue again. This may take about an hour. Stir the crystals several times while they are drying. Keep unused silica gel in airtight containers.
Method
The method for burying flowers in any of these materials is essentially the same. However, there are some differences in the types of containers to use, as well as drying with either natural stems or wire stems.
Containers
Flowers dried in borax mixtures should be left uncovered during the drying process. Therefore, low cardboard boxes with tight, strong bottoms are ideal. This allows good air movement throughout the mixture, and if desired, stems may be left attached and sticking out of the mix to air dry.
Flowers dried in silica gel must be placed in airtight containers. If the containers are not sealed tightly, the silica gel absorbs moisture from the air, and flowers dry too slowly or not at all. Candy tins, plastic containers, coffee cans, large-mouth jars, or any other container with a tight-fitting lid may be used. If nothing with a tight lid is available, seal loose tops with tape.
Use shallow containers to make maximum use of the drying material. The natural stem should be removed before drying most flowers in silica gel. Therefore, flowers wired before drying are more easily arranged later.
Wiring
Two techniques of wiring may be used -- hook wiring and cross wiring. Hook wiring may be used for daisies, marigolds, zinnias, or other flowers with soft centers. Flowers with a harder base or center, such as roses, should be cross wired.
To hook wire a flower, use about a 20 to 24 gauge wire and push it upward through the center of the stem, if hollow, or through about the center of the flower. Push it out the top of the flower, bend a small hook in the end of the wire and pull it back into the flower, hooking the center. Make sure that the small hook is well hidden in the flower's center. If it is not, as the flower dries, it will become visible.
To cross wire a flower, push the wire through the base of the flower at right angles to the stem. The wire is centered in the flower base, and both ends are then bent down to form a short stem.
In shallow containers, the wires may be bent several times or simply bent out of the way for drying. Later, they can be straightened after the flowers have dried and other wires added to prepare them for arranging.
Types of flowers that may be dried in silica gel and the other materials are almost limitless. However, some are more satisfactory than others and are best for the beginner. Any flowers that readily shed their petals, such as poppies, are unsuitable. Table 2 lists some flowers worth trying.
As most of these flowers dry, colors will darken. Therefore, extremely dark flowers, especially in the red, purple and blue ranges, may become almost black after drying. Whites generally develop a cream or tan color.
Burying the flowers
Flowers with wired stems are dried facing upward, and the stems are bent or curled to lie parallel to the bottom and out of the way. Flowers on natural stems may be dried on their sides (as in the case of spike flowers such as larkspur or snapdragon) or upside down with stems protruding upward. Working the drying agent between the petals is difficult when flowers are placed facing downward. When placing flowers on the side, a brace is necessary to hold the stems so flowers on one side are not flattened.
To dry flowers facing upward
Removing flowers from the mixtures
Since petals become fairly brittle after drying, care is important when removing flowers from the mixture. Pour off or gently brush to one side some of the mixture on the surface of the container. As petals become visible, gently lift the flowers upward by placing the fingers beneath them. Turn each flower upside down after removal and tap out any remaining residue. If a white dust remains, remove it by carefully brushing with a soft, dry artist's brush or gentle stream of air.
Some flowers, such as chrysanthemum, drop petals easily. These can be reinforced by dropping glue on the bottom at the base of the petals. Use a glue that becomes clear after drying.
Adding stems for arranging. Flowers often need wire in the stem for arranging. A heavier wire, such as 18-gauge, may be used. Simply twist the short wire that was placed in the flower around the stem wire and wrap them together with floral tape.
Microwave drying takes only a few minutes and provides dried flowers that look fresher and more colorful than those obtained by other methods. Support material such as silica gel must surround and support the flowers during heating and drying. Use heat-tolerant glass or microwave containers. Do not cover the containers. Place a cup of water in the oven before starting to help prevent excessive drying.
Drying times vary from about 3 minutes for dense flowers with many petals to about 1 minute for smaller or thinner-petaled flowers. Since ovens and flowers vary, experimentation will be required. Microwave drying does not work well on flowers with thick petals.
After treatment is complete, leave flowers in the silica gel for 12 to 24 hours to make sure they are cooled and dried. Since microwave-dried flowers tend to absorb air moisture, spray the petals with hair spray or lacquer. For long-term storage, keep them in an airtight container.
Perhaps the most effective (realistic) method of flower preservation involves freeze drying. In this process the flowers are placed into a refrigerated chamber and the temperature is lowered to below freezing. A vacuum is then created in the chamber, causing the moisture in the flowers to sublimate, or change from solid to gaseous form. The water vapor is then collected in a separate chamber and the dried flowers are allowed to slowly warm to room temperature. This process takes several days, requires expensive equipment and is best left to professionals.
Dried materials in storage may occasionally be attacked by one or more household insects such as museum beetles, silverfish, roaches or others closely related to them. As they chew on the soft tissue of the plant centers, flowers may shatter and fall apart. They are not necessarily on the flowers as they come from the garden but move into the boxes in the home during storage.
Occasionally check boxes, and if insects are present, destroy the infected materials. Tightly sealed containers prevent invasion. If the pests are present, thoroughly clean the container before using it again. Naphthalene flakes may repel insects, or some general insecticides may help control them, but once an area is infested, complete eradication is difficult. Cleanliness and persistence are the best means of remedying the situation.
Don't consider dried flowers as everlasting. Preferably, they should be replaced yearly, but with good care they often last longer. Even the best dried flowers gradually fade and should be discarded when they no longer produce the desired effect. Flowers that tend to fade may be lightly tinted with aerosol paints or dyes for more durable color. With care, the natural look is preserved.
The dried flower arrangement without foliage may seem stiff and unnatural. Leaves add much to an arrangement and can easily be preserved by a process known as "glycerinizing." This technique makes the leaves and stems soft, pliable and long lasting so they may be used over and over.
Foliage color will gradually change as the glycerin is absorbed. It will take from one to three weeks for most branches to glycerinize.
Some leaves, especially thick and waxy ones, may not glycerinize well by this method. Individual leaves of plants such as ivy or southern magnolia may be glycerinized by totally submerging the leaves into the mixture. They should be placed in a single layer and weighted to keep them beneath the liquid. After they become soft and pliable (2 to 6 days) they should be removed. After removal, drain and wipe the leaves clean with a soft cloth.
In addition to glycerinizing, leaves may also be dried with the same techniques used for drying flowers. However, they become brittle and must be handled very carefully.
The following list includes some of the plants most easily glycerinized. Houseplants, trees, shrubs, florist's foliage and garden flowers are included.
G6540, reviewed September 2006