Selecting the Right Type of Bee for Your Operation
Apiary Location
Beekeeping in the Urban/Suburban Setting
How to Handle Bees

There are several different ways of getting started in the bee business: buying package bees; purchasing a nucleus colony (nuc); buying established colonies; collecting swarms; and taking bees out of trees and walls. Most beginners start with either a package or a nuc. Packages are the preferred way. In purchasing nuclei and colonies you might be buying other beekeeper's problems, such as disease. Collecting swarms and transferring bees is difficult and not recommended for the beginner. The best time to start with bees is in the spring or early summer.

Related Topic: BEEKEEPING AS AN AGRICULTURAL ALTERNATIVE

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Selecting the Right Type of Bee for Your Operation
Beginner beekeepers face the difficult decision of which strain or race of bee to order, and from whom, when they are obtaining packages and queens.

Honey bees in the United States are a heterogeneous blend of several races introduced from Europe, the Middle East, and Africa. Currently, there are three major races: Italians, Caucasians, and Carniolans. However, they are not the same as the original races they were named after. Many strains of the original races have developed through interbreeding and selection along with various geographic and climatic influences.

To determine which race or strain of bees would best suit your operation, first consider the advantages and disadvantages of each. Then try queens and packages from different queen breeders and suppliers to learn more about the behavior and productivity of each strain under your local conditions.

Italian bees are the most popular race in the United States. First introduced in 1859, they basically replaced the original black bee, or German bee, brought over by the colonists. The Italian bee is light yellowish or brown with alternating stripes of brown and black on the abdomen. Those with three abdominal bands are sometimes called leather-colored Italians; those with five bands are called goldens. They tend to start brood rearing early in the spring and continue until late fall, which results in a large population throughout the active season. Large populations of Italians can collect a considerable amount of nectar in a relatively short period, but they also require more honey for maintenance than do the dark races. Most strains of Italian bees are considered to be quiet and gentle on the combs but not as gentle as the other two races. Disadvantages include a poor sense of orientation, which results in drifting bees from one colony to another, and a strong inclination to robbing, which spreads disease. The Italians are considered good housekeepers. Quite a few strains are comparatively resistant to European Foulbrood (EFB). Their resistance to EFB is a major reason why they replaced black bees. The Italian bee's lighter color makes the queen bee considerably easier to find than those of the other two races. Italians produce brilliant white cappings, which are ideal for producing comb honey.

Caucasian bees are sometimes described as the gentlest of all honey bees. They are dark colored to black with grayish bands on the abdomen. They tend to construct burr comb and use large amounts of propolis to fasten down combs and reduce the size of the entrance. Some of the newer strains, however, use less propolis. Because they propolize excessively, they are not considered suitable for producing comb honey. Caucasians are inclined to drifting and robbing but not excessive swarming. colonies normally do not reach full strength before midsummer, and they conserve their honey stores somewhat better than do the Italians. They have the longest tongue of any race of honey bees, a potentially important factor in pollination and nectar collection from certain crops such as red clover. They also forage at somewhat lower temperatures and under less favorable climatic conditions than do Italian bees and are reported to show some resistance to EFB. Caucasians are available but not common.

Carniolans are dark bees similar to Caucasians in appearance, except they often have brown spots or bands on the abdomen. This race increases rapidly in the spring after the first pollen becomes available. As a result, the major disadvantage is excessive swarming. They overwinter well with a small population and are very economical in their food consumption even under unfavorable climatic conditions. They are not inclined to robbing, have a good sense of orientation, and are quiet on the combs. They are available but not common.

Hybrid bees are produced by crossing several lines or races of honey bees. Initially, planned crosses frequently result in a line of very prolific bees that exhibit what is called hybrid vigor. With controlled matings, this vigor can be maintained. Commercial hybrids (Midnite and Starline) are produced by crossing inbred lines that have been developed and maintained for specific characteristics such a gentleness, productivity, wintering, etc.

Midnites are produced from a four-way cross of Caucasian inbred lines. This extremely gentle hybrid originally was developed for beginning beekeepers and hobbyists but is used to some extent at the commercial level. Because of its Caucasian origin, it is a dark bee with a gray-black appearance. It seems to be best suited for an area where the honey flow is long in duration but not intense. It winters well and has a slower spring buildup than the Starline. Excessive propolization is the biggest disadvantage.

Starlines are based on a four-way cross of inbred lines derived from the Italian race. They are gentle but not as docile as the Midnites. Colonies build up rather quickly in the spring and seem to do best where the honey flow is intense and perfectly timed with the buildup.

The breeding stock used for Starline and Midnite queens is produced by instrumental insemination, whereas the final queens sold by the producers are open-mated. Therefore, there is always a chance of some mismating, since total isolation of the breeding stock is impossible. Both the Starline and Midnite hybrids have been selected for general combining ability, which allows for some mismating but still produces a quality hybrid queen.

If you use hybrids in your operation, be sure to requeen regularly. Allowing natural queen replacement usually leads to loss of hybrid vigor and aggressive bees that are difficult to handle.

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Apiary Location
Both beginners and established beekeepers should select each apiary site carefully. Otherwise, they may jeopardize the efficiency of their investment.

Throughout the foraging season there must be nectar and pollen sources within a short distance of the hives. Pollen is essential for brood rearing, and nectar (honey) is the bee's basic source of energy. Large concentrations of floral sources are needed to produce a honey crop.

Bees also need a source of fresh water so they can regulate the temperature of the hive, liquefy crystallized honey, and raise brood. If a water supply is not available within 1/4 mile of the hives, provide a tank or pan of water with a floating board or crushed rock for the bees to land on.

Bees are less irritable and easier to handle when located in the open where they can get plenty of sunshine. Shade from trees retards the flight of workers and hinders finding the queen and seeing eggs within the cells. A southern or easterly exposure gives colonies maximum sunshine throughout the day. The apiary is best situated near natural wind protection such as hills, buildings, or evergreens. (See Figure 16.) Other requirements are dry ground and good air drainage. Avoid windy exposed hilltops or sites near the bank of a river likely to overflow and drown the bees. The apiary should not be located in a woods or in a damp bottom land, since excess moisture retards the flight of the bees and encourages development of such bee diseases as nosema and EFB.

Figure 16. An ideal apiary location with a natural windbreak and good air drainage. (Photo by W.W. Clarke, Jr.)

The location's accessibility is important, since many trips are made to the apiary each year in all kinds of weather. Avoid carrying equipment and heavy supers of honey to and from the apiary. Hives should be secluded from traffic, constant noise, and disturbance from animals and children. To discourage vandalism, place your colonies near a dwelling or area frequently visited yet screened from view if possible.

Relative safety from repeated pesticide applications to colonies or their forage is also important. Acquaint yourself with the pesticides commonly used in the area. When practicable, place colonies away from fields that are treated routinely.

When selecting sites for outyards, make inquiries to determine how many other beekeepers are operating in the area. A district can easily become overstocked with bees, which results in a poor honey crop for everyone.

If possible, have your outyards near home. People tend to neglect out-apiaries that are located too far from headquarters. Soaring energy costs and efficient use of time should be included in each apiary site decision.

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Beekeeping in the Urban/Suburban Setting
Since legal problems with bees most often occur in the cities and suburbs, you should manage your bees so that they do not bother neighbors. There are several precautions you can take to decrease the chances of your colonies becoming a public nuisance.

It is imperative to maintain gentle colonies in highly populated areas. Colonies with bees that try to sting each time they are examined, or that hover repeatedly around the bee veil even after the colony is closed, are not ideal for the urban setting. Selecting hybrid strains that have been bred for gentleness and requeening on a regular schedule will certainly help. If a colony becomes too aggressive, requeening with a new queen will change colony temperament in a month or so.

Providing a source of water near the hives will stop a lot of unnecessary complaints. Otherwise, the bees may get their water from the neighbor's swimming pool, dripping water faucet, birdbath, children's wading pool, or hanging wash. Once they have become accustomed to a watering place, they will continue to use it throughout the season.

Most colonies have a basic flight pattern as they leave and return to the hive. People and animals passing through this flight path are likely to be stung. Bees also spot cars, clothing, and buildings in the vicinity of the hive by releasing their body waste in flight. Spotting from a single colony is generally not serious, but several colonies flying in one direction may make a car or house unsightly in a short time. If possible, do not allow hives to face children's play areas, neighbor's clothes lines, houses, etc. Planting a hedge or building a fence at least 6 feet high will force the bees to fly above head level and thus reduce the chance of stinging. Fences and hedges also keep colonies out of view, which helps reduce vandalism and concern by the neighbors.

When manipulating and examining hives, keep the neighbors foremost in mind. Weather and time of day influence the disposition of the colony. Colonies kept in the shade tend to be more aggressive. Work the bees on warm sunny days, when the field force will be actively foraging. Avoid early morning and evening manipulations if possible. Use smoke efficiently and work carefully and slowly to help prevent angering the bees. During a nectar dearth, keep robbing at a minimum. Robbing aggravates the bees and increases searching behavior. Keep examination time to a minimum and make sure honey supers and frames are covered. All spare equipment stored outside should be bee-tight. Having sufficient equipment to manage your colonies is a must. Proper spring management helps reduce swarming problems. Even though swarming bees are quite gentle and seldom inclined to sting, the presence of a swarm in the neighborhood tends to excite people. It would be to your advantage to keep your colonies intact by preventing swarming.

Top entrances should be avoided in congested areas during the summer season. Whenever a hive with a top entrance is opened and the supers moved, hundreds of bees will be flying around, confused because their entrance is gone.

Part of being an urban beekeeper is good public relations. Beekeepers who permit their bees to become nuisances force communities to institute restrictive ordinances that are detrimental to the beekeeping industry. Do not keep more colonies in the backyard than the area forage can support or more than you have time to care for adequately. Giving the neighbors an occasional jar of honey will also sweeten relations.

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How to Handle Bees
Beginners in beekeeping are naturally reluctant at first to spend much time examining their colonies and usually a little overly cautious about handling the bees and damaging the colony. With proper clothing and equipment as described previously, handling bees is neither difficult nor dangerous. After properly lighting the smoker and putting on your veil, approach the hive from the rear and work from either side. If several colonies or rows of colonies face the same direction, examine the front hive or row first so that you later work behind the disturbed colonies.

When beginning to work a colony, blow one or two puffs of smoke across the entrance and under the lid to discourage the guard bees. (See Figures 17 and 18.) Use a puff or two every time a piece of equipment is removed or replaced. This keeps the bees under control and out of the way so few bees are killed. Once the cover or a hive body is lifted up, remove it without letting it back down in place. In this way you crush fewer bees and alarm the colony less. Work the bees when they are flying, on clear warm days between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. During this period most of the old bees are in the field gathering nectar or pollen. Bees are easiest to handle when there is a nectar flow. Work bees slowly and with care; unnecessary excitement leads to confusion and stings.

Figure 17. Before opening a colony of bees, blow smoke into the hive entrance and all other cracks and openings.	Figure 18. Additional smoke is blown under the outer telescoping cover as the colony is opened.

After removing the outer telescoping cover, place it underside up, on the ground close beside you near the hive. In this position it serves as a place to put the upper hive bodies when you are examining the lower brood chamber of the hive. (See Figure 19) Bees adhering to the inner cover when it is removed are normally knocked off at the hive entrance. Set the inner cover out of the way.

Figure 19. The smoker is handy when it is kept between the knees. As you work the colony, the outer telescoping cover is used to support honey supers.

Bees seal the frames together with propolis at every point of contact. Use the straight end of the hive tool to pry them apart; start with the second frame in on the side you are working from. Pull the first frame slowly out of the hive, look briefly for the queen, and, if she is not on the frame, set it on end against the opposite side of the hive near the entrance. If the queen is on the frame, do not set the frame outside the hive where she may fall to the ground. After removing a single frame, the rest of the frames can be easily removed, examined, and replaced in order. Keeping combs in their original positions is desirable unless you feel a change in order will improve the condition of the colony. Hold the combs above the colony when examining them, with the comb surface vertical.

Unripened nectar may fall from combs held horizontally. To see eggs and young larvae, tilt the frame slightly so the sunlight will fall into the cells of the comb. To look at the opposite side of the comb, raise or lower one end until the top bar is vertical. Pivot the frame 180° and bring the top bar back to a horizontal position. Repeat the process before replacing the comb in the hive. When you finish examining the combs of a hive body, replace the first frame that was removed in its original position. When reassembling the hive, smoke down the bees and pause slightly just before the parts touch; most of the bees will move out of the way.

Some bee stings are inevitable, but with care most of them can be avoided. When stung, scrape the stinger away with your finger nail, hive tool, or other sharp object. Do not pull the stinger out. Pulling squeezes all the venom from the poison sac into the wound.